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around home, bikepacking, bikes, family, NZ, shoulder

The Christmas Letter 2023

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Time spent riding this year was always going to be down with shoulder surgery scheduled mid-year, less expected is the year drawing to a close with the least distance covered by bike in over ten years. The year started predominantly at home in Naseby around family. I kept pleasantly busy with casual work driving vans carting bikes, baggage and people around the Otago Central Rail Trail (hard to get sick of driving around Central Otago) and volunteering as much as possible on the local ambulance in an attempt to have all the practical skills signed off to complete the first responder qualification.

The remoteness of the region means we see helicopters responding far more than in urban centres.

I did manage to get out for a few small bikepacking adventures, none of which went quite to plan. After one of the best trips I’d done the previous year, I was keen to head back with Andy to the Lindis headwater area. Strange how we forgot that we swore never to return to this area with loaded bikes. Sweltering in summer weather, it was quickly apparent I was not in any sort of condition for such hills. We did manage to complete most of the loop planned and I was particularly pleased to make it along Grandview Ridge.

The every-other-year Great Southern Brevet, one of my favourite bikepacking events, was only two weeks later and I was in about a dozen different minds about whether I’d show up to ride what is now my backyard, especially with Andy’s much-awaited Nine Stations immediately after. I couldn’t face Grandview Ridge, in the more difficult other direction, again so soon – but the course was changed to take it out and instead include some private land – that was enough to entice me back.

While nice to see so many familiar faces again, it took me a good day and a half to get into it and by the third day things were going well enough – that is until I pulled up at the end of the day with very tight achilles tendons. A good rest overnight, I tried to ride away into more mountains – but quickly decided against that. A few days of rest was enough to allow a day’s ride to collect my car and make it to the start of the Nine Stations ride – but the achilles injuries plagued me for quite some time, and they’re still not a hundred.

Route-maker extraordinaire Andy had somehow got permission to ride through many private stations to put the loop together, it was a privilege to ride some new places with a good group.

Got to stay in this restored hut that we’d seen the previous year.

Dropping down to the Rangitata – TTW memories.

Far enough up the river to safely cross the Rangitata.

Unfortunately, a mechanical early on the third day meant I sat the fourth and final day out – but that held less interest for me, so I wasn’t too put out.

Mid-February I watched from afar in disbelief as Cyclone Gabrielle devastated Hawke’s Bay and so many of the places I’d come to know in the six years I spent living in Napier and biking a lot of the backroads. With electricity and comms compromised for a week, information was sparse but the damage over such a wide area was more than I could comprehend.

I’d have never thought the Esk could burst its banks to flood my former workplace with over a metre and a half of water and the accompanying debris and silt.

The end of summer saw me being support crew (at the last minute by myself) for a friend’s team in the ~week-long Godzone adventure race. It was a great week for me around the beauty of Fiordland. All the driving, planning, packing, unpacking, assembling transition zone, team social media updates, washing and drying vast amounts of clothes and gear was enough of an endurance sport for me – I wasn’t even out there doing the hard yards! Pleasing to be able to support others in their mad adventures.

Heading out onto Manapouri.

I did manage to do a little exploring of my own.

Transition zone set-up.

As my own plans to build a small house in Naseby developed, helping my friend Mike replace my parents’ roof one drizzly autumn week was both satisfying and good experience for future building work.

Old and new steel.

The rest of autumn was a flurry of getting firewood for the winter, more Rail Trail work, and completing the ambulance qualification, just, before shoulder surgery. Surgery went very well and I spent most of the six-weeks of sling wearing staying with and being cared for by Mum and Dad in Dunedin. I was surprised that there was far less pain/discomfort and swelling than the keyhole surgery eleven years before. I made the most of the mild weather by going on increasingly long walks exploring Dunedin and surrounding hills.

Out at Portobello for Mothers’ Day.

A week in Auckland near the end of the sling stint was the first time I’d been to the city for at least four years and I thoroughly enjoyed catching up with many dear, and long-neglected, friends – as well more walking and warmer weather. Sling off and it was back home to Naseby, staring at the prospect of a long, cold winter sitting by the fire reading books unable to do much else as my shoulder recovered.

A well-timed check-in call from a mate (a former colleague) detailed just how much work there was to recover from the flooding in the Pulp Mill and gave the idea that I might go up for a few months and help out. I thought three months would be good, but it was five I was needed for – so less than two weeks later I was back in Napier amongst too many people telling me it was like I never left. Things had certainly changed in two years and I still struggle to believe the amount of recovery work that has already been done and how much is left to get the place running again.

It was odd returning, as Napier isn’t home any more, I’m not living alone in my own house and everyone’s lives have understandably moved on. My shoulder recovery, with some physio, continued to pleasantly surprise me and I was able to get on a bike sooner than I expected. I’d not brought a bike with me, so it was an opportunity to give a gravel bike a try buying a secondhand one. I thought I might sell it if I didn’t like it, but I’ve decided it’s a glorified, but useful, road bike and I’ll keep it for some different exploring when I return home.

There used to be a bridge there.

Getting back to parkrun, a large part of my previous Napier life, was good to try and get some fitness back; I managed to cut the gap to my 5 km personal best in half before picking up a side strain which has halted further progress. As it happens, the work in the Pulp Mill is nowhere near complete (which rather hinders my role as Completions Manager – yeah, I’d never heard of such a thing either) so I was asked to stay through summer until pulp should be coming out of the mill again – something I’d really like to see.

We managed to agree on what another four months, and summer, away from home and family was worth – but equally I’m sticking around to see a place that was good to me and is the livelihood of many workmates and an important part of Hawke’s Bay on its feet again. Pleasingly, the work is engaging, keeps developing and very satisfying. The second half of this video gives a better idea of what’s been going on.

I’m down south in Dunedin for a week and Christmas with my parents, and an overdue venesection (haemochromatosis seems to be nicely under control now, blood letting only required every few months), before returning to Naseby for a week at home doing little – maybe some biking and ambulance cover. All the best for yours and the new year!

around home, bikepacking, bikes, event, family, friends, running

Christmas Letter 2021

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Another pandemic-dominated year almost done, which save for three weeks of lockdown at the end of winter, had – compared to many parts of the world – mercifully little impact on the small part I inhabit. It did at least serve as a regular reminder to make the most of opportunities, as one never really knows when they may disappear. On a personal note, I seemed to have taken an unexpected, sometimes trying, route to get to where I planned to be in some years time. That is, resigning from a good job, selling my house in Napier and moving south to Otago to be closer to family.

Entering the new year with my arm in a sling, yet again, more surgery on my shoulder seemed a possibility. I wasn’t sure I’d be able to ride the two bikepacking events of the summer. But the shoulder settled and I enjoyed going a bit slower on the excellent Great Southern Brevet as a test of my capability to tackle Tour Te Waipounamu two weeks later. As good as the GSB was, being flown to and from Tekapo by Guy in his Cessna rates as one of the biggest highlights of the year. The light plane travel and views it afforded of the country were endlessly fascinating.

A bit of aerial Tour Te Waipounamu scouting.

The relaxed pace of what was last-ditch effort of TTW preparation made for a very social ride – with much time spent with, both, other riders, and visiting friends and family en route. Most enjoyable and nowhere near as challenging as the 2019 edition, with its traverses of mountain ranges in gale force winds.

The late evening climb to the Garston Ski Hut bordered on majestical.

The following morning wasn’t too shabby either.

Knobby Range was one of the few parts of the course new to me, and with a lovely morning (before the cruel southerly change) to enjoy it – one of my favourite parts.

The two weeks before Tour Te Waipounamu were a blur of GSB recovery, last minute preparation, work, little sleep and much writing. I kept telling myself that being underdone physically in preparing for what I expected to be the toughest bikepacking event I’d attempted was a good idea – although I was sceptical. In its first year, fifty riders were selected to race from the top to bottom of the South Island – with much of the course going through private land in the high country. There would be much pushing and carrying of bikes through the middle section – not exactly my forte.

