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Asia, bikepacking, bikes, friends, travel

From the road – two weeks into bikepacking in northern Mongolia

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Time, technological capability and inclination to post here during our first two weeks in Mongolia has been lacking. But here we are after a rest day in Tsetserleg with a little post coming up.

Ulaan Bataar as the biggest city by far in this sparsely populated land was interesting to spend a couple of days in making final gear purchases, assembling bikes and organising transport to the northwest for the three of us, our bikes and gear. It enabled us to have a look around. A former Soviet satellite, any ongoing influence of that era was not obvious to my eye.

Certainly weren’t any cars from that time (guess they’ve all decayed), Toyota is obviously king here – easily three-quarters of the passenger vehicles. I thought NZ was bad for used Japanese imports, here there are Priuses, or derivatives, everywhere you look (used imports, the right hand drive steering wheel is on the wrong side – not that that matters on dirt tracks). If it’s not a Prius, it’s a LandCruiser – the big, fancy SUV ones, not the workhorses. Pleasingly oversized pick-up culture has not made it here. As we learnt, Priuses will go anywhere!

There are a few Russian UAZ vans that are well suited to the rough conditions. It was one of these that we crammed three bikes in the back of, along with ourselves further forward, for two days of driving to Murun. From there we rode north to Lake Khuvsgul, which stretches north over a hundred kilometres close to the Russian border, for a little shakedown ride. This involved far more heavy rain than I expected and a lot of highway riding at a busy national festival time of the year. A hundred heavily loaded kilometres in storms and then a headwind were exhausting and a stark wake-up for me and Ian. The scenery helped distract us! But we got away from the crowds to have a lovely night camping by the lake. First herds of yaks ridden beside were a highlight.

Back in Murun we somehow got all the extra gear and food that we’d left at our accommodation on our bikes and headed south on a route of dirt roads that Rachel and Ian had devised to get us to the bikepacking.com Khangai Mountains Traverse route. Mostly smooth dirt roads with plenty of time along and across valleys with occasional climbs and downhills between the next one, there were still Priuses everywhere! But it was all part of the fun, as were beautiful riverside campgrounds, friendly Mongolians, stunning scenery, green green valleys, masses of animals, interesting food and mostly good weather punctuated with almost-daily afternoon thunderstorms.

Those few days of riding were so good, it would be hard to beat – so it proved with the bikepacking.com route, where it was still beautiful and we met plenty of interesting, curious and generous people – but the scenery and riding were just a little bit more harsh. A horrible section of corrugated roads, which we’d been warned about by the only other bikepacker we’d seen to that point, stretched for scores of kilometres either side of Zag. But that was overcome and people, food, vast greenness and views, animals, seeing such a different place are more than enough compensation for the harder points.

This is the first new, and very foreign to me, country I’ve been to for quite a few years – combined with the most bikepacking I’ve done for a long time. So it’s not all easy, but I’m slowly getting my legs back around the challenges. Such a foreign language and alphabet (Cyrillic) is something none of us have really got our heads around, trying and failing to communicate with so many friendly people is quite frustrating. But we get by and have some entertaining and charming encounters.

The conditions haven’t been overly harsh, yet some gear I’ve had for years inconveniently failed near the start of nine days in remote areas. One of which was my air mattress, despite repeated attempts to repair it I eventually left it in the trash. The hardness of sleeping on the ground is not too bad (Mongolian beds are very hard anyway), but by the wee hours the ground is cold – particularly at 2500 m. So I haven’t been sleeping much at all, but am well rested in my spacious new tent (a two-person tent for one person was a good upgrade for such a long trip with a lot of gear). I found and bought a folding foam mattress today, so I should be ok – if I can fit it on my bike somewhere!

Rest day is almost over, heading for the Orkhon Valley tomorrow so I should make the most of this bed and sleep. I haven’t managed to process photos as I normally would, most are still on my camera, but here is a photo dump from my phone as some sort of consolation if you managed to read this far.

