Category Archives: event

Christmas Letter 2021

Another pandemic-dominated year almost done, which save for three weeks of lockdown at the end of winter, had – compared to many parts of the world – mercifully little impact on the small part I inhabit. It did at least serve as a regular reminder to make the most of opportunities, as one never really knows when they may disappear. On a personal note, I seemed to have taken an unexpected, sometimes trying, route to get to where I planned to be in some years time. That is, resigning from a good job, selling my house in Napier and moving south to Otago to be closer to family.

Entering the new year with my arm in a sling, yet again, more surgery on my shoulder seemed a possibility. I wasn’t sure I’d be able to ride the two bikepacking events of the summer. But the shoulder settled and I enjoyed going a bit slower on the excellent Great Southern Brevet as a test of my capability to tackle Tour Te Waipounamu two weeks later. As good as the GSB was, being flown to and from Tekapo by Guy in his Cessna rates as one of the biggest highlights of the year. The light plane travel and views it afforded of the country were endlessly fascinating.

A bit of aerial Tour Te Waipounamu scouting.

The relaxed pace of what was last-ditch effort of TTW preparation made for a very social ride – with much time spent with, both, other riders, and visiting friends and family en route. Most enjoyable and nowhere near as challenging as the 2019 edition, with its traverses of mountain ranges in gale force winds.

The late evening climb to the Garston Ski Hut bordered on majestical.

The following morning wasn’t too shabby either.

Knobby Range was one of the few parts of the course new to me, and with a lovely morning (before the cruel southerly change) to enjoy it – one of my favourite parts.

The two weeks before Tour Te Waipounamu were a blur of GSB recovery, last minute preparation, work, little sleep and much writing. I kept telling myself that being underdone physically in preparing for what I expected to be the toughest bikepacking event I’d attempted was a good idea – although I was sceptical. In its first year, fifty riders were selected to race from the top to bottom of the South Island – with much of the course going through private land in the high country. There would be much pushing and carrying of bikes through the middle section – not exactly my forte.

It went as well as I could have hoped – I saw so much new country and many tremendous sights, the weather was exceedingly kind, the course provided the challenge I expected and I was able to finish a couple of days faster than planned. Sure, I could have gone a bit faster – but would have involved more night-riding, which I’m seldom keen to sacrifice seeing things for. There’s a comprehensive film of the race, which naturally I think is worth the fee.

Photo from hikebikecake.com

After averaging 200 km/day for the first two, the third of moving all day only netted sixty-four. A bit of a shock with all the pushing and carrying, but we made it over the toughest part of the course – the mostly-trackless Dampier Range.

A glorious warm evening pushing solo through the expanses of Mesopotamia Station was the stand-out moment of the race for me. Perhaps helped by having studied this area from the air three weeks before.

Another sixty-odd kilometre day involved much more rocky pushing and carrying to the high point of the course.

Things didn’t let up from there, with two hot and dry days into the heart of Otago.

A beautiful start to the last, and interestingly, easiest day of riding.

Made it! Well pleased with that week and completing the inaugural event.

Starting with a dislocated shoulder, I was thrilled how the first few months played out – it took some time to come off those highs. This was useful as I was already starting to wonder how I was going to make it through another year or so of process safety engineering – having recently realised my house had increased in value so much over five years (bonkers, disturbingly and ultimately bad news for NZ), that I’d be where I wanted to be financially five years earlier than expected. Unusually for me, around this time a relationship suddenly flourished and showed potential. Alas, I was mistaken and it ended as inexplicably as it began, taking a fair bit of dealing with.

