Category Archives: NZ

friends, hiking, NZ

Mystery Lake

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Schedules, weather and acceptance of long driving distances finally coincided for a well overdue catch-up and even more overdue overnight outing. From the Potts River trailhead, we set off up and across the river as a hot, sunny and still afternoon began.

Car park view not shabby.

Hudson inspecting the Potts while I try to remember which valley is the Havelock and which is the Clyde at the top of the Rangitata.

Katie soaking Hudson’s cooling jacket – hard work being an active black dog on such days.

After crossing the river a couple of times, we climbed up the gully right of centre (above) and followed the plateau upstream (right to left).

Occasionally Hudson wasn’t off covering far more ground than we were; looking back down to the Rangitata.

One of the bigger scour outs down to the Potts.

Hot going, so the occasional swamp provided cooling opportunities for some.

Having climbed to the high point, we turned east away from the Potts and Mystery Lake came into view – so named, one assumes, as it’s hidden from across the valley by some small hills.

Less mysterious when you’re right next to it.

Only mid-afternoon and still rather hot, once the tents were up there was plenty of time for a dip in the cool water. With yet more time up our sleeves we headed up through the large tussocks and some swampy slopes (these never make much sense) to see what’s at the top of the Dogs Range; a dog, on this occasion.

Spot the tents.

Our exit route for the following day.

Down to Boundary Creek – on the other side of the range from Mystery Lake.

East to Mt Somers Range.

Heading back to camp for dinner, the hills that obscure Mystery Lake obvious here. Behind that, in the shade, the other side of the Potts – roughly showing our route up.

The wind at camp was fickle, but occasionally it dropped – conveniently at sunset.

Arrowsmith Range was a regular point of interest on the horizon throughout the weekend.

Preparing for another sunny day.

But pleasingly we were in the shade of some steep hills for the first five kilometres out, before we joined the Te Araroa trail and turned south-east.

Heading for the nearest extent of the gravel river bed, unfortunately not directly.

I’d ridden this section of the Te Araroa trail four years before and was pleased be walking down the switchbacks instead of pushing or carrying a lightly loaded bike up it.

Over to Lake Clearwater and its curious village of off-grid holiday homes. Mt Harper on left.

We had near ten kilometres of rather flat walking, while still hot and sunny a stiff headwind did take the edge off the temperature. This section was much fun to ride, not quite so on foot. Not bad, but not correspondingly exhilirating.

Hudson ever hopeful, little did he know that I’d only just brought enough food for myself.

Back above the Potts again. Getting close now, thankfully as my feet starting to let me know it’s a long time since I’ve walked seventeen kilometres in a day, and over thirty in a twenty-four-ish hours.

Thanks Katie for an excellent little outing, and the photos that I’m in.

around home, Asia, bikepacking, bikes, family, friends, NZ, travel

The Christmas Letter 2025

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The first half of my year centred around building my garage with Don (brother-in-law’s father). An extremely satisfying and fun project with much problem solving and progress, unsure how I’d have managed it without Don’s help.

Garage building was done around a couple of trips to Napier for some work in the sawmill, experiencing being an extra on a TV series that was being filmed nearby, continuing to volunteer on the local ambulance and finally visiting Stewart Island for a three-generation family holiday.

Fascinating to see behind the scenes, the effort and resource going in seemed somewhat unreal.

Clean shaven for a change, on the off chance you see this mug on the small screen pretending to do some carpentry.

Fortunate to stay in a place owned by friends, surrounded by native trees.

Lots of time around the water, mostly walking, some running and James caught plenty of fish to keep us well fed.

Hiking and camping with my nephews also a highlight.

Besides mountain-biking in the Naseby forest, there wasn’t a lot of New Zealand biking. Some notable rides with friends included local day rides, an overnighter on the Old Woman Range, two trips on the always-fantastic Heaphy Track, and a weekend mountain-biking on the Craigieburn trails.

In June, Mum and I went from Broome to Darwin over two weeks in a campervan. An excellent trip I’ll remember for there being a lot of rocks, trees, birds, spectacular sunsets, crocodiles and heat.

Bit of a shock driving home.

Returning from Australia, there was just enough time to finish lining the garage, move all my belongings from the cottage I’d been renting for three years into the garage and pack for my first bikepacking trip abroad in years – and my longest one. Happily, a long-held desire to visit Japan and it seeming an easy option to get back into some foreign bike touring coincided with bikepacking buddy Rachel’s plan to also tour Japan this year. Visiting Mongolia for a month beforehand wasn’t something I was initially keen on, but I could hardly turn down the chance to go with Rachel and Ian.

We thoroughly enjoyed riding through the big open spaces where one could go and camp almost anywhere. Not without its challenges, we left after a month wanting to return and explore more of the country as the landscapes were beautiful and vast, history interesting, the people very friendly – and the food was better than we’d been led to believe. I’ve not had the energy to document the trip yet, nor do I have many photos of me – thankfully Rachel did a far better job of keeping a record of our travels.

