Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour – Day Three – Wairoa to Mahia Peninsula

Recovered easily well enough, another dawn start was quite leisurely. But first the famed Osler’s Bakery for breakfast and resupply – and the usual explaining to passersby what on earth we were doing. Off a short section of highway, we were soon on rural back roads and, for northern Hawke’s Bay, they were not stupidly hilly. In fact it was a very pleasant Sunday morning ride as we climbed gently up to and dropped into the Makaretu Stream valley. The gravel was kind and we saw more cattle on the road than we did vehicles. A few side roads passed and I noted again that they must be explored.

Following the easy gradient upstream, we passed these falls that remind me of the Rere Rockslide, in minature.

Past hilly farmland, the climb out of the valley took us over two hundred metres above the ocean before a delightful long run back to sea level. Three-quarters of an hour on flat and quiet highway later, it was starting to warm a little – well-timed for arriving at the historic Nuhaka General Store. Debbie and Emma arrived shortly after us and no-one was in a hurry to go anywhere – one by one we returned to the store to get morning ice creams and sit on the bench out front in the sun.

Leaving the highway just past the Morere Hot Springs, the first of the steep climbs for the day started. With an extensive native bush reserve on one side and plantation forest on the other – some of the time it was shaded, but mostly it was one of those steep climbs that doesn’t let up and was just generally hot. As we reminisced over this year’s wild and windy Great Southern Brevet, finally a particular corner was rounded and the views that instigated the inclusion of this road opened up before us. The Pacific, the isthmus, Mahia Peninsula and Hawke Bay right there dazzling in the sun, with a ribbon of gravel winding us down through the steep farmland towards them.

Pete and I slowed to take some photos before enjoying the long roll down to skirt Maungawhio Lagoon and embarking on the final section of the course – Mahia Peninsula. I remembered it was hilly, but as I was told later, I definitely saved the steepest, most brutal hills for last. Some pinch climbs were to be conquered across the northern edge of the peninsula. Multitudes of people were out enjoying the sun, warmth and water of the long weekend. We couldn’t pass up the last cafe on the course, so stopped for a while – learning about the spread of green cancer (“good” farmland being converted to forestry) in the area. We had seen a proliferation of Fifty Shades of Green signs over the last half of the course. I didn’t mention who I work for.

Leaving the holidaymakers behind, the road turned south down the middle of the peninsula. The climbs got no less steep, but plenty longer as the sun beat down. As we hit the base of the longest one, that would take us to the highest point of the day, I rode away from Pete. Nowhere to be seen, I carried on riding up and up before reaching the summit of the day. Sudden descents kept appearing, just to climb again as the road made its way south.

As the descents started to outnumber the climbs, I’d a bit of time reflecting on the end of my HBAT19. Only three months in the making, it had rather consumed that time with much poring over maps, plotting GPS routes, utterly fantastic scouting rides (those alone would have made it worthwhile), talking to landowners, trying to convince others that this was a good idea for a long weekend and generally organising. Definitely one of the highlights of the year, and my time in Hawke’s Bay thus far as it enabled much greater exploration and understanding of this rather hilly (it turns out) province that is currently home. Brilliant, I was quite pleased with how it had all worked out as I pedalled to the road end.

Debbie and Emma and their friends (who’d brought both Debbie’s and my car) were there, all encouragement, as I passed to complete the last few hundred metre dash across a bumpy surface to finish fittingly in a hilly, remote sheep paddock with big views across Hawke Bay.

Looking over the bay towards Napier.

Portland Island off the southern tip of the peninsula, Rocket Lab launch site is down there too.

Pete finished soon after, and after my brief moment alone, it was great to have him there as we’ve ridden a fair bit together over the last couple of years (having a similar pace, and predisposition to finding backcountry routes in the central North Island) and I’ve learnt much from him as far as bikepacking and route making goes. Returning to the cars, there were many stories to be shared as we stood around in the glorious warmth. The achievement of and pleasure with the weekend’s riding and sights were real; I was chuffed with completing the ride in quite a leisurely fashion and that the route was so enjoyed.

Later that day, we were able to catch up with Amanda as she climbed behind Morere heading for a finish that evening. Guy, who unfortunately scratched at Mohaka, kindly had us to stay at his holiday home – where we were welcomed and fed well. The following day, at Morere again, we caught up with the last riders on the course – Yvonne, Jan, Fay and Chris – who’d spent much of the weekend riding together and having a grand time. Their little bikepacking gang was down one as Dave had had to get back to Wellington, but they were all smiles – until someone mentioned Cricklewood Rd. They finished late that afternoon after the hills of Mahia – which I’m not going to apologise for as that stretch is stunningly beautiful. For the record, I think the last 180 km of the course is my favourite – everything from the top of the much-maligned Cricklewood Rd. But really, there are many highlights.

In all, nine of the thirteen starters finished – with Jane and Glen (apologies if my memory fails me there) only intending to ride part of the course in the time they had. It seemed the course, while definitely challenging for all was achievable – certainly a suitable short practice on North Island hills for those riding Tour Aotearoa next year. I’m pleased with the feedback and apparently I have to run it again – I’m already scheming how to incorporate some improvement options in. Thanks to all those that came along for the ride – whether literally or following online, the farmers that granted access to their land and all who supported. Until HBAT20…

One thought on “Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour – Day Three – Wairoa to Mahia Peninsula”

  1. Thanks again Brendan, it was an amazing 4 days spent on a great course with splendid people. See you next year.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *