Category Archives: bikepacking

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, national park, NZ

HBOP 2 – Waihi Rd to Whirinaki via Moerangi Track

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A brisk morning greeted us, thankfully there were some rollers to warm us up a tad before dropping down to cross the Waikaretakehe and head towards the lake. Clouding over as we reached Piripaua power station – the lower of three in the scheme. Surprised again to show Pete a new road, we got off the main road and climbed gravel up to the quaint dam town of Tuai.

Across Lake Whakamarino to the Tuai power station.

Remembering my first ride through here, I was sure we could avoid the sealed section of Lake Rd and ascend beside the penstocks.

Over twenty percent, it wasn’t the easy option – but it was quiet.

It flattened out ever so slightly.

Finding the upper power station, Kaitawa, I figured we’d done enough pushing – heading for the main road it was for the last climbing up to Lake Waikaremoana. The precipitation ranged from mist to mizzle to drizzle, we arrived at the average store well in time for mid-morning pies – even if we had to microwave them ourselves. Still a little surprised to be riding mid Hawke’s Bay summer in rain and 10ºC, we were making good time and should make it to cafe at Ruatahuna before the two o’clock closure.

The moisture did at least damp the dust on the long stretch of gravel – and keep the traffic volumes low. It really was quite pleasant, even if we didn’t see quite as much as usual – the sights were different.

Across Whanganui Inlet

Leaving the lake and heading north.

I wouldn’t have been too surprised if that sign proved correct.

A longer climb took us up to the watershed and deposited us in the other Bay – the Bay of my childhood, Bay of Plenty. As we hoped, dropping quickly we soon left the clouds behind and found some warmth – and an open cafe. The menu was a bit restricted due to illness, but the frybread fish burger went down very easily – along with a pot of tea.

Is that the fish or the frybread?

Heading for the Moerangi Track and perhaps a night in a backcountry hut, we stocked up a little at the store before a pleasant stretch alongside the upper Whakatane River. I do so enjoy riding this area and each time piecing a little bit more of the geography together in my mind. Disavowing some poor lost young fullas that they were on the way to Whakatane, they soon turned and passed us again. Another climb and descent over, we headed up Okahu Rd towards the trailhead. The sudden increase in gradient at the end of the road was not as long as I remembered and by three-thirty we were heading into thirty-five kilometres of Grade 4 singletrack. I was hopeful we’d get out by dark, but a lot would depend on trail condition.

Ever so slightly more rugged gravel road riding.

Not quite looking up in time…

At the top of the first climb, back in Hawke’s Bay and admiring the ferns.

A nice section led us over ever-skinnier bridges, some rideable, some not, and down to Skips Hut.

Where it promptly began to rain again.

Up and over another couple of ridges, it was nice to be out in the late afternoon sun at Roger’s Hut.

Pete emerging from the mature native forest.

The next section to Moerangi Hut climbed steadily, a bit more technical, most was rideable but at times it made more sense to push one’s bike a little. Another break in the sun, snacking, at the hut was called for before the concerted spin and push to the high point of the track. Enjoyable as the long, bumpy descent is – maybe one day I’ll do it on an unloaded full-suspension bike. Occasional breaks in the forest cover gave glimpses of more bush and forest stretching to distant landmarks as the light faded. Just lovely.

At the far trail end by eight o’clock, three and a half hours of riding time with a loaded bike seemed quite reasonable. I was hoping whoever was at the Recreation Camp ten kilometres down a gravel road would take kindly to two smelly bikepackers invading and requesting a small patch of the giant lawn to camp on. The group of five families were lovely and plied us with tea, marshmallows to toast on the fire and a gazebo to sleep in – all we had to offer were, astonishing to them, tales of our day’s ride.

