Up early again as far too hot to stay in tents. As we were packing up, we were interested to see a couple of sea kayakers setting up camp at this time of the morning. To our surprise it was Rob and Haidee out adventuring, as they do often – their site documenting their travels seems the biggest English language resource online for such things in Hokkaido. We had already been using the bike section of the website extensively. Great to hear a couple of Kiwi accents and hear firsthand a little about their time living and exploring in Hokkaido.

Back south along the east coast for a bit (Rachel’s photo).

The first of a lot of kelp we saw drying today.

A good example of a tsunami escape staircase, don’t remember there being a lot of houses or people around here though.

One of the longer gallerias we saw and rode through.

Halfway down the island we turned inland and found a delightful forest road that gave us views from the centre of the island to the west coast and over the Sea of Japan. Steep to start with, that section was partly shaded – particularly welcome in the heat. Along the ridge the views really opened up and there were frequent stops. This short section of trail off sealed roads was my favourite section of riding so far in Japan, and remains a highlight.

To get down to the very near west coast, we had to drop steeply to the edge of Rebun town, on the east coast, and go back west through a new tunnel – this at least wonderfully cool and quiet. With time up our sleeves before the ferry back to Wakkanai, we pottered around the coast – a short dip, a short walk to a cleft in the rocks and then a little ride south to look at rocks that don’t look like the things they’re named after.

(Rachel’s photo)

Not a cat.

(Rachel’s photo)

A popular spot, hadn’t seen so many people in one place on these islands.

Back through the tunnel, alarming to be passed by the high-pitched whine of this scooter.

Still some time until the ferry arrived, why not go to the end of the island’s roads to the south? This was mostly through more down-on-their-heels coastal villages.

Back to join the motorbikes.

Bit busier than last time (Rachel’s photo).

So it was goodbye to the little island of Rebun – a very enjoyable day we had there. We’d started to enjoy the carpeted floor areas that were set up for sitting and lying down – no shoes; good for a bit of stretching, napping and general lounging around. Back to Hokkaido we went to ride to the northernmost point of that island.

Around Wakkanai’s port again.

Heading out east, the coastal road (very flat) curved around to the north to put the wind directly behind us – very easy riding. Didn’t look like there were going to be many options at Cape Soya, so a stock-up at the last Seicomart was in order.

Funny, coming from the kiwifruit capital of the world, to see them right at the top of Japan. Would realise during the trip that Zespri is the NZ brand that one sees most in Japan.

The stock, and low cost, of RTDs (ready-to-drink alcoholic drinks in NZ vernacular) in konbinis was always alarming; of the few I tried, I didn’t find a gin-based one I really liked. Nice change at the end of a hot day though, as a contrast to all the soft drinks.

Almost at Cape Soya, someone had found a diversion up the Path of White Shells. A very steep old road made up of crushed sea shells. Bathed again in sweat to end the day.

Very much crushed shells; at least some use for the piles we’d see at various processing plants.

Good views from the top of the three Rs – Rishiri, Rebun and Russia (Sakhalin Island).

Sakhalin Island in the distance.

Rishiri to the left, Rebun on the right (Rachel’s photo).

(Rachel’s photo)

Back on the coastal road for the last twenty minutes to the cape, in time for sunset. As Rachel mused, more land of the setting sun than rising sun for us – rather missing summer clock adjustment.

We found a good park to make camp in near the port – toilet block, water and even a picnic table for cooking dinner on.

Hot and sunny by the time we left Rishiri Town to go the long way to the ferry, it looked like this may have been a better day to climb the mountain.

The little bridge to the shrine is still bigger than the shrine.

Earlier we’d noticed small boats returning, wondering what their catch was.

Stopping at this garage on the side of the main road, we found out as we watched this family processing the morning’s haul.

Quite the hive of industry on a Sunday morning. But not so busy that we didn’t try to communicate and find out what each other was doing.

Sea urchins, uni – spiky!

Very tasty too, can see why they’re a delicacy – both from the work involved and the taste.

Off we continued on the very quiet road, the peak now starting to cloud over.

Stopping at a pond that is known for its clear reflection of Mt Rishiri, the cloud had built further to deny us that.

But there were plenty of big butterflies and irises to catch the eye. Expensive scallops cooked in the shell satisfied the taste buds too.

Not a better day to climb the mountain.

Rachel’s photo as we headed up the east coast, pretty sure we’d make the ferry in time.

Nice cycle trail through forest as we approached port, over those bridges spied each of the previous two days.

Ferry docking, Rebun on the horizon.

With plenty of time to spare, Orlaith and Rachel went and climbed this – my legs were not interested after Mt Rishiri descent.

Never found out if the takeout was that good.

Ferry boarding and bike lashing completed, it was a shorter voyage to Rebun.

