That morning was my turn for the slight gut upset – completing the set for us all having minor illnesses in Mongolia. None of them lasted long though, we got off lightly for a month travelling where we had to treat all our water and were eating all sorts of food different to what our bodies are used to.

Didn’t stop me eating breakfast, the same as what we had for dinner the previous night – but an even larger portion. Food = fuel.

Riding out of town was a fair bit of guess work of how to best negotiate various streams and bogs across the wide valley. Eventually we found a solid path, although I was soon off it trying to draw a vocal but harmless pack of dogs away from the others.

Spent a lot of the morning looking at this range with its intriguing outcrops.

Walking to begin.

Twas a draining day as we rode into a strong wind throughout, on the rockiest and slowest surface we’d yet had. It was becoming apparent why the first bikepacker we’d seen all trip had spent so long complaining about the route – and we weren’t even at the corrugated section that he saved most of his scorn for. Seemed mostly to be a case of someone who had been by themselves too long and just wanted to talk and talk, the surface setting him off.

The most amusing part of the strong headwind was the effect it had on the thousands of jumping insects (grasshoppers/crickets?). Sunning themselves on the track, they would jump away from us as we approached (itself a scene due to the numbers); unfortunately for them, and us, the wind was so strong they would immediately be blown into us and our bikes. Cue a few hours of being constantly thwacked by splattering insects; right in the face was the worst, keeping one’s mouth closed was heavily encouraged.

Just as I was really needing one, toilets appeared out of nowhere – along with a small collection of buildings and a basketball court. Rachel and Ian chatted to a farmer and his son. It sounded like some of the buildings are community buildings, including where the grazing land is managed, divvied up from.

The steepest climb of the day, very short – mercifully as I wasn’t exactly full of energy.

Over the rise, we did managed to find a lunch spot out of the wind. Nice to catch a breath, and watch the birds have fun in the wind.

The gradual climb continued to 2500 m, which would be our highest campsite of the trip – and my coldest, still sleeping on the ground. We enjoyed the evening watching the light change on the hills, as well as having visits from local dogs and later a herdsman on his horse – we shared tea and biscuits, but little conversation was possible. A tough day with a dodgy stomach and into the wind throughout, but we all got through ok – but still having a much higher opinion of Rachel and Ian’s route than the one we were on.

Unsurprisingly, in hindsight, leaving my favourite of all our Mongolian campsites led to another staggeringly beautiful ride – up another valley gently, a few more trees around, lush pasture for the herds of animals dotted around between corresponding ger camps.

A fair example of being spoilt for choice of smooth dirt tracks.

Animals, pens, gers, an occasional more permanent structure, small vehicles, water flowing through a green-grassed and tree-lined valley – about sums up riding through this area. Lush.

Ninety or so minutes in and starting to wonder which route we’d take out of this valley and into the next, we paused near a collection of buildings and gers. From far up on a hillside the farmer in this spot came down to meet us. Through the language barrier, we thought he was inviting us in to meet his family and see his ger – thankfully, that is what was going on. For over an hour we were plied with tasty food made from, mostly yak, milk – yoghurt, milk tea, clotted cream on bread (the best!) and some sweet curly treats (which I find far too moreish than is acceptable). All the while we tried to communicate, mostly through translation apps, and share details about each others’ lives – with limited success. Very enjoyable, and filling, hospitality – but we had a big day to get to Khangai, but an hour easily spared as the days were long.

Trying to make headway with translation apps.(Rachel’s photo.)

Farewell pic – another of Rachel’s.

Part of our discussions centred on our way out of the valley; as the valley split into multiple heads we turned right and were pleasantly surrounded by trees as things steepened and the day warmed. To our surprise the climb included a switchback! Certainly made the ascent slightly easier than just going straight up the hill.

Always much to look at.

Quite the marker at the top.

Walking around the ovoo keeping an eye on the approaching storm clouds.

The steep part of the descent was unusually rough, which would account for the strange lack of Priuses on this stretch. It wasn’t long before the rain caught up with us, so there are few photos of the next long flat stretch. However, it did stop raining for a nice lunch break with entertainment provided by a large group of horses coming to drink at the water below us.

We briefly rode along a much larger valley and headed for the sealed highway to cross the river at a bridge. Thankfully we soon left the busy road for another quiet dirt road. We’d now joined the bikepacking.com Khangai Mountains Traverse route, near the end but planning to ride it in reverse. Thirty kilometres of flat riding to town was done in passing showers and into a bit of wind.

Getting closer…

Welcome to Khangai?

Still enjoying the colourful buildings.

Our usual methods struggled to find anywhere to sleep inside, one amusing tentative encounter did provide an option – but it was a dive with few facilities, so camping out of town seemed a better idea. Serendipitously, the son of the owner at our dinner restaurant was home helping his mother for a bit. Having lived for some time in Australia, he now normally resided in Ulaan Baatar, he spoke English well and was very helpful. Between them, it was worked out that a friend had a spare ger we could stay in – score!

