Category Archives: Asia

Asia, city, Europe, history, travel

Catch-up photos from Istanbul

Leave a comment

A few pictures from my first two days in Istanbul that have now made it off my camera.

Beautiful domed ceilings in Topkapi Palace Museum

Cityscape from Topkapi Palace Museum

More intricate decoration

There were odd pockets of brightly coloured houses

Inside Hagia Sophia Museum

So many cables holding up all the lights

Hagia Sophia

Sultan Ahmed Mosque (the Blue Mosque)

Seaside amusements by the Sea of Marmara, there at least ten of these “shoot an air-rifle at things” stalls – you can’t see the people swimming just out of shot

Across the Golden Horn – Galata Tower in the background

New Mosque – near Galata Bridge

Leaving Istanbul on a Bosphorus ferry

At the Black Sea end of the Bosphorus – near Anadolu Kavagi

The view from the castle in the previous photo – that’s the Black Sea yonder

Many beautiful palaces & houses line the Bosphorus

The view from Galata Tower

Galata Bridge across the Golden Horn & New Mosque – from Galata Tower

Asia, city, Europe, travel

Bosphorus Cruising

1 Comment

I saw a completely different side of Istanbul today as I got the very reasonably priced ferry up the Bosphorus. It does make a few stops along the way, but seems to be mostly used by tourists. For some reason I’d always thought the Bosphorus was a dirty, mucky waterway mostly used by commercial boats. That may be to do with one end being at the Black Sea and the connotations of that name. Interestingly there are two currents (countercurrent naturally) – the one on the surface is due to a height differential, while the one down below is due to a concentration differential (salinity) between the Black and the Marmara Seas.

But on another stunning warm & clear day, the Bosphorus turned out to be an exceptionally beautiful stretch of water. For most of the ninety minute trip Istanbul kept stretching towards the end of the Strait. It wasn’t more of the same housing either – there were many palatial buildings and it was easy to see why some of the highest property prices in the world are here. Istanbul surprises again. Many nice yachts and other boats too.

At the end of the route there was three hours to occupy before the ferry headed back. I, & many others, climbed fifteen minutes up to an old castle to get a glimpse of the Black Sea – which is more of the same vivid blue. Back down at the dockside town, I shared a seabass with a group of Americans I’d met on the boat. They were on a faculty trip from some liberal arts college in Allentown, PA. Once I told them I’d spent a month just down the road in Doylestown, I was very well received.

There were a few big tankers & naval ships to see on the return voyage – as well as some wonderfully turned out polished wooden launches. Back in town, I crossed the Golden Horn & climbed up to the base of Galata Tower – which was closing just as I got there yesterday. Unfortunately you are not allowed to climb up it, just take the elevator. Decent views of the city – the only picture I have to share today.

On the way down the hill I found myself in yet another market. Belwilderingly, yet interestingly, this market near a lot of tourists, seemed to be given over to small process and maintenance equipment. I was eying up things that we need in the plant back at work. Alas, the photos of that are on my camera – so the only person who is likely to care, Farmer Liz, will have to wait.

Asia, bikes, family, MTB, travel

From the archive – Thailand & Nepal – IV

Leave a comment

[The diary that I compiled during our visit to Adele in Nepal in January & February 2008 came up in conversation the other day. As far as I know only Mum & I have ever read it – so here is part of it for posterity, the photos are complimentary – yeah, they are for free.]

9/2/8 Pokhara

Large breakfast at Mike’s, tried to sort out our huge amounts of gear for the trip home – it is one big mess on our floor at the moment, and that is without my bike. Cleaned mud & my blood off my bike. Dad & I & random Belgian girl from Blue Planet went to International Mountaineering museum – a quiet day all round.

10/2/8 Pokhara

Up for ride up to World Peace Stupa/Pagoda on the hill opposite Lakeside. Nice clear morning with good views of the mountains. An hour riding to almost the summit (the stupa is below the summit) – half an hour up main road to Tanseng, then half an hour up rocky track through one or two villages. On the way down great views of the Annapurnas & Pokhara & the lake – a few photo stops. A nice mixture of gravel track, rocky technical singletrack, stone steps & flowy singletrack through forest. Six kilometres down in all – good fun.

Not much else for the rest of the day – a farewell lunch for Adele with her INF mates, Skyped Mum in Sydney & dinner at Monsoon.

11/2/8 Pokhara

Breakfast at Mike’s again as everyone is busy at Blue Planet getting ready for Madu’s wedding. Repacking bike for third time in three weeks. Adele dressed up in kurta for the wedding. As I hadn’t shaved since before trekking, I popped down to the barbers for a shave & haircut. The first five minutes of my haircut, I could have been in a Python sketch – the guy was snip-snip-snipping away merrily but I could feel nothing & see no hair coming off my head in the mirror. The only thing missing (I think) was the homicidal maniac resisting the urge to cut my head off.