Those bridges again; still not completely sure how such bridges became part of a cycle trail. Some narrow gauge railway (but why would there be one here?) vibes in part, but I can’t find anything about the history of them.

Goodbye Rishiri – a fun island stay, pity we didn’t quite get the views for the price my legs paid on the hike descent!

Was not a busy sailing.

A short ride up the east coast to a bay at the north of the Rebun (see second map below) was only punctuated by a konbini stop for the next twenty hours’ food. Having worked out the various details of the campground and pitched our tents, we got back on the unloaded (!) bikes to see what was along the north west peninsula.

Yet another island it turned out!

And some impressive cliffs.

Old fields fading away, another sign these places used to support far more people than nowadays.

Rachel and Orlaith headed further down the west coast for more spectacular views, but having been got separated somewhere I was happy to return to camp, being quite tired now from ten days of heat, humidity and little sleep. A call home helped as the afternoon cooled a little into prevening in pleasant surroundings.

The rain forecast arrived properly overnight and it continued to tip down as we took our time to get organised and pack everything back on the bikes. Despite the smoke and mustiness, the rider house was good for meeting a few other bike tourers – a Japanese father and young son, two Israeli friends; there were quite a few bikes jammed in the gaps between buildings.

Down to the port and we had our first, of what would be many, Japanese ferry rides. Tickets bought, we tried to line up out of the rain – but not easy. The fare for a bike seemed high, the same for a motorcycle – but it did mean bikes were well looked after and securely lashed to the side of the vehicle deck.

Not a lot to see in the cloud (there’s a mountain in there somewhere, we found later that bridge is part of a bike trail), but the rain eased through the afternoon.

Ferry was not packed.

Onto a new island, we had a damp twenty kilometre ride to Rishiri town to find a campground. Mostly cycle trail, the weather wasn’t too unpleasant and the route was interesting. With only a few thousand people living in small towns around the coast, we enjoyed the quietness. Plenty of the signs were amusing too.

Is it more joyful with the liquor?

Still, no mountain.

Fortunately for her, she wasn’t standing any closer.

That’s a well-fed bird, seems to prey on children.

Magpies and cyclist conflict seems to be universal.

Tried not to take this personally.

Occasionally we got close to some really nice forest, but the trail stayed out.

We rode a little past town, and then, mistakenly past, the turn-off to a campground in the woods. Having climbed a little way up to it, we found it unstaffed, unused, very damp and not suitable – so returned, through town and out onto an exposed headland. This campground was at least in use, and had a little shelter with space to cook in and even some washing machines. Very windy, when the rain finally eased I had a bit of a struggle learning how best to pitch my tent in a gale.

Waiting for the rain to go while inside the shelter.

Having arrive mid-afternoon we had a little time before dark to potter around town, finding a cafe a priority. We found one delightfully stuck a few decades back.

The lanterns helped to brighten what had been a fairly bleak, but eventually brightening, day.

The mountain still capped, various views of the lighthouse would have to do as dusk approached.

Forecast rain never arrived, so we ventured out for a tiki-tour. Back over to the west coast to start a loop that would take us past Cape Noshappu.

Managed to avoid such a fate by taking things easy, and being able to ride a bike.

Reused-buoy art.

Fish drying racks, we think.

Big listening station just behind the cape, and its fishing harbour.

The ferry returning from Rishiri – we’d be on that tomorrow.

Returning to Wakkanai, a steep climb took us up to this observation tower and the museum at its base.

An English audio guide online helped somewhat with understanding some of it, but internet coverage in the bottom of a big concrete building – not so much. Main point that stuck was the proximity of Sakhalin island (forty kilometres to the north) – that at times has been controlled, completely or in part, by either China, Russia or Japan. Japan’s control being during its expansionist early twentieth century, Russia reclaiming it at the end of the Second World War.

Monument to nine young telephone operators that stayed on to keep communication lines open as Russia retook Sakhalin, staying to the last before taking suicide pills.

Few more days before we’d be back to ride along that coast to the northern most point of Hokkaido.

Wakkanai and another wind farm.

More perfect fruit, some a hundred New Zealand dollars each!

Local seafood market for lunch.

First example I saw of bowsers from the roof; saw them occasionally after that.

Searching for an outdoor shop, we found it in this otherwise closed up shopping precinct. Very helpful staff and a great store – we got what we needed.

Also found a bike mechanic to try and get rid of the annoying click from my bottom bracket – interesting little workshop.

Popping down to the ferry terminal to investigate what we had to get on the ferry to Rishiri the following day, we noticed our first elaborate coloured cover. We had been spotting a few different manhole cover designs in different places, but they’d all been cast iron. Eventually realising that every town has their own, spotting and photographing them became a small obsession for the next three months.

A little planning for the next few days also possible.

Just as well I’m not fond of whisky… Supermarkets would be even more perilous.

Back to the local onsen to hangount, cabinet food tonight, with a little live music.