Our third and final day on Alps2Ocean dawned clear and with much less wind than the previous day. I’d barely slept as the room was hot and also above the noisy bar; but that mattered little as there were plenty of distractions on an easy day’s riding. After a full-English breakfast (or close to) we set off for the flat riding down the Waitaki valley to Duntroon, all on cycle trail – some down by the river, some alongside the road, and parts joining the two.

Dad joined us for the first twenty-two kilometres of the day. He and Adele chatted while I tried to ride slowly taking photos and otherwise distracted.

K-Lines!

Until the previous night, I’d not known there was local wine (very good it was too). The trail had been cunningly routed through a vineyard, past the shop.

Dad rejoined Mum in the car just before Duntroon as Adele and I wound our way back to the riverside and then up to the town. From here on in, we were on a more familiar route – Adele and I having ridden from Duntroon down the trail for a couple hours and back some two years before. Not much had changed from what I wrote then.

We made the small climb up to Elephant Rocks, where Mum and Dad met us for a picnic lunch in amongst the limestone looking at the sunny view. Very pleasant it was too. As I had my mountain bike (as an aside, it was much more comfortable to do long days on than I imagined) I amused myself riding over and off various rocks that my ability could cope with.

A destination for boulderers and such people that like to climb things, there weren’t many around that day unfortunately.

The lunch stop was about halfway up the first of the day’s only two climbs worth mentioning. The trail departed the roadside and we had about a hundred metres to climb below pleasant limestone outcrops.

The trail summited that climb, opening up big views south.

Descending quickly to more farm buildings I do remember a significant water bar in the trail that I flew off of. Good fun. We rejoined the quiet backroads to start the only other climb of the day – this one only slightly higher.

Back into farmland we followed the route of the old railway (Tokorahi branch line) before starting the climb.

The clouds were light that day and with the wispy patterns, quite interesting to gaze at as the wheels rolled easily on.

It seemed less onerous than two years before.

Back on gravel roads the ascent carried on until we reached the point where it was pretty much down all the way to the ocean for thirty kilometres. Tunnel Road was the point we’d turned around the previous time – and also the point I got to from the following day having ridden from Oamaru on another out and back ride. We whizzed down the gravel and rejoined the rail route and were upon said tunnel.

It was suitably dark and dripping wet – but we found our way just fine to the light at the other end.

Reaching the road again, Dad had driven back from Oamaru (having dropped Mum off in town) to ride the section through all the diary farms he’d been so heavily involved with. We coasted down to Windsor and through many farms that all of us feel some connection (of varying degrees) to. Pleasingly, since I rode this section two years before, the trail has been routed off the roads and mostly through the farms. At the appropriate place, we got a little explanation of how excess irrigation water is discharged to the Waiareka Creek before winding past the old buildings on Elderslie. I was able to spot particular fields and other areas I’d worked on during early university holidays.

Enfield Church

Dad left us at Enfield, Adele and I left to complete the final twelve kilometres into and through Oamaru to the Pacific coast. Following the little A2O signs, the route seemed to go all over the place through the public gardens. Finally we were gazing up at the large Victorian era stone buildings Oamaru is somewhat known for. Enjoying the last metres and the sunshine, the stiffening sea breeze didn’t seem to matter much.

Just like that, 290 km of riding in two and a half days was done. A great, easy trail with tremendous views; great riding buddy too.

Celebratory photos taken and with dolphins viewed in the Pacific, we made haste to the nearby Scotties for beer and pizza.

Not exactly waking early after a good night’s sleep, we breakfasted and prepared for a longer day on the bikes. Leaving all our overnight gear to be picked up by Mum & Dad we continued on the road around the lake to Lake Ohau Lodge.

From there the trail switches direction south and starts the largest climb on the route. It’s off road through the Ruataniwha Conservation Park. There’s about four hundred metres of elevation to gain, but it’s at a very gentle gradient (about five percent or less) and the views are a good distraction too.

More lupins, this time bordering a mountain stream. The flowering manuka bushes became more apparent.

The views of the lake and the Ben Ohau Range improved as we gradually got higher. It was rather a grey day, and the headwind that would hang around all day began to plague us.

