Up early again as far too hot to stay in tents. As we were packing up, we were interested to see a couple of sea kayakers setting up camp at this time of the morning. To our surprise it was Rob and Haidee out adventuring, as they do often – their site documenting their travels seems the biggest English language resource online for such things in Hokkaido. We had already been using the bike section of the website extensively. Great to hear a couple of Kiwi accents and hear firsthand a little about their time living and exploring in Hokkaido.

Back south along the east coast for a bit (Rachel’s photo).

The first of a lot of kelp we saw drying today.

A good example of a tsunami escape staircase, don’t remember there being a lot of houses or people around here though.

One of the longer gallerias we saw and rode through.

Halfway down the island we turned inland and found a delightful forest road that gave us views from the centre of the island to the west coast and over the Sea of Japan. Steep to start with, that section was partly shaded – particularly welcome in the heat. Along the ridge the views really opened up and there were frequent stops. This short section of trail off sealed roads was my favourite section of riding so far in Japan, and remains a highlight.

To get down to the very near west coast, we had to drop steeply to the edge of Rebun town, on the east coast, and go back west through a new tunnel – this at least wonderfully cool and quiet. With time up our sleeves before the ferry back to Wakkanai, we pottered around the coast – a short dip, a short walk to a cleft in the rocks and then a little ride south to look at rocks that don’t look like the things they’re named after.

(Rachel’s photo)

Not a cat.

(Rachel’s photo)

A popular spot, hadn’t seen so many people in one place on these islands.

Back through the tunnel, alarming to be passed by the high-pitched whine of this scooter.

Still some time until the ferry arrived, why not go to the end of the island’s roads to the south? This was mostly through more down-on-their-heels coastal villages.

Back to join the motorbikes.

Bit busier than last time (Rachel’s photo).

So it was goodbye to the little island of Rebun – a very enjoyable day we had there. We’d started to enjoy the carpeted floor areas that were set up for sitting and lying down – no shoes; good for a bit of stretching, napping and general lounging around. Back to Hokkaido we went to ride to the northernmost point of that island.

Around Wakkanai’s port again.

Heading out east, the coastal road (very flat) curved around to the north to put the wind directly behind us – very easy riding. Didn’t look like there were going to be many options at Cape Soya, so a stock-up at the last Seicomart was in order.

Funny, coming from the kiwifruit capital of the world, to see them right at the top of Japan. Would realise during the trip that Zespri is the NZ brand that one sees most in Japan.

The stock, and low cost, of RTDs (ready-to-drink alcoholic drinks in NZ vernacular) in konbinis was always alarming; of the few I tried, I didn’t find a gin-based one I really liked. Nice change at the end of a hot day though, as a contrast to all the soft drinks.

Almost at Cape Soya, someone had found a diversion up the Path of White Shells. A very steep old road made up of crushed sea shells. Bathed again in sweat to end the day.

Very much crushed shells; at least some use for the piles we’d see at various processing plants.

Good views from the top of the three Rs – Rishiri, Rebun and Russia (Sakhalin Island).

Sakhalin Island in the distance.

Rishiri to the left, Rebun on the right (Rachel’s photo).

(Rachel’s photo)

Back on the coastal road for the last twenty minutes to the cape, in time for sunset. As Rachel mused, more land of the setting sun than rising sun for us – rather missing summer clock adjustment.

We found a good park to make camp in near the port – toilet block, water and even a picnic table for cooking dinner on.