Category Archives: friends

Around Tokyo – Enoshima, Kamakura, Kawazaki

Out of Koji on the train for Tokyo – successfully changed at Hachioji to meet Thomas at Machida. The day still a haze of fever, tiredness, runny nose, more trains and walking a lot in the heat. First stop Enoshima Beach – very popular for surfing (I struggled to see why) and bathing.

Many rusted cruisers with surfboard carriers mounted on the side.

Back to tsunami escape platforms, although this one is pretty short so maybe it’s something else?

Sand bathing anyone? Buried up to one’s neck and left to sit there soaking in the warmth? I did not understand the appeal. Admittedly it made more sense than surfing in those conditions.

Another board carrier, trailer might be picking litter (unlikely in Japan) or grooming the sand (more likely), big corporate function and over to Enoshima Island – we were walking towards it.

By the time we got to the island, I was exhausted so I left Rachel and Thomas to climb through the crowds while I went and tried to nap on some grass in the relative quiet. Eventually we returned to the mainland and caught a small train to Kamakura – a very popular spot, and where Thomas and Keiko were wed.

Another wedding in progress, popular spot – could see a little of what was going on.

Impressive structure and colours.

Also a popular spot to post prayers.

Or fold them up.

With some time before meeting some of Thomas’s immediate and extended family, we trained to the waterside in Kawazaki – enjoying lounging on the grass watching the world go by as it cooled a bit. Most pleasant.

(Rachel’s photo.)

Fortunately, in my impaired state, I didn’t have to come to grips with the Tokyo transportation network – just try to keep up. Apparently it’s very logical and well laid out, but I barely gave it a thought.

We met Keiko and Leila, and Uji (Keiko’s brother) and Kazumi for a fun monjayaki dinner – a more liquid batter version of okonmiyaki, cooked in front of us; plenty of tasty seafood too. My attempts to not be terrible company and not spread whatever I had around were successful enough – only Rachel later caught whatever I had, inevitably but not as badly.

(Rachel’s photo.)

Eventually more walking and trains back to Thomas and Keiko’s home. Thomas had logged 26,000 steps for the day – so not a particularly recuperative time keeping up, but I wasn’t going to miss finally being in Tokyo!

Little Gobi

The short ride back to Kharkhorin was done in plenty of time to get organised and meet our transport back to Ulaan Baatar.

Easier packing into a modern Toyota than a UAZ bread loaf van.

More advanced suspension was nice too, although the added distraction of a large screen playing music videos did not seem to improve our driver’s already questionable speed and direction smoothness.

Out of the hills and pleased not to be riding along this road.

Thankfully we didn’t have far to go, ninety kilometres or so, to the Little Gobi – where a long, thin strip of sand dunes seem to rise from far granite peaks and extend for eighty kilometres, punctuated by spring-fed lakes. Quite a strange sight in itself. We were staying in a small ger camp on a hill overlooking a vast landscape – one that I struggled to capture by camera.

Another bright home for the night.

For the second time in two months, I found myself riding a camel! This time, the rare two-humped Bactrian variety. Unlike last month’s ride, as one would expect for Mongolia over more-regulated-Australia, the ride was less tame. In a small train, we wandered to and over some of the dunes – pitching and rolling only a little as the magnificent animals took the terrain in their long stride.

Surely this hurts less than it looks.

I was fascinated watching each step as the two toes contacted the soft sand and spread the load evenly.

The camels being much wider than the horses we’d ridden on the previous day (even more so compared to our normal bike steeds), after an hour or so we were left walking like a gunslinger of yore. A walk around the lower reaches of granite peaks in Khongo Khan park was in order. It was quite hot and dry, so we didn’t spend overly long looking around some old buildings and just generally checking out the interesting plants and creatures.

Strangely tame ground squirrels.

Back to camp for dinner and another stroll up into the hills to see what we could see as the sun sank to the horizon.

Around Kharkhorin

A rest day spent in Kharkhorin – once the capital of the vast Mongol empire, it’s a lot less central to world affairs these days. Between organising our last week in Mongolia, catching up with loved ones, and bike maintenance, there was plenty of time to walk around and see what was about.

Ger ceiling, not as elaborate as some – but still much nicer than the inside of my tent.

Derelict industrial buildings always intriguing to me.

Strolling down to the old walled complex once home to scores of monasteries – since the Soviet occupation, not so much.

Most of the second ring of new shop buildings still sitting empty. But we did find a good cafe.

Apparently the coffee was good, but the wild rhubarb (of which we’d seen a bit in the hills) pie was of greater interest to me.

Just a small section of the wall of old Kharkhorin.

And a small part inside the walls – was staggeringly vast all up.

Not all the temples were lost, we could go inside some – but no photos.

For big prayers.

Didn’t work out what the occasion was, but good fun watching these guys enjoying themselves.

Finally found some postcards, and a lot of stamps! Back of the cards may have been mostly stamps…

Still loving the meat pockets…

Supermarket shopping a bit challenging – unless one wanted to buy a lot of candy.

We rode ten kilometres or so out of town to stay the night with a family in their ger camp.

First a stop at the big monument to the Mongol empire and Mongolia that we’d seen on the top of a ridge from the other side of the river on our ride into town.

Small empire.

Kharkhorin.

Vast empire.

Heading down there to stay on the true right of the Orkhon.

Yes, another ger. At least the hard beds were less of an issue after having gotten somewhat used to sleeping on the ground when my camping mattress failed.

A bit of wrangling so that we could go for a ride. Turned out to be more of a walk, but one of the adult sons of the family had spent time in New Zealand – so could chat with him a bit easier than most locals.

More homemade dairy goodness.

Ian and I managing to not fall off horses – the first time either of us had ridden one for many years. But as it was so slow, it was very easy going.

Nice evening for wandering the river flats though.

Mystery Lake

Schedules, weather and acceptance of long driving distances finally coincided for a well overdue catch-up and even more overdue overnight outing. From the Potts River trailhead, we set off up and across the river as a hot, sunny and still afternoon began.

Car park view not shabby.

Hudson inspecting the Potts while I try to remember which valley is the Havelock and which is the Clyde at the top of the Rangitata.

Katie soaking Hudson’s cooling jacket – hard work being an active black dog on such days.

After crossing the river a couple of times, we climbed up the gully right of centre (above) and followed the plateau upstream (right to left).

Occasionally Hudson wasn’t off covering far more ground than we were; looking back down to the Rangitata.

One of the bigger scour outs down to the Potts.

Hot going, so the occasional swamp provided cooling opportunities for some.

Having climbed to the high point, we turned east away from the Potts and Mystery Lake came into view – so named, one assumes, as it’s hidden from across the valley by some small hills.

Less mysterious when you’re right next to it.

Only mid-afternoon and still rather hot, once the tents were up there was plenty of time for a dip in the cool water. With yet more time up our sleeves we headed up through the large tussocks and some swampy slopes (these never make much sense) to see what’s at the top of the Dogs Range; a dog, on this occasion.

Spot the tents.

Our exit route for the following day.

Down to Boundary Creek – on the other side of the range from Mystery Lake.

East to Mt Somers Range.

Heading back to camp for dinner, the hills that obscure Mystery Lake obvious here. Behind that, in the shade, the other side of the Potts – roughly showing our route up.

The wind at camp was fickle, but occasionally it dropped – conveniently at sunset.

Arrowsmith Range was a regular point of interest on the horizon throughout the weekend.

Preparing for another sunny day.

But pleasingly we were in the shade of some steep hills for the first five kilometres out, before we joined the Te Araroa trail and turned south-east.

Heading for the nearest extent of the gravel river bed, unfortunately not directly.

I’d ridden this section of the Te Araroa trail four years before and was pleased be walking down the switchbacks instead of pushing or carrying a lightly loaded bike up it.

Over to Lake Clearwater and its curious village of off-grid holiday homes. Mt Harper on left.

We had near ten kilometres of rather flat walking, while still hot and sunny a stiff headwind did take the edge off the temperature. This section was much fun to ride, not quite so on foot. Not bad, but not correspondingly exhilirating.

Hudson ever hopeful, little did he know that I’d only just brought enough food for myself.

Back above the Potts again. Getting close now, thankfully as my feet starting to let me know it’s a long time since I’ve walked seventeen kilometres in a day, and over thirty in a twenty-four-ish hours.

Thanks Katie for an excellent little outing, and the photos that I’m in.