Dad & I tried to catch a taxi to the temple on the other side of town. The driver had to get directions from someone else before we left & then managed to drop us at a Buddhist monastery (incidentally, I finished reading “Seven Years in Tibet” this morning). Never mind, ten minutes walk & a few turns later we were at the bottom of a large flight of stairs that led up a large forested hill – at the top of which sat the temple. There wasn’t one large temple at the top; rather, there were a few small temple buildings & a fair amount of open paved ground.

It took Dad & I a while to find which wedding to go to as it was like a common wedding ground. Perhaps there were seven to ten separate weddings today – as it is the last good day of the Nepali/Hindu month to get married. Eventually we saw some badeshis (foreigners – one of the few Nepalese words I know) we recognised & headed over to see what was the go. The bride was beautifully dressed in red with a lot of sequins sparkling in the sun waiting with her friends & family for the groom to turn up (c.f. Western wedding).

After we had spent some time looking at all that was going on & sussed out some of the other weddings in progress, the food started. Somewhat sceptical of the Nepali food prepared en masse & served outside, I only had half a plate for a change & Dad only really had rice.

As we finished eating the first part of the ceremony started with some ritual of the bride sitting on the ground in front of a small fire surrounded by plates of food & her father & uncles doing I don’t know what. Eventually the groom appeared & the priest (I assume he was) started the ceremony proper. It was all very solemn & the priest sounded like he was arguing (that would be the five minute argument, please) with others around him. It was all very strange as there was only a small throng around the bride & groom (mostly us curious westerners), while every one chowed down on the feast some distance away or talked on their cellphones. I still have no understanding of what happened. The bride & groom ate (after everyone else already had) & then there was more ceremony, still no smiles & much putting of red dye on the ‘happy’ couple’s foreheads. Dad & I left about here & went back to the important task of cleaning & packing up my bike.

When Adele arrived back exhausted, we went for a paddle on a hired boat on a very still Phewa Tal. Then our best dinner yet in Nepal at Bistro Caroline with a Dutch friend of Adele’s.

12/2/8 Pokhara – Kathmandu

All packed up, goodbyes to all at Blue Planet & Shyam took us on our final taxi ride to Pokhara airport. True to form, the flight was due to be at least an hour late to bad weather in Kathmandu, or perhaps they had sent the planes elsewhere – I never really worked out which one. After an exhaustive manual search of our luggage (no X-Ray machine) – in which it was determined that my bike, was in fact a bike – we waited out the weather on the rooftop balcony in the sun. As we were drinking yet another pot of Nepali milk tea, who should turn up but some of Adele’s INF friends? Al was flying to Kathmandu, then somewhere else & her husband Phil & daughter Evie were seeing her off.

Their company somewhat helped to pass the time as we saw microlights land & take off & the Jonsom flight leave, return & leave again. Eventually, three flights from Kathmandu arrived at once & we were in the air one and a half hours later. Yet another pleasant twenty-five minute Yeti flight with great views of the Himalayas to the north.

Once we arrived in Kathmandu, Adele was keen to head out to Bhaktapur. Due to various reasons, we didn’t leave until after 1500 – a forty-five minute drive – but was worth it to arrive in the old city with some places having no vehicles – & therefore no horns, bliss!

Had a good wander around & I took Adele & Dad through some small back street before we met our driver at 1800.

The Kathmandu traffic back was diabolical – for no other reason that there are insufficient roads, no road rules observed & no enforcement if there were any rules. We got back after a hundred minutes.

Great steak dinner & surprisingly quick meals at the Everest Steak House.

13/2/8 Kathmandu – Bangkok

Adele’s final Nepali shopping in Thamel, then off to Kathmandu airport for quick check-in & then long wait for flight to Bangkok. Pleasant enough flight back in to the heat of Bangkok. Adele marvelled at every item of food at the buffet after three months in Nepal – much to my amusement. Nice to be away from Kathmandu – the powercuts had got to eight hours per day.

14/2/8 Bangkok

Wandered around getting Adele orientated with Bangkok & shopping/browsing at the same time. Adele & I booked a day trip for tomorrow – a bus ride out into the country, look at the royal summer palace & temples (some ruined, some not).

15/2/8 Bangkok

Up before 0600 for breakfast & tour. A minivan picked us up & drove us around town for half an hour until we rendezvoused with our coach at some other hotel. Quickly on to motorway out of town west & leaving Bangkok behind eventually. Past large flat paddies (c.f. with the small, stepped rice paddies in Nepal).

We first visited the summer palace at Bang Pa In – lots of magnificent buildings for all the royals to stay in – one donated by the Chinese, one with a distinctly European style.

Adele particularly like the animal shaped topiaries (especially the elephants).

