The sun was just up by the time we got away from a bivy spot that proved very conducive to sleep. All morning was spent on roads and trail I was familiar with from many past rides – in more recent years the Geyserland Gravel Grinds, and further back my first bike tours when I was fourteen and fifteen years old.

Highlights were some nice early morning gravel, quiet roads, ascending Waikite hill for the first time since I was a teenager (and finding my climbing legs), a big refuel at the excellent Benny Bee cafe, discovering the short section of trail around the base of Rainbow Mountain is better in this direction (SW to NE), clear views of Mt Tarawera, the one-lane bridge at Rerewhakaaitu is finally open again and losing all our altitude to sea level – easy riding with another kind wind.

Down on the coastal plains, the public holiday traffic was tolerable; the big resupply and ice cream at Awakeri, more than tolerable. It was definitely warmer down at low elevation, we had another refuel at Taneatua as there was some decent climbing coming up. Half an hour up on rough gravel through forest certainly had us sweating – there were numerous pauses in the shade, and helping some people who were rather hopelessly lost. Back to Ohiwa Harbour-level, Pete had found a way to shorten our time on the highway to Opotiki.

Through farmland and orchards, on a real mixture of connecting roads (some sealed, some fast gravel, some very slow gravel) – this way was far slower, but pretty much deserted, compared to the highway option.

Our arrival in town coincided nicely with dinner hours, we found a great spot where we could wheel our bikes around the back to the outdoor eating area – I promptly tucked into a large meal, one of the better of the trip. Resupply done, it was off for three hours of evening riding which would be one of the stand-outs of the entire NITT.

Other bikepacking trips through the area had not afforded me the opportunity to ride the short Dunes Trail that parallels the beach east out of town. Finally I had the chance; a balmy evening with the sun setting and wind behind us was just the ticket.

The waxing moon, as it was for the week I was away, made its appearance for the night.

Looking around the eastern reaches of the Bay of Plenty – that evening’s and the following day’s riding.

Not a bad evening to be out for a ride at all.

Onto the quiet highway after the trail ended, a glorious evening darkened into a spectacular night for riding – one of the best I’ve had. Still, warm, the sun slowly setting allowed the moon to brighten and reflect off the Pacific stretching in front of us.

Mostly dead flat, there were a couple of lumps until a decent two hundred metre climb – approaching ten o’clock and still in short sleeves we were. As much I was enjoying the night ride, as the light faded I was wondering what sights I was missing – we started looking for a bivy site. None forthcoming, we dove off the road up a forestry road. When I say “up”, it was fifteen minutes of pushing up a steep hill before we found a spot remotely flat to camp. A few minutes later, I’d decided the dug out bit to the side looked the most level, smoothest and least rocky part of the clearing; that is how we both came to tick off that bikepacking badge of “sleeping in a ditch”. On such a warm and clear night, it was a fantastic place to sleep.

Now into the fourth day of our traverse, we’d had another excellent one – not nearly as hilly or slow as the previous two – and were confident we’d knock this off within the planned four days. I might just make it back to work on time…

A leisurely start to the day with twenty-five kilometres of quiet backroads, with only the slightest of inclines as we followed the Ongarue River upstream and turned off to begin the Timber Trail.

There’s that railway again, for the last time on this trip.

Both Pete and I were looking forward to riding the Timber Trail in the reverse, south to north, direction to that which is normal. With a gentle southerly behind us, it didn’t disappoint. One of the reasons I prefer riding it in this direction is that the part of the trail that is in the worst condition (up to the Ongarue Spiral) is over and done with straightaway and one can forget about how poorly maintained and uninspiring that section is; going the other direction, it’s such a disappointment to finish an otherwise great day on.

Suspension bridges galore still delight – such vast gaps in terrain they bridge, with the native bush-clad valleys so far below. With both of us having ridden this trail plenty of times, photos are few and far between. One of the highlights was stopping in and checking out the new Camp Epic – and not just because the kettle was on and we got tea and coffee. All the tents spread around the big clearing and campfire, over a dozen, form part of quite the facility (cooking shelter, toilet and shower block, and plenty of room to pitch your own tent) – a worthy addition to the limited facilities on the trail. As always, maybe one day I’ll ride the trail more slowly and, therefore, get to stay here. I commented that the tents, not so much the surroundings, reminded me of being on safari – turns out all the tents were imported from South Africa, so that explains that.