Stopped again by locals driving past in a Toyota Prius, offering local delicacies and support.

(Rachel’s photo.)

Second camel ride for the year.

Japan was also excellent to tour, at the opposite end of many spectrums from Mongolia. Apart from the heat, which took a couple of weeks to ease slightly and get used to, it was far easier going but equally fascinating. We enjoyed the landscapes (particularly visiting many [thirty-four] islands, geothermal areas, mountains, golden rice fields, forests and very clear sea, lakes and rivers). Generally avoiding the cities, the depopulating and decaying rural areas were quite a sight. The food was excellent – my favourites a hot soup curry in Hokkaido and a memorable sashimi meal, but over three months too many excellent ones to remember. Somehow I’ve more snaps, thanks to Rachel and Orlaith, to post here.

Later in the trip, we found many excellent bakeries.

Another day, another convenience store – resupply was seldom an issue.

Occasionally we got off sealed roads and paths – meeting the local spiders and leeches here.

My birthday spent climbing Mt Asahidake, the highest point in Hokkaido, was one of my favourite parts of the trip.

Thankfully the bears we did meet were not as ferocious as these ones.

Again, I’d happily return to see more of Japan – despite having ridden over six thousand circuitous kilometres from north to south, there’s more to see (did I mention the food?). Again, Rachel’s account is far better than the one I may one day get around to.

Back in New Zealand, I enjoyed catching up with friends up north before heading home in time for celebration of a significant birthday of Dad’s – great to see all of his siblings down in Naseby for a busy (and tiring!) long weekend. Unexpectedly, after years of wanting one, an EV that ticked most of many boxes became mine after happening to be going through Christchurch. It’s quite a step up from the venerable Corolla (still going strong) and I’m enjoying the change – and looking forward to it powering my off-grid job site. To end the year, ground was finally broken on my small house project – which will keep me busy for most of next year, and beyond. Quite exciting, but also overwhelming.

Merry Christmas and all the best for the coming year!

family, NZ

Stewart Island family trip

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After years of talking about it, a family trip was finally organised to Stewart Island – thanks to Adele for organising it, and Neil & Jill for the kind use of a family home. Adele and James were the only ones who’d been before; anticipation was high for all.

A calm evening ferry ride over, which was just as well as there was still some seasickness.

We got to the house in the dark, but I couldn’t resist traipsing around the surrounding bush to explore a bit – and see if I could spot a kiwi.

Waking up overlooking Halfmoon Bay.

Jill had told me of a good running loop from the house, predominantly in native forest and along the coast for large parts. I set out to see what I’d find.

Promptly distracted from the route by roads and tracks leading in other directions.

Found myself on Ringaringa Point, looking over Paterson Inlet to Ulva Island.

The trail on the map no longer exists, so I retraced my route to the intended loop. A bit lumpy along the coastal bush section, but I was in no hurry.

Popping back over to Halfmoon Bay and town, it was a short road section back to the house.

Who should I find but James processing his morning’s catch. It became a daily catch, with rod and speargun; we ate a lot of seafood that week and never tired of it!

Back to our accommodation nestled in the bush on right.

Waiting for the water taxi to Ulva Island on Golden Bay.

Thankfully this boat ride was far more enjoyable and exciting for my nephews!

A predator-free island, Ulva is a sanctuary for many native birds. There’s a couple of hours worth of walking tracks and nice beaches to wander while looking for birds.

The robins are many, and not at all shy. Far easier to photograph too!

This was one of the busier beaches on the island.

The following day, the grandparents were given some respite while the rest of us went for an overnight walk and beach camp on the start of the Rakiura Track.

The northern trailhead is at Lee Bay.

Coastal forest for the four kilometres that we walked to Maori Beach.

Plenty to amuse us all at the beach, old sawmilling relics, roasting marshmallows and making smores on an open fire, and general camping life. Still no kiwis spotted, although we certainly heard a loud one nearby in the middle of the night.

Ready to start the return.

Peters Point.

Too cute.

Back to my now favourite cabbage tree.

Sunday brought the first rain of the trip – good going considering Stewart Island’s reputation. But it was bright enough to set off on a walk to Horseshoe Point. Squally showers were pleasant, cooling me a little as I’d overdressed. More beaches and bays to explore as the track wound its way through mostly native forest.

Eventually arriving at Horseshoe Point, looking towards Horseshoe Bay.

After a final pub dinner (more seafood, yum) our short stay was all but over. Just an early morning rainy bundle into the island’s taxi for James and me to take all the luggage downtown – we got a far choppier ferry ride back to the mainland while the rest went on the wee plane.

The rain stopped after we’d done all the baggage moving. Lights back at the house as the rest got ready for the plane, while we waited for the ferry.

An excellent family holiday at a leisurely pace in a wonderful little spot of the country – I hope a return visit takes far less time than the first.

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Old Woman Range

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Far too long since I’d been bikepacking on my actual bikepacking bike, the lure of finally exploring the Old Woman Range in good autumn conditions did the trick – having biked past, or around it, a number of times my curiosity had long since been piqued. So we downed garage-building tools a day early and I headed to Clyde partially packed for a night in the hills.

A leisurely start across the fields, Leaning Rock in the distance.

We found the calm morning changed to a noticeable headwind as the breeze funnelled down the gorge on the Lake Dunstan Cycle Trail. Concern that the rental-bike traffic would be overwhelming was unfounded – except at the narrowest part of the trail (of course!).

A lovely morning’s riding, even if my legs aren’t used to a loaded bike anymore. Wasn’t long before future plans were switching to this bike, away from the faster, lighter gravel bike.

(Rachel’s photo)

Autumnal; out of the gorge and the wind all but gone.

After lunch in Bannockburn we headed for the Nevis Rd, somewhat overwhelmed by a long convoy of vehicles heading that way. What was going on out here? Turning onto the gravel we spied a solitary classic beribboned Rolls Royce, but unattended. Curious.

The Shepherds Creek valley and grovel out of it were baking with no breeze and a thirty degree afternoon. I stopped at a thread of a water race to cool off. A few more pick-ups passed us heading up, and then the motos started coming down. Identical adventure bikes, individually numbered into the 100s, they just kept rolling down – we never discovered what big organised ride they were on.

(Rachel’s photo)

With the grade averaging close to ten percent, I was soon off and pushing at anything over that – which was familiar from the last, more-heavily loaded, trip up here. As we climbed there was still no wind, but the air temperature cooled a bit.

The reason for all the traffic became clear as we approached the summit – suddenly feeling rather underdressed amongst a hundred-odd wedding guests enjoying the views and a few drinks to celebrate. Don’t think they could have got a better day for it!

Extraordinary.

Finally got to see Mt Cook from up here.

With two options to get from the road down to actual Duffers Saddle, we chose the one that took us over the summit of the road to pose with the incorrect Duffers Saddle sign.

(Rachel’s photo)

Quite a drop from the road to the saddle and what looked to be a big push to get on the Old Woman Range.

Some of it I could ride. (Rachel’s photo)

Well pleased with the clear views back to the ranges around home, and that I can now name them all and some of the peaks.

Approaching five o’clock, with only sixty kilometres but over two thousands metres of climbing, I was pretty toasted. Another two-plus hours to get Boundary Hut didn’t sound fun or sensible to me – not when Old Woman Hut was so close and it was new to me.

An easy decision to turn-off and roll down to the hut. A couple of young fellas were already there, having come up on motorbikes – but they clearly didn’t like us, so left after an hour or so. We settled in to a very comfortable hut – it’s recently been relined inside with ply and the sleeping platforms are also new. A short walk up from the hut gives good views of the Nevis Valley, and Mt Cook again.

(Rachel’s photo)

(Rachel’s photo)

After a fairly decent sleep, it was another slow start – that worked well as the hundred-odd motorbikes from yesterday reappeared and were initially using the same route we were. Waiting them out, we only got passed by nine or ten after rejoining the route along Old Woman Range. Having done most of the climbing the day before, it was far easier going – not as steep and not nearly as much of it. We snaked up and down for a few hours glad there was little wind and the forecast weather deterioration was staying away. I was surprised by the number of tarns.

Generally a good riding surface; there was the odd bog from 4WDs to avoid.

Mostly we enjoyed the wide open expanses at such altitude.

Heading for the little bump on the right horizon.

A couple of hours in we passed the turn-off to Boundary Hut – I was particularly pleased to have not pushed that far on Day One. Curiosity was not so strong to want to drop the best part of a hundred metres to see what we’d missed. We joined the Old Man Range at Hyde Rock – which was not at all notable on approach from the tops.

Far more prominent from the valley – of which it gave expansive views.

The rain looked closer out west, so north to the Obelisk we went. Back on a route I’d done before, the track and surroundings were familiar but were completely different without the gale wind blowing riders into fences or turning loaded bikes into kites. I think about my previous visit far too often.

At least I got a few photos this time – this the climb that needed the most effort that day.

The transmitter was visible far back, but only got bigger annoyingly slowly.

Made it and managed not to get clean blown over this time. (Rachel’s photo)

I was particularly looking forward to the Omeo Gully descent. The downhill, dropping 1500 m did not disappoint in any way. It was rough, rocky and loose in parts – as well as steep as I’d want to ride on a loaded bike, encroached by giant tussocks and, when waiting, it gave great views. An absolute blast – loved it. Alas, I was having too much fun to get pictures of the best parts.

Still on the ridge, approaching the turn-off right. Track already rougher than the transmitter service road we’d just been on.

(Rachel’s photo)

(Rachel’s photo)

The lower reaches mellowed out through grazed hillside.

What a great way to get back into bikepacking, finally got up there and motivation is back for more trips. Thanks to Rachel for the idea, impetus and, as always, being a great adventure buddy. Thanks to Mark, Paula and Eilish for the accommodation, untold cups of tea and terrific post-ride cookies that went a long way to replacing any lost calories.