Responsible in part for a last-minute addition being needed to the exciting collection of short (<500km) routes as Bikepacking Aotearoa goes to print, the least I could do was turn up for the corresponding scouting ride. I was very keen for a weekend away riding not too far with a small group. Not least because, while the route seems to have been picked from staring at a map, this particular Ridge Road had independently been highly recommended.

The rest of the crew drove north the morning of, while I managed to squeeze in being a Park Run tourist. I’m still to rediscover the running pace I had last summer, but it was a good hit out and I didn’t suffer too much over the weekend for it. Loop direction changing last minute (I suspect due to the forecast winds, I never really asked or minded), I had a little further to go after hastily showering and packing food and clothes on my bike. With accommodation booked in Apiti, it was a complete luxury to not have to carry camping gear.

Meeting at the excellent new(ish) footbridge over the Manawatu, we were soon off skirting around the southern edges of the city into a fair breeze. None too inspiring following what’s left of the Mangaone Stream (which really could do with planting out in natives), it did at least have the advantages of being traffic free and taking me places I’ve not been. We missed a turn, backtracked a mile or so and rejoined our route to find a small collection of people (and a lovely Welsh spaniel) looking for, as we learned later, an older man missing for a fair few weeks. A series of left and right turns took us out of town through the slanted grid to Bunnythorpe and morning tea – hot chips went down a treat under the cloudy skies and strengthening wind.

Another ten clicks was about our most-prolonged wind battling for the day, to where we’d meet the rest of our cohorts at Colyton. Seems to be haymaking time around here, my hayfever not quite aggravated yet.

Suddenly, for us – not at the speed these move, much older tractors.

Strangely, one originally all the way from Puketitiri – a remote rural area in Hawke’s Bay which I’d ridden through but one week before.

Curious style to this church in Colyton.

A mere thirty-five kilometres into the route is early enough for lunch right? Seemed so, with more new riding buddies to meet and calories to be replaced we set to the task at the wonderful little shipping container-housed Ginger Bird Cafe. Eating plenty, we also loaded up on many slices for the few miles ahead before setting off for Apiti. The norwester stiffened some, but we were mostly riding across it so it was not too onerous.

Found the gravel, the traffic continuing to disappear really not all that far from the city.

A brief section heading east, the climbing continuing to the anticipated Ridge Road.

More haymaking did set my eyes and nose off, joining Ridge Road was a worthy time for another snack break. It’s hard work trying to get through the supplies at an optimal rate. There began almost thirty kilometres of gravel gradually climbing up to the trig point of 550 m. The wind tended more westerly as, while very strong, it was seldom a struggle to ride into. The surface, I thought, was mostly good and we saw but one vehicle for nigh on three hours. With few breaks in the heavy cloud, the views never opened up but there was still plenty of terrain to be seen in the midground.

Looking south towards the Tararuas.

We never saw more of the Ruahines, capped with thick gloom all day.

Waiting at the top of the climb, the girth of this macrocarpa impressed.

Not unpleasant.

One last climb for the day.

A quick snap of Apiti while barrelling down to the day’s end.

The Last Church – the accommodation was in the old Sunday school building at the rear, the bikes on pew warming duty overnight.

The china tea service was promptly found and put to good use, as the unloading of all the food we’d packed in began.

As great as the mix of history, large indoor palms, industrial plumbing fittings, books, umbrella lightshades, native bird depictions and various kiwiana were, the night will be remembered for the great company and the bewilderingly delicious and large meal assembled from everyone carting in various fresh items. That and the loud drum and bass hitting the building from across the field and what was probably the biggest party in all of Apiti for the year; somehow everyone slept well.

The catchphrase while preparing all this was “well, I’m not carrying it back”.

I certainly wasn’t going to let any go to waste, so reverting to a role familiar from a far off land six years ago I dutifully polished it off. I’ve got to do more bikepacking trips like this!

All Tour Aotearoa veterans (some multiple), and one the chief architect, much of the ride back on Sunday was familiar to us. Supposedly, I only vaguely remembered the route out of Apiti – I guess as it was the end of a long and spectacular day almost four years ago. Some variation was added by crossing to the true left of the Pohangina valley on a short stretch of road that is purported to have an average of seven vehicles per day – we saw one. Heading back to the flat lands of Palmerston North, we had a net altitude drop over the eighty kilometres – there was some modest climbing, but it was always followed by a bigger downhill.

A long sealed downhill heading for the bridge over the river.

Entry level, both to the housing market and if one wanted to get through the bushes.

Who were the people that lived and farmed here? Was there much of a community all those years ago? How long since anyone lived here, worked those discs?

With time up our sleeve, the short Kahikatea Walkway drew us in for a pleasant loop where we admired a rare patch of native bush in these parts and the namesake trees. There may have been renewed efforts to demolish a large, dense slab of gingery walnut and caramel goodness. No point in taking food back to the cars.

Back at the bikes, the southerly change came through and open heavens dumped rain on us for ten minutes – we were at least spared the hail that fell in town.

Having stumbled across the top of the old Branch Road on Saturday, the lower portion was worth briefly investigating – we didn’t see much, so will have to check it out properly another time.

With only twenty kilometres to go, the efforts to eat all the food stepped up with two more big stops. Bikes a wee bit lighter, we certainly were not for the damp, and then decidedly wet, ride into Palmerston North from the north. Is that trail ever enjoyable? With the big dog leg up to the highway, I’m unconvinced. Still, that can hardly dampen my thorough enjoyment of a relaxed biking weekend in rural Manawatu with excellent company, interesting riding, and I’ve probably said enough about the food already…