I got wind of a long-planned Southern Special the previous month on Andy’s fantastic Conservation Area Loop. The concept was pretty standard with not much new to me, save for the carrot of getting down to Fiordland and hauling our bikes over Percy Saddle. Plans morphed over the intervening weeks and I realise now there are still places to show Andy that he’s not ridden yet – another time. Rachel already had the time off work and other plans fell through, so last month’s trio was back together. I determined to carry more gear, food and be more comfortable at camp so as to slow down a bit, in the hope of turning it into a more relaxed tour.

Originally I was disappointed the day we were due to depart became a travel day (admittedly I had far less distance to travel), but this turned into a blessing as that Friday was bleak – cold, wet and very grey. There was even flooding in Clyde as we met at Mark’s barn and extensive bike workshop – thanks Mark for the facilities! Debbie was a late addition for the first few days, having recently picked Scott up from the Tour Te Waipounamu finish and itching for an adventure of her own with a few days left off work – Scott happy to continue resting while pootling around in their camper.

Over a large curry, shades of GSB21, we reversed the proposed loop – avoiding the top of the Pisa Range at the tail end of the current storm – instead opting for the Nevis Valley first up, not quite as high and exposed. Saturday morning rolled around and packing was completed at the last minute – I didn’t quite fill my big saddlebag, but it was close. Unusually I packed a tent, along with extra clothes, a stove, much fuel and food for days away from shops; I was sure to be markedly slowed. I was wary of the plan to ride all the way to Mossburn the next day, was a bit more than I was expecting from this trip – but kept quiet as, weirdly, we seemed to be riding to a schedule.

Down to the river trail, we were soon on the Dunstan Gorge Trail. Funny, it was many months before I got to ride this and now here I was for the second time in a month. The bleak, cool morning did at least mean it was deserted. With a light southerly, this spectacularly engineered trail was even easier riding than last time. We didn’t even meet Rambo this time, although I was still getting good mileage retelling the story of his attack on Tom’s bike. The coffee-boat wasn’t even open it was such a dull day.

The more traditional coffee cart at a vineyard short of Bannockburn was open, so we did get a welcome morning tea stop before heading for the Nevis and up Duffers Saddle. Away from the zero-elevation gain riding beside Lake Dunstan, I quickly found myself falling well behind the others. In overloading my bike, I’d failed to consider having had another pint of blood taken less than two days earlier. Perhaps with only one of those factors in play I’d have been ok, but both were a bit much. With reduced hemoglobin, things weren’t quite firing. Oh well, at least my iron levels are down near the target now – that’s got to be good in the long run.

I continued plodding, somehow not getting off and walking. Not walking was better than the only other time I’ve climbed Duffers from this side – but that was a day of being almost-blown off the top of the Pisas and this saddle on GSB19 (which I maintain is the toughest event I’ve done).

Up and away from Lake Dunstan and Bannockburn.

Into the cloud at the summit.

Unsure if Andy’s face or the weather is more grim – one clearly a reflection of the other.

Time to layer up for the big downhill, such fun, to the Nevis Valley and the long gradual climb to its headwaters.

Brighter down there!

There started a few hours of toil into the nagging southerly. Plenty of streams to cross and opportunities to get water. It’s a vast valley and there’s much to look at with little bits of history and farming besides the fascinating landscape. Still feeling flat, I was pleased Andy did a lot of the work into the wind – far more effective when someone my size is the next largest in the group! My pedals, with a new service kit recently installed, ominously started squeaking – pretty rubbish really, even with the stream crossings.

Climbing out of Otago, these are now Southland hills.

Finally we were at the top of the 800 m drop to Garston. Fine views down and across the next valley, even in the gloom. Still the old Garston Ski Hut seemed a perfectly good place to call it a day ten hours and a hundred kilometres in. I don’t think that was only due to fond GSB21 memories, it’s a great spot and a quaint old hut.

Can’t complain about this downhill though; more GSB memories of an incredible late summer evening climb.

Down on the flat, it was fifty kilometres of flat riding to Mossburn. Well into the evening now, Rachel thoughtfully phoned the ever-hospitable-to-bikepackers Railway Hotel in Mossburn, booked rooms and ordered steak dinners for us all. Now just to deal with one of the stupidest sections of cycle trail in the country. Two latched gates at each farm crossing with two cattle stops is just ridiculous – someone really stuffed this up in giving the farmer the run around. I think the short section of highway is probably better than this absurdity, I’ll be happy if I never ride it again.

By now my left pedal was starting to seize, which left me trying to arrange to borrow or buy replacements the following morning in Te Anau. That was easier to do on the highway from Five Rivers to Mossburn – the faster and less hazardous route compared to the cycle trail between Lumsden and Mossburn that has power poles in the middle of it! Huzzah, we made it to the pub as the kitchen was closing to complete a long and unusually trying day. An enormous feed and a hot shower helped markedly. There were other bikepackers there too – funnily, the pair that I’d chatted to on top of the Hawkduns while out for a bike and hike at the start of the week.

Leaving the Railway Hotel, a long time since the railway came here.

Off west to Manapouri, there was a bit of less-ridiculous cycle trail to start before we hopped on the highway and I immediately lagged behind again – not having had to eat any of the mass of food I was hauling, due to great hospitality, didn’t help. At least my pedals were behaving better and I slowly gave up on the idea of detouring to Te Anau, deciding to risk them for the next day – knowing there was a fair bit of hike-a-bike anyway. We were all pleased to arrive at the cafe in Manapouri with plenty of time before our boat ride across the lake.

Now you’ve made it through my rambling, here is Andy’s video of the trip – and you don’t even need to wait for more posts to find out the rest.