family, NZ

Stewart Island family trip

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After years of talking about it, a family trip was finally organised to Stewart Island – thanks to Adele for organising it, and Neil & Jill for the kind use of a family home. Adele and James were the only ones who’d been before; anticipation was high for all.

A calm evening ferry ride over, which was just as well as there was still some seasickness.

We got to the house in the dark, but I couldn’t resist traipsing around the surrounding bush to explore a bit – and see if I could spot a kiwi.

Waking up overlooking Halfmoon Bay.

Jill had told me of a good running loop from the house, predominantly in native forest and along the coast for large parts. I set out to see what I’d find.

Promptly distracted from the route by roads and tracks leading in other directions.

Found myself on Ringaringa Point, looking over Paterson Inlet to Ulva Island.

The trail on the map no longer exists, so I retraced my route to the intended loop. A bit lumpy along the coastal bush section, but I was in no hurry.

Popping back over to Halfmoon Bay and town, it was a short road section back to the house.

Who should I find but James processing his morning’s catch. It became a daily catch, with rod and speargun; we ate a lot of seafood that week and never tired of it!

Back to our accommodation nestled in the bush on right.

Waiting for the water taxi to Ulva Island on Golden Bay.

Thankfully this boat ride was far more enjoyable and exciting for my nephews!

A predator-free island, Ulva is a sanctuary for many native birds. There’s a couple of hours worth of walking tracks and nice beaches to wander while looking for birds.

The robins are many, and not at all shy. Far easier to photograph too!

This was one of the busier beaches on the island.

The following day, the grandparents were given some respite while the rest of us went for an overnight walk and beach camp on the start of the Rakiura Track.

The northern trailhead is at Lee Bay.

Coastal forest for the four kilometres that we walked to Maori Beach.

Plenty to amuse us all at the beach, old sawmilling relics, roasting marshmallows and making smores on an open fire, and general camping life. Still no kiwis spotted, although we certainly heard a loud one nearby in the middle of the night.

Ready to start the return.

Peters Point.

Too cute.

Back to my now favourite cabbage tree.

Sunday brought the first rain of the trip – good going considering Stewart Island’s reputation. But it was bright enough to set off on a walk to Horseshoe Point. Squally showers were pleasant, cooling me a little as I’d overdressed. More beaches and bays to explore as the track wound its way through mostly native forest.

Eventually arriving at Horseshoe Point, looking towards Horseshoe Bay.

After a final pub dinner (more seafood, yum) our short stay was all but over. Just an early morning rainy bundle into the island’s taxi for James and me to take all the luggage downtown – we got a far choppier ferry ride back to the mainland while the rest went on the wee plane.

The rain stopped after we’d done all the baggage moving. Lights back at the house as the rest got ready for the plane, while we waited for the ferry.

An excellent family holiday at a leisurely pace in a wonderful little spot of the country – I hope a return visit takes far less time than the first.

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Old Woman Range

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Far too long since I’d been bikepacking on my actual bikepacking bike, the lure of finally exploring the Old Woman Range in good autumn conditions did the trick – having biked past, or around it, a number of times my curiosity had long since been piqued. So we downed garage-building tools a day early and I headed to Clyde partially packed for a night in the hills.

A leisurely start across the fields, Leaning Rock in the distance.

We found the calm morning changed to a noticeable headwind as the breeze funnelled down the gorge on the Lake Dunstan Cycle Trail. Concern that the rental-bike traffic would be overwhelming was unfounded – except at the narrowest part of the trail (of course!).

A lovely morning’s riding, even if my legs aren’t used to a loaded bike anymore. Wasn’t long before future plans were switching to this bike, away from the faster, lighter gravel bike.

(Rachel’s photo)

Autumnal; out of the gorge and the wind all but gone.

After lunch in Bannockburn we headed for the Nevis Rd, somewhat overwhelmed by a long convoy of vehicles heading that way. What was going on out here? Turning onto the gravel we spied a solitary classic beribboned Rolls Royce, but unattended. Curious.

The Shepherds Creek valley and grovel out of it were baking with no breeze and a thirty degree afternoon. I stopped at a thread of a water race to cool off. A few more pick-ups passed us heading up, and then the motos started coming down. Identical adventure bikes, individually numbered into the 100s, they just kept rolling down – we never discovered what big organised ride they were on.

(Rachel’s photo)

With the grade averaging close to ten percent, I was soon off and pushing at anything over that – which was familiar from the last, more-heavily loaded, trip up here. As we climbed there was still no wind, but the air temperature cooled a bit.

The reason for all the traffic became clear as we approached the summit – suddenly feeling rather underdressed amongst a hundred-odd wedding guests enjoying the views and a few drinks to celebrate. Don’t think they could have got a better day for it!

Extraordinary.

Finally got to see Mt Cook from up here.

With two options to get from the road down to actual Duffers Saddle, we chose the one that took us over the summit of the road to pose with the incorrect Duffers Saddle sign.

(Rachel’s photo)

Quite a drop from the road to the saddle and what looked to be a big push to get on the Old Woman Range.

