Up early again as far too hot to stay in tents. As we were packing up, we were interested to see a couple of sea kayakers setting up camp at this time of the morning. To our surprise it was Rob and Haidee out adventuring, as they do often – their site documenting their travels seems the biggest English language resource online for such things in Hokkaido. We had already been using the bike section of the website extensively. Great to hear a couple of Kiwi accents and hear firsthand a little about their time living and exploring in Hokkaido.
Back south along the east coast for a bit (Rachel’s photo).
The first of a lot of kelp we saw drying today.
A good example of a tsunami escape staircase, don’t remember there being a lot of houses or people around here though.
One of the longer gallerias we saw and rode through.
Halfway down the island we turned inland and found a delightful forest road that gave us views from the centre of the island to the west coast and over the Sea of Japan. Steep to start with, that section was partly shaded – particularly welcome in the heat. Along the ridge the views really opened up and there were frequent stops. This short section of trail off sealed roads was my favourite section of riding so far in Japan, and remains a highlight.
To get down to the very near west coast, we had to drop steeply to the edge of Rebun town, on the east coast, and go back west through a new tunnel – this at least wonderfully cool and quiet. With time up our sleeves before the ferry back to Wakkanai, we pottered around the coast – a short dip, a short walk to a cleft in the rocks and then a little ride south to look at rocks that don’t look like the things they’re named after.
(Rachel’s photo)
Not a cat.
(Rachel’s photo)
A popular spot, hadn’t seen so many people in one place on these islands.
Back through the tunnel, alarming to be passed by the high-pitched whine of this scooter.
Still some time until the ferry arrived, why not go to the end of the island’s roads to the south? This was mostly through more down-on-their-heels coastal villages.
Back to join the motorbikes.
Bit busier than last time (Rachel’s photo).
So it was goodbye to the little island of Rebun – a very enjoyable day we had there. We’d started to enjoy the carpeted floor areas that were set up for sitting and lying down – no shoes; good for a bit of stretching, napping and general lounging around. Back to Hokkaido we went to ride to the northernmost point of that island.
Around Wakkanai’s port again.
Heading out east, the coastal road (very flat) curved around to the north to put the wind directly behind us – very easy riding. Didn’t look like there were going to be many options at Cape Soya, so a stock-up at the last Seicomart was in order.
Funny, coming from the kiwifruit capital of the world, to see them right at the top of Japan. Would realise during the trip that Zespri is the NZ brand that one sees most in Japan.
The stock, and low cost, of RTDs (ready-to-drink alcoholic drinks in NZ vernacular) in konbinis was always alarming; of the few I tried, I didn’t find a gin-based one I really liked. Nice change at the end of a hot day though, as a contrast to all the soft drinks.
Almost at Cape Soya, someone had found a diversion up the Path of White Shells. A very steep old road made up of crushed sea shells. Bathed again in sweat to end the day.
Very much crushed shells; at least some use for the piles we’d see at various processing plants.
Good views from the top of the three Rs – Rishiri, Rebun and Russia (Sakhalin Island).
Sakhalin Island in the distance.
Rishiri to the left, Rebun on the right (Rachel’s photo).
(Rachel’s photo)
Back on the coastal road for the last twenty minutes to the cape, in time for sunset. As Rachel mused, more land of the setting sun than rising sun for us – rather missing summer clock adjustment.
We found a good park to make camp in near the port – toilet block, water and even a picnic table for cooking dinner on.
The little bridge to the shrine is still bigger than the shrine.
Earlier we’d noticed small boats returning, wondering what their catch was.
Stopping at this garage on the side of the main road, we found out as we watched this family processing the morning’s haul.
Quite the hive of industry on a Sunday morning. But not so busy that we didn’t try to communicate and find out what each other was doing.
Sea urchins, uni – spiky!
Very tasty too, can see why they’re a delicacy – both from the work involved and the taste.
Off we continued on the very quiet road, the peak now starting to cloud over.
But there were plenty of big butterflies and irises to catch the eye. Expensive scallops cooked in the shell satisfied the taste buds too.
Not a better day to climb the mountain.
Rachel’s photo as we headed up the east coast, pretty sure we’d make the ferry in time.
Nice cycle trail through forest as we approached port, over those bridges spied each of the previous two days.
Ferry docking, Rebun on the horizon.
With plenty of time to spare, Orlaith and Rachel went and climbed this – my legs were not interested after Mt Rishiri descent.
Never found out if the takeout was that good.
Those bridges again; still not completely sure how such bridges became part of a cycle trail. Some narrow gauge railway (but why would there be one here?) vibes in part, but I can’t find anything about the history of them.
Goodbye Rishiri – a fun island stay, pity we didn’t quite get the views for the price my legs paid on the hike descent!
Was not a busy sailing.
Yet another island it turned out!
And some impressive cliffs.
Old fields fading away, another sign these places used to support far more people than nowadays.
Hopefully as charming as this.
Very easy going to start.
Starting to steepen and become less paved.
Beautiful forest lower – spruces, various pines, silver birch were some of the trees we recognised.
Soon out of the forest, confirmation unfortunately that the cloud had rolled in.
It was easy to see just how much water must come down this track; the level of upkeep done to keep it serviceable obvious and impressive (Rachel’s photo).
Occasional glimpses of the top possible.
As the vegetation got shorter, it and the heat started to remind me of being in tea fields.
Three-quarters of the way up there was some respite from the otherwise relentless climbing – my legs were not looking forward to the descent.
It still looks a fair way off.
Back in the mist.
Plastic pipes filled with rocks made for an interesting staircase and erosion control option on this particularly steep section.
Although they started to feel like they would be ideal for people twice as tall as us.
Greeted by rain near the summit shrine.
Made it (two hours and twenty); we didn’t stick around for long on account of rain and no view, alas (Orlaith’s photo).
Curious number of boat propellors lugged up here.
Ferry leaving for Rebun, as we would tomorrow.
Rebun, not so far away as Hokkaido; spot the ferry.
That rather distinctive bridge that we saw yesterday, and would ride over tomorrow.
These cicadas were unbelievably loud; if I’d have had ear plugs on me, I’d have used them.
Back in the forest; legs jelly-like by now.
Still can’t see the top as we biked back to camp, after an ice cream at a konbini.
There it is.
Still a bit of the afternoon left; there may have been some swimming in the fishing cove – but not for me, onsen later on was most welcome.
Dinner at an izakaya, where we sat at the bar watching the action.
Happy with the tempura, and to be sitting down (Rachel’s photo).
Nice to see the lanterns lit tonight…
and a big moon come to join us, mountain finally clear of cloud.
Not a lot to see in the cloud (there’s a mountain in there somewhere, we found later that bridge is part of a bike trail), but the rain eased through the afternoon.
Ferry was not packed.
Is it more joyful with the liquor?
Still, no mountain.
Fortunately for her, she wasn’t standing any closer.
That’s a well-fed bird, seems to prey on children.
Magpies and cyclist conflict seems to be universal.
Tried not to take this personally.
Occasionally we got close to some really nice forest, but the trail stayed out.
Waiting for the rain to go while inside the shelter.
The lanterns helped to brighten what had been a fairly bleak, but eventually brightening, day.
The mountain still capped, various views of the lighthouse would have to do as dusk approached.