Trail traffic increased later in the afternoon, as we came across a few bikepackers and many that were riding the trail over two days – either stopping at the lodge or Camp Epic. The views from the high point on Pureora over to Lake Taupo were some of the clearest we’ve both seen – often it’s either dark or clagged in when I’ve been up there. From there, the chief reason that I prefer the direction we were heading – a stonking great ten kilometre downhill to finish. Riding the last few kilometres, after it’s flattened out a bit, through pristine native bush, having to pedal a bit but able to hold a lot of speed, is my favourite piece of semi-technical mountain-biking on the trail; such fun to finish.

While that was a lot of the day’s climbing done, it was far warmer down a few hundred metres lower and out from underneath the canopy. As Pete educated me a bit more about the timing of when this forest was saved from logging and when various hiking trails were formed and huts built, we climbed up to the amusing “Centre of the North Island” (a piece of cardboard!). The notorious Arataki Swing Bridge had passed its load test a day or two before, so we didn’t have to take a large detour. Instead it was back past the place where I was overcome with heat stroke symptoms three months before, I’m unsure how I’d managed to climb up and get to Pureora – it sure was a long downhill to get to the spot.

Surviving the bridge, I only managed to jam my thumb between my handlebars and an upright once, there was a little pushing up to the road end before a quick sealed, descent to Whakamaru for fish, burgers, milkshakes, ice cream and resupply. While it hadn’t been a big day for distance, such a long trail can take it out of you. We planned to ride what I consider to be one of the easiest and most pleasant sections of the Waikato River Trails for twenty-five kilometres to a short stretch on State Highway One before finding somewhere to bivy overnight.

A glorious evening, the mighty Waikato was becalmed. Although I’d only ridden this section once, and enjoyed it so, and knew there was little elevation gain to be had – I’d long ago learnt that one underestimates this collection of trails at your own peril, especially on a loaded bike at the end of a long day. So it was, the tiny pinch climbs kept coming – hitting us one after the other for much of the first half of the section. But it was such a stunning evening, it could hardly have gotten to us. Things flattened out around some fields and we could hold some speed, eventually popping out on the highway a little after nine o’clock.

The end of the trail would come close to Pohaturoa, which was just over the river from the trailhead.

With Waitangi Day the following day, a Thursday, I was expecting the highway to be busy with traffic heading south from Auckland for a four-day weekend. It really wasn’t that bad, the four kilometres having ample shoulder. Ten more minutes and we’d dropped down to the river, crossed the Ohakuri Dam and found a very quiet and sheltered spot to camp the night. A shorter day for distance, there was much riding in that 173 km – over a hundred of them were trail; another pleasing day, we figured we’d completed the difficult half of our North Island Traverse and were well on schedule to finish within four days.

Sneaking out before the house woke, an easy roll down through the city took us to the brilliant Coastal Pathway – always great seeing so many using such facilities, especially early in the morning.

The day promised to be cloudier than the previous few.

No views through the bridge of Taranaki today.

Leaving the pathway and the coastal area, we headed through Bell Block to ride on backroads looping back around to the highway at Urenui. Skirting a light industrial area was only mildly interesting because I saw plants where various people I’ve met on process safety courses over the last four years work. Unfortunately the road which is designated as part of the NZ Cycle Trail seems to be a main arterial route for many trucks going south from Bell Block; with no shoulder and little visibility due to the lumpiness of the road, it was awful and at times frightening. Things improved a little past Lepperton through farmland, but by the time the twenty-five kilometre detour was done we’d long since decided we’d have been better off on the highway – which at least has a decent shoulder and less alarming traffic.

A large cooked second-breakfast and resupply at Urenui was just the ticket before getting onto quiet country roads, following the sedate Urenui River valley upstream. The farming was back to looking marginal, and in places the land was slowly reverting to scrub and bush. Past Okoki, where there’s a useful looking Outdoor Pursuits place homed in the old school (camping, water, showers, maybe a pool) the gravel started and excellent it was too.

Cruising up a two hundred metre climb; flowering kanuka was also a feature of the day.

