Category Archives: city

Ise

A morning to linger in our refuge from last night’s downpour. Waiting for things to dry out a bit, both our clothes and the outside world, it seems we had time to make French toast.

Nice change from camp museli and yoghurt.

It sounded like Ise was quite a historic town with enough to keep us busy on a rainy day – so we booked a hostel in the centre, so that we could walk, rather than lug loaded bikes, around in the rain. Eventually we got outside and took an indirect route to the hostel – first heading for the coast and one of the most sacred sites of Shintu.

But I spied a big woodworking workshop on the way, so got a bit distracted.

Covers showing the signs of the continuing rain.

There seemed to be some large formal event going on here,

but mostly I liked the trees.

We found the sacred wedded rocks,

joined by a hand-woven ten centimetre rope.

Frogs seemed to be a common theme among many of the numerous shrines.

Giant clam shells!

Along the sea wall we turned and rode for city centre, eventually having to negotiate some large tsunami-blocking gates to get off it and head through the suburbs a damp and measly six kilometres to the hostel in the historic part of the the city, another Kawasaki.

Starting in the sixteenth century, due to its useful location on both land and sea routes, the area became an important trading location – having the sacred shrine of Ise Jungu in town also helped. Becoming “Ise’s kitchen”, rice, sugar, salt, liquor were the main foodstuffs traded. Pleasingly, a lot of the old trading warehouses and premises along the Setagawa river still stand, an enjoyable outing – especially looking at the various embellishments on the tile roofs.

Our hostel as a starter for ten.

Ise is also famous for its udon dishes; once again we found a restaurant (somewhat stuck in the Showa era, as often) run by an elderly couple and were not disappointed.

Our wanderings in the drizzle continued.

Not so old, but rusted out corrugated steel…

Again.

Away from the Kawasaki area of town, things looked a little drab.

We made our way to the Ise Jungu area. No cameras, or even walking through, allowed at the main buildings – so a more hushed and serene – a nice change.

At the museum, in the same general area, we happened across a large crowd watching an enthusiastic drumming routine  – somewhat invigorating on a fairly low energy day.

Unsure if this is a stage and if so, how performers get to it with dry feet.

After some time chilling at the hostel, we headed out for dinner. Rachel, being far more versed in Japanese dishes from her multiple previous visits, wanted a good okonomiyaki meal. Having little idea what that was, I was happy to go along and find out. We ended up in a small otherwise deserted restaurant in a small otherwise deserted alley.

There were some good signs though.

Return of the tall, faded pink, coin phone.

A slightly modernised version of the typical menu display.

Turns out okonomiyaki is a savoury pancake dish cooked on the hot plate set in the table – very tasty and you get a little cooking show too.

Nice way to end a quiet day of sightseeing and little riding.

Around Tokyo – Hakone

A day trip out of the city to Lake Hakone for our last day around Tokyo.

First standard trains, well after the morning rush.

Then onto a funicular – the second steepest in the world, it climbs over 200 m in 1.2 kilometres and at times there is three metres difference in height between the ends of the train.

Watching point-and-call in action, as well as the rails.

Three stations between the termini give somewhere for trains to pass.

There were three switchbacks to help the train zig-zag up, and down, the steep hill – the train stops and the driver and conductor walk to the other end of the train.

After all that excitement, it was time for lunch at an excellent gyoza restaurant – which had a large mobile collection.

Replenished,  some pleasant strolling around the edge of Lake Hakone. Some curious oldish boats, interesting trees, no views of Mt Fuji due to cloud and an old customs checkpoint.

Flashbacks to Paparoa Track rides and its goblin forest.

Back home (did finally catch glimpses of Fuji, at dusk from a train), grabbing far too many meals from the supermarket on the way, for dinner and preparing to leave the following day.

Goodbye and thanks to Thomas, Keiko and Leila for the stay in their home, and the many outings.

Excellent little introduction to Tokyo, despite fighting off whatever virus I’d picked up – thankfully I was on the mend and didn’t pass it on to our hosts. Time to head back to Mastumoto and our bikes!

I was unreasonably pleased to get a tea bag coaster.