What a day it was too – not an easy day by any stretch (there were a few hills), but with plenty to see and some good breaks in the weather most enjoyable to be out exploring.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

HBOP 1 – After work Friday to Waihi Rd shack

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Having driven little-known forestry roads to get to the fabulous Moerangi Track last winter, on the return home I couldn’t get the idea of an ambitious weekend bikepacking loop out of my mind. With minimal driving after work on a Friday, many Hawke’s Bay and some Bay of Plenty backroads could be explored. That night, HBOP was compiled; it only took until mid-summer to find a free weekend to ride it (worth noting that the winter weather was warmer than much of the weekend we just had!). Pete, with similar inclinations to explore new backroads (although I’m surprised there’s much of the North Island he’s not ridden) and much more time than me for such trips, was keen to join in – didn’t get any other takers, can’t imagine why.

So with a cool, cloudy and damp weekend forecast we drove the road north from work and started riding at half-four. The thirty kilometres of highway was lumpy and quiet enough – bringing back memories of HBAT. The south-easterly, while cooling, was also at our backs and continued to help as we turned inland and climbed Putere Road. Past the Cricklewood turn-off, we dropped suddenly to Putere and Pete was on new roads. The Panekiri Range (that which is far more imposing from the far side of Lake Waikaremoana) was startlingly close, but shrouded in cloud.

Seems there are quite a few farms up here; we were on to Waireka Rd, leaving three others to return to and explore completely in the future.

I stopped and snapped a photo of Lake Rotonuiaha for, quite randomly, a fishing app that I was contacted out of the blue about.

The descent to the Waiau River was steep gravel, it would have been much faster but due to the grade was some of the most corrugated gravel I’ve ridden in a long time. No wonder steep rural roads around these parts are often sealed in part.

A pause over the Waiau. Now I was on new roads, huzzah!

Heading upstream, things were momentarily flat; over a cattle stop and we turned away from the river and begun to climb. As Pete remarked, you know it’s remote when the pasture is not fenced from the road. We startled a herd of cattle, I don’t think they see many bikes, and they ran off ahead of us. Thankfully they were not corralled on the road and didn’t get too scary. A bit more climbing and a couple of switchbacks later we found them again.

Looking south over the Waiau, that prow in the background demands closer investigation; March: hopefully I can get back up here.

Surrounded by hills, everything was new – climbing four hundred metres steadily, I enjoyed trying to pick out the road across the valley in the gathering gloom. The folds in the hills as things darkened were fascinating, I certainly was looking forward to returning in some light.

Pleasingly, the drop to the Mangaone Stream didn’t steal all our hard-gained altitude. Nine o’clock by now, I was starting to fade and look for suitable shelter while Pete edged further ahead of me. We regained all the height we’d just lost before spying a tumbledown old building. We never worked out what it once was (unusual shearers’ quarters, perhaps), but it had a roof, walls and most of a floor. Luxury – who needs doors and windows anyway? I thought it might be exposed to the southerly, but it wasn’t too bad – we settled in for a decent night’s sleep. Assuredly a most excellent finish to the week – five hours of riding, plenty of climbing through some stunning hills, little traffic, good company and charming shelter to boot.

Huddled together in a corner for fear of falling.

Saturday morning view.

A palace to us.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, event, MTB, NZ

The Christmas Letter 2019

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Catching some time as I fly south for Christmas, there’s a chance to sit, consider and write of the year. Naturally, there was much biking. Without any really big trips (longer than a week), I’m pleased to have consistently ridden all year and clocked up my biggest year yet – ticking over eleven thousand kilometres yesterday on my last commute of the year.

The longest ride of the year was way back in January, the Great Southern Brevet, which turned out to be the toughest one I’ve done yet. After being blown off my bike four days in a row, I’ve a new standard for windiness. Fantastic scenery and good company accompanied the challenge and it was a satisfying finish – I look forward to the next one, and more exploring around that area.

Day Two of the GSB, a short section of Otago Central Rail Trail – before we got up high and the wind hit.

A late evening ride up Danseys Pass.

All other bikepacking for the year was North Island focused – much close to home as I thoroughly enjoyed planning and scouting the first Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour. Through a mild and dry winter, much exploring of back roads led to a 550 km route from the south to the north of the province. I’d have happily done all that work so I could ride it solo, so I was thrilled that thirteen of us set off together and nine made it to the end on Mahia Peninsula over many hills. In the two months since then, a couple of low-key overnighters from Napier have been well attended and enjoyed; satisfying and such fun to share some local routes with others.