Most of the riding was through open grassland, we saw a few other small groups of riders and as showers passed through we played the on-again, off-again game with our rain jackets.

Occasionally the trail would cross a larger stream, usually at such places we would ride through a few hundred metres of native bush.

The manuka became more prevalent.

Still we climbed, ever so slowly gaining height. Despite the breeze and cloud, it was pleasant riding.

I stopped plenty to admire the view. Lake Middleton, where we camped, is just visible below the near short of Lake Ohau.

Eventually we could see a bit more of where we were going. The weather didn’t look any more inviting, especially with the breeze picking up. But it wasn’t cold – so that was nice.

Reaching the crest of the climb, we paused for a snack and looked down on the trail stretching away.

The downhill was fast, easy and fun. There were even some convenient little banks to ride up around corners.

Just as you near Quailburn Road, a new stretch of trail has been built diverting riders up towards a historic woolshed.

We poked around said woolshed a bit before heading down the road towards Omarama.

Surrounded by lupins again, it was a long gradual downhill to the highway. However, with the breeze in our faces coming up the valley it didn’t feel that much of a downhill.

Irrigators stretched into the distance – this one not looking like it’s doing a particularly effective job.

We toiled into the wind, I did my best to tow Adele along – but as many rides home from work with colleagues has shown me: I’m hopeless at getting the pace right leading other cyclists.

At the busy Wrinkly Rams cafe in Omarama, we met Mum & Dad (who had been to pick up our camping gear) for a large lunch. Although most of the rest of the day would be down the Waitaki River valley, there was still seventy kilometres of headwind to go. Shortly after we had left Omarama, Mum joined us for a lovely downhill section to and alongside the western arm of Lake Benmore.

About to join the highway for a decent climb, I paused at this quiet jetty while the extra bike was packed away.

The highway stretch was pretty horrid with little shoulder – thankfully there weren’t many trucks. Cresting the rise after fighting the wind, it only strengthened for the steeper descent down to Otematata. So, one of those annoying times of having to pedal down a steep hill. Thankfully we turned off the highway, although that did mean skirting Otematata – which would have been a homecoming of sorts, as Mum & Dad a holiday home there for a few years.

Back on a cycle path, we headed towards Benmore Dam listening to the roar of jet boats as holiday-makers zoomed around.

The last notable climb of the day stood before us – holding back the largest hydro lake in the country.

That achieved (it’s a reasonable climb, but short lived), we looked out over the boats, the Waitaki River and the hills beyond.

Leaving Dad and Mum, who’d met us at the top, there was another nice downhill back to the river level. Into the wind. There was thirty-five kilometres left gently down to Kurow; which all involved continued leaning into/against various angles of wind coming up the valley. It was slow work, but not raining and not cold – so that was helpful.

Mostly the quiet road (which became a lot quieter after passing the last camping ground) followed the shore of Lake Aviemore, so we were able to look out over the choppy waters and watch the kite-boarders and wind-surfers enjoying the wind more than we were. We crossed the Aviemore Dam and rejoined the highway for the last section of the day to Kurow.

As the shadows lengthened we followed the Upper Waitaki Irrigation Canal for some distance. Which is a useful segue for plugging Dad’s book.

As an aside, I spent a lot of the latter half of last year doing the first rough edit of Dad’s book that he’s been working on for a few years. I found it fascinating reading as a great mix of history – agricultural, social and engineering – focussed on irrigation in North Otago. It was published in December and I’m very impressed, and proud too – maybe one day I’ll have a book in me (I write enough here, I should have). Water, North Otago’s Gold details over a century of efforts to bring water to the fertile, but dry, lands of North Otago – leave a comment if you’re interested in a copy.

Shortly before seven o’clock we rolled up to the pub, stashing our bikes in the back bar we settled down to a well deserved steaks-all-round meal and some local wine (I’d no idea there were vineyards around Kurow). I’m unsure why I still get surprised at Adele’s ability to put in such long days – especially on a bike where she spends little time.  It was another great day of bike riding through a lot of countryside.

A little wander around Kurow before trying to get some sleep – I slept better in the tent.