Into and through winter was tough as I quickly realised just how unchallenged and disengaged I’d become at work, most unexpected from both my normal working self and a role that had challenged me for over five years. Energy levels were low and I struggled to get motivated to get out and about exploring in my usual way out of work – let alone working well. Maybe it was the lack of sleep – which had started with trying to sleep with an arm in a sling again. Something was wrong, but I no idea what was cause and what was effect. Stumbling over this article, at work unsurprisingly, ticked so many boxes it wasn’t funny – who knew boreout is even a thing? How did I get there?! Most things has always been interesting to me on some level…

About the only thing that was going well through this time, counter-intuitively, was running. Still regularly turning up at the local parkrun (free timed 5 km run around a local park every Saturday morning), I had a staggering run of personal bests. I’d not come remotely close to my PB of just over nineteen minutes in eighteen months. Perhaps with a bit more conditioning from TTW and a small foray into trail running (finally), five PBs over seven parkruns both surprised and pleased me no end. Almost a minute off and down close to eighteen minutes (didn’t quite make it before lockdown… parkrun has still not restarted) was astonishing.

Having on a whim signed up for a very hilly, mid-winter Central Otago trail half-marathon was the motivation to spend a bit more time running in the local hills. One of my few minor regrets from six years in Hawke’s Bay is not having spent more time running and hiking in the Kawekas – much more to explore there when I make it back. It was good to get out there a bit for some training. The race went unexpectedly well, keeping a fair pace for the first eighteen kilometres – but fading in the last five when going downhill was slowed markedly to something of a hobble. Still, forty-five minutes faster than hoped and in some good company. A long weekend with the family and taking the balance bike I’d overhauled and resprayed bright green for my nephew were added bonuses of that trip.

Still not feeling myself, despite some excellent support, I finally went to the doctor with something non-shoulder related – can’t remember the last time, another thing to be grateful for – and a long list of rather vague complaints. Blood test results later and the first steps to an eventual haemochromatosis diagnosis were made (I’ll try not to go on, having mentioned it previously). Having not heard of it – either in my family, or indeed, at all – it was surprising, and also confronting. At least there was some reason many of my vague symptoms, there seems to be no organ damage so far and treatment is straightforward – even if it means getting used to regular insertion of needles larger than I’d prefer. The venesection took a frustratingly long time to get started, considering how simple it is, but once underway my iron levels have dropped nicely to be only just above what is normal – still some way to go to get them to the low side of normal, but some improvement in symptoms is apparent.

Unfortunately I didn’t have the inspiration, energy or motivation to run a Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour this year. Pleasingly Andrew managed to organise access through a lot of private farmland to realise his long-held desire to ride from Napier to Wellington following the coast. I was fortunate to ride on two of the trips which showed me a lot of the lower North Island shore that I’d have never seen otherwise.

Work eventually became untenable with the disengagement and iron-overload fatigue, so I resigned, served out a three-month notice period, sold my house (going to market the morning the country suddenly goes into lockdown not recommended) and prepared to move south to spend the summer with family – plenty of big changes for all approaching, so it made sense to be around while also having a bit of a break. The last two months in Hawke’s Bay were spent with various trips to say goodbye to people in the central North Island, plenty of small adventures (I was pleased to finally paddle down the Whanganui River, that quintessential NZ trip) – including some local favourites, selling or packing belongings, ordering a new mountain bike and unfortunately retiring the old one early, one bikepacking event, much blood-letting (actual) and final goodbyes.

Finally skiing in the North Island – first day of not-working.

Some favourite local gravel roads and hills.

Absolute favourite Hawke’s Bay viewpoint with a great crew to share it with.

Down the Whanganui.

The Renegades Muster was a fabulous inaugural bikepacking event in the Whanganui and Taranaki regions.

After two weeks driving south with plenty of visits to extended family and close friends, and small running/biking/hiking outings, I’m pleased to be down south with my family for Christmas and into the New Year. This year certainly has been one of much change for me, unfortunately a bit light on the bike with the bike-commute ending – only 9000 km, but I’ve enjoyed the extra running I’ve done – 500 km my biggest year yet, just. As for next year, who knows? Surely it can’t have as many big changes as this year; but just what it will hold is both exciting and daunting in the opportunities that may present and be taken. Hopefully the energy for more adventures and new sights…

Best wishes to all, thanks to all that have been along for the ride (literal and figurative) and offered support along the way.  Well done if you’ve managed to read so much of my writing – thank you.

