With two people independently suggesting I alter the start of HBAT through a farm to a long stretch of gravel, I was certainly going to take a look. Andrew and I drove south through a frosty Sunday dawn to the south of Hawke’s Bay, leaving the car at a country school where it definitely had not warmed up.

Lumpy to start with, I was soon hoping for the climbs as whizzing down was decidedly chilly. Gravel appeared and we rode through a small herd grazing the verges – while now green, there’s still not a lot of feed around. Chatting to the farmer watching his stock, in what became a familiar routine, a few minutes in Andrew was recognised – despite having left the area fifty years ago. It was a very chatty day as everyone we met seemed to have some connection to my riding buddy.

Getting a bit higher, looking north.

Finally the climbing started in earnest and I began to warm; another dip must have been steep, making use of what I now know in some parts is called “traction seal”. Strange to have a name for those short patches of tarseal that appear on steep parts of gravel roads in the middle of nowhere. More farmers to chat to (no, I’ve not seen your lost heading dog – worth as much as my bike) including the one who was generously giving us access, and with no concerns of routing HBAT, through his land. Climb, climb and a little more; onto the farm track, pleasingly dry, a steeper gradient and then over the watershed to bomb past the airstrip.

Andrew heading for the airstrip; obviously a windy place, the breeze was light.

Through to Te Uri Rd, the sealed section was short before we reached the charming community hall and more gravel winding flatly and pleasantly for a few kilometres. That didn’t last as we rose towards the watershed again and headed back into Hawke’s Bay. The section through pine forest had been devoid of sun for some time and was sloppy, giving my bike and me a nice splatter effect for the small price of slightly less efficient pedalling.

Out in farmland again, the view opened up and we stole our first glance of the Pacific for the day.

The climbing continued a while longer.

Nearing the thirty kilometre mark, we’d already managed a thousand metres of climbing – and not too unpleasant it was either at a steady pace with plenty of rests. This paid off with twenty kilometres down, steep at first to get to the plains and more gradual as we followed the watercourses towards lunch. Getting closer to places Andrew’s family had more direct association with, ideas for looping further south and back north abounded – hopefully only a few weeks before those are explored.

Mangaorapa valley – we’d drop down and ride right to left, before following the Porangahau River through towards that glimpse of ocean.

Refuelling as ever at the wonderful Flotsam & Jetsam coffee cart (horse float really; I’m told the coffee is top-notch, but I’m taken by the home baking), was another opportunity for yarns in the sun of old times and old families of the area. Families of eighteen and twenty-one children!

Scouting of new routes done, we were to return to the car following some of last year’s route in reverse. It was perhaps a bit mad riding up the very hill that hair-raisingly dumped riders right into town – Andrew’s chain thought so as one of the side plates broke in two. That fixed, we were left to spin for half an hour to the ridge. I was going to leave this reverse bit out for the more sensible coastal and flat option; but no way, perish the though, the ridge riding and views were sublime. What’s another hill amongst all the others?

Dropping off the ridge, the gravel stretches and stretches.

Enough of Route 52 done, I saw my first newborn lambs of the year. I was a little perplexed by Andrew stopping behind me and running off into a field; turning and catching up, we were off for a bikepacking first more me – turning a sheep. I now know that ewes with multiple pregnancies can sometimes struggle to get back on their feet from lying down – and perish overnight. Sheep and multiple lambs saved, until next time it lies down in the sun, it wasn’t far back to the car – past dozens more newborn lambs out in the warm afternoon sun.

A stunner of a day, and that suggested route is definitely going in HBAT – it was fantastic. More remote, plenty of hills and rural views. In a sudden moment of inspiration, a scheme to change the start point struck me – more things to organise and ways to optimise this year’s route… A big thanks to Andrew for the contacts, riding company and chat; much kudos too – if I’m still riding up these sorts of hills when I’m knocking twice my current age, I’ll be well pleased and fortunate to be in such health.

Decidedly uncomfortable for the first half hour pre-dawn, I may have gone numb for the second as the relatively flat valley floor riding continued. After seven I warmed as the sky lightened and the hills started. But I then climbed into a layer of fog and was chilled again. The stars disappeared from view as the increasing light revealed what I already knew – it was downright frosty.

It was probably warmer among the mob of sheep waiting to lose their fleeces. Until they lost their fleeces.

The level of fog was stark as the sun rose and slowly crept down the hills opposite.

No stopping at the Tiniroto Tavern this time, far too early. Realising I’d not ridden Ruakaka Rd from the south, I thought I’d better if I want to put it in this year’s HBAT. Ruakaka is very good and there were no vehicles to be seen; the most activity I saw was some farm-kids feeding their horses. The climb back up to Tiniroto was not as big as I remembered from bombing down it in February, that aided me in getting to the sea-level outskirts of Gisborne by noon. I’m glad I’ve found a couple of gravel alternatives through this way; the sealed Tiniroto Road has become rather boring to me now.

