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Asia, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, hiking

Pippu to Asahikawa

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Ninety minutes of riding to and then sidling the foothills of the volcanic mountains took us to Higashikawa in plenty of time to work out the bus timetable, eat at the farmers market inside the bus station, browse the Mont Bell store and work out where to leave our bikes in town for hours. Broad daylight in a public thoroughfare should be fine…

Very poor timing out here.

Nice to see little rail cars still trundling around the countryside.

I dived off the road seeing a sign for Canmore Ski Village. Canmore being the town in the Canadian Rockies I lived in for a year – what is going on here?

Not the Canmore I was used to.

Amused by the replacement of the maple leaf in the flag.

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Curious.

Curiouser.

Turns out Canmore, Alberta, is twinned with Higashikawa. Makes some sort of sense.

The bus to the ropeway was fair packed, but it beat riding up the narrow mountain road in the heat. The ropeway took us to 1600 m, we had four hours to get back before the ropeway closed. Only 700 m left to climb to the summit of Mt Asahidake – the highest mountain in Hokkaido. Surely that would be enough, it was only three-ish kilometres.

At least it was cooler up here. (That’s the summit elevation, bit misleading.)

Path flat for a little before beginning the climb. Plenty to look at though, misty peak, nice lake and some geothermal activity.

Up we go. Pretty rocky and loose, but easily walkable.

This section was better underfoot!

Pausing to look around most worthwhile.

Volcanic colours starting to show. Also, typically well-covered Japanese hiker.

We, on the other hand, not as nearly protected from the sun in our bike gear.

I do like fumarole fotos.

Misty clouds continually blowing through as we ascended; occasional views.

Fair bit of traffic, but not overwhelming.

Made it to the top to find we were only three hours’ walk from Kurodake – where we’d been two days before.

Not much of a view down the way we came.

But summit lunch wasn’t bad – some views in the opposite direction.

Bit clearer on the way down.

The descent was good fun, trying to stride, or jump, between large stepping stones and avoid the scree. Back to the flatter section, we still had two hours to spare – it was excellent to have the time to wander around the lower paths as the sky was clearer and it was absolutely gorgeous. So stunning in fact, I’m just going to put all these photos here and not write anything for a bit (!).

Easily making the last gondola, we hitched a ride back to town with an Australian couple – nice to avoid the crowded bus and fun to hear their experiences driving around Hokkaido. Six hours later, our bikes and all our gear were still where we left them against a shop wall in the busiest part of town. Touring in Japan so easy on many counts. An easy cruise down to Asahikawa on cycle trail alongside the Chubetsu River.

A bit neglected early on it soon became a top-notch piece of trail and then very well used.

A free campground in a big city park was home for the night – its point of difference in my mind was the absurdly loud music that played in the toilet block when one entered! After bathing at the largest public onsen of our trip, it was up the street for a barbecue dinner. Excellent day, still remains one of the highlights, if not the highlight, of my time in Japan.

Asia, bikepacking, bikes, GPS

Sounyko to Pippu

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Heavy rain overnight eased slightly, but not enough to entice us outside the hostel until after numerous cups of tea had been consumed. A bit of walking around to waterfalls cascading out of slot canyons above the gorge.

Giving the climbing legs another work out trying to get a better view of the falls.

On the bikes well after noon for a long ride down the valley beside the Ishikarigawa River. Bit of a headwind most of the day, but a lot of cycle trail and trees helped to make it even more pleasant.

Lack of traffic meant being able to stare more at the impressive canyon walls surrounding us.

A path on the outside of a galleria – more pleasant.

Out of the canyon, the valley opened up to rice farming land. We detoured to have second lunch in Kamikawa town – following a recommendation of hostel staff. Town quiet in the middle of a Saturday, but the melted cheese on pasta hot plate dish did not disappoint.

Getting back to our route gave the only climb of the day – all of fifty metres. The remaining twenty-five kilometres spent trying to find quiet gravel routes, but they didn’t always work out. Picturesque riding through the golden rice fields sped by; finding ourselves on stop bank cycling road near the end of the day, the elevated vantage point was appreciated.

Don’t think that bridge is going to get us across; backtracking involved.

River still looking dirty through these flood control gates.

Bypassing Aibetsu we thought we’d try to find somewhere a bit further downstream to camp. We found one of the most elaborate toilet block and gardens with picnic shelter we’d seen yet – away from all other people and roads. It was excellent. On the river side of the stop bank there was a small air strip. Investigation later showed that this strip hosts a large annual model aircraft meet – the toilet block just for that, as no other facilities around. Brilliant place to camp.

It was my turn to bike into town to get supplies. Less than five kilometres into Pippu I was treated to some beautiful evening light, as well as a quick ride on smooth trail with little load on the bike.

As if our little find of a camp spot couldn’t get any better, as we had our last cups of tea of the day we were treated to a large fireworks display beyond Pippu. Fantastic.

Asia, bikepacking, bikes, hiking, national park

Nukabira to Sounkyo

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Must have been cooler overnight, as first night in the sleeping bags (by now they’d come out of their bags and I tended to use mine as a duvet only). But soon another hot and humid day…

Another camp visitor at breakfast time. Well, we were the visitors – this one probably a local.

Out of Nukabira to spend the day getting deeper into Daisetsuzan National Park. First riding around Lake Nukabira reasonably flat and surrounded by lush forest. Rail remnants on both sides of the lake, old bridges the most visible. We’d heard all about the famed Phantom Bridge – a large viaduct on the other side of the lake that can only been seen when the lake is really low, usually later in the winter and early spring before the snow melt. But climate being what it is and the summer being really hot and dry…

We soon spotted it from afar.

Rachel towering over me as I muck around taking photos.

Further down the highway, we found a small walking path into the woods for a better view of the bridge. Crossing the former rail bed, it wasn’t far to the lake edge (well, what is normally the edge of the lake).

Looks a prime candidate for a rail trail.

Very tempting to ride along it, but previous experience reminds us that it might be blocked or a bridge out quite soon. Alas.

Back to the highway to find we may have entered a Mad Max world. What is this?!

Many deer around happy doing their thing next to passing cars and cyclists.

Oh, it’s a mower; even we could pass this.

Except one poor young deer got a little close to the traffic; Rachel showing her veterinary side and helping it off the road – little else to be done for it unfortunately.

Leaving the lake behind, an hour’s pleasant, forested, gradual climbing along the valley floor took us to the foot of the climb to Mizuyna Pass – the highest paved road in Hokkaido. Beautiful climbing and views back over the wild caldera. The civil engineering was striking too as we rode over some large viaducts to get to the top. Well, top of the road – of course there was a tunnel to avoid the last bit of the terrain.

Rachel’s photo.

But before the tunnel, a bonus – an unexpected, and open, cafe!

Very cute outside and in.

Coffee art was also top-notch, I’m told.

Also our introduction to cheese-on-doorstep-toast.

Recommended for hungry cyclists, or in general. I’m still disappointed I didn’t find a similarly excellent jug to buy and bring home.

To the tunnel! Relatively short, but cut out over a hundred metres more climbing.

Thirty kilometres mostly descending flew by.

Spotted a lot of these fake-trees – we assumed for avalanche control.

Flattening out a bit.

Water levels definitely low.

Rolling into the small alpine village of Sounkyo – only a few steep streets and some big empty waterways, we certainly wouldn’t be seeing any flash floods.

Jian, who we’d met a few days ago, told us of a hostel that offered half-price for long distance cyclists – couldn’t turn that down with the weather that was around. Having checked in and had lunch, we rushed off to the ropeway (cable car) to ascend out of the gorge to hike around a little in the cloud.

Typical flood control weir, barrier that we saw all over the country.

After the long cable car, a short walk to a long chairlift – starting to cool down exposed up here.

Village visible just, route of the chairlift obvious.

Suddenly up in the sub-alpine.

And with a bit of walking on the rocky trail, into the alpine.

The cloud kept blowing through, so at times we got a bit of a view of the plateau and then volcanic peaks and craters.

Heading for those buildings, a small lodge and even smaller store (!).

A good little base for further exploring; but we only had a few hours – so return to Sounkyo we must.