Next on to one of Thailand’s four capitals – Ayuthaya (1350-1767). This was all in ruins as the Burmese invaded in 1767 & destroyed a lot of it. Still some very large ruins of brick temples & stupas remain. Most of the many Buddhas are sitting down without any heads. On to other temples where we saw a greenstone Buddha, a gold Buddha & the third largest reclining Buddha.

Finally made it to the boat after 1300 (sick of getting in & out of coach by now), where we had a large buffet lunch & a pleasant three hour cruise in to the city.

16/2/8 Bangkok

Down to the tailors to get Adele’s pants – she was most pleased with them. Adele was keen to get a tuk-tuk on the way back, but there weren’t many around & every one we approached wanted to take us somewhere else except our hotel. We gave up & got at $2 (equivalent) taxi instead.

Lunch at hotel & then me Alex & Sarah van Meygaarden in lobby. Alex was my metalwork teacher in my first year at high school. They are now missionaries here in Bangkok with Rahab (as are the MacGregors – who unfortunately are back in NZ now; it turns out that they only live about 500m from our hotel). It was good to catch up with the Vans & hear some of their stories of Bangkok & Nepal. Alex told of a mega computer mall just around the corner, so I had to check it out. It was crazy – six storeys of computers, ripped software & DVDs, components & of course people everywhere! Home tomorrow!

17/2/8 Bangkok – Auckland

There must have been some of the famed Australian wine Shateau de Chunder on the menu last night – it really opens up the sluices at both ends. So we are not so sure Adele will make the 12 hour flight home. Not much happening, Adele bunged herself up with med’s & we made the flight home.

18/2/8 Auckland

Home – with little sleep!

Asia, family, hiking, national park

From the archive – Thailand & Nepal – III

Leave a comment

[The diary that I compiled during our visit to Adele in Nepal in January & February 2008 came up in conversation the other day. As far as I know only Mum & I have ever read it – so here is part of it for posterity, the photos are complimentary – yeah, they are for free.]

3/2/8 Trekking

Up at 0600 to catch plane to Jonsom with our guide, KB. Too much cloud, so we can’t go to Jonsom. Mum leaves us today – one night in Kathmandu & then on to see the Hinds in Sydney.

So a eighty to ninety minute taxi ride with Shyam deposited us at the start of our circuit (modified a lot as we can’t go to Jonsom). The first couple of hours were spent walking up a river valley from about 1000m altitude. After a long lunch, the climbing really started, but the path was well made using lots of stone – quite incredible how good it was.

Walked through many fields & the tiering of the fields was amazing. By 1630 we were at Ghandruk – after many steps & a few rests. We have climbed almost 1000m to 1950m. This was quite a shock for us all, especially Dad, as we were expecting to walk down from Muktinah after a jeep ride from Jonsom!

Pleasant guesthouse – great hot shower & dinner – part with KB. He spent eleven years from age eight washing dishes at a Kathmandu guesthouse before he started guiding. He has also spend two and a half years in France – his French & English are very good.

4/2/8 Monday Trekking

Forgot to mention that while paragliding on Friday, Pierre & I saw an occidental rainbow when were up in the clouds. This is a circular rainbow viewed from above, apparently they are not seen by many.

Awoke in Ghandruk (actually awoke numerous time due to barking dogs in the night) to find that the clouds had finally cleared & we could see the mountains! A nice clear crisp morning & we could see all the way to Annapurna South & Fishtail (I may be able to say its real name – but I sure can’t spell it). A leisurely breakfast, then set off at 0845 for a comparatively short & easy walk to Tadapani (a climb of only about 600m today).

We quickly left the immaculate stone path & steps of yesterday & the path devolved in to something much more like what we would find in NZ – steps made out of wood & held by stakes.

As we were walking through forest/bush (c.f. with fields of yesterday) we saw far fewer Nepalis & houses. At our first stop we saw a family from Lake Hayes (back home). There were five of them – three boys, the youngest in a backpack. Next we saw an inordinate number of porters, but no trekkers. Eventually we find a very large group of Japanese trekkers sprawled over one of the few clearings. By now we are seeing patches of snow on the ground.

Our next stop was at the top of a very steep staircase. Here the Cokes were most welcome & we met a medical student from Perth – she is doing a similar thing to what Adele has just finished.

During the last hour to Tadapani the snow got more & more prevalent & it was quite fresh & nice & powdery. At times it was difficult to negotiate the slippery downs – but there were not so many of them! As we were behind a ridge, our view of the mountains had disappeared & when we emerged from the forest the clouds had covered our view again.

Tadapani is a pretty little settlement of mainly guesthouses (about six). There is no water here at the moment – except if you cook up a pot of snow. There are more trekkers staying here than at Ghandruk last night (most people seem to be going the opposite way to us). Some have come down from Poon Hill – they had good views this morning.

