Tag Archives: Mongolia25

Back to Ulaan Baatar

Returning to Ulaan Baatar, on a highway we were pleased not to be riding – only one nasty crash scene seen, we had two days to clean and pack our bikes and gear. Not having to find bike boxes as we’d stored ours from NZ at the hostel, it didn’t take too long to pack. But I did want to find a set of individual hex keys, particularly a 6 mm, and thread fastener for the next leg of the trip. Ian and I spent some time on foot going to places that may or may not have been hardware stores. After some failures, we hit the jackpot at a large two-storey indoor mall filled with small shops that specialised in one type of engineering goods or other.

An electrical components shop.

Rather obvious what they’re selling.

Safety shop.

All quite fascinating, it reminded me of Istanbul and its engineering shopping district! We did find what we were looking for too.

Our last day in Mongolia was spent on a day trip of some sights in and outside the capital. First up the largest Soviet influenced monument I remember from our visit – the Zaisan Memorial, on a hill near the edge of the city. To commemorate the fallen Mongolia and Soviet soldiers in the Second World War, the panoramic mosaic on the inside was impressive in size and detail.

First, some stairs.

Good view of the city.

Still a little smoggy.

A flasher part of the city, right on the edge.

(Rachel’s photo.)

Unfortunately our next stop, a winter palace was closed for the day.

The most remarkable aspect of this scene for me is not the palace, although I do like all the green, it is the use of a lawnmower in Mongolia!

Leaving the city, we were off to the giant statue of Chinggis Kahn – the largest horse and rider statue in the world, unsurprising when you see it up close, big is an understatement. All the stainless steel looking rather fetching.

It was all pretty touristy, but being tourists we couldn’t complain too much.

Ian aside Mongolia’s tallest man.

Very crowded inside, we did make it up the congested, tight staircase to emerge from Chinggis’s crotch onto the neck of the horse.

Back inside and the world’s largest leather boot – if you were wondering.

Stopping at a roadside ger restaurant, we struggled ordering again and were pleasantly surprised when a huge bowl of roast lamb and veges arrived, along with milk tea and fermented mare’s milk (which was better than the other time I’d sampled this). Well, Ian and I were delighted with the meal – Rachel and Pauline perhaps not so much.

After all that food, I may have been a bit sleepy for the rest of the afternoon at a national park where there were plenty of rock formations that one could imagine were animal shaped. The best example being Turtle Rock below.

Nicely balanced.

Interesting rocks all around, animal shaped or not.

Up the end of the valley was a large temple complex, that required a decent uphill walk, ostensibly for meditative purposes – it was so busy, the few quiet moments away from the crowds were pleasing.

With a final Mongolia ice cream, it was back to the car and into UB for the last time and our last night in Mongolia – this trip that is, we all left the following morning hoping to return one day. What a great place to explore by bike and so much open space to roam and camp in; very friendly and hospitable people too, even if our grasp of the Mongolia language never developed beyond poor.

Hustai National Park

After breakfast overlooking the Little Gobi, a longer drive to get us most of the way back to Ulaan Baatar awaited. I may have dozed for much of it. Off the highway, a bumpy dirt track took us towards the gates of Hustai National Park. Buying an entry ticket was more difficult than any other purchase of our month in Mongolia – the only time we had to use US dollars, thankfully Ian and Rachel had been carrying some around for weeks.

Last night in the tents in Mongolia – near the playground and outside the main tourist village for the park.

Once someone opened it for us, we spent time in the visitor centre learning about the local area and Przewalki’s horse – what we’d come to see. An extra pair of chromosomes the main, of a number, difference between them and domesticated horses. Long thought the only wild horse (c.f. brumbies and mustangs), they died out in the wild but have been reintroduced to a few habitats – Hustai being one.

As dusk approached, when the horses would start to come down from the hills to drink, we drove into the park to an area set up for viewing.

Spot the horses was quite difficult from such distance.

Eventually we could pick some out on the skyline.

They didn’t seem that thirsty, we watched them from afar for ages.

There were a couple of scopes set-up to get a better view through. Taking photos through it was hit and miss.

While we waited a large group of park rangers arrived on dirt bikes and a couple of horses. Apparently there was a domestic horse in the herd, and they wanted it out. A couple of the rangers took off up the steep hill.

Slowly the horses made their way down the slopes.