Renegades Muster 2021 – Day 5 – Patea to Whanganui

Leaving the barn, we were soon in and out of Patea. At that time of the morning, little was open but we had been carrying sufficient supplies. Earlier in the trip I’d made sure I ate the food I was carrying between towns, rather than eating it as I bought more in towns. That worked well, but for this last 150 kilometres there were to be few shops – so it was just as well we had stashed a fair bit.

Pleasant morning riding through southern Taranaki dairy farms was interspersed with only short sections on the highway. I can’t say the scenery does too much for me around here, but the area served its purpose in closing a fantastic loop. We did get some good glimpses of Mt Taranaki as we left it behind.

Heading away from the highway again, this time inland.

A steep climb on the highway out of Waitotara was followed by more ascent towards a quarry in the hills – there were an alarming number of big trucks going to and from it. That did at least put us back into the Whanganui region and the landscape got a little rougher and captured my attention more as we rolled down to as close to the coast as we would get.

Crossing the highway for the last time, the Kai Iwi hall provided a nice cool water top-up and shade to make a big dent in the food we were carrying. Only twenty kilometres from the finish point, Fay had put in an eighty kilometre detour up into the hills – a stroke of genius, as I’d soon find out. I’m unsure what others felt about this routing so close to the end, but we had a line to follow and follow it we did. I tried to rationalise the climb as about the same length, with less elevation gain, as one of my local favourites, Waipunga Rd. It didn’t seem so daunting…

A shed – because we’d seen so many on this route, ranging from rustic to tumbledown. I’m sure plenty were slept in…

The climb was steady, shaded and sealed as far as Bushy Park; with little traffic, it was enjoyable. Onto gravel, the steady nature continued – it never got steep and, unlike Waipunga Rd, it never lost altitude significantly. With wide, smooth gravel I was delighting in consistently climbing and seeing what would open up in front of us. This was quickly becoming the highlight of the route, I was having a ball and feeling close to what used to be normal – nothing like getting close to the finish to empty the tank a bit more.

The summit wasn’t immediately obvious as there were slight dips and rises along the top. I waited before the big drop, during which someone told me a wide load was making its way towards us. When Brent appeared, my curiosity as to what on earth was being hauled up here was not strong enough as my conviction we’d easily beat it down the twisty downhill. We scarpered.

Whanganui National Park, again, in the background.

Dropping to, unsurprisingly, Kai Iwi Stream just meant we had to regain 150 metres on another excellent climb.

We did at least make better progress from the stream than some.

Now, this is fun!

Reaching the Kauarapaoa Rd junction, there was ample time to savour the excellent climbing, new sights and be enticed by this:

There started thirty wonderful kilometres of singletrack road, grass up the middle, still next to no traffic and riding bliss into and down the valley. What a way to get back to Whanganui! The best until last, and that’s saying something.

From then an easy section along the river, eventually crossing it near the city centre and grovelling up to the Start/Finish at Durie Hill. A late entry, with everything going on, I was well pleased I’d made the effort to come across and see just what a great route Fay had put together. Thankfully, for my current state, it wasn’t as hilly as I’m used to or I may have really suffered; planning a slower five-day ride worked a treat, plenty of time to eat, rest, recover, and enjoy the sights and good company along the way – thanks especially to Brent.

Made it!

The finish bonus being finally going on the Durie Hill Elevator down the centre of the hill and out the tunnel. An ice cream was in order, and more food besides. Time to pack and head home feeling privileged to have health, means, time and lack of restrictions to enjoy these days exploring more of the country with friends.

Renegades Muster 2021 – Day 4 – Whangamomona to Patea

An earlier start than the very leisurely seven o’clocks, as with so many staying in the same place someone is bound to wake and rise early. That suited as with the thunderstorms cutting Day 3 short, there was an hour or two of extra riding to catch up to the five-day plan. The misty rain we rolled into wasn’t enough for waterproof layers as we were soon off the Forgotten World Highway and heading south.

A little pleasant climbing to start.