But first, dinner was most welcome – as was not cooking over a dirty petrol stove! And more of those sweet curly treats.

Chasing the motorbike through town to find our night’s accommodation.

A chance to dry things out in the evening sun. This seemed to be a new build section on the edge of town, an unusually tall fence.

Out the front gate – certainly the edge of town.

The family was building a new house, only slightly bigger than what I’ll finally get around to building this year – so I was interested.

Polystyrene insulation.

A little more insulation in the cladding over timber boards.

It rained, to some degree, all night – so breakfast and decamping in the wet, not the brightest start to the day. Rejoining the dirt road, the rain had reduced to a cooling drizzle for the four hundred metre climb. The dirt was slick, which made for amusing viewing of the reduced number of two wheel drive vehicles slipping and sliding up, and down, the hill.

Plenty to look at despite the grey cap on the morning.

At the pass we enjoyed hearing the tales of a trio (two Brits and an American) touring on hired Chinese motorcycles – many surmountable mechanical issues!

A lovely downhill to speed things up a bit. One of my rear rack bolts worked its way loose – to add to the annoying list of small gear failures; thankfully I had plenty of spares.

Standing stones and burial mounds – although burial is a misnomer, bodies left for the elements to reclaim them apparently.

Terrain levelling out again to cross another big valley floor.

Top of a wee climb, time for a rest.

Rest at top/meet another large family group on their Prius travels.

They were very interested in our trip, and wanted a lot of photos with us and bikes. Much fun again.

(Rachel’s photo.)

(Rachel’s photo.)

We were each given a large handful of this dried yoghurt snack. Teeth-destroyingly hard, I was snacking on this gift for the next two weeks. A little chunk of the slightly salty solid could only be consumed by slowly dissolving it in one’s mouth for ten to fifteen minutes. First time, I bit off far more than I could chew (it was impossible to chew any really) and struggled to with a large jagged hunk in my mouth for miles.

Impressive granite formations on the way down to the next river.

Excellent to have mine manager (when not hauling an impressive amount of dried food around northern Mongolia) Ian along to impart some of his rock knowledge.

Don’t think we’d ridden three hundred whatevers by this stage.

More rocks close to the river.

The town of Jargalant coming into view for a resupply.

On a days-long quest to find sunscreen lip balm (it’s amusing some of the small things we unexpectedly struggled to find), we found a pharmacy but with no success. But it did provide a memorable encounter when we started chatting to the owner’s son outside the store. Eleven years old, his command of the English language was impressive for having only learnt it watching YouTube on his mother’s phone. Impressive and amusing – with hints of an American accent and some unexpected turns of phrase. Regaling us with tales of the town’s nadaam festival (we’d just missed yet another one!), he was explaining how there was betting on the races. He was remarkably upbeat for someone earnestly proclaiming that he’d “gambled his life away” the day before!

Riding out of town, no bets on this horse versus bike match-up.

There was some signs of a tourist camp on the way out of town, but it wasn’t required – we had food and tents.

Up another valley we went.

Ten kilometres out of town we found a suitable place to camp – I think it was my favourite spot of the trip. Beautiful view, nice grass, a refreshing river to bathe and wash clothes in, plenty of animal and herding activity to watch, and useful trees to cook, sit and hang clothes on.

(Rachel’s photo.)

We woke to horses grazing just across the river. I woke to find my trusty air mattress was no longer so trusty – the first night away from large towns for a week or so not the best for the seam near the valve to split. Attempts to fix it over the next few days were futile; never mind, I was prepared for sleeping on the ground by the few Mongolian beds already experienced! I would come to miss the insulation but.

More big valleys to ride across on whichever dirt track we fancied, before the increasingly steep climb and descent to the next one. Still pretty busy with holiday traffic, but that’s relative – it was hardly a sealed highway, just busy for a dirt road.

Rare plane spotted.

Definitely needed a rest here after another steep climb.

We rerouted to drop down towards this lake, trying to get away from the main vehicle route.

Gave us a good lunch spot too.

Climbing away from the lake, nearing Shine-Ider.

A Prius approaching up what we found was quite a steep, loose climb (good fun down though!) – of course.

Much fun.

Shine-Ider, and hopefully ice cream, coming into view.

Still enjoying the colourful roofs.

A larger store than expected – I could have even got replacement shoes if the previous day’s mishap had not ended well. Hot and dry in the valley, we did find ice cream and, for the only time, had to carry a lot of water as we expected a dry campsite (somewhere).

Leaving town, we crossed the dry river bed and scooted away from the main road up a side valley.

The track was unusually rough and slow going, especially at the end of a pretty warm day, following power lines before turning off again to a campsite far enough off the road to be less noticeable, and quieter.

Again, we enjoyed camping amongst the wildflowers – there was also plenty of wild rhubarb around.

Ian and I took an after dinner stroll partway up the hills behind our tents. Looking back to where we’d come from.

Fascinating insects too to end another enjoyable day.