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bikepacking, bikes, NZ

Lindis Loop 23 – to the headwaters via Dromedary Hill

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Andy proposed two three-day windows around New Year for us to get back into the Lindis area. After last year’s excellent trip, I was dead keen – even if I hadn’t been doing a lot of riding recently and was below my normal fitness. The first window was a bit close to Andy’s spell of Covid, so the second it was. With no resupply options and a decidedly awful forecast on the last day, we packed a bit heavier – I even took a tent.

Our departure was brought forward to Tuesday afternoon in light of that forecast, we thought getting a headstart would help. Unfortunately it was stinking hot as we set off up the Dalrachney Dromedary Easement from Longslip Creek.

The valley floor riding was pleasant enough. Looking back east to the Wether Range.

Entering our first conservation area of the trip. Only five kilometres to Dromedary Hill summit.

How hard could that be? Just past those trees, the route turned sharply north and up. I was soon pushing as we were to climb almost nine hundred metres. A gradient averaging out around fifteen percent, there was plenty of sections around twenty percent. Don’t think I’ve ever pushed up steeper, unfortunately the surface was challenging too – hard to get a roll on. The two-step, press-up on the handlebars to push bike forward a little was in constant use for far too long. Hot and exhausting. But the views! They somewhat made up for it, admittedly not as much as usual though as it was such hard work.

We soon remembered that after last year’s trip we vowed only to return with unloaded bikes on day trips. Oops, here we were loaded again, with more gear on steeper terrain. I really didn’t have the strength or fitness for it.

Soon looking back on the valley we’d just left.

Gaining the ridge, looking north to the Ahuriri valley and the rounded Ohau Peak.

Thankfully we weren’t dropping to then climb those tracks.

Time to start heading up the ridge towards Dromedary summit. Andy’s pic.

A bit of ridge riding. Andy’s pic.

Still going, for now. Andy’s pic.

That must be back towards Omarama, didn’t realise at the time. Was probably too busy expiring.

A lot of the enjoyment from getting up that high is trying to piece the topography together. In this case we were trying to work out which one was and how we were getting up Pavilion Peak – and down the other side to the night’s planned Tin Hut shelter.

There it is on the right. The run down the ridge looks fun, and that’s without seeing the 500+ metre drop off the back.

But first, a little drop and more steepness up those switchbacks.

Getting closer, Mt Melina back left. Also, Melina Ridge track far left, which we’d climbed last year (easier than this one!) and planned for the next morning.

After four hours of heat, a mere sixteen kilometres and 1300 metres of climbing I was left staring at the last big climb – up Pavilion Peak. It looked nasty. Andy’s pic.

There was no way. I was spent, far too conscious of my heart racing far more than it ever really does (/had) and stomach feeling nauseous – nup, no energy for that climb. Thankfully we had escape options and Andy was very accommodating – I don’t think he was that keen for another such climb that night.

A fair reflection of how I was feeling about then; don’t think I’ve ever looked or felt so grim while out bikepacking! Andy’s pic.

Ah, it wasn’t going to be all downhill to get down.

Starting the descent, not at all upset at not going up there that night. Bit more concerned with how awful I was feeling however, bumping downhill not quite as much fun as it usually is.

Still looking over to Pavilion; we’d come down those switchbacks and turned left. Andy’s pic.

It took us an hour to get down to the valley floor, but we did at least manage to cover eight kilometres! Warp speed. Our camping spot adjacent to Lindis headwaters was lush and I was well pleased to be able to get, and keep, a large dehy meal down. I settled into my tent wondering how I’d feel in the morning and contemplated various routes back to my car. A tough evening on/next to the bike.

Addendum: Andy’s video of the whole trip. Some reminds me of all the tough pushing, and other bits of the views and fun riding.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Five Beaches

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With vague notions of meeting others for some long-weekend bikepacking not eventuating, when Gill posted about riding Five Beaches I was keen – it promised to be a leisurely ride and I didn’t have to drive far. Based on the first hundred kilometres of the inaugural Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour, it had somehow made it into last year’s Bikepacking Aotearoa – to my delight. Having not ridden the whole loop in one trip, it seemed a good use of a couple of days.

Mild autumn weather greeted us as I met Gill and Bernard in Waipukurau. Bikes assembled and cars stashed, we were off along very familiar roads. The backroads were typically quiet and I very much enjoyed seeing the area in a different season – still looking generally very dry, there was at least some colour remaining in the trees. With only sixty kilometres on the plan for the day, it was nice to take our time – plenty of food stops and general rests. Riding with Bernard a bit it was most gratifying to see his face light up with the delight of ever changing rural views – much how I felt the first time riding through here.

Old Hill Road ridge riding always a favourite.

In Porangahau before half-two, the day’s riding was pretty much done! Plenty of time for an ice cream and chat with Orlando at Flotsam and Jetsam – slowly possibilities for this year’s HBAT are interesting me. Bernard was keen to see the world’s longest place name, so we duly obliged with a short detour before heading for the campground at the beach.