The formed road petered out to a gate leading to an unmaintained public road – with signs warning as much. This was where we’d start to discover just how much more difficult that storm had made things. It was a bit muddy as we approached and followed the Tangarakau River, the predominant light brown clayey mud wasn’t too bad but the small patches of grey papa were tacky and soon started sticking and building up. It came close, but thankfully there was never quite enough to bind the wheels completely. With ample patches of grass to ride on, progress was slowed – but not confined to walking.

Leaving the river, to cross Okara Stream and begin the climb out.

Now you tell us.

Rachel and Gina caught up and we climbed together. I see now that we skirted the boundary of Whanganui National Park, I had little idea at the time. Soon we were within a mere five kilometres of where we camped on the first night of the paddle down the Whanganui – only a fortnight before. So much to see in such a small area! Which goes for much of New Zealand really. The surface was more grass-covered and less muddy for the climb, and the cloud kept the temperature down.

The descent on rough farm track to and along Kuri Stream was much fun, riding just on the safe side of loose. I had to slow at times with a couple of herds of cattle to negotiate. We regrouped at each gate – I must have been getting some energy back as I opened and closed plenty! At the farm buildings, we visited the kennels to make use of a high volume hose to get much of the mud off our bikes.

Finally I got to the Bridge to Somewhere! The same as the one to Nowhere, it is slightly more accessible – there is one road to it.

The dirty Kuri joining the “clean” Whangamomona on its way to its Whanganui confluence.

The biggest climb of the day (only a couple of hundred metres) took us out of the Whanganui watershed and back into Taranaki. At the crest I was curious about the Matemateonga trailhead – the other one is near the second night’s campsite of the recent river trip. Might be worth a good hiking adventure someday.

But don’t stray – there was a proliferation of similar signs all the way down the sweet Mangaehu descent.

After noon now, we rejoined sealed roads and stopped in the shade outside a school – eventually finding some water. Easy riding, occasionally a little lumpy, down the valley was still quiet before a pinch climb and short section on the highway towards Stratford; thankfully we turned south before town and headed for Eltham and a good cafe stop. We said our goodbyes to Rachel and Gina trying to accommodation for the night – so it was with some surprise we saw them two hours later rolling through Hawera as we finished our ice cream and dinner.

With plenty of daylight left, we left them again to shorten tomorrow’s ride to the finish, off into the evening heading southeast on a convoluted route that did a good job of mostly avoiding the busy highway.

Looking towards where we’d, in a roundabout way, come from and wondering if there was another afternoon thunderstorm unleashing.

The cap of clouds dissipated as the sun sunk.

The last of the sunlight, it was a nice evening to peel off an easy forty kilometres – characterised by mostly flat dairy land interspersed with dropping into drainages and grovelling up the other side.

We actually put lights on our bikes for the last little stretch of highway into Patea. Just as we were riding into town, I was turning on my GPS’s backlight and noticed the route did a sudden turn right through some farmland. This hadn’t been mentioned; we dutifully followed it for a couple of kilometres down farm tracks and past plenty of curious calves. Back on another edge of town, we found a large implement and hay shed that looked a bit like a council works’ depot and definitely suitable for a place to bed down for the night. Turns out that the detour through private farmland was an unintended anomaly from the mapping software that left a farmer bewildered as to why his land was sudden popular with cyclists; oops!

A lovely evening of riding to finish another great day on the Renegades Muster – our longest yet, but even less climbing than previous days. Great fun, the highlight was the farm section – particularly that descent!

Renegades Muster 2021 – Day 3 – Ohura to Whangamomona

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve bikepacked through Ohura (having never previously heard of it), always enjoying a generous feed at Michelle’s Fiesta Fare Mexican food cart. This time it was nice to stay overnight and help fill the B&B. With a wide main street of empty shops, each time I’ve wondered what this place like back before the mines and prison closed. This article appeared shortly after my last visit and gives some insight.

A misty morning to drag the bikes outside.