The gas station at Manutuke was the lunch stop, and a disappointing one at that. One thing in the pie warmer, and I had to ask what it was. Turns out a BBC is a Beef, Bacon & Cheese Roll – a glorified sausage roll that may have, to look at it, been kept warm for the best part of a week. The friendly roaming dog didn’t even show interest in it. An hour of lazy, flat valley floor riding with the sun on my back, no wind and no traffic was an easy start to the afternoon – before the lifestyle blocks turned to sheep and beef hill country, and pines started to appear.

Back on gravel, it was a bit of a mess. Strangely, there were work crews out on a Saturday fixing up the road from logging truck damage. I had quite a chat to one of them, trying to explain and counter their disbelief as to why I was riding a loaded bike up there. Ignoring roadsigns of questionable legality (the gates were open after all), deeper into the forest I climbed.

Pleased and surprised, I found swathes of native bush on the eastern side of the road. There was no-one to be found and I had the place and views to share only with wood pigeons. Glimpses of Hawke Bay to the south on occasion had me looking toward Mahia, where I hoped I’d make it before I ran out of energy. Ticking along casually, I was well aware I’d not ridden a loaded bike for six months and I may be out of gas before expected.

Dropping, I popped out in the middle of a section of highway I can’t remember ever being on – bit odd considering it’s only a hundred kilometres from home. A short section of that to Wharerata took me past a lookout I’d heard much mention of.

Poverty Bay with Gisborne on the left, and Young Nicks Head in the centre.

Turning south, gravel ridge riding didn’t provide much in the way of views as it was mostly pine-lined. After ten kilometres, the road slid closer and closer to the Unformed moniker in Unformed Legal Road. With a little hike-a-bike around and over treefall, the fast-approaching sunset loomed larger in my mind. Out of the forestry and over a gate, I was into the farmland that would take me down to Mahanga.

My, where did all this mud come from?! Confronted with vast patches of it, suddenly I was going to be out well after dark. Oh well. However, it seems this is quite different to the wheel-binding mud of southern Hawke’s Bay. It was hardly slippery, and not at all sticky. Not having rained for a couple of days, when one couldn’t ride around it on the grass, it was negotiable. Slowed, but not too much, my crossing to the eastern (coastal) side of the hills was a continual balance of risk and reward – slow through the mud, or riding the narrow grass verge on the edge of the hill.

As the sun sunk, I was pleased to find myself riding with this guy again.

Off the ridge line, the mud lessened markedly and riding down the track quickened.

Close to the coast now, looking north of Gisborne.

Dropping down to Mahanga as the sun sets on Mahia Peninsula – I was pretty sure I’d make it across the isthmus just before dark.

Indeed I did, and mightily pleased I’d not be spending the rapidly cooling night in a ditchbound bivy bag. I was pretty had it, and was surprised to find myself more than a little queasy – it hadn’t been at all hot, yet my classic end-of-a-long day symptoms appeared. Thankfully they are easily overcome and I rested well.

Closing the loop back to my car was a far simpler affair – only eighty-odd kilometres, all of which I knew, much of it lovely gravel backroads. Rest seemed more important than dragging myself up a big climb as the sun rose, so I slept in a little and watched the sun rise over the lagoon. Climbing Tunanui Road didn’t seem as steep from the east; even so, I was a little disappointed the Nuhaka store wasn’t open at nine – an ice cream would have gone down well.

Hereheretau Rd however had a far steeper climb riding it in the reverse direction. No matter, it was conquered and the cruise down alongside the Makaretu was sublime and the climb out of the valley was really quite nice.

Strange to be back at the car around midday, there was plenty of time for eating, driving home and even cleaning the mud off my bike. Seemed somewhat indulgent, a waste of good fine winter riding weather. Another successful HBAT scouting trip done, this year’s route is slowly coming together and I always love riding the hills of northern Hawke’s Bay.

There was one section of Kopiko Aotearoa (the Cape to Cape ride that I was due to do, but ended up doing NITT instead) up near Wairoa that I’d never ridden. So I went up that way for the weekend to ride that, see how many Kopiki West to East riders I could find, ride a few other favourite gravel roads and do a bit of scouting for this year’s HBAT.

Leaving the house (where I’d been welcomed by friends of a friend with exceeding warmth and generosity) just before dawn, it was a warm enough start. The lights weren’t needed for long as a still day brightened.

Easy, flattish seal to start.

The Mangapoike, just before it flows into the Wairoa.

Nearing the turn-off, I’d be into those hills soon – new roads for me!

Up and over a little hill, I left Tiniroto Rd at Te Reinga – and promptly stopped to see the falls. The viewing platform could have been placed in a better position – perhaps where one can see the falls. No matter, I met my first KAers for the day and there started many episodes of stopping and chatting. The sealed road beside the Ruakituri River was pretty flat and easygoing. A perfect morning for cycling, no wind, warm but never hot or cold, no burning sunlight – it was excellent to be out; however, not the greatest for inspiring plenty of photo snapping.

