Sado West

Enjoyed not having to decamp in the morning and heading off for the day riding around the west part of Sado unloaded. Felt a bit flat riding into the wind up the coast, but not too bad and this was made up for by the wind being behind us on the return to camp. A lumpy day, somehow a thousand metres of climbing despite only once getting slightly a hundred metres above the Sea of Japan.

Brown board and batten houses strong on this side of the island too.

We happened upon what was once the largest gold mine in Japan, plenty of ruins of the processing plants being slowly overgrown to wander around and wonder at the scale and process engineering involved.

A flat section along various coastal sights, not all of which I could figure out.

Former loading facility?

Ominous, but hopefully not relevant today.

Biggest climb of the day, and some interesting civil engineering to admire.

Angry birds as a tool to keep people out of construction zones?

Patches of rice growing, as expected, started to see it out drying.

None of these decaying bridges collapsed under us, thankfully.

Heading for the northern tip of the island, next photo is climbing the low point in centre of photo.

Over to the tip of the eastern section of the island – where we rode the previous afternoon.

Pillar boxes like these an occasional sight.

Concrete sea defences still multiplying.

Down the plains connecting the two hilly sides of the island with that kind wind to find that most every rice farmer in the area was queuing to deliver their harvest.

Line of kei trucks amusingly dwarfed by the silos. How many truck loads does it take to fill a single silo?

Back early enough to enjoy a quiet onsen at the hotel adjoining the campground, very nice leisurely unloaded day.

Sado East

Still able to roll out the door after another big hotel buffet breakfast, it was not far to go to the ferry terminal. We boarded the largest ferry we’d been on yet for our longest crossing to another island – Sado.

Again, very well secured.

Got to board first, and disembark first too.

More laying around for the voyage, good time to try and stretch some of the sore muscles.

Ready for Island #6, after a lumpy crossing.

Certainly bigger than all the other ferries.

Riding by noon, we had the afternoon around the north of the east shore of the island – before crossing back west over some hills to the central plains. The island looked prosperous and I saw none of the abandoned buildings that we’d become used to during our first seven weeks in Japan.

The northern tip of the eastern side of Sado.

The western side of the island extends further north.

(Rachel’s photo.)

Small islands like this close to shore usually have a shrine – this no exception. The arch under the island different though.

The predominant house style was brown board and batten.

More board and batten, with bonus onions drying. (Rachel’s photo.)

(Rachel’s photo.)

This was a great campsite, but too early in the day and Thomas wasn’t carrying camping gear.

Just about to discover a guy escaped from the city selling tasty donuts out a window of his house. (Rachel’s photo.)

Certainly worth stopping for.

A pleasant 300-odd metre climb took us through mostly forested land, with some rice fields and attempts at erosion control to then drop to the plains.

These were differnt statues to what we were used to seeing at temples.

Certainly were a lot of them.

The sea was a lot calmer when we came to check-in to the campground, conveniently next door to the hotel-onsen that Thomas was staying in.

Tasty dinner that night at a Taiwanese restaurant – little bit more spice than typical Japanese fare.

Niigata Rest Day

A much appreciated rest day spent eating and leisurely wandering around central Niigata between drizzly showers.

Large hotel breakfast buffet to start – fairly bland in a photo, but thankfully better than the colours suggest.

The station was, of course, huge with all manner of shops and restaurants around. Tasty ramen for lunch and I spent far too long being dazzled and overwhelmed by the multiple floors of electronics and appliances of the Bic Camera store.

Still time to spot new covers.

We met Thomas, Rachel’s brother, and his bike off the shinkansen from Tokyo late in the afternoon; unsurprisingly found an Irish bar for a pint. Couldn’t stay for long there as it was booked to capacity for a championship game – the crowds coming out in colours to support their teams.

A small upstairs restaurant provided a feast of Nepalese curry and the chance for the siblings to catch up, and for us all to discuss the weekend’s riding plan – which would help work off the excessive amount of food. The starters and sides were probably enough, considering we’d not been on our bikes that day:

Thomas also sporting an excellent streamlined hairstyle. (Rachel’s photo.)

Spot the Berry.

Was more that full after all that!

Nishiaizu to Niigata

Packed up early, before the repeat fireworks display, and up to a different restaurant in the hotel for breakfast.

Milk vending machine – another reason we didn’t venture into town for supplies, could have our standard tea.

The same charming elderly woman from last night was in this restaurant, she was a bit taken aback when Rachel ordered two pieces of toast.

We soon worked out why; an inch thick was more bread than Rachel could stomach.

Out into the mist, through small forested hills and along some tranquil valleys.

Buckwheat fields.

Still admiring the grain stores, and ornamental trees.

The narrow wheels on these tractors always intrigued me – we saw plenty.

The day brightened as we crossed into a new prefecture; mostly we were by the highway, but occasionally found alternatives that provided us with diversions in the form of various temples and the largest cypress trees in Japan – apparently up to 1400 years old.

Wooden, unadorned temples and these tesselated retaining wall bricks always catch my eye.

In the small town of Aga, a visitor centre/museum had plenty of local crafts and tried to explain the tradition of the fox fire wedding.

It’s just as well I resisted buying cool local pottery early on, I’d have been towing a heavy and fragile trailer load.

Another common sight – baskets at tables for putting one’s bag, various items in.

Down the valley to the coast we continued.

After a long tunnel with no path separating us from traffic, we sought an alternative to the next tunnel – the old road, with its own tunnel. It started out well enough, despite being closed.

Then the vegetation started closing in over the old road.

Soon it was decidedly boggy under foot, there was some carrying and mostly I was breaking trail through the thick, yellow sticky webs we’d found elsewhere. I was soon covered in them, and their inhabitants. Rejoining the road was so close, so it didn’t make sense to turn around and go back through the same mess.

One last obstacle to get back to the road, through the side of a galleria.

A quick ride through what remained to get back out in the open and start dewebbing.

I soon had all the spiders off me, quickly pulled a leech (!) off my leg before it became too attached and settled for removing most of the webs. Bit more adventure than we bargained on.

Nope, didn’t work this ark out.

Out of the hills for the last thirty kilometres to the centre of Niigata – the largest city on the west coast of Honshu. Predominantly we rode on stop banks through extensive rice fields, harvest being in full swing.

Checking into a hotel, we had a whole day off in front of us, as Thomas was not due to arrive until the following evening. I was well pleased with this, as we’d not had a rest day for well over a month.

International themed burgers for dinner – a rare day where we didn’t eat rice or noodles (nor muesli for breakfast, but that was an us thing not a Japan thing).

Bit different to our normal night views.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.