Around Tokyo – Shinjuku, Akihabra, Ginza, Shibuya

Another big walking day out – this time more central Tokyo. Hot again, 25,000+ steps, count-lost trains and so many people. I was on the mend by now, so no naps in parks; we seemed to be on the go all day – riding loaded bikes a hundred kilometres is possibly easier. Excellent day seeing some Tokyo sights, people watching, some interesting architecture and even some peaceful parks.

Quiet in the suburbs mid Sunday morning.

Into Shinjuku Park after the busyness outside.

Restorative ramen and broth for lunch, watched it made in front of us.

Into Akihabara – famous for electronics and manga.

Streets closed to traffic on a Sunday, very pleasant.

Huge lotus pond in Ueno Park, nice to walk beside.

Seems I still had a thing for finding old pillar boxes.

Heading into Akakusa to see the staggeringly popular Sensoji Temple, things got a little crowded.

Trying to sneak down the back of a long alley of stalls.

Bemused by these guys hanging around on roofs. Not quite the strange women lying in ponds handing out swords that we’d not seen earlier.

Loved this patterning and the texture.

Into Ginza District – the heart of corporate Japan.

As Oji headquarters was just around the corner I had to pay a brief visit, having heard of it off and on for the last ten years through various stints of employment at one of their NZ companies.

Just as well it was Sunday, I was hardly dressed appropriately.

We headed for Tokyo Tower to meet Keiko and Leila, finding more interesting buildings on the way.

Going to the black ring of the observation deck, on an elevator thankfully.

Tiring a bit by now, I didn’t have high expectations – but the fascinating views of bits of the city, and the city as a whole topped the day’s sightseeing off wonderfully; certainly a highlight of the day, as it gave way to night.

With the sky dark, an animated Halloween (still a month away) film played all around the deck’s windows. Dancing pumpkins anyone? More impressive, and entertaining, than expected.

Off to Shibuya to meet Amelia, Rachel’s elder niece, for a family (plus-me) dinner.

Not fitting in, in many ways (Rachel’s photo).

We just had to go through Shibuya Scramble Crossing on our way, purported to be the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world. I’d believe that.

Surprised to hear, and then see, a convoy of go-karts. All a bit Mario Bros, unsure how they are legal or if we’d slipped into another world.

Another exceptional dinner out to top off a long, fascinating and worthwhile day.

Around Tokyo – Enoshima, Kamakura, Kawazaki

Out of Koji on the train for Tokyo – successfully changed at Hachioji to meet Thomas at Machida. The day still a haze of fever, tiredness, runny nose, more trains and walking a lot in the heat. First stop Enoshima Beach – very popular for surfing (I struggled to see why) and bathing.

Many rusted cruisers with surfboard carriers mounted on the side.

Back to tsunami escape platforms, although this one is pretty short so maybe it’s something else?

Sand bathing anyone? Buried up to one’s neck and left to sit there soaking in the warmth? I did not understand the appeal. Admittedly it made more sense than surfing in those conditions.

Another board carrier, trailer might be picking litter (unlikely in Japan) or grooming the sand (more likely), big corporate function and over to Enoshima Island – we were walking towards it.

By the time we got to the island, I was exhausted so I left Rachel and Thomas to climb through the crowds while I went and tried to nap on some grass in the relative quiet. Eventually we returned to the mainland and caught a small train to Kamakura – a very popular spot, and where Thomas and Keiko were wed.

Another wedding in progress, popular spot – could see a little of what was going on.

Impressive structure and colours.

Also a popular spot to post prayers.

Or fold them up.

With some time before meeting some of Thomas’s immediate and extended family, we trained to the waterside in Kawazaki – enjoying lounging on the grass watching the world go by as it cooled a bit. Most pleasant.

(Rachel’s photo.)

Fortunately, in my impaired state, I didn’t have to come to grips with the Tokyo transportation network – just try to keep up. Apparently it’s very logical and well laid out, but I barely gave it a thought.

We met Keiko and Leila, and Uji (Keiko’s brother) and Kazumi for a fun monjayaki dinner – a more liquid batter version of okonmiyaki, cooked in front of us; plenty of tasty seafood too. My attempts to not be terrible company and not spread whatever I had around were successful enough – only Rachel later caught whatever I had, inevitably but not as badly.

(Rachel’s photo.)

Eventually more walking and trains back to Thomas and Keiko’s home. Thomas had logged 26,000 steps for the day – so not a particularly recuperative time keeping up, but I wasn’t going to miss finally being in Tokyo!