5/2/8 The Day We Almost Killed Dad

Up at 0645 after broken sleep – Nepali singing to start with & then too warm. Did not mention that we spent most of yesterday afternoon in the dining room as underneath the table (that was cloaked with think blankets) were steel buckets of hot coals – very toasty. Another beautiful morning – fewer clouds than yesterday & once again great views – many photos taken.

Started walking at 0830 & were immediately into a steep snowy, & therefore slippery, descent. Once we reached a stream it was back into a steep slippery ascent. By now, both Dad & I had taken small falls & all three of us were walking with sticks. Still there is a lot of snow around & I generally find it easier to walk on the powder than the icy steps.

After a brief stop for Coke & Fanta, the track levelled a bit & then went down for a while. Unfortunately for Dad, after this it went up & up a valley (quite steeply in places & very slippery) that never ended. Eventually we reached lunch & Dad was stuffed & Adele carrying his backpack as well as hers. We had lost our view of the mountains, but seen many waterfalls frozen in situ.

Shortly after our long lunch break the trail flattened out some & a few new peaks came in to view. The trail was now along a ridge – so undulating walking around 3300m, the highest I have ever been with my feet on the ground. By now we could see Annapurna I – the tallest of the Annapurnas at 8091m – behind & to the left of Annapurna South. Also visible a bit further away were the Dhaulagiris – the tallest of which, Dhaulagiri I is 8172m. Numerous stops to take photos & wait for Dad along the ~500m descent to Ghorepani.

There are many more guesthouses, & larger ones too, & for the princely sum of seventy rupees we have a view of Annapurna I & South & Dhaulagiri I from our room.

6/2/8 Trekking

Adele & I up at 0445 – along with most of the rest of the guesthouse (Dad & KB excepted) for the walk up to Poon Hill lookout for sunrise. All wrapped & out in to the dark & the not so cold before 0530. The climb was a good five or six hundred metres with many headlamps bobbing up the hillside – similar sight to doing the Moonride. Unfortunately, I had made the mistake of not having anything to eat. Part way up I started to feel clammy, devoid of energy & could not go on until I had dry wretched a few times, brought up some bile & then had half a muesli bar. Slowly my energy returned & we made it to the top. It was still dark, but starting slowly to get light. We were eventually joined by about fifty other sunrise pilgrims to see a great sunrise on some of the world’s tallest mountains.

Back down, we had a leisurely breakfast outside in the sun & left Ghorepani at 1000 for a gentle (mostly) walk down the valley toward Tatopani (tomorrow night’s stop). The stone pathway returned (not quite up to the same standard as the first day – but still pretty good) & it was only icy & snowy in parts for the first hour or so. Still good views of most of the mountains, but getting in to inhabited land with the odd village & more paddies.

We are staying in Shikha, which for a nice change is much more village than guesthouse destination. There are numerous stone houses & a school here. Adele & I had a small wander around the back roads (more alley ways). A great shower & we also had lunch on the rooftop in the sun looking at Dhaulagiri I. Mercifully, we are the only guests in the guesthouse – c.f. the last two nights.

7/2/8 Trekking

Up & away by 0830 – a nice walk down the valley from Shikha to Tatopani for three hours. We lost about a thousand metres in altitude. Nice to walk through the villages & past the children on the way to school – ten o’clock start. Our last glimpses of the Annapurnas as we get deeper in to the valley – still mostly the big stone steps & paths, although it is quite a dusty trail in places. Dad managed to get a few agricultural photos – piles of dung in fields that will be used for fertiliser & a cow & calf in a milking shed.

Down at the bottom of the valley we crossed the Ghar Khola river & then the much larger (unnamed on the map) river on swing bridges & walked up the valley a short way to Tatopani. This last bit was on the newly made & graded road. This is much less interesting & we are going to head back to Pokhara tomorrow, instead of Saturday. Soaked in hot springs/pool late in the afternoon.

8/2/8 Trekking – Pokhara

It’s our last day – up & left by 0820 (our earliest yet) after a good sleep. Walking down the new road down the valley the whole way. It was quite a deep gorge in places & would have been a spectacular walk on the old stone path.

The valley was still really spectacular when one remembered to look up from the road at the steep walls & behind us to Jonsom & the odd mountain still visible. The road is pretty wide in places & almost complete. We saw a group of about fifteen men breaking rocks in to gravel with small hammers. Also a twenty tonne excavator finishing off part of the road next to the river – quite a juxtaposition in technologies.

In places there were jeeps, motorbikes, taxis & quite a few people walking. In other places there was just us & a random stray dog that followed us for ages. By lunch we had all, especially Dad, had enough of walking on the boring road & got a jeep (an old Nissan Patrol) to Beni & then taxi ride of death back to Pokhara.