This guy must have been tasked with final capture of the imposter – a loop of rope was on the end of the pole.

The two bikes appeared on the ridge and descended to corral the horses. Suddenly, all hell broke loose and there were noisy dirt bikes going everywhere chasing the horses up the valley and then wheeling them around back down the other side of the valley.

Eventually the domestic horse was separated and captured.

Excitement and horse viewing over, it was back to camp for our last Mongolian camp meal – undoubtedly noodles, some veges and questionable meat – and what would have been a peaceful night, but for some late arrivals setting up camp just up the hill and having a karoake party into the wee hours.

This seemed to be a gathering spot for European campervans; we’d not seen a single one on our ride, yet the overlanders chose to meet here. Weird.

Little Gobi

The short ride back to Kharkhorin was done in plenty of time to get organised and meet our transport back to Ulaan Baatar.

Easier packing into a modern Toyota than a UAZ bread loaf van.

More advanced suspension was nice too, although the added distraction of a large screen playing music videos did not seem to improve our driver’s already questionable speed and direction smoothness.

Out of the hills and pleased not to be riding along this road.

Thankfully we didn’t have far to go, ninety kilometres or so, to the Little Gobi – where a long, thin strip of sand dunes seem to rise from far granite peaks and extend for eighty kilometres, punctuated by spring-fed lakes. Quite a strange sight in itself. We were staying in a small ger camp on a hill overlooking a vast landscape – one that I struggled to capture by camera.

Another bright home for the night.

For the second time in two months, I found myself riding a camel! This time, the rare two-humped Bactrian variety. Unlike last month’s ride, as one would expect for Mongolia over more-regulated-Australia, the ride was less tame. In a small train, we wandered to and over some of the dunes – pitching and rolling only a little as the magnificent animals took the terrain in their long stride.

Surely this hurts less than it looks.

I was fascinated watching each step as the two toes contacted the soft sand and spread the load evenly.

The camels being much wider than the horses we’d ridden on the previous day (even more so compared to our normal bike steeds), after an hour or so we were left walking like a gunslinger of yore. A walk around the lower reaches of granite peaks in Khongo Khan park was in order. It was quite hot and dry, so we didn’t spend overly long looking around some old buildings and just generally checking out the interesting plants and creatures.

Strangely tame ground squirrels.

Back to camp for dinner and another stroll up into the hills to see what we could see as the sun sank to the horizon.

Around Kharkhorin

A rest day spent in Kharkhorin – once the capital of the vast Mongol empire, it’s a lot less central to world affairs these days. Between organising our last week in Mongolia, catching up with loved ones, and bike maintenance, there was plenty of time to walk around and see what was about.

Ger ceiling, not as elaborate as some – but still much nicer than the inside of my tent.

Derelict industrial buildings always intriguing to me.

Strolling down to the old walled complex once home to scores of monasteries – since the Soviet occupation, not so much.

Most of the second ring of new shop buildings still sitting empty. But we did find a good cafe.

Apparently the coffee was good, but the wild rhubarb (of which we’d seen a bit in the hills) pie was of greater interest to me.

Just a small section of the wall of old Kharkhorin.

And a small part inside the walls – was staggeringly vast all up.

Not all the temples were lost, we could go inside some – but no photos.

For big prayers.

Didn’t work out what the occasion was, but good fun watching these guys enjoying themselves.

Finally found some postcards, and a lot of stamps! Back of the cards may have been mostly stamps…

Still loving the meat pockets…

Supermarket shopping a bit challenging – unless one wanted to buy a lot of candy.

We rode ten kilometres or so out of town to stay the night with a family in their ger camp.

First a stop at the big monument to the Mongol empire and Mongolia that we’d seen on the top of a ridge from the other side of the river on our ride into town.

Small empire.

Kharkhorin.

Vast empire.

Heading down there to stay on the true right of the Orkhon.

Yes, another ger. At least the hard beds were less of an issue after having gotten somewhat used to sleeping on the ground when my camping mattress failed.

A bit of wrangling so that we could go for a ride. Turned out to be more of a walk, but one of the adult sons of the family had spent time in New Zealand – so could chat with him a bit easier than most locals.

More homemade dairy goodness.

Ian and I managing to not fall off horses – the first time either of us had ridden one for many years. But as it was so slow, it was very easy going.

Nice evening for wandering the river flats though.