Through the first tunnel of the day, we cruised down towards Uruti. At the junction of Moki Rd (the other end of which I’d passed two days ago; the centre section is a gnarly paper road that I rode four years ago on a tiring day ride), we met a local who enthused at length about the beauty of the area, and interest all the various hills hold for him. From what I’d seen so far, I could not but agree.

Climbing Moki Rd, heading for the second tunnel of the day.

Now past noon, the cloud cover and gentle westerly were most appreciated. The prevailing wind was one of the reasons we were riding between capes west to east; another main reason was the Timber Trail is, I think, far better in that direction – contrary to prevailing wisdom. By now, it was clear to me that I was mostly noticeably behind Pete – as can be seen in the photos. Usually we’re about the same pace – but I did have an extra two and a half big days of riding almost five hundred kilometres in my legs. So I wasn’t put-out, or disappointed to be slower; but it was a bit odd to suddenly have to adjust to riding with someone else and the effect on pacing and stops that has.

Tunnel number two for the day.

Dropping down to the junction with Kiwi Road, we headed north on the section of our route shared from that trip four years ago. Funny, reading that trip report back I hardly mentioned the steep climb that would have us sweating for the next half an hour. A fast descent took half our elevation as we met a bit of a flat valley and our third tunnel of the day and a drop back down to sea-level.

A good sign as we head up Kiwi Rd; we saw little traffic, as had been the case since Urenui.

Tunnel #3.

Joining the Mega GGG route from 2017, we were heading inland and I failed to recognise it in this direction! Stopping in the shade at Kotare and snacking on roadside blackberries, it was time for a bit of a rest before the four hundred metre climb to Waitaanga. If we’d continued on the road we’d been on, we would have eventually reached the other end of Moki Rd and the Forgotten World Highway – looking at the map now, there’s clearly more scope for me to explore new places.

The hour of climbing to Waitaanga was leisurely enough starting out beside the Mangatawa Stream before rearing up a bit to crest the hills and go across the Waitaanga plateau. Not much left in here these days, we rode through and hit the steep climb over to Ohura. It wasn’t as bad as I remember, being reasonably flat at the top before bombing down to Ohura. On her day off, the now-legendary-in-North-Island-bikepacking Michelle opened up her Fiesta Food Cart just for us, plying us with cooling watermelon, yoghurt and cold drinks before a piled plate of Mexican food and quesadillas. Much needed nourishment and rest in the shade.

Duck!

As we sat, the shade very quickly came from a dark bank of clouds rolling in. With the tail end of a storm that had just dumped rain further south (extensive flooding in Milford Sounds – that storm) approaching, we booked a motel room in Taumaranui. We just had to get over two significant climbs and cover the forty-five kilometres left for the day. I’d only ridden this section in the opposite direction on last year’s Mega and I didn’t remember much except hills and good looking, but cloud covered, steep farmland.

It turned out the first half was very pleasant valley floor riding back to the Forgotten World Highway. One of those times where the river besides you is dropping very slowly, but the road is gently climbing if not flat. To my bewilderment, we passed an ad hoc polo match – with horses and everything! My mind still boggles, not a common scene in NZ – not even an uncommon scene, more unheard of.

Off the FWH, we hit fresh, deep and uncompacted gravel for a few tedious kilometres. Near the end of another long day, weary legs tried their best to attack it and get it over with – but really they just pedalled slowly through. As darkness fell and we wound our way up the last climb of the day, the rain started lightly – which helped regulate the temperature somewhat. At the top of the hill, we layered up for the descent and phoned the motel to advise we were still on our way, not lost – just a little later than I’d previously estimated.

Half an hour straight down into town was decidedly the coldest and wettest I was for the whole trip – which, in the scheme of things, was exceptionally good. Strangely, I began to crave McDonald’s – perhaps because I knew it would be open. But the gas station next door was also open – a late night pie and chocolate milk satisfied my hunger. The Alexander Spa Motel is recommended for being most accommodating to cyclists, and sufficiently far from the railway to be quiet. Unfortunately, rest won out over a nice spa; on a warm evening, clothes dried easily as we slept soundly.

I definitely wasn’t my strongest or most energetic that day, but look back at it now and see that there was a fair amount of climbing and plenty of new roads and sights – another great day on my NITT.

