Category Archives: hiking

Mt Ida hike

Having been distracted by the summit of the Hawkdun Range a few days before, I had to wait for clear skies and some energy to return before attempting to get up Mt Ida. This did mean another two-hour bike push up onto the Hawkduns; being the third time in a month, it’s getting to be old hat now and just part of getting to enjoy this area. Of course, I could have just hiked up without a bike – but I would have then resented every moment of the unnecessarily slow descent!

Do quite like it up here.

Over the Maniototo with the Rock & Pillars in the distance. I’d soon zig and zag along that ridge at left to get onto the Ida Range.

I was surprised to see a truck parked at the top, and more so to see someone around. Turned out there were lizard researchers camping up here for a few days counting such things. Nice spot for it. Stashing the bike, I lunched before setting off on foot to connect the ridges to Mt Ida. Thankfully the contour lines on the map along the path I would follow were relatively benign.

Of course, that was just the map and, as expected there was plenty of tussock and loose rock to deal with. There were still hills to deal with so, but the summit wasn’t much higher than where I left the bike – so I just had to regain the mellow altitude loss.

Doesn’t look too far away, or that lumpy.

Hills Creek heading to the left of Raggedy Range to join with Ida Burn near Oturehua.

Maybe sidling around here wasn’t such a fantastic idea, time to veer for the ridge.

It’s not far away, just have to get around there, by heading right. (Summit back left.)

A breeze kept me from overheating as I picked my way through the tussocks and over the rocks, giving my ankles a good workout on many hidden lumps and slip-sliding rocks.

Northeast over the Oteake lumps and gullies to St Marys Range.

Out on the Ida Range now, there was one last dip and then the steepest climb of the walk to go. Views opened up south.

Little Mt Ida, and its transmitter, looking, well, little. Ida Burn forming and then tracking away from the Maniototo plain.

Intrigues me when water doesn’t take the obvious, short path – here Ida Burn avoids filling the Taieri and heads right of Rough Ridge to Oturehua and ends up in the Clutha at Alexandra.

Naseby is easy to quickly zoom in on a map as the forest is clearly an anomaly around here.

Summit time, marked only by a small cairn and slightly better views. Not quite two hours on foot with a few snack and view pauses, a good little walk to add to my understanding of the area’s topography. With more time to organise logistics, a traverse of the Ida Range appeals; maybe by foot first to see if it’s worth dragging a bike along!

Boundary Creek forms here, we crossed the lower end of it a few weeks before as it becomes the Otematata River.

Time to turn and head for the bike, pretty easy to see much of the route back to the spot at the left of this picture:

A more considered route back was a good twenty minutes quicker, but there were also fewer photo stops on ground I’d already covered. Grabbing the bike and pushing back to the double-track, I was surprised to see two bikepackers at the top of the descent. I was sure all the Tour Te Waipounamu riders had gone through. I was correct, these two had come from Tailings Hut and were on a bit of Central Otago and Southern Lake tour – much of it sounded familiar.

Nice to chat before ripping down the loose track to the car. Thankfully I’d learnt my lesson of Friday and borrowed sister’s full-suspension bike, far faster and more comfortable on such a rugged track. Am looking forward to bigger wheels, fatter tyres, more travel and slacker geometry…soon (c’mon postal service!).

Silver Peaks intro – Jubilee Hut Loop S24O

The painting, mowing, tidying and general prep for, and then the, first open home done; I had to get away for a night. With a favourable forecast, what better opportunity to pop into the Silver Peaks Park for the first time. Only half an hour’s drive from both current-home and Dunedin this is a great area for small hiking or running trips. Mid-afternoon before I could depart, I thought I’d easily make it into Jubilee Hut before dark – online booking indicated I’d probably have it all to myself.

Leaving the car, the track slowly ascending to Green Hill was easy walking sheltered from the cool sea breeze by manuka. Apparently it would take me four hours for the nine kilometres to the hut, I was not convinced that would be so carrying only a light overnight pack.

Occasional glimpses of surrounding forest – both native and exotic.

Light clouds continued to blow through, keeping the afternoon temperatures quite bearable.

Just as I was thinking that the track looked quite rideable, it did get steeper – and stepped in places. I enjoyed picking out the trail ahead as it climbed to Silver Peak, and identifying various landmarks in the distance that I had a fair idea of what they might be.

Unsure what it was I was expecting but it wasn’t so many outcrops.

At the summit in little over an hour, I enjoyed having plenty of time and daylight to appreciate the views. It was odd to be easily able to see Mosgiel, a suburb of Dunedin, but the rest of the views were more expected.

North over the Bendoran Station – there’s good gravel riding in the hills just beyond that; Rock and Pillar Range coming in from the left background.

I could just spot the private Christmas Creek Hut, but of more relevance to my walk was the track to the Devil’s Staircase which would drop me four hundred metres in less than a couple of kilometres – that might slow progress a bit.