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Old Woman Range

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Far too long since I’d been bikepacking on my actual bikepacking bike, the lure of finally exploring the Old Woman Range in good autumn conditions did the trick – having biked past, or around it, a number of times my curiosity had long since been piqued. So we downed garage-building tools a day early and I headed to Clyde partially packed for a night in the hills.

A leisurely start across the fields, Leaning Rock in the distance.

We found the calm morning changed to a noticeable headwind as the breeze funnelled down the gorge on the Lake Dunstan Cycle Trail. Concern that the rental-bike traffic would be overwhelming was unfounded – except at the narrowest part of the trail (of course!).

A lovely morning’s riding, even if my legs aren’t used to a loaded bike anymore. Wasn’t long before future plans were switching to this bike, away from the faster, lighter gravel bike.

(Rachel’s photo)

Autumnal; out of the gorge and the wind all but gone.

After lunch in Bannockburn we headed for the Nevis Rd, somewhat overwhelmed by a long convoy of vehicles heading that way. What was going on out here? Turning onto the gravel we spied a solitary classic beribboned Rolls Royce, but unattended. Curious.

The Shepherds Creek valley and grovel out of it were baking with no breeze and a thirty degree afternoon. I stopped at a thread of a water race to cool off. A few more pick-ups passed us heading up, and then the motos started coming down. Identical adventure bikes, individually numbered into the 100s, they just kept rolling down – we never discovered what big organised ride they were on.

(Rachel’s photo)

With the grade averaging close to ten percent, I was soon off and pushing at anything over that – which was familiar from the last, more-heavily loaded, trip up here. As we climbed there was still no wind, but the air temperature cooled a bit.

The reason for all the traffic became clear as we approached the summit – suddenly feeling rather underdressed amongst a hundred-odd wedding guests enjoying the views and a few drinks to celebrate. Don’t think they could have got a better day for it!

Extraordinary.

Finally got to see Mt Cook from up here.

With two options to get from the road down to actual Duffers Saddle, we chose the one that took us over the summit of the road to pose with the incorrect Duffers Saddle sign.

(Rachel’s photo)

Quite a drop from the road to the saddle and what looked to be a big push to get on the Old Woman Range.

Some of it I could ride. (Rachel’s photo)

Well pleased with the clear views back to the ranges around home, and that I can now name them all and some of the peaks.

Approaching five o’clock, with only sixty kilometres but over two thousands metres of climbing, I was pretty toasted. Another two-plus hours to get Boundary Hut didn’t sound fun or sensible to me – not when Old Woman Hut was so close and it was new to me.

An easy decision to turn-off and roll down to the hut. A couple of young fellas were already there, having come up on motorbikes – but they clearly didn’t like us, so left after an hour or so. We settled in to a very comfortable hut – it’s recently been relined inside with ply and the sleeping platforms are also new. A short walk up from the hut gives good views of the Nevis Valley, and Mt Cook again.

(Rachel’s photo)

(Rachel’s photo)

After a fairly decent sleep, it was another slow start – that worked well as the hundred-odd motorbikes from yesterday reappeared and were initially using the same route we were. Waiting them out, we only got passed by nine or ten after rejoining the route along Old Woman Range. Having done most of the climbing the day before, it was far easier going – not as steep and not nearly as much of it. We snaked up and down for a few hours glad there was little wind and the forecast weather deterioration was staying away. I was surprised by the number of tarns.

Generally a good riding surface; there was the odd bog from 4WDs to avoid.

Mostly we enjoyed the wide open expanses at such altitude.

Heading for the little bump on the right horizon.

A couple of hours in we passed the turn-off to Boundary Hut – I was particularly pleased to have not pushed that far on Day One. Curiosity was not so strong to want to drop the best part of a hundred metres to see what we’d missed. We joined the Old Man Range at Hyde