Gone by six, I was soon back on the Forgotten World Highway as an overcast day dawned. Having driven the FWH a few times, the scenery was nice but my breath was not taken as previously. There are a few small climbs, but also a lot of valley riding was pretty easy going. Unfortunately, for backcountry cycling, all but twelve kilometres of the road is sealed now; that part which is still gravel was in pretty horrible condition. A symptom of the unexpected number of logging trucks? Perhaps; it’s still surprising to me that I saw most logging trucks of the entire trip through these backblocks.

Hobbit Hole, the sign says; the tunnel on the FWH.

The road finds the old railway at Tahora (about 40 km into my day) and ran close to it for much of time until I turned off thirty-five kilometres later. The exception being the railway gets tunnels at far lower elevation than the saddles the road passes over.

Approaching Tahora Saddle – rails stay low.

The hotel wasn’t really open at nine-thirty, but they rustled up bacon and eggs for me nonetheless – supreme.

Reaching the last significant saddle heading west on the FWH, it was time to turn north and find some better gravel. My route stayed about five kilometres north of the main road heading for Stratford. My word, the hills, gravel backroads, farming scenes and views were especially noteworthy. Eventually, Taranaki came into view too; it was one of those rare clear days where at one particular spot I could see both Ruapehu and Taranaki, although not simultaneously – being between them and all.

Climbing from Matau over to Huiroa, I was pleased by the sudden appearance of a tunnel just when I was beginning to wonder how the road would get over the ever-steepening hillside. But I was surprised to meet a pedestrian just standing there; more so, when we found we worked at NZ Steel at the same time and previously only had one degree of separation. Unusually, I thought, he and his wife were staking out the tunnel to photograph logging trucks; I’d seen some evidence of recent felling, but no cartage on this road.

I rode through the tunnel doing my best impression of a logging truck…

…and got this photo for my efforts.

Down in sheep farming country now, I spotted a mob being driven up the road. In no rush, there was enough time to dive off down a driveway and seek shade from the quickly warming afternoon and let the flock pass without me troubling them. Shortly after, stopping for water at a farm house, I was not surprised to find the day had quickly climbed into the thirties.

Sometimes you get to see Taranaki.

Warming a bit much, the last little stretch into Stratford was a bit of a drag – but the cold, quiet and empty Subway was a good place to recharge and refuel. Pete got in touch, and we figured I’d complete the sixty kilometres around the southern side of the mountain to Cape Egmont to meet him in three hours. Planning this route, I knew this stretch of road wouldn’t be particularly fun – but it meant I’d ride around Taranaki, and it wasn’t a highway.

The views stayed, and on the busy route between Ohakune and Stratford I had to keep my wits about me. The road climbed gradually, by far the highest I’d been all day, but was lumpy as it did so – all those streams and rivers running off the slopes had to be crossed. Progressing, I turned more and more into the NWer. Nothing for it but to put my head down and ride; knowing I’d soon be dropping down to sea level was some consolation.

The Tasman Sea tantalisingly close and less traffic once I was off the route between towns.

Descending to the sea, I finally found out exactly where Parihaka is. The last section was a little longer than I expected, I met Pete just after six o’clock where I was welcomed with a large chocolate muffin – that certainly hit the spot. A bit of a break to savour traversing the North Island in bang-on two and a half days (~480 km, 8000 m of climbing), riding some fantastic trails and backroads for the first time – excellent weather helped, and even the westerly oriented winds weren’t too bad, generally.

So, that’s the heading-west side of the trip done.

Less than quarter of an hour later, there really wasn’t much else to do (the lighthouse was shut) but get on the bikes and start the journey to East Cape. We thought we’d get to New Plymouth for before dark. Back up the east-west roads I’d just descended wasn’t too bad; actually rather pleasant as they were quiet enough to enable much chatting and the wind was now helpful.

Climbing up to Carrington Rd, which would take us twenty-five kilometres right into the city, it loosely followed the 450 m contour line. A skinny, sealed road with a moss median strip it was often a tunnel of native forest. Sublime riding on that evening, one of the highlights of the day and an excellent way to start Pete’s North Island Traverse route.

Before nine we were being welcomed, with admittedly short notice, in to Jacqui and Dan’s home for much appreciated real food and beds. Quite pleased with my first day of well over two hundred kilometres for some time and not being particularly sore, sleep came easily.