Down south for two weeks for Christmas, I was keen to a multi-day ride. Close to where we were, is the Alps2Ocean trail. The longest of the NZ Cycle Trails I’d only ridden the last hundred kilometres a couple of years ago – I was keen to complete another of these fantastic trails that appeared while I was overseas. Adele was easily convinced to join me on a bike adventure for a few days. Somehow we persuaded Dad and Mum to drive the support vehicle and lug most of our camping gear around – this worked well as I’d brought my full suspension mountain-bike with me and wasn’t set up to carry much luggage.

The Alps2Ocean officially starts in the mountains at Mt Cook Village and makes it was down to the ocean at Oamaru some three hundred kilometres later. But the first section has the Tasman River to cross which requires an expensive helicopter ride – so the alternative start at Tekapo is popular. Driving up from Oamaru in the morning we took some scenic roads I’d not travelled before and stopped in Fairlie to buy pies that Adele had been raving about. I followed her advice and got the pulled pork offering. We lunched at our start point on the side of Lake Tekapo, looking at the mountains.

So much pulled pork, delicious apple sauce and the top of the pie was a very large piece of crackling! Also, scenic lake and mountains.

About to go bikepacking (sort of) – on full suspension MTBs, with big slow tyres, few & a narrow range of gears, little luggage and most oddly: wearing a backpack.

Leaving Tekapo through residential streets we soon dropped down to the level of the hyrdoelectric canal (Tekapo A being the first of many power stations the route passes alongside NZ’s biggest hydro network) that we would follow most of the way to Lake Pukaki.

The cross wind along here was horrid, we soon turned west to have it at our backs.

The riding was easy, with a big tailwind we made good progress despite the limited top gear. The mountains came into view.

It was a good thing the riding was so easy, as the mountains were quite distracting. Mt Cook, NZ’s highest – which Adele has summited, on the right. I got a brief lesson in the names of the peaks and various climbing routes.

Passing the first big salmon farm (we saw three that day), the canal pooled before entering penstocks down to Tekapo B. We sped down the hill to the shores of Pukaki.

Following a quiet road for five kilometres, it wasn’t difficult to stop and look back at the Southern Alps.

Just before the climb to the highway, the route turned off to a lovely trail around the shores. A good time for second lunch – Christmas ham & cheese sandwiches.

Crossing the highway, the trail continued on a long gentle downhill to Twizel – the wind still at our backs.

Navigation on Alps2Ocean is a breeze – I had mounted my GPS on my bike, but I didn’t need it at all for route-finding; the signage is extremely good, the moment the thought “a sign would be useful about now” starts to enter one’s mind – such a sign appears.

Bikes pose with some rather dinky earthmoving equipment at the entrance to Twizel. The assortment stands testament to the massive civil engineering project started decades ago and that still provides a large proportion of NZ’s electricity.

Stopping in Twizel, we ate, met Mum & Dad and organised the rest of the day. Initially, we thought we’d have dinner in Twizel and ride into the evening, but the wind was so helpful – it was too early. Supplies were bought for a family picnic dinner where we would camp.

With five or so kilometres climbing across the wind, we were back up at canal level. We turned with the wind again and followed the Pukaki Canal to its junction with the Ohau Canal. Riding alongside the Ohau Canal we were soon on the edge of Lake Ohau.

After crossing the top of the Ohau River, the trail turned to narrower graveled cycle trail.

This ten kilometre section around the lake, in the evening light, was the highlight of the day. The riding was ever so slightly more engaging, there was no one around, the lake was moody, the mountains standing watching behind it. What a fantastic end to the day’s riding!

Mum & Dad, long suffering as they are obliging us with our crazy adventures, were waiting at the Lake Middleton campground (a tiny lake right next to Ohau, that seems to be popular as a family camping spot). We found a suitable site for the tent, ate dinner, set up camp, farewelled Mum & Dad as they drove back to Kurow, and fell asleep reflecting on a rather excellent afternoon’s riding. The wind sure was helpful – almost ninety kilometres with no real effort in less than five hours of riding. Well, there may have been some effort – I slept unusually well in the tent.