South from Te Apiti Station towards Kairakau.

HBAT departing Waipawa.

Heading to Waipatiki for the last and shortest overnighter of the year.

Strangely, I also entered a MTB race – the quintessential Hawke’s Bay event, Triple Peaks. For the first time since I’ve lived here, the forecast was good – meaning that all three summits would be included. For a MTB race, there was a lot of hike-a-bike and as the name suggests – plenty of climbing. That suited me well, and I was surprised with a top ten finish. Most enjoyable and pleasing to finally get up to the top of Mt Kahuranaki.

Nearing the top of Kahuranaki.

Unusually, biking took a bit of a back seat for three months when, after many years of being a non-runner and wondering if I had a marathon in me, I bit the bullet and entered the local one. Never having run more than ten kilometres, I settled into three months of run-specific training, with only Easter bikepacking distracting me near the end. I lined up on an unusually frigid morning quietly confident that I’d somehow run fifty percent further than I ever had before. It all went as expected and I was pleased to finish easily within my goal of four hours. I’m not sure I’ll ever train for another, it takes too much time away from riding – but more trail running and keeping run-fit that way appeals.

Since then, running has mostly been Saturday morning Park Runs – which I find a great way to get the weekend started. I’ve enjoyed a little bit of Park Run tourism, but mostly I’ve run my local one and it’s been good to get to know a few people there. It’s now regularly over a hundred people out running and walking the flat, smooth five kilometre course. With my attendance being somewhat sporadic (biking trips take precedence), I was well pleased with improving my best time a couple of times throughout the year; now down tantalisingly close to nineteen minutes, that leaves a good goal for 2020.

My first island holiday, in Niue, was great to have planned straight after the marathon. Completely different to any other vacation I’ve ever been on, I thoroughly enjoyed a relaxing week spent with Adele and James and McKirdys snorkelling, walking, exploring and eating our way around the small island. Managing to tack a weekend in Melbourne on to a work trip for my birthday and a long weekend visiting family in Sydney were worthwhile additions to make up my complement of overseas travel.

Closer to home, various volunteer opportunities come and go. Favourite ones are always helping out at different events – biking, triathlon, running and so on, so I look forward to more of those next year. A steady stream of guests have been through my home this year, some of which help to offset the cost of house maintenance. With a new roof, some building work and finally finishing painting the exterior of the house, it’s looking good and should be able to withstand the elements for many more years. Painting weatherboards while listening to books I find pleasantly relaxing, but there will be far less of that next year – so more time for exploring near and far on a bike. Cycle touring guests arrive with irregularity – they’re good fun and always happy to share stories of places toured and ideas for more rides.

Work this year has been fulfilling as I settle into the role of Process Safety Engineer. Pleasingly two projects that have been going for three years reached significant milestones – most notably our safety case was approved by the regulator, the inspection next year shall be an interesting gauge of how we’re doing embedding many new systems introduced over those years. A mid-year course had me sitting an exam for the first time since university; rather out of practice and with seventy-five percent required to pass, it was a bit of a shock to the system (especially four hours long), so I was pleased to pass and be able to add Functional Safety Engineer to my few qualifications – not that that helps much with riding bikes. 2020 will prove to be interesting as all those in the direct line above me are changing roles, and my role will continue to develop.