Some of it I could ride. (Rachel’s photo)

Well pleased with the clear views back to the ranges around home, and that I can now name them all and some of the peaks.

Approaching five o’clock, with only sixty kilometres but over two thousands metres of climbing, I was pretty toasted. Another two-plus hours to get Boundary Hut didn’t sound fun or sensible to me – not when Old Woman Hut was so close and it was new to me.

An easy decision to turn-off and roll down to the hut. A couple of young fellas were already there, having come up on motorbikes – but they clearly didn’t like us, so left after an hour or so. We settled in to a very comfortable hut – it’s recently been relined inside with ply and the sleeping platforms are also new. A short walk up from the hut gives good views of the Nevis Valley, and Mt Cook again.

(Rachel’s photo)

(Rachel’s photo)

After a fairly decent sleep, it was another slow start – that worked well as the hundred-odd motorbikes from yesterday reappeared and were initially using the same route we were. Waiting them out, we only got passed by nine or ten after rejoining the route along Old Woman Range. Having done most of the climbing the day before, it was far easier going – not as steep and not nearly as much of it. We snaked up and down for a few hours glad there was little wind and the forecast weather deterioration was staying away. I was surprised by the number of tarns.

Generally a good riding surface; there was the odd bog from 4WDs to avoid.

Mostly we enjoyed the wide open expanses at such altitude.

Heading for the little bump on the right horizon.

A couple of hours in we passed the turn-off to Boundary Hut – I was particularly pleased to have not pushed that far on Day One. Curiosity was not so strong to want to drop the best part of a hundred metres to see what we’d missed. We joined the Old Man Range at Hyde Rock – which was not at all notable on approach from the tops.

Far more prominent from the valley – of which it gave expansive views.

The rain looked closer out west, so north to the Obelisk we went. Back on a route I’d done before, the track and surroundings were familiar but were completely different without the gale wind blowing riders into fences or turning loaded bikes into kites. I think about my previous visit far too often.

At least I got a few photos this time – this the climb that needed the most effort that day.

The transmitter was visible far back, but only got bigger annoyingly slowly.

Made it and managed not to get clean blown over this time. (Rachel’s photo)

I was particularly looking forward to the Omeo Gully descent. The downhill, dropping 1500 m did not disappoint in any way. It was rough, rocky and loose in parts – as well as steep as I’d want to ride on a loaded bike, encroached by giant tussocks and, when waiting, it gave great views. An absolute blast – loved it. Alas, I was having too much fun to get pictures of the best parts.

Still on the ridge, approaching the turn-off right. Track already rougher than the transmitter service road we’d just been on.

(Rachel’s photo)

(Rachel’s photo)

The lower reaches mellowed out through grazed hillside.

What a great way to get back into bikepacking, finally got up there and motivation is back for more trips. Thanks to Rachel for the idea, impetus and, as always, being a great adventure buddy. Thanks to Mark, Paula and Eilish for the accommodation, untold cups of tea and terrific post-ride cookies that went a long way to replacing any lost calories.

around home, Aus, bikes, family, NZ

The Christmas Letter 2024

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Selling last summer to the continued Pulpmill cyclone recovery project turned out well – recency bias perhaps, it was the most rewarding, engaging and worthwhile work I can remember doing. Generally fifty hour, five and a half day, weeks didn’t leave a lot of time for much else – but I did manage a bit of gravel riding with a good mate and even-slower parkruns as I nursed a side strain. I was pleased to see pulp just starting to come out of the mill before I returned home at Easter (finally reaching the 100 parkruns milestone). I continued to support the project remotely for the next two months, but the hours decreased as the project neared completion.

Returning home and working less gave the opportunity to catch up with family and friends, get in vital firewood, try to remember how to ambulance, and get out in the hills a little. Some highlights were:

Riding from Macraes to the coast through farmland for a fundraiser.

The new, and excellent, Pike29 trail with a good bunch..

Gravel riding near Lake Brunner with the same group, and half the Heaphy with a subset.

A typical, but easy (to cater for less-fit me), West Coast hike up to Mt Brown Hut.

And the summit, only posted here because I thought I’d better put some of the rare photos of me in. Thanks to Katie for this one.

Back in Naseby, I enjoyed a couple of weekend visits from Hooges and Orlaith – as well as helping with firewood work – they bring enthusiasm for half-baked adventure plans that I never seem to get around to doing solo. In this case, finally climbing up through friends’ farm to see what it’s like at the top of Mt Alexander, near Danseys Pass.

Thanks Orlaith for this pic.

Visits from our parents to Naseby reduce over winter, but while Mum was visiting family and friends in UK and Europe I helped Dad buy an e-bike – so that was brought along during a rare winter visit. It’s been good fun having Dad suggest rides we should do and I look forward to more. A sunny, frosty ride from Oturehua to Omakau on the rail trail particularly memorable.

I successfully did my best to not go straight back to work, partly because I’d long wanted to visit a few friends in Queensland for the first time. September was the month to do so, shouldn’t be too hot. I hastily repacked and left my bike at home, forgoing the easy tour I had planned, when temperatures soared over thirty degrees higher than I was used to in Central Otago. So I had a leisurely trip spending extended time with dear friends and family.