It went as well as I could have hoped – I saw so much new country and many tremendous sights, the weather was exceedingly kind, the course provided the challenge I expected and I was able to finish a couple of days faster than planned. Sure, I could have gone a bit faster – but would have involved more night-riding, which I’m seldom keen to sacrifice seeing things for. There’s a comprehensive film of the race, which naturally I think is worth the fee.

Photo from hikebikecake.com

After averaging 200 km/day for the first two, the third of moving all day only netted sixty-four. A bit of a shock with all the pushing and carrying, but we made it over the toughest part of the course – the mostly-trackless Dampier Range.

A glorious warm evening pushing solo through the expanses of Mesopotamia Station was the stand-out moment of the race for me. Perhaps helped by having studied this area from the air three weeks before.

Another sixty-odd kilometre day involved much more rocky pushing and carrying to the high point of the course.

Things didn’t let up from there, with two hot and dry days into the heart of Otago.

A beautiful start to the last, and interestingly, easiest day of riding.

Made it! Well pleased with that week and completing the inaugural event.

Starting with a dislocated shoulder, I was thrilled how the first few months played out – it took some time to come off those highs. This was useful as I was already starting to wonder how I was going to make it through another year or so of process safety engineering – having recently realised my house had increased in value so much over five years (bonkers, disturbingly and ultimately bad news for NZ), that I’d be where I wanted to be financially five years earlier than expected. Unusually for me, around this time a relationship suddenly flourished and showed potential. Alas, I was mistaken and it ended as inexplicably as it began, taking a fair bit of dealing with.

Into and through winter was tough as I quickly realised just how unchallenged and disengaged I’d become at work, most unexpected from both my normal working self and a role that had challenged me for over five years. Energy levels were low and I struggled to get motivated to get out and about exploring in my usual way out of work – let alone working well. Maybe it was the lack of sleep – which had started with trying to sleep with an arm in a sling again. Something was wrong, but I no idea what was cause and what was effect. Stumbling over this article, at work unsurprisingly, ticked so many boxes it wasn’t funny – who knew boreout is even a thing? How did I get there?! Most things has always been interesting to me on some level…

About the only thing that was going well through this time, counter-intuitively, was running. Still regularly turning up at the local parkrun (free timed 5 km run around a local park every Saturday morning), I had a staggering run of personal bests. I’d not come remotely close to my PB of just over nineteen minutes in eighteen months. Perhaps with a bit more conditioning from TTW and a small foray into trail running (finally), five PBs over seven parkruns both surprised and pleased me no end. Almost a minute off and down close to eighteen minutes (didn’t quite make it before lockdown… parkrun has still not restarted) was astonishing.

Having on a whim signed up for a very hilly, mid-winter Central Otago trail half-marathon was the motivation to spend a bit more time running in the local hills. One of my few minor regrets from six years in Hawke’s Bay is not having spent more time running and hiking in the Kawekas – much more to explore there when I make it back. It was good to get out there a bit for some training. The race went unexpectedly well, keeping a fair pace for the first eighteen kilometres – but fading in the last five when going downhill was slowed markedly to something of a hobble. Still, forty-five minutes faster than hoped and in some good company. A long weekend with the family and taking the balance bike I’d overhauled and resprayed bright green for my nephew were added bonuses of that trip.

Still not feeling myself, despite some excellent support, I finally went to the doctor with something non-shoulder related – can’t remember the last time, another thing to be grateful for – and a long list of rather vague complaints. Blood test results later and the first steps to an eventual haemochromatosis diagnosis were made (I’ll try not to go on, having mentioned it previously). Having not heard of it – either in my family, or indeed, at all – it was surprising, and also confronting. At least there was some reason many of my vague symptoms, there seems to be no organ damage so far and treatment is straightforward – even if it means getting used to regular insertion of needles larger than I’d prefer. The venesection took a frustratingly long time to get started, considering how simple it is, but once underway my iron levels have dropped nicely to be only just above what is normal – still some way to go to get them to the low side of normal, but some improvement in symptoms is apparent.