Not something I’ve done, but very exciting news nonetheless: there’s recently been a new arrival in the family and I have my first nibling. Many congratulations to Adele and James, I look forward to meeting young George shortly. Unexpectedly, he’s also my middle-namesake – quite the honour there. I’m down south for the holidays, there may be a little bit of riding and running between the festivities and time with family. I expect next year will develop further on that part – I’m particularly keen on a couple of riding routes this summer that have been on the list since I moved to Napier. Best wishes for all.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, friends, GPS, NZ

Post-work Friday Waipatiki Overnighter

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The midday switch to a cooling sea breeze was not to last. Leaving work just before five, the raging norwester was back dragging the mercury up to thirty degrees. Steve and I made slow progress along the flat highway, into the wind funnelled down the valley, before finally turning north and meeting Marek at the start of the climb. Waipunga Rd is one of my favourite local gravel roads and I’m pleased that it’s back in far better condition than for HBAT. It may have been the heat, the wind or just end-of-week tiredness – but my, all that food I packed instead of changes of clothes sure was dense. I was slow.

Up the sealed climb at the start of Waipunga Rd – photo from Marek.

Having discussed it over the lunch table, I’d finally figured out which house, most of the way up the road, was Jess’s. Kennels of dogs barking enthusiastically welcomed us, as did the favourite running free – we happily accepted filled water bottles and a huge bowl of fresh guacamole, such a hardship helping to deal to a glut of avocados. Chatting too long, I was reminded that we’d better get going as the sun dropped – we didn’t have many lights between us.

The end of the road had us turning east and the wind at our backs. Five clicks of seal descended to the highway, which we crossed to join the gravelled upper part of Tangoio Settlement Rd. Following the ridge, the pines up here are generally young and allow views both sides of the road. The haze from the bushfires in Australia continues to linger, the approaching sunset looked likely to be a good’un.

Easy riding down to the highway.

Arriving at the junction with Waipatiki Rd, we had enough daylight yet to pause and watch the sun sink. It was worth it.

Thanks again to Marek for the photo.

Still plenty warm, it was just as well as the last two hundred metres are lost rapidly through a short series of switchbacks.

Waipatiki Beach, another of Marek’s photos.

I didn’t remember the turn-off to the campground, but I certainly remembered the decaying machinery from my previous trip here. Checking in, we managed to get our tents up before the dusk faded into night. Quite a luxury having a camp kitchen to cook in, I set about preparing and consuming (in part, Steve helped) the mass of food I’d hauled in – well worth it. Also odd to have a camp lounge to gather in, it was far later than is normal for me on such rides before we retired to our respective tents.

Gusts really got up in the early hours of the morning, giving a couple of hours of sleeplessness as my tent thrashed around. By dawn the wind abated; we rose, ate and packed before crossing the stream to check out the beach a little.

All calm, and hazy, again.

This relic served a purpose, anchoring one side of this:

An unusual water crossing by bike – definitely better than wet feet and wheels being swallowed by unseen holes. Another of Marek’s pictures.

Water still pretty chilly, I wasn’t staying wet for too long. Marek’s again.

Beach rest for the bikes.

Half-eight by the time we set off, all were keen to take a vaguely described paper road to not reverse the big sealed descent of the previous night. A tiny amount of hike-a-bike landed us, with dry feet, on an old forest road heading north and up to Aropaonui Road. It was barely overgrown, well benched and gained us a hundred and fifty metres pretty easily. Reaching the gravel, we climbed further heading away from the Pacific – occasionally getting sideswiped by the norwester. I adopted my trying-not-to-get-blown-off-my-bike stance, and was unusually successful.

The only mud we had to negotiate during the trip.

Missing the concerted effort of Saturday morning Park Run, I pushed a little harder than normal to round out the hour of climbing to the highway. Finding a suitably shady spot, there was some serious snacking to be done to ensure we didn’t carry too much food home. The gravelled top section of Tangoio Settlement Road was repeated, and was just as good as the previous night (save the spectacular sunset) and we were soon bombing down to sea level for the last few kilometres back to work.

Can’t quite see my house.

Even stopping at work to pick up some gear, then at Bay View for boysenberry and feijoa ice cream and fresh strawberries, it was before noon when we arrived in town for quality burgers that I’m still thinking of.

What a great little overnight trip (barely managed a hundred kilometres and eighteen hours) with good friends and plenty of food to round out my Hawke’s Bay bikepacking for the year. It’s been such fun, and I’ve seen so much of this little province – finding plenty of hills, views and food along the way.