Away from our secluded campground to the outskirts of Kuwagai and some buildings that caught our eye before quiet lanes approaching and then skirting Toyokawa.

Not quite matching.

Colour! Always pleased to see some, especially missing the colourful buildings of Mongolia.

Poor, sweating telephone.

Seemed a proliferation of different covers to snap around Toyokawa – much pausing, more enjoyable than all the traffic lights.

Unsure how this creature fight fires…

Curious firefighting method.

Unfortunately we had to head into Toyohashi – still looking for a cursed SRAM chain for Rachel’s bike, this time at a bike shop recommended back in Matsumoto. But we were early, so had a chance to look around another restored castle – this one had an interesting historical display (that we could understand).

With still more time up our sleeves, we happened across a cafe with better tea service than we were used to! Any feelings of disgust at two smelly bikepackers were well disguised – as expected in Japan.

As interesting as the bike shop was, when it finally opened, it was another failure in replacing the pesky chain. We did however give our bear spray to the owner, nice to not need or carry that after two months.

Suburbia for a while until we finally broke through the chain of urbanisation and industrialisation and headed towards the Pacific.

Tens of kilometres of market gardens and glasshouses was a welcome change – mostly very quiet lanes amongst them.

At Akabane we joined the Pacific Cycling Road, after a michi no eki stop for some delicious local figs.

The cycle trail along the coast was mostly good, helped by a friendly easterly, spots were popular with surfers.

Some interesting clouds backed up the rain forecast for late in our day.

Sometimes the route would narrow and become overgrown, used to this by now.

Other times, it would inexplicably turn into steep staircases.

But still a cycling road, apparently.

Across the mouth of Ise Bay, as we approached the end of the spit and Irago – where we would board a ferry to Ise, avoiding Nagoya.

Approaching Irago, successfully avoiding the town – the port just behind the closest building.

Made it in plenty of time for the ferry, although we can’t claim to have ridden much of this PCR – interesting to see such a sign indicating a recognised route…

Quite a ferry for six cars and two bikes!

Needless to say, we had plenty of space to ourselves for the short (one hour) sailing.

Tumbleweeds – although I was more taken with the clouds than the parking lot.

Disembarking at dusk, there was light drizzle for the start of the short ride to the outskirts of Ise. In light of the forecast we’d booked an apartment. Our decision was vindicated as the rain got heavier and the night roads dicier, before long we were drenched in an absolute downpour and dealing with surface flooding. Thankfully it was still warm as only once did I get covered in excessive splashing from a passing truck. Very pleased to get dinner from a konbini and take it to our accommodation to dry off and eat. An entertaining end to an otherwise flat and easy day.