Tag Archives: Japan25

Asia, bikepacking, bikes, GPS

Chitose to Sapporo

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A very slow start after the long day previous travelling and a hot, sticky night. The lightest of drizzles completing the wetting of the tents that the humidity hadn’t managed. Strange looking campground, found out later that it was once a short golf course (pitch and putt). There was a big central barn-like structure which was useful for escaping the damp, if one avoided the various machinery and paraphernalia. Orlaith, having flown in the day before us, rode in and took us back to a bikepacking trio.

Surprised to see a couple of these New Zealand products – Kindling Cracker – amongst everything else.

Being close to the airport, there were quite a few people starting or finishing tours of Hokkaido. A friendly Canadian motorcyclist helped us try to diagnose and fix the problems with Orlaith’s gears, while I switched my pedals for some that Orlaith had kindly brought from home. A less-friendly Israeli man was quite the Debbie Downer explaining in far too much detail why he didn’t enjoy bike touring Hokkaido – just what one wants to hear at the start of a trip. Quite annoying, but good to remember that Complainy-pants was the common factor in all the stories.

Back to the airport (avoiding the freeway this time, but not navigational missteps) for me to post a package of things that were essential in Mongolia, but completely unnecessary in Japan. Quite a process declaring every little thing in the parcel, but that chore done we were off north towards Sapporo – the capital and largest city of Hokkaido. There must have been a heavy downpour while we were in the airport, as there was a little flooding on our route.

But, blue skies.

In Chitose we found a friendly bike shop that fixed the dodgy gears, sold me a new chain, provided bear spray, and let us hang our tents on their bike racks to dry. We left the city through an area of new warehouses (quiet on a Saturday afternoon) and small factories, interspersed by some housing. Out of there, we found some cycle trails beside waterways before extensive market gardens – everything pretty green, it felt like we were the ones in a hot house.

Small to medium solar farms all over the place would soon be a common sight.

The only climb of the day, all of about fifty metres, but in the heat, took us up to Kitahiroshima and a little urban riding – before we got on another cycle trail (felt like an old rail corridor) that was nicely shaded.

Baseball stadium with retractable roof.

Not wanting to go all the way into the city, we started to look for somewhere to camp on the edge of the trail. Not the easiest as it was quite busy. Finding an option, we left for our first onsen (hot springs, public baths) and dinner. This provided plenty of opportunity to try things for the first thing – leaving loaded bikes unlocked in broad daylight in a busy place, buying tickets (for both entry and, later, dinner) using coin-operated vending machines, onsen etiquette and so on. Blissful to have a proper wash and get rid of the pervasive sweat, not too mention having the meal-ordering roulette promising to have more flavour and variety than the Mongolian version.

Once night had set in, we dragged ourselves out into the heat (being sweat-free did not last long) and returned up the trail. Getting pegs into an old rail bed was hard work – tents went up eventually for another fitful night’s sleep.

Asia, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, travel

Ulaan Baatar to Chitose

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An early morning transfer to the airport was markedly faster than the reverse four weeks earlier. With some sadness we farewelled Mongolia and Ian – both having helped to make for a fantastic month’s of bikepacking. Strangely, we were flying United to Tokyo – which was adequate, but things ran late all day. Mongolia having been an addition to the original trip plan, I was very much looking forward to finally getting to, and spending three months biking in, Japan.

With a shortened time to make our connection at Narita to fly north to Hokkaido, things got a bit rushed as we had to collect and recheck our bike boxes. This proved most amusing as the airport staff were not used to bike boxes and it seemed they would not fit through the X-ray machine. So with a lot of helpful supervision and people kindly making a fuss over us, we had to unpack our bikes. The staff however seemed far more interested in our bikepacking gear as a concept, rather than as a means to conceal anything nefarious.

After the performance, we did make our connection in time. Well, we were on time.

Landing at Chitose, we were somewhat at how dark it was so early in the evening. For some reason, we started assembling our bikes in the terminal – probably on account of the high temperature and humidity outside. This was not the done thing, and we were moved on to finish putting bikes together outside. Dinner was our first taste of famed konbini (convenience store) fare.

Ready to go again.

Almost ten o’clock by now, thankfully it was not ten kilometres to get to the camping ground Rachel had booked and organised a late arrival at. Setting off at such an hour in a new country wasn’t the best – but at least it meant when we found ourselves on some sort of freeway, there wasn’t much traffic! Maps had us on an elevated road when we wanted to be turning right onto the road below – a bit of creative route-making eventually got us where we needed to be, setting up tents in a dark and quiet campground optimistically hoping for a good sleep in the humidity.

Asia, bikepacking, bikes, friends, travel

From the road – down the northeast coast of Hokkaido

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A bit of a blur of a week down the northeast coast of Hokkaido, from which I’m having to use photos and Strava posts to remind me of – not the best sign.

Off the ferry, we weren’t in Wakkanai for long – a helpful wind pushing us around the bay in the late afternoon heat. We diverted up a steep sweaty climb on the Path of White Shells – road surface is coarsely crushed scallop shells, long bleached by the sun. More sika deer, but the highlight was the dusk views of Rishiri, Rebun and finally we could see Russia forty-odd kilometres away.

The northern tip of Japan, Cape Soya, was reached soon after. The tourist traps all closed for the night, the small numbers at the monument were quite bearable. We pottered for a bit before trying to find somewhere to camp. We found a great spot next to yet another artificial harbour – picnic shelter, power outlets, toilets and grass. The only disadvantage was the fishing boats going and coming from two in the morning – diesel thrums disturbing any remaining sleep for me.

A few days of about a hundred kilometres with few hills along a more prosperous looking coastline (compared to the northwest, fewer abandoned buildings, bit more going on, plenty of scallop processing plants and big dairy farms) commenced. Thankfully, while still hot, we didn’t have high humidity to deal with. I got a bit tired of seeing so much concrete in the sea – coastal protections, artificial harbours; unlike the northwest coast we did see, and stop at, some beaches which were pleasant.

The highlight for me was a friendly Japanese couple, Yumi and Ken, that we met at one of the free campsites. They are from Yokohama area and were traveling in their van for a week or so – Ken having been to Hokkaido forty-odd times. They seemed keen to meet foreigners and spoke English far better than we speak Japanese. They invited us to dinner and Ken cooked up a storm, we’d previously resupplied to cook for ourselves so there was plenty of food and Sapporo beer over a fun discussion. It was good being able to ask some of the questions of Japanese life and language we’d been accumulating.

There must have once been a train line running up the coast as we kept seeing signs – disconnected bits of rail trail, old rail corridors and later old steam locomotives on display. There were even a couple of places where you could stay cheaply in an old carriage that had had seats removed and hard sleeping platforms installed – unfortunately we didn’t find them at the end of any days. My curiosity of what the line was used for, when it closed and its general history was never satisfied – there were no helpful information boards.

One big section was rideable – twenty three asphalted kilometres into Abashiri (which is still serviced by Japan Rail, so no more rail trail for a while), it looked like it had been converted to trail decades ago and generally neglected. Nice to be off the road though. Previously we’d ridden a similarly old section of sealed rail trail, after bashing through a bit of gravel road overgrown with bamboo, which was deserted and delightful – until we got to a bridge that was closed and barricaded. A bit of backtracking was needed through the nice forest, thankfully we didn’t come across the bear that had left some droppings on the path some time earlier.

The Abashiri Prison Museum was an interesting historical glimpse into Hokkaido. I hadn’t realised that the island hadn’t really been set up for settling until late in the nineteenth century – and then mostly to ward off the “menace” of expanding Russia. Prisoners did a lot of road, and other, building quickly in demanding conditions. Having spent a decent period there, we didn’t have time to get out of the city so went to the nearby auto-camp, Tent-o-rando, to find the campsites were “full” – so we opted for a small chalet for the night. The ride off the hill the next day was great – first a very impressive playground to explore, then a fun route of gravel back roads through forest and farms before a long stretch of rollers through cropping land.

Lunch in Shiri near the railway station showed a town that didn’t look so neglected, which was a nice change. The heat ramped up again that afternoon as we headed back to the coast on the nastiest section of highway we’ve encountered – no shoulder and the edge of the lane was in very poor condition. Thankfully drivers remain courteous. Stopping at vending machines for a cold drink, we found a delightfully retro coffee shop run by two senior women. Photos of the pack of ice, that comes down from a Russian river, to block in the harbour in winter were shown. The closest we got were the ice cold towels provided to cool us. I was interested in a cabinet of classic Japanese cameras, but bemused by the Colt 45 and 9 mm pistols sitting on the bottom shelf.

A couple of waterfalls to see and tunnels to negotiate and we were in Utoro, our gateway to Shiretoko National Park before the forecast rain arrived. While I posted another kilogram of unneeded gear home, Rachel and Orlaith were checking into the campground and being told of trail closures due to a hiker having been dragged into the forest by a bear – eek.

Photo dump still here.

Asia, bikepacking, bikes, hiking, national park, travel

From the road – Rishiri and Rebun Islands

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Easily the highlight of Japan so far – still close to the coast but we found some hills.

The expected rain certainly arrived the morning we got on the ferry in Wakkanai bound for Rishiri. An uneventful voyage over on a pretty empty, larger than expected, boat. We rode an hour or so to the north of the island and the main town, imaginatively Rishiri Town, on a mixture of the main ring road (quiet) and a cycle path (even quieter).