On a Sunshine Coast walk.

I did of course manage to borrow bikes and get some short half-day rides in.

Time on farms was excellent, here having watched a bit of beekeeping, but there were general garden tasks, soap making, and dog walking to get me outside – as well as the riding, general exploring and walking.

Coming home to October snow and a week of rain was a bit much; on the plus side, I’ve never seen Central Otago looking so green! November was much better, especially with a delightful overnight hike with my young nephews and their family.

Back north later that month, there were more small hiking and biking adventures and I got to see my favourite podcast performed live again – which reminds me I also saw my favourite band perform in Auckland one weekend back in February.

Photo credit to Katie again.

And again.

In searching for portraits, I did find a couple of photos I’d forgotten about. This one reminding me that my haemochromatosis is still in maintenance with three-monthly blood donations. I continue to maintain that as far as chronic health conditions go, it’s a pretty good one – no medication, regular blood donations that help unknown others out, and I’m arguably symptom-free.

Also on the health front, I’m surprised and pleased at how good my once-troublesome shoulder now is after last year’s surgery. It certainly doesn’t clunk or stall as it used to – and it’s had a fair workout this year with firewood sawing, chopping and throwing.

Back in Naseby life, when I’m there, I spend a lot of hours on call for the local ambulance. After the long break with surgery and back in Napier, it’s obvious I’m not the medic in the family – but that’s fine, I don’t need to be to help keep our volunteer-staffed ambulance online. Small house building has stalled in the consent process, but the with a lot of help the pad for my garage was laid a few weeks ago – hopefully I can build the garage in January, with more help. It should be a fun and rewarding learning curve.

Somehow I’ve picked up a bit more work in Napier, this time on a casual basis in the sawmill (a different world to pulp), but it’ll be a couple of months before I’m back up there. Besides that and building, nothing much planned for the coming year – lots of ideas, but nothing set. Merry Christmas and all the best for the coming year!

bikes, MTB, NZ

A Coronet Loop

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Generally avoiding the Queenstown area means it has taken a few years to get around to riding the Coronet Loop. It sounded a good fifty-odd kilometre ride through otherwise deserted country, yet still close to the tourist mecca, so when the local MTB group planned a trip I finally went to ride it. Unfortunately parts of the loop were closed due to damage from a lot of recent rain (Central Otago is unusually green however as a result though), so we rerouted early on through Millbrook golf resort – always strange to ride MTBs through there.

With the big climb first up on a still morning and the sun beating down, I was soon on struggle street. Well below past bike-condition, it was looking a long hard day ahead. At least with all that rain, all the creeks were running and there was so much drinking water all day – a nice way to cool down, and no need to carry much liquid mass. There was some relief as the gradient eased and the air cooled as we neared our highest point of the day.

Over to the Remarkables.

This saddle being the highest we’d get.

Contemplating the fun down Long Gully.

The descent, paralleling the infamous Skippers Road, was good intermediate grade MTBing – I remember one decent rock drop I didn’t ride as I approached it too slowly and thought better of the risk of injury and ruining the day.

Back up the descent from the saddle.

Somewhere in here there were a couple of slips that we had to carry over, no big problem, before a switchbacked section that started out strangely steep but mellowed as we closed in on Green Gate Saddle.

Some of the switchbacks, and across to Skippers Road.

A bit of a clamber above the saddle to see if I could see more of our surrounds.

I could – the downhill to Green Gate Hut, and lunch.

Off we go… Well, the last three of the sixteen in front.

Down to lunch.

With such a large group, stops were, thankfully, plentiful and long – certainly helped get through the day.

A short climb and descent followed lunch to drop us to cross Deep Creek and follow it up for a while. We seemed to get a light tailwind to help us up. As we climbed above the creek for a while, one could feel how it would bake in here on a still summer’s day. We were very fortunate with the weather, couldn’t have asked for better.

Well above the creek now.

Thankfully not unpleasantly hot.

View stop at a spot labelled Easter Island – I missed snapping a photo of the rock that must have inspired the name.

It seems we somewhat took over the trail. With the part closures, we pretty much had it to ourselves – seeing one other rider all day, and he went past in the opposite direction as we lunched.

We rejoined Deep Creek for its first few kilometres, eventually climbing to the watershed and dropping quickly to Coronet Creek. From there we mostly descended for the almost-twenty kilometres to Arrowtown, much fun.

Not a hut to stay in, except in the most dire of circumstances. Something was definitely dead inside.

We joined the Macetown Road for the last ten kilometres along the Arrow River to finish in Arrowtown. Early on I rounded a corner to see a spectacular, but ultimately inconsequential, fall down a large bank. The last downhill into town was fast and fun. I’d no memory of ever having been up here before, but seems I rode to Macetown ten years ago! This wee blog does at least serve some of its original purpose of reminding me of various rides. Here’s hoping I don’t forget this great day out in a hurry.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.