Camp made, there was so much time to spare. Into the westerly, we returned to town for dinner at the pub. Outside the diary we found two more bikepackers (also from Wellington) with fish and chips. Turned out we’d spied them removing bikes from their van as we started off; more delight to learn that they were also following the Five Beaches route and thoroughly enjoying it. We ditched the pub idea and went for burgers and chips – tasty.

Barely dark returning to camp, after showering and a cup of tea I was unsure what to do with all the extra time. Nine o’clock wasn’t too early to snuggle into my tent for a good night’s sleep? I hope not, as that’s what I did – on a very mild night, despite the clear skies. With good company it had been a fantastic relaxing day, after finally breaking nineteen minutes at parkrun with some effort.

An even more glorious day dawned for us Sunday, a bit of breeze overnight keeping our little tent collection pretty dry. Not having two days to spare to ride the remaining hundred-plus kilometres, I bid farewell to the Wellington crew and set off for the rest of the beaches and Waipukurau – a gentle breeze behind me.

The hills seemed smaller than previously, the wind must have been stronger than I thought. A strange amount of traffic passed me on Blackhead Rd, but that hardly slowed me in reaching the Blackhead to Pourerere beach section just before low tide. With few people around and that wind, it was far easier on the hard packed sand than my previous visit. A beautiful morning to soak in the sun and scenery.

With so much space, I got to practice snapping photos while riding in the opposite direction.

First of the two hills of note dealt with, Clareinch Rd is always a delight. Finally I made the short detour to see a sixth beach – Mangakura. With far fewer houses, it was for many years a private beach on a farm – but over time a small number of sections were divided amongst the family and some then sold on. I learnt all this from a friendly family that farm back on Ugly Hill Rd (which forms part of the start of the route) and they were happy to share some history, and top up my water bottle.

Just up the road was the fifth of the five beaches, Kairakau; it was easy to pop down there and see it again. Not so easy turning back into the wind. Up the other hill of note for the day, the wind didn’t make the drop down to the Tukituki that fast – but the Patangata Tavern appeared for lunch sooner than I was expecting.

With the last of the rural scenes still showing autumn colours, I was back in Waipawa and soon Waipukurau having had a thoroughly enjoyable day and a bit on the wee Five Beaches route. It’s like someone knew the type of riding I like.


bikepacking, bikes, event, friends, GPS, NZ

GSB21-7: Ranfurly to Tekapo

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Two hundred and twenty kilometres left of the course, it was identical to my last twenty hours of GSB19. So no surprises to be had, and although it was a far longer distance than any day I’d ridden that week – with only two small (in comparison) passes, good surfaces all day, the southerly still blowing well and simply knowing I have and can ride such days – I was wondering if we’d get to the finish. However it was interesting to hear the talk of riding buddies throughout the day – general consensus was that it would be nice to camp approaching the last pass and enjoy another night out, around seventy kilometres from Tekapo; getting all the way to Tekapo would blow many ever-increasing longest-daily-distances completely out of the water.

It sounded nice, and I had been trying to slow down a bit – so I was willing to give that a try. I mean, what was the rush? We’d been having a great time out here, why hurry back and end it? Still, I was wondering how it would play out. With the riding going to be pretty benign compared to the much tougher days we’d all just done, would people really stop so early in the day with such a short distance to go? Fascinating.

Thankfully the Ranfurly store and cafe opened at seven, as after the long haul from Roxburgh and getting in late we very much needed to resupply. The southerly pushed us up the gentle rise to Naseby and around the water race (last seen way back on Day Two) through the forest. I thought I’d warm up, but after two hours of riding I struggled to do so – so a brief layover in Naseby to thaw out a bit. It worked a treat and I continued on the familiar road out of town.

Easy ascent to Naseby, enjoying the sunlight while it lasted.

Turn towards Danseys Pass, before the climbing begins in earnest, I simply can’t go past the Dansey’s Pass Hotel. Especially when there are GSB bikes outside. It never disappoints and it was nice to find some company; the tea and scones probably helped.

Leaving with Dave, it was good to finally spend some time riding together. There’s rarely traffic up here, and with the road only just reopening the day before, it was easy to ride alongside chatting away. The climbing was easy with the wind pushing us up the hill, but it was still cold. Nearing the pass itself, it got rather bleak so it was time for more layers for the soon drop to the lavender farm.

I’d remembered the big climb soon after, but the extent of it always surprises me. At least it was warming and the long downhill to Duntroon was most pleasant. Previously bouncing around between Dave and Eileen, I was promptly dropped as the road flattened – as is my tendency. Time for a decent snack break at the start of the twenty-five kilometre Alps2Ocean section to Kurow, that didn’t ward off a flat section for me. Not an engaging section of trail, and having turned into a strong wind I was slow and not having a great time. I did amuse me to see the giant stand of willows I rather hilariously got lost in at midnight last time around, and I could see how it happened – route finding down the fluid river bed was difficult enough in broad daylight, let alone nineteen hours and 240+ kilometres into a day at the end of a challenging week. At least this time I had a better idea of where to go.

Eventually I made it into Kurow (about halfway to Tekapo) around three o’clock, tuckered out and just a bit low – in part because such a fantastic week was drawing to an end. But there was food to be had and the wind would soon be helpful again on a gorgeous afternoon. Not finding my first pie of the week at the convenience store, the cafe across the road was a far better option. Both Dave and Katie were struggling to finish comically large potato wedges (most bigger than my hand, some almost as thick as my wrist), apparently the burgers were as ridiculously oversized – but I’ll have to visit again to find out.

Fuelled up, we left the cafe in dribs and drabs, the talk still seeming to be of camping out somewhere – I was highly skeptical by now. It’s funny how things can seem to change so quickly (of course, nothing much has really changed but on such rides, one’s mindset is such a large component), with music near blaring from my phone and a faintly ridiculous sing-a-long in progress I felt like I charged up the small hill after crossing the Waitaki. Pleased with this burst of energy and lightened mood, I was not letting it go to waste – especially as I’d had such a tough final hundred kilometres last time around. In high spirits and actually enjoying the long, very gentle gravel climb up the valley Katie was soon hauled in and plenty of chat (another deserted, wide gravel road) ensued, the kilometres flying by – not wholly due to comparing it to the long tedious drag up here in 2019.

Early evening by now, and with only sixty kilometres to go and as the approach to the pass pitched up, it was time for a big rest stop and refuel – admiring the view as Dave, to our amusement, pulled out a large box and proceeded to try and unload the wedges (quite the anchor). We still couldn’t finish them between us, I’m sure he still had them the next morning – perhaps they even fuelled his Kiwi Brevette ride this last week?

As nice as it was there was no talk of camping anymore, we simply kept riding.

Slowly the gradient increased.

Approaching the pass – such pleasant riding conditions, it was hardly troublesome.

Obligatory. 45 km? Simple…

I mean, it looks all downhill.

Much fun on the descent off the pass; surprised to see a tent this early and close to the finish, we stopped briefly to chat to Tony and Karen, who had started a day late and a day around the course and looked to be having a grand time fast-touring the route. Camp chairs, seriously?!

Downhill finished, I’d remembered the horrible traverse across the widened valley to the highway. That helpful southerly was now a very strong head-crosswind. Slowly we climbed to the highway, sixteen kilometres of good road took us almost an hour. But soon enough we were at the busy highway, donning as many flashing lights as possible, for the final run into town. Almost an hour gradually climbing on the highway with a beautiful evening sky, we were pretty spent and each glad for the company; with the final drop into town, we’d almost made it!

Rounding the lakeshore to the Church of the Good Shepherd we were very pleased to be finishing after that section of highway. Hang on, what’s all this noise? Alarmingly, bewilderingly and unseen on any of the dozen or so bikepacking events I’ve done, a lot of cheering, clapping and general celebration was coming from a fair group of fellow riders and company. It was slightly overwhelming, usually one is lucky if there are two people at the end of one of these.

Photo: Dave King


Video: Dave King

But so very cool to be welcomed home by bikepacking friends old and new, what a great way to finish the week. Handshakes, hugs and finish line beers – pretty fortunate. Especially in light of the subsequent comments from friends abroad about how thoroughly normal the video above looks; but after a year of pandemic raging overseas, also how utterly surreal it all looked. Yet another reminder to get out and make the most of the freedom we have for who-knows-how-long down at the bottom of the world.

Pretty happy about that ride. Photo: Dave King

How good is this?! Photo: Dave King

Light finally fading, we rode back to the lakeside lodge for some quick barbecue leftovers, I found some cleaner non-bike clothes before hurriedly piling into vehicle again heading for the finish. Eileen and Joe were riding in, and I think they were similarly overwhelmed by the reception! Perhaps more so as they finished just as night surrounded us – all the noise out of the darkness must have been even more jarring. After having ridden so much with Eileen and seen her daily distances records continually smashed, it was very exciting to see her first 200+ km day completed to finish the route at least a day and a half earlier than originally expected.

Back at the lodge, the party continued – although being pretty tired and hungry I may have missed most of it? Still, excellent reminiscing of the week past. I don’t know what it is about the GSB (is it the route, the terrain, the scenery, the people?); the last one had such a profound effect on me, I’d spent two years waiting for this edition. Even though expectations changed with the recent shoulder dislocation and this one was quite different for me, all goals were met – shoulder survived, found some fitness, saw beautiful places, slowed down and enjoyed more riding with others – and some lessons were learned too. Nonetheless, only two weeks since, the effects are still just as profound and I can’t wait for the next one!

Thanks to Dave and crew for all the organising, and all the people who shared the ride along the way.