Looking back along the trail towards Pulpit Rock.

Starting down the staircase; Jubilee Hut just visible in a clearing in the trees above the true left of creek.

The descent wasn’t nearly as tough as I was told – but due mostly to it being completely dry, I suspect.

Down a the valley floor for the last section alongside and crossing the creek.

A beautiful stretch of beech forest delighted for the ten minutes I was down by the creek, before the climb up to the hut.

Looking back to the ridge and Devil’s Staircase – not too bad at all.

Well, that only took two hours of walking to find I did indeed have the hut to myself. Far more daylight and time to enjoy the peaceful surroundings than I imagined.

The large flax bushes would later provide good viewing of various small birds feeding on the flowers at twilight.

With the water tank empty at the hut, popping down the hill to the creek and carefully balancing not-for-purpose containers on the return was not a hardship when it is as tranquil as this.

Slow to rise after one of the longest and deepest sleeps I’ve ever had in a hut, there was no rush to close the loop. Eventually I was down to and over the creek, climbing up the other side past the previous hut site. Morning dew wetting my legs made me conscious that this section of track was far more overgrown than that which I’d seen so far. Over halfway up the steep climb, the track widened to old double track and became a little faster.

Those tracks look rideable…

Sidling off the ridge to meet a small creek, trail finding was a bit more difficult as the gorse closed in. A brief diversion took me up to ABC Cave. Turned out I could have easily made it here the night before, which would have been fun – but I had a very nice night as it was, so no regrets there.

Could probably get four on that sleeping platform.

Leaving the creek as it was only just forming here, and two more nice looking patches of beech, I regained the ridge – now on the Yellow Ridge Route.

Recognising the peaks close to current-home.

Down to Waikouaiti, on that small bay.

I detoured again to check out The Gap and the view from the trig. The double track here quite overgrown by gorse, and even some spainard, legs were mightily scratched as I barely negotiated what was left of the trail.

Back along the track to The Gap.

Thankfully the views were worth a nice break to soak them in on a mild, clear and still morning.

Down to Blueskin Bay area.

I had hoped to go back along Rocky Ridge to Pulpit Rock – this route reported to have the best views in the park – but the track was overgrown enough that I couldn’t find it, and my legs were itchy enough. So back along the Yellow Ridge it was.

Ah yes, the naming of The Gap becomes even more obvious down here.

Dropping a little and then along the ridge I was soon at the small Philip J. Cox Memorial Hut – might be worth a stay sometime. The route traditionally drops down and crosses the Waikouaiti South before climbing up to a forestry road – for a six kilometre gravel road walk back to the parking lot. Ugh. Thankfully, an alternative has recently been opened.

Start of the River Track.

Soon in quite different surroundings, I enjoyed the drop to river (further upstream than the old route).

Marking of the track is still in its infancy, there was only one part where I really had to stop and work out just where the track went.

Not having to cross the river, it was nice to cross each tributary – plenty of opportunities to drink and wet my cap as the early afternoon warmed.

At the bottom of the valley, the trail was much more benched and easier to follow than coming down off the ridge.

I came across two volunteers, the only people I saw out there that day, cutting in more switchbacks to bypass a steeper section. I appreciated chatting for a while and hear of all the work they’d been helping with in here expanding the trail network. So close to Dunedin, I could see from this brief excursion what a great park it is in such proximity to the city.

Having passed them, I was on trail that had had a lot more recent attention. Some of the trail building solutions and resourcefulness were equally impressive and ingeneous.

My last little side-trip – up to Possum Hut. Unlikely to ever sleep here.

Interesting walls though.

One last hundred metres climb up the new Gold Miners Direct track and I was back at my very dusty car. What an excellent morning to complete a fun little overnight. With all my little diversions, it was four hours of walking for eighteen kilometres – somehow well over a thousand metres of climbing in there, didn’t feel like it. The whole loop would be a good day walk or run (provided good weather is picked, I can see it’d be nasty up here in adverse conditions) – but I wanted a nice little overnighter and that’s what I got. Brilliant wee outing and I’m looking forward to further exploring when I’m in the area with time to spare.

Te Puia and Makino

Five years of hot springs bikepacking trips, and the one a fortnight ago was finally enough to motivate me to get into the Kaweka Forest Park properly – rather than just biking to the edge and sitting in a hot pool.

Instead I’d drive after lunch Saturday to the road end and make the short walk into Te Puia Lodge – the only serviced hut in the park and a good option for a quick, lightweight overnighter. Despite almost being hit by them, I was pleased to see the three full vans of a local high school were driving out; the hut may have been rather loud that night had they been going in.

Warmer than the forecast suggested, it was a lovely walk in. Having only really crossed it, by bike on each of the six bridges I know of, I was well pleased to spend much time walking beside the Mohaka River. Mostly dry, the track was easily walkable in the running shoes I’d opted for; often it climbed away from the river over or around a bluff – which helped with varying the walking and giving some views. I enjoyed each aspect of the scene unfolding, all new to me.