Near the end of the seal, I spotted a little sign pointing KA riders in – a local farm had opened up their shearers’ quarters for accommodation, food and water. I checked it out, HBAT in mind, and managed to miss a passing shower. The light rain helped to dampen any dust on the gravel, I could see recently set deep bike tracks in the surface – the east to west riders didn’t have it so good up here.

A good climb up to four hundred metres had constant iterations one of my favourite bikepacking ponderings – “How does this road get out of this valley?” (catchy title, I know). Over the next couple of hours, there was a flurry of riders heading in the opposite direction – easily over a dozen. All were happy to stop, rest and chat – strangely they seemed more interested in what I was doing out there with little kit than answering my queries about their own adventures; perhaps after a week of explaining what they were doing, it was a welcome change to ask someone the same question. Or maybe I just like to talk about bike trips too much.

My obsession with seeing Panekiri Bluff from differing angles and distances continued. It’s so close here!

A long descent to Ohuka ensued before more chatting and onto seal – steep! It tried to rain again, but that was more cooling than wetting and most welcome. It really was a steep descent down to Lake Rd, I now appreciate a little all the comments I’d seen in the KA group and heard from the riders I’d passed. Still, what a road from Te Reinga – just fantastic.

Ten flat kilometres back towards where I came from, it was only a little tempting to head home to my excellent hosts. But, another new road – more exploring! Ruapapa Rd served up a surprising amount of pine forest – a big wide gravel road with more traffic than I was expecting and no views. Suddenly, a little hydro scheme that I didn’t know existed – fascinating.

Sun out by now and the westerly rising, the steep climb away from the dam and the Waiau River was a bit of shock. The descent to the river was fast, steep and heavily corrugated.

I stopped most of the way down and chatted to a farmer moving some of his 35,000 sheep.

A good thing I did too – I now have a contact which should enable HBAT to avoid more highway and cover more hills, and he pointed me towards water at a local community hall – also handy to know for HBAT.

It’s quite a gateway to the hall – from the old bridge over the Waiau. Coincidentally, the grandparents of my host for the weekend used to live in that house.

Over the river, the road was sealed again up what I’ve learnt the locals call the “staircase”. It’s only four hundred metres to ascend to the start of one of my favourite roads.

Finally, I snapped a photo of this cute little house I’ve notice many times before.

Again, Cricklewood Road did not disappoint. With the westerly stronger up here, the rolling climbs were there to be attacked – in amongst stopping to look over the terrain I was now slightly more familiar with. Deserted on a Saturday afternoon, there wasn’t even a huge flock of sheep to negotiate.

Towards where I’d spent the previous few hours.

No sheep this time – c.f.

I mean, look at it…

Over northern Hawke Bay to Mahia Peninsula.

Eventually, the big descent to sea level and the quick blast back into town were done and I was welcomed with a big barbecue dinner. Fantastic day, odd to be riding so far with an unloaded bike – that certainly makes 2000 m/100 km easier.

Sunday had a far more leisurely start – sleep-in, drive to Tiniroto and set off on a far shorter loop at half-nine. Mostly I was extremely keen to ride Parikanapa Rd again – it being so stunning on NITT, I wanted to know how it rode in the opposite direction. I’d love to see it in a course route, so this was important to find out. The steep climbing was done quickly and the bit that was rough and loose gravel while descending at speed, was really quite placid when climbing slowly.

Again, it was great riding weather and there was no traffic – well, I saw some quad bikes on farms and a car. I was curious to see how all the hills would look without the amazing evening light I got on NITT. While they weren’t quite as spectacular, the beauty of all the folds and creases in the hills surrounding that road was still apparent.

Another two wonderful hours up on the ridges of Parikanapi Rd over and I was back on the lower Tiniroto Road – my, it was comparatively boring. Although I did meet two more pairs of KA riders while I was riding downhill – I quickly u-turned and spun up hill chatting all the way until I started going down the other side.

Grass up the middle and very skinny road – only sealed as just around the corner were a lot of tight switchbacks dropping to the Hangaroa River.

Incidentally, it’s the meeting of the Hangaroa and Ruakituri Rivers that form the Wairoa – glad I’ve finally got that sorted in my mind. The Wairoa always seemed to me improbably large for such a short river; it seems to me that some of the tributaries are far bigger than the two rivers that start the Wairoa off. There’s a nice big park just over the bridge that crosses the Hangaroa there – a good spot for families, camping and for me to have my lunch.

Back onto gravel, the lunch-legs appeared – but the climbing was mostly slight, the views and surface pleasing. Only after crossing back over the river did a decent climb appear, but that was easily surmounted. Even less traffic on Ruakaka Road than in the morning – that is, no vehicles on the road. The twenty kilometres after lunch was quickly over to complete a lovely few hours of riding. Seemed a shame not to pop in and support the pub (they fed many hungry bikepackers over the week just gone) before heading south. I’d love to get both of these roads on my HBAT route, but that’s not likely – but, happily enough, more exploring is called for in these parts.

Saturday’s route, somehow I lost the ride – it was only about 3700 m of climbing: