Category Archives: hiking

Mt Adatara

Could have been a nice rest day, especially as it was hot again. But seems we couldn’t resist clear blue skies and going up a mountain. Rest later I guess. But first a leisurely breakfast with Seiko – even had some Vegemite, different treat to those we were used to in Japan.

Couldn’t believe we’d found a microwave even older than Rachel’s back in NZ.

Loving the old appliances, still going strong.

Top cover.

After nine o’clock was enough of a late start, especially as it was soon over thirty degrees – back across the end of yesterday’s route before turning into the mountains.

Still a little way to go.

Seems squirrels like hot springs too.

Didn’t stop for long, except to get cold drinks and supplies at the konbini.

750 metres of climbing took us close to two hours all up, at least it was shaded in parts and we were unloaded. We had to stop for more cold drinks before catching the ropeway (cable car) another 400 metres higher up the mountain.

Back where we came from.

Wasn’t expecting to see these animals up here.

What this doesn’t show is the 400 m more to climb…

Bit of a plod up the mountain due to the heat and residual tiredness (did I mention a rest day would be nice?). But beautiful walking and we finally got clear skies and views from a summit! The crater was particularly impressive, with a good whiff of sulfur. To the south we could see Lake Inawashiro – tomorrow’s destination.

(Rachel’s photo)

(Rachel’s photo)

It was an amble down, while ensuring we did not miss the last cable car.

A fun whizz down the hill, besides returning to the cauldron of the valley. We passed some of the same people working the same rice fields as earlier in the day – much to their bemusement.

Back to Seiko’s house for a tasty homemade chicken curry with rice from her own fields. It was interesting to learn a bit more of what it was like for Seiko growing up here and spending time in a good example of the type of house we’d been passing so often. Thanks for having us, Seiko.

(Rachel’s photo)

Pippu to Asahikawa

Ninety minutes of riding to and then sidling the foothills of the volcanic mountains took us to Higashikawa in plenty of time to work out the bus timetable, eat at the farmers market inside the bus station, browse the Mont Bell store and work out where to leave our bikes in town for hours. Broad daylight in a public thoroughfare should be fine…

Very poor timing out here.

Nice to see little rail cars still trundling around the countryside.

I dived off the road seeing a sign for Canmore Ski Village. Canmore being the town in the Canadian Rockies I lived in for a year – what is going on here?

Not the Canmore I was used to.

Amused by the replacement of the maple leaf in the flag.

<

Curious.

Curiouser.

Turns out Canmore, Alberta, is twinned with Higashikawa. Makes some sort of sense.

The bus to the ropeway was fair packed, but it beat riding up the narrow mountain road in the heat. The ropeway took us to 1600 m, we had four hours to get back before the ropeway closed. Only 700 m left to climb to the summit of Mt Asahidake – the highest mountain in Hokkaido. Surely that would be enough, it was only three-ish kilometres.

At least it was cooler up here. (That’s the summit elevation, bit misleading.)

Path flat for a little before beginning the climb. Plenty to look at though, misty peak, nice lake and some geothermal activity.

Up we go. Pretty rocky and loose, but easily walkable.

This section was better underfoot!

Pausing to look around most worthwhile.

Volcanic colours starting to show. Also, typically well-covered Japanese hiker.

We, on the other hand, not as nearly protected from the sun in our bike gear.

I do like fumarole fotos.

Misty clouds continually blowing through as we ascended; occasional views.

Fair bit of traffic, but not overwhelming.

Made it to the top to find we were only three hours’ walk from Kurodake – where we’d been two days before.

Not much of a view down the way we came.

But summit lunch wasn’t bad – some views in the opposite direction.

Bit clearer on the way down.

The descent was good fun, trying to stride, or jump, between large stepping stones and avoid the scree. Back to the flatter section, we still had two hours to spare – it was excellent to have the time to wander around the lower paths as the sky was clearer and it was absolutely gorgeous. So stunning in fact, I’m just going to put all these photos here and not write anything for a bit (!).

Easily making the last gondola, we hitched a ride back to town with an Australian couple – nice to avoid the crowded bus and fun to hear their experiences driving around Hokkaido. Six hours later, our bikes and all our gear were still where we left them against a shop wall in the busiest part of town. Touring in Japan so easy on many counts. An easy cruise down to Asahikawa on cycle trail alongside the Chubetsu River.

A bit neglected early on it soon became a top-notch piece of trail and then very well used.

A free campground in a big city park was home for the night – its point of difference in my mind was the absurdly loud music that played in the toilet block when one entered! After bathing at the largest public onsen of our trip, it was up the street for a barbecue dinner. Excellent day, still remains one of the highlights, if not the highlight, of my time in Japan.

Nukabira to Sounkyo

Must have been cooler overnight, as first night in the sleeping bags (by now they’d come out of their bags and I tended to use mine as a duvet only). But soon another hot and humid day…

Another camp visitor at breakfast time. Well, we were the visitors – this one probably a local.

Out of Nukabira to spend the day getting deeper into Daisetsuzan National Park. First riding around Lake Nukabira reasonably flat and surrounded by lush forest. Rail remnants on both sides of the lake, old bridges the most visible. We’d heard all about the famed Phantom Bridge – a large viaduct on the other side of the lake that can only been seen when the lake is really low, usually later in the winter and early spring before the snow melt. But climate being what it is and the summer being really hot and dry…

We soon spotted it from afar.

Rachel towering over me as I muck around taking photos.

Further down the highway, we found a small walking path into the woods for a better view of the bridge. Crossing the former rail bed, it wasn’t far to the lake edge (well, what is normally the edge of the lake).

Looks a prime candidate for a rail trail.

Very tempting to ride along it, but previous experience reminds us that it might be blocked or a bridge out quite soon. Alas.

Back to the highway to find we may have entered a Mad Max world. What is this?!

Many deer around happy doing their thing next to passing cars and cyclists.

Oh, it’s a mower; even we could pass this.

Except one poor young deer got a little close to the traffic; Rachel showing her veterinary side and helping it off the road – little else to be done for it unfortunately.

Leaving the lake behind, an hour’s pleasant, forested, gradual climbing along the valley floor took us to the foot of the climb to Mizuyna Pass – the highest paved road in Hokkaido. Beautiful climbing and views back over the wild caldera. The civil engineering was striking too as we rode over some large viaducts to get to the top. Well, top of the road – of course there was a tunnel to avoid the last bit of the terrain.

Rachel’s photo.

But before the tunnel, a bonus – an unexpected, and open, cafe!

Very cute outside and in.

Coffee art was also top-notch, I’m told.

Also our introduction to cheese-on-doorstep-toast.

Recommended for hungry cyclists, or in general. I’m still disappointed I didn’t find a similarly excellent jug to buy and bring home.

To the tunnel! Relatively short, but cut out over a hundred metres more climbing.

Thirty kilometres mostly descending flew by.

Spotted a lot of these fake-trees – we assumed for avalanche control.

Flattening out a bit.

Water levels definitely low.

Rolling into the small alpine village of Sounkyo – only a few steep streets and some big empty waterways, we certainly wouldn’t be seeing any flash floods.

Jian, who we’d met a few days ago, told us of a hostel that offered half-price for long distance cyclists – couldn’t turn that down with the weather that was around. Having checked in and had lunch, we rushed off to the ropeway (cable car) to ascend out of the gorge to hike around a little in the cloud.

Typical flood control weir, barrier that we saw all over the country.

After the long cable car, a short walk to a long chairlift – starting to cool down exposed up here.

Village visible just, route of the chairlift obvious.

Suddenly up in the sub-alpine.

And with a bit of walking on the rocky trail, into the alpine.

The cloud kept blowing through, so at times we got a bit of a view of the plateau and then volcanic peaks and craters.

Heading for those buildings, a small lodge and even smaller store (!).

A good little base for further exploring; but we only had a few hours – so return to Sounkyo we must.

From the roof of the ropeway top station.

Most of Sounkyo village.

Jian recommended a ramen restaurant for dinner.

That was an excellent day with the varied riding, lifts and hiking taking us to great places.

Mt Rishiri

Our best, near, view yet of Rishiri greeted us out of the tents as we prepared for the day’s hike to the top. A comparatively easy sixteen kilometre ride to the trailhead, having to climb a couple of hundred metres nothing compared with the 1500 m on foot to the summit.

Hopefully as charming as this.

Very easy going to start.

Starting to steepen and become less paved.

Beautiful forest lower – spruces, various pines, silver birch were some of the trees we recognised.

Soon out of the forest, confirmation unfortunately that the cloud had rolled in.

It was easy to see just how much water must come down this track; the level of upkeep done to keep it serviceable obvious and impressive (Rachel’s photo).

By now it was very hot and humid, difficult to know if it was worth keeping jacket on to keep from the mist wetting us as sweat was also an issue. By the time we were a quarter of the way up, it became clear we had not made a particularly early start – there were already a lot of people coming down the mountain! Don’t think we ever adjusted to making the most of daylight arriving at four o’clock in the morning.

Occasional glimpses of the top possible.

As the vegetation got shorter, it and the heat started to remind me of being in tea fields.

Three-quarters of the way up there was some respite from the otherwise relentless climbing – my legs were not looking forward to the descent.

It still looks a fair way off.

Back in the mist.

Plastic pipes filled with rocks made for an interesting staircase and erosion control option on this particularly steep section.

Although they started to feel like they would be ideal for people twice as tall as us.

Greeted by rain near the summit shrine.

Made it (two hours and twenty); we didn’t stick around for long on account of rain and no view, alas (Orlaith’s photo).

Curious number of boat propellors lugged up here.

The descent was pretty hard going on my legs, it wasn’t a lot quicker than the climb – which gives some indication of the amount of traffic on the track, steepness and my lack of hiking conditioning. I couldn’t walk without discomfit for quite some days! Just as well we were on a bike trip. We did get a few more clear patches on the way down.

Ferry leaving for Rebun, as we would tomorrow.

Rebun, not so far away as Hokkaido; spot the ferry.

That rather distinctive bridge that we saw yesterday, and would ride over tomorrow.

These cicadas were unbelievably loud; if I’d have had ear plugs on me, I’d have used them.

Back in the forest; legs jelly-like by now.

Still can’t see the top as we biked back to camp, after an ice cream at a konbini.

There it is.

Still a bit of the afternoon left; there may have been some swimming in the fishing cove – but not for me, onsen later on was most welcome.

Dinner at an izakaya, where we sat at the bar watching the action.

Happy with the tempura, and to be sitting down (Rachel’s photo).

Nice to see the lanterns lit tonight…

and a big moon come to join us, mountain finally clear of cloud.