Fair flow after recent rain.

A hundred minutes in, the first signs of Te Puia appeared and then there on a clearing beside the river and opposite a waterfall, there it was. Chatting to three recent forestry grads (only slightly relevant as one had just started at my work – predictably in Forests), I claimed a bunk and ditched most of the little gear I’d carried in.

I thought there was enough daylight left to run/walk/scramble up and back down what looked a steep hill to another hut for a look-see. Surely it wasn’t two hours of walking to go two-ish kilometres and climb five hundred metres… Soon reaching at a jog, but not crossing, the bridge over the Makino the trail to Makino Hut suddenly got steep. Any semblance of running ceased and I was picking a path up, up and up trying to keep my footing. After the first hundred metres of gain, the trail got steeper again for the next two hundred.

The steepest part, thankfully not too wet, or dry, to reduce traction.

Strangely, the canopy got taller the higher I got. Topping out at around a thousand metres, the forest was most impressive for the last little undulating bit to the hut – unloaded it only took an hour to reach. Cripes, one could hardly miss it – an old NZ Forest Service hut from the sixties, its bright orange paint was still resplendent in the late afternoon sun. I soon found out why as three guys appeared and explained that they’d been there for three days waterblasting, prepping and painting the hut and outbuildings. I wasn’t expecting to find some many people up here, so it was nice to chat and hear about their voluntary work. They also pointed me down a small track to a viewpoint.

The Mohaka (Te Puia is just to the right of that little bit of whitewater) and the ranges north beyond.

Losing the sun, it was time to set off down to dinner. It certainly was cooler descending, and my poor quads got a hammering – which, as usual, they’ve taken two days to forcefully remind me of. Self-preservation slowed me some, but I was still down within two hours of leaving not having slipped or tripped – skin intact.

Back at the hut, there was time to prepare and enjoy dinner before heading upriver for the Mangatainoka hot springs with the large family group also staying. Yes, more hot springs. Somehow the chat turned from hiking to bikepacking on the forty minute walk – I may have had something to do with that.

Crossing the bridge over the Makino this time; the hut is up on that ridge somewhere clad in trees.

There’s a sweet campsite too at the track end, with a nice little sandy beach on the river edge. Might be a good option for next time… With a few buckets of cold water from the river, the tub was good for a long soak as dark gathered and we watched the river disappear.

Surprise, the hot springs have been flashed up.

Back by torchlight for tea, cards, wine and chocolate. Tough evening. With a dozen staying and the fire dying out during the night (unsure why it was lit, was almost unbearably warm through the evening), my lightest sleeping bag was enough for a good night’s sleep without. Breakfast down the hatch, it didn’t take long to pack my minimal gear up and bid goodbye to my hut buddies. It tried to rain on the way back, but never really got going enough to drag a jacket out.

Pleased to see the bush start to turn white as the manuka blossoms, reminding me of the bright hillsides of my first visit to the end of Makahu Road.

Soon back at the car and in the same time again I was back in town, a very successful twenty-four hours away complete. The guys at Makino Hut told me there are twenty-six huts and bivies in the park, that sounds an interesting little project over the coming seasons.

Whirinaki weekend

For the third time in a year, a most excellent stay at the Rec. Camp in Whirinaki Forest Park. This time, a more relaxed visit introducing friends to the superb example of native North Island podocarp forest – teeming with birdlife too. Bike trips have brought me here before, but this time I packed not only bike shoes (and a bike), but walking shoes, hiking boots and running shoes. Pleasingly, all were used.

Home for the weekend.

Unexpectedly cold when we arrived Friday night, fireplaces in the cabins sure helped on a brilliantly clear and starry night. It clouded overnight, so more mild waking Saturday; after an early breakfast I wandered down to check out the Whirinaki River just below camp. I was thrilled to hear a vocal pair of whio, and more so to see them. Also known as blue duck, these are a threatened species (far rarer than kiwi, for instance) that live in fast flowing rivers and streams.


How they manage to find and feed on small invertebrates in such quick water still amazes me.

The short loop on the Whirinaki mountain bike track was under the canopy of towering giants, and the downhill on a rough and ready, rutted track was the most fun I’ve had on a mountain bike in a long time. It was a nice change to let go and know that the bike would soak up all but the biggest hits – rather different to a loaded, fully-rigid bikepacking rig!

The rest of the weekend was spent on foot, walking to waterfalls, the ephemeral Arohaki Lagoon and running back, gazing in wonder up at the mind-blowingly numerous giants of the forest, listening to the birdlife and most of all learning more about it all. So good to take people knowledgeable about such things along – the enthusiasm was infectious, hopefully some of the knowledge was too.

Wheki-ponga may have been the word of the weekend.

Kahikatea line the lagoon on a misty Sunday morning.

Some marshmallows may have been harmed in the making of s’mores.