Long since shut, but there is a pay phone…

The low cloud blanketing the area was a great way to start the day – a big climb beckoned. Eventually we broke through, continuing our ascent to see the layer’s tendrils stretch up the connected valleys. Much of this day’s riding I’d seen before, such was the quality of riding (remote, quiet, interesting farmland and native forest) I was very much looking forward to seeing it all again.

From the high point of our day, Waitaanga Saddle, the drop through native bush to another now much-quieter-than-days-past place, Waitaanga itself, and then again to near-sea level through two scenic reserves is spectacular.

Reaching the famed Kiwi Road, it was time to turn south, snack and lather on sunscreen as the day heated. Good timing, as the large group of raucous motorbikes re-announced their arrival – this group had passed us yesterday as we approached Owhango. They seemed to have grown in number; we were happy to wait for them to regroup and see them speed pass in the din of obnoxious noise.

Most were more courteous than others.

The steady, bush clad climb up to the first of the day’s three tunnels is most pleasant.

Always nice to find a tunnel near the top of a climb, knowing the last bit of ascent is not required.

The tunnel spat us out into farmland, mostly flat on much wider gravel before notorious traction seal appeared announcing a steep climb. With the late morning sun beating down on us, we sweltered up the ten percent climb.

It did reward us with our first view of the mountain, Taranaki that is.

Dropping again, east onto Moki Road and another climb to its tunnel before a fabulous descent looking over seemingly unstable papa cliffs to the mountain and onto Uruti Domain and turning south on Uruti Road.

Bit slow with this photo.

Clouds haven’t quite covered it yet.

The sign seemed more about the geography than the tarmac.

A cool, fast-flowing stream just before the last tunnel gave a good chance to refill bottles and soak one’s headwear – it was hot, some reported over thirty degrees (I’m sceptical, but it was plenty hot with little wind).

Uruti Road immediately turned to gravel for the sharp drop before some pleasant valley floor riding through marginal farmland. Before the road dead-ended, we were fortunate to have access through a farm to connect with the next road. A brief section through pines was unremarkable (in part due to tree fall having been cleared) before dropping to the Waitara River. Fascinating to think that this river, from way back on the Moki Track (from this adventurous ride five years ago) winds its way all the way south, west and then north to Waitara.

Apparently the bridge is submerged about ten times each year by the flooding river, I was pleased the river was low and the farm dry.

Back up the river.

Probably getting used to seeing bikepackers by now.

It must have been raining heavily recently and then dried, as the four kilometres of farm track out from the river was heavily rutted. Any remaining mud and puddles were mostly-easily avoided – I enjoyed the technical challenge of it all. The worst section by far was that below, just as we exited the farm for an easy ten kilometres to Matau – where we found a verandah at the hall to shelter from the sun for a bit.

Another baking, but mercifully short, climb took us to Pohokura Saddle and the Forgotten World Highway, much less than an hour back on seal to the Whangamomona oasis.

In a stroke of brilliance, Fay and her mother, Liz, had a B&B on the main street of town (charitably, you could say there are two streets in the town) on the route and had a fantastic rider aid station going. We had plenty of time (the joys of taking it easy) to stop and were soon fed with cracking toasties, pizza, cold drinks, tea, and much home baking. Undecided as to whether we’d embark on the second, much longer, farm section that evening (we’d have to get through the three to four hours as no camping was allowed) we lingered refuelling and chatting about how the event was going as the resident ewes and lambs entertained us with their antics.

It started to drizzle, we ate, drank and chatted more. Then the afternoon thunderstorm broke in spectacular fashion. Much lightning all around, booming thunder nearby. We stayed put. At times it looked like it was clearing, but the storm stubbornly sat in the valleys. Refreshments continued, soon it was absolutely bucketing down. With no qualms, we called it a day and accepted that the farm may be a bit muddy in the morning. Gradually Rachel, Happy and Gina rolled in bedraggled with various tales of having been caught in the storm, sheltering in farm sheds and smelling the lightning’s effects as it hit around and on their refuges. Glad we missed that. Also glad to be able to squat for the night at the other B&B across the road – thanks Gina.