The first campground we checked was deserted and had no views, being inland a bit and surrounded by trees. We decided to check another down on the point near the harbour, lighthouse and onsen. Much better with views, close to town facilities and a few others were camping. Had good tea and coffee in a delightfully retro coffee house before coming back to the campground. Nice sunset, but Mt Rishiri that dominates the island remained capped in cloud.

Up early on Saturday, not to decamp as normal, but to ride 16 km to the trailhead of the Mt Rishiri track. We’d climbed a couple of hundred metres on the bikes, so that meant we were already drenched in sweat early in the morning and there was only 1500 m left to climb on foot. It started off through nice forest, mostly spruce I think. As that thinned, the track steepened and started to get busier. Close as the atmosphere was, there was the odd rain shower too – enough to put jackets on, to really make sure we stayed drenched in sweat.

Occasionally there were glimpses through the foliage and clouds of the summit and ridges above us, and back down to the coast. But mostly we walked in cloud admiring the immediate scenery of foliage, rocky track that must take quite some maintenance and some impressive butterflies. The trail got really busy with people both ascending and descending as we neared the top. The rain resumed just before the summit, so we waited around a bit before heading up to admire the clouds and take a few photos.

As expected, descending 1500 m in six kilometres was hard on the legs – three days later and I still can’t go down stairs without restriction! Even a hot pool that night, after a fun dinner at a local bar watching our tempura being made in front of us, doesn’t seem to have helped much. Having enjoyed island life so much, which is an odd thing to say as Hokkaido is itself an island, we started to contemplate taking an extra day away from the mainland and seeing what is on Rebun Island to the north.

Sunday brought a leisurely forty kilometre ride around Rishiri. Initially it looked like this would have been the day to climb the mountain, as we could finally see the summit – but it soon clouded over for the day. The highlight of riding around the island was stopping to watch and question a local group (probably a family) in a small garage processing hundreds of sea urchins, from that morning’s catch. We got to sample some too, raw they were salty with a hint of sweetness – yum, provided the texture didn’t put one off!

The best part of the riding was saved for the last five kilometres into Rishirifuji (the main ferry terminal on the island is here). We climbed into the forest above the coast on what felt like an old narrow gauge railway – but I can’t imagine why there was ever such a thing on the island with an easy coastal road. The views of the mountain and out over the coast to the sea were excellent, and the bridges across deep gorges equally so. We made it in plenty of time to get an earlier ferry than we’d planned.

A much shorter voyage this time, and not so popular – there were almost as many bikes and motorcycles on board as cars.  Off the ferry, we bought groceries for overnight before setting off north for a campground. A small island, this didn’t take long. Having made camp, there was plenty of time before sunset for a wee bimble.

A little bit of a climb after a short ride to Cape Sukoton, a small island just off there and generally interesting rocks. On the return we took some back roads to view different bays and coves. Unfortunately I missed the best cove when I sailed down a hill while the others were investigating something off to the side. Oh well, I could get dinner started.

Just as we were leaving Monday morning, we heard some kiwi accents. Turns out it was Rob and Haidee – the people behind the Hokkaido Wilds website that we have been using for route ideas. Great to chat and learn a bit more of the island and their adventures living in Japan – they’d just come off the water, having been kayaking since two in the morning as part of their circumnavigation of Rebun.

We’d seen some walking routes advertised around the island, so thought we’d give the forest one down the centre of the island a go on our leisurely way back to the ferry. It turned out to be the riding highlight of the first two weeks, and counting, in Hokkaido. A steeply climbing barely used double track, it was thankfully shaded by forest for the main part of the ascent. Still, it was hot and humid. As we approached the ridge, the forest gave way to tall bamboo and views to the coast, and Rishiri, were there. The bamboo covering of the hills still reminds me of tea growing in East Africa – beautiful.

Stopping often for views, sadly the biggest section of off pavement of the trip so far (less than ten kilometres :/ ) was over (more, please!). We dropped to a new 1500 m tunnel through to a small settlement (seems excessive use of such a tunnel) on the west coast. Pleasingly it was very cool underground. We pottered around the small section of coast looking at some impressive and photogenic rocks, and dipped in the warm sea.

Back through the tunnel, we still had plenty of time to ride the extent of the roads south. I was pleased to finally see some colourful houses! Not on the scale of Mongolian brilliance, but after ten days in Hokkaido it was exciting. A long lunch back near the ferry terminal and we were on our way back to Wakkanai. Goodbye to two great little islands – easily the highlight of the first two weeks in Hokkaido.

Photo dump here.