Unfortunately I didn’t have the inspiration, energy or motivation to run a Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour this year. Pleasingly Andrew managed to organise access through a lot of private farmland to realise his long-held desire to ride from Napier to Wellington following the coast. I was fortunate to ride on two of the trips which showed me a lot of the lower North Island shore that I’d have never seen otherwise.

Work eventually became untenable with the disengagement and iron-overload fatigue, so I resigned, served out a three-month notice period, sold my house (going to market the morning the country suddenly goes into lockdown not recommended) and prepared to move south to spend the summer with family – plenty of big changes for all approaching, so it made sense to be around while also having a bit of a break. The last two months in Hawke’s Bay were spent with various trips to say goodbye to people in the central North Island, plenty of small adventures (I was pleased to finally paddle down the Whanganui River, that quintessential NZ trip) – including some local favourites, selling or packing belongings, ordering a new mountain bike and unfortunately retiring the old one early, one bikepacking event, much blood-letting (actual) and final goodbyes.

Finally skiing in the North Island – first day of not-working.

Some favourite local gravel roads and hills.

Absolute favourite Hawke’s Bay viewpoint with a great crew to share it with.

Down the Whanganui.

The Renegades Muster was a fabulous inaugural bikepacking event in the Whanganui and Taranaki regions.

After two weeks driving south with plenty of visits to extended family and close friends, and small running/biking/hiking outings, I’m pleased to be down south with my family for Christmas and into the New Year. This year certainly has been one of much change for me, unfortunately a bit light on the bike with the bike-commute ending – only 9000 km, but I’ve enjoyed the extra running I’ve done – 500 km my biggest year yet, just. As for next year, who knows? Surely it can’t have as many big changes as this year; but just what it will hold is both exciting and daunting in the opportunities that may present and be taken. Hopefully the energy for more adventures and new sights…

Best wishes to all, thanks to all that have been along for the ride (literal and figurative) and offered support along the way.  Well done if you’ve managed to read so much of my writing – thank you.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, family, friends, NZ

Farewell Hawke’s Bay

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Asked last night what the highlight of over six years in Hawke’s Bay was, I struggled at first to answer. Far too big a question; then I struggled to stop listing just some of the things that have made my time in this region so wonderful. Naturally, I’ll try to write it instead, although I fear a long list and huge photo-dump…

Moving to Napier for work and an area completely new to me, I was fortunate to have stable employment at a large local employer in a role that developed and challenged me for five or so years, working with many who soon became firm friends. The mountain-bike park next door in company forest was a bonus and there was never a shortage of people to go for an after-work ride with, or riding adventures further afield.

Ah, the Pulpmill.

The forty-odd minute bike-commute to work was also easily achievable (except in the strongest of winds!) and as one former-colleague pointed out, the coastal section was one that people would come from afar to ride – often spectacular. The highway section was to be tolerated and survived – which I am only too pleased to have done, I only remember two very scary moments. Not bad in 25,000 km of riding – which certainly helped me keep a good base fitness and my vehicle expenses low.

Winter rides to work were often compensated for with the sunrise.

Having such a job enabled me to quickly buy a small house close to the city centre – very fortunate timing as prices were just beginning their ridiculous rise. A great little house, it quickly became home and I particularly appreciated being within easy walking distance of many attractions. Exploring the surrounding area by foot and bike was a favourite activity, always something new and interesting to find. Having my own home to welcome friends, family, cycle-touring and Airbnb guests was fantastic, as was having my own space to come home to. Various maintenance and improvement tasks were novel for quite a while, but the having time to explore the region became the priority in later years. The city’s annual Art Deco festival was always fun and a good reason to have visitors – a days-long dress-up party with plenty of old cars, buildings and so on to help celebrate.

I’ll miss this little home (still too big for me), but particularly that couch.

My favourite way to walk to town – to the end of the street, and down one of the many staircases/ramps to be discovered on the Hill.

Still amusing that work had this, but while it was available – I was happy to take it out for a run on a fitting occasion.

Eventually convinced that I should give running a go to use some different non-cycling muscles, the local parkrun proved a suitable gateway. That was the bulk of my running and part of a favourite Saturday morning routine of biking to, running, biking home via the Saturday morning Farmers’ Market, and then struggling up the hill with a loaded bike. I surprised myself in actually being able to run five kilometres, and was bewildered as I gradually got somewhat fast. A social and supportive environment for a wide variety, it was fun to catch-up with friends there. Completing the Hawke’s Bay Marathon was about as serious as my running ever got (all that training time could have been far better spent biking!), once was enough; too late, I made time to do a little trail running – far more fun!

Anderson parkrun is a flat, easy course!

Which brings me to the biking. Clearly I’ve loved the riding opportunities all over Hawke’s Bay. Dozens of rides up Te Mata Peak and still the view grabs me, always changing – sometimes subtly, sometimes more. The large network of flat cycle trails around and between the urban areas were my first gateway to exploring the area and are such an asset to the area. But it wasn’t long before I was looking beyond the Heretaunga Plains to the hills that were so enticing. The more I explored, I found there was the possibility riding from the south to north of the province with few busy roads to be negotiated. Initially it was just a challenge just for me, but I quickly realised there was a chance a couple of others might like to come along for the ride.

Looking back to Napier from the Peak.

Mt Erin from the Peak.

Somehow I ended up on Triple Peaks promotional shoot. I did eventually get to race the iconic local event.

So the Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour and Hawke’s Bay Bikepacking were soon fledgling, they always stayed rather low-key. That led to a lot of time and fun traipsing all over the region with my bike trying to find the best bits to share with others. It didn’t always work out, there are plenty of great bits that are difficult to connect – but I sure enjoyed working on it. But amongst the two HBATs and shorter, more casual overnighters I hope I’ve been able to show off some great bits off the beaten track – and hills, plenty of hills. On top of the HBBP page as a resource, I was pleased to get three routes in and help with the excellent Bikepacking Aotearoa guidebook – which far more people will ever use for a bikepacking resource than this rambling site.

Some favourites:

Waipunga Road was my most ridden gravel road – close to work and with an ever-changing gravel surface, a forty kilometre ride would provide over a thousand metres of climbing, views all over the place (especially with a lot of pine-felling in the last year or two), a chance to visit friends, little traffic and the opportunity to go further afield.

The very hilly ride out to the Mangatutu Hot Springs soon became an annual overnighter, the hot soak at the end ample compensation for the effort – the last ten kilometres being especially tiring.

Camping at Waipatiki Beach was always a good option to get away close to home for a casual overnighter – only two or three hours riding after work. Lovely beach too.

HBAT19, the first one, I was thrilled with – people seemed to have a great time, make new friends and enjoy the route. (I got a bit ambitious with HBAT20 in trying to please others and bringing it back to finish in Napier – no one finished! Still, people got out and saw new places on bikes with others; not a complete waste of time.)

The HBOP loop was excellent, if a big weekend – hills of northern Hawke’s Bay, past Waikaremoana, the immense Whirinaki Forest and then more hills back to Tutira. Would have loved to do that again, just somehow cutting out the Napier-Taupo highway section.

Mahia Peninsula is very special, some great riding and sights; unfortunately I didn’t make it up there more than four or five times.

The beaches of Central Hawke’s Bay, and getting there, were a nice point of difference on HBAT and the scouting out there was fun.

Out the back of Tutira, dropping down to the Mohaka, crossing the Te Hoe and then pushing up through farmland before grovelling up the hill out of Willowflat was a treat, albeit tough, of a day ride.

Just last weekend up north of Wairoa was fantastic too – still finding more places I need to ride.

My favourite of all Hawke’s Bay views as they extend all around the bay and one is so high while so close to the ocean, and the ride is pretty good too – Ridgemount and Tiwhanui.

Through all above, so many wonderful friends. But not just for the highlights – the lowlights too, which don’t tend to make it here. Not really having visited before moving here, I knew two people in the area. Some workmates were soon added to the lists of riding buddies and close friends (some both); gradually my small social circles expanded with parkrun, Italian club/lessons, occasional quizzes and other things to friends that I’m going to miss a whole lot.

But that just gives more reason to return soon, amongst whatever else life brings. Still plenty of places to see more of – particularly the Kaweka and Whirinaki Forest Parks (with more time, I should be able to fit more running on top of excessive amounts of biking!).

Thanks Hawke’s Bay, it’s been a great six years; alas, it’s time to move on and spend more time with family further south. Further adventures await.

bikepacking, bikes, event, family, friends, GPS, NZ

GSB21-3: Lindis River to Queenstown

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With quails nesting in the tree above, I had a far better sleep – but still with plenty of stargazing interspersed, bliss – and was last to rise again. At least this time, Guy and Eileen were still packing up their tents. Having less gear to wrangle into bags than the tented, we left our little riverside spot together for the short stretch to Tarras.

As the sun rose, it was pleasant riding on some flat gravel.

A good start to the day as we caught a few others. Only the stretch of Highway 8A I’d ridden a few times before, and always into the wind. It was no different today, in fact it was worse as the norwester had strengthened and continued to do so. The thirty-odd flat kilometres north to Hawea was the worst wind of the week and took us two hours, during which there were plenty of pauses for snacks, booking the first boat leaving Queenstown the next day, and a cue for my bottom bracket to develop rather ominous noises.

Finally, Lake Hawea was there in front of us – we just had to pedal downhill to reach it.

White caps galore, what a surprise.

Definitely time for a cafe stop in Hawea and a break from the wind. Now with the wind behind us, Eileen and I made good time to Albertown before rounding into the wind for the Outlet track. Wanaka for lunch, I split to a bike shop (no help, but thought bottom bracket would make it through – if I could bear the noise) and then went about a few hours off the bike to catch up with family and friends. Wonderful to see David and Mary and to share recent news.

A huge lunch was most welcome too, even if I’d only just had brunch.

Trying to organise to catch up with Cat, why not nap in the sun out of the hot wind? Photo: Dave King

Unable to quite arrange to meet, I started heading out of town around two. I soon became convinced that there was no way my bottom bracket was going to survive, and with remote sections to come – this was the best opportunity to get it sorted. A different bike shop was far more helpful (and concurred that it was terminal), had the part and did the work in less than two hours from my first phone call. Much respect to Black Peak Cycles. By that time, schedules aligned and twas lovely to catch up with Cat and somewhat meet a newborn.

Eventually I had to leave town, with eighty-odd kilometres and the Crown Range to rattle off and five hours of daylight available. It worked brilliantly, with the wind behind me (mostly) it was the easiest ride up to Cardrona and over the Crown that I’ve had. Pleasant temperatures (absolutely froze one early-March morning on TA16, and that day on the last GSB was a bit of an epic) and little traffic was ace. No wind at the top and the blast down to Arrowtown was exhilarating to say the least. The tedious loop of Arrowtown made no sense and was hard to figure on the coarse GPS track (those low resolution files about my only gripe all week).

Summit getting closer as the road finally kicks a little.

Thirty or so kilometres of familiar and mostly-benign cycle trail into town got done, legs holding up for the occasional short pinch climbs. Wonderful evening and time of day to be riding into town – warm, quiet. I needed lights for the last ten minutes of the pathway into town, the only time all week. Queenstown far quieter than once, as expected, I was happy to find a pizza joint open before spinning up the hill to the motel Guy had booked. Tales of the day shared, pizza half gone (some left for inevitable mid-night snack), body and clothes clean again…another cracking day. Some challenges overcome (that wind, and working through sudden bottom bracket peril), plenty of food, good riding company, taking a few hours rest out of the heat and wind, seeing loved ones and topping it off with a gorgeous solo evening ride.