From the roof of the ropeway top station.

Most of Sounkyo village.

Jian recommended a ramen restaurant for dinner.

That was an excellent day with the varied riding, lifts and hiking taking us to great places.

Aus, family, national park, roadtrip, travel

Top End by campervan

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Into the Northern Territory, where the roads deteriorated markedly but perversely the speed limit went from 110 to 130 km/hr – not that the camper was worth driving at those speeds, 100 was plenty. The landscape of vast flat plains, occasionally interspersed with mesas, covered in low-density, low-height forests and scrub continued. We regularly saw controlled burns keeping the undergrowth in check, only once having the highway completely engulfed in smoke.

Posted observation points were welcome, they helped to break the driving. This one just short of Victoria River had a bonus walk up a hill in the sweltering heat.

Trees and rocks, with a bonus river.

Down to the roadhouse, with attached campground, the only facilities for many miles.

Said roadhouse, without all the vehicles belching diesel. Saw a bunch of big motorsport team trucks rolling through, a change from the preponderance of mining and cattle road trains. Found later the Supercar roadshow was moving from Perth to Darwin.

After not having seen a supermarket all week, a restock in Katherine was needed before heading to Nitmulik National Park for a couple of nights. The Three Gorge boat tour gave us the opportunity to sit, occasionally walk to another boat and learn about the gorge from a local. Towering cliffs and how the volume of water in the wet season has shaped the landscape were impressive.

This may be recognised from some films, but not by me.

Somewhat inexplicably to me, we had an hour to swim at Lily Ponds under a tall thread of a waterfall. About a third of the group got in the water, most else sat in the shade.

I found a marked track that involved plenty of rock-hopping and steep scrambling to the top of the waterfall. Much better view and more interesting up there.

The creek approaching the cliff.

Spot the tour group.

Further up the gorge, past where boats can reach – there are a lot of rocks around these parts.

On the return, the longer walk (not long) between boats and impassable rocks.

First crocodile in the wild for the trip.

Our guide pointed out a viewing platform up high as we neared the end of our boat trip, suggesting it was a good place to see the sunset. As it was the first time I’d seen significant clouds in the sky since our layover in Melbourne, I was hopeful it would be worth the walk and steep staircases. It was.

But first, different rocks! Curious conglomerations.

The start of the Kakadu Highway held the most engaging driving of the trip – especially in a seven metre long, three metre high van. Alas that didn’t last long, but probably good for Mum’s comfort and getting to Jabiru campground before dark. I was a bit under the weather for our two days there, unfortunately coinciding with the hottest weather of the trip – alarmingly close to forty degrees Celsius.

Better than your average water tower.

A little boat tour up the East Alligator River (no gators in Australia, only crocs – the river mistakenly named) was slightly cooler than staying on land. I found the local guide interesting, plenty told of how the local flora and fauna form part of their life. Not a lot of wildlife to be seen in the heat of the afternoon; more time in Kakadu and even getting into the vast, sparsely populated Arnhem Land would be cool.

Spot the fictional characters – Homer, E.T., Robocop…

Although not that far back to Darwin and campervan return, certainly less distance than we had generally been driving, we broke it up choosing to stay in the middle of nowhere. Bark Hut Inn had a great campground, adjoined to a roadhouse, built in an area that once was predominantly buffalo and croc hunting (the old modified Landcruisers with a lot of external steelwork looked plain mad). Disappointed by the lack of wildlife on the trip thus far, we booked one last boat tour on the nearby Corroberee Lagoon – thinking we had enough time to pack, clean the camper and drive to Darwin the following day.

It turned out to go swimmingly (except no-one literally went swimming for obvious reasons). An exceptional tour with a very knowledgeable guide who was only too happy to answer questions, show us what we wanted to see and keep us both amused and informed. Helped that we saw plenty too – here’s a little of it:

On that high, the campervan was returned on time leaving us a day and a bit to have a look around Darwin. With the Supercars in town for the weekend, the excellent night market at Mindil Beach was packed – but the city seemed deserted the following day. Perhaps it’s always like that, but it seemed an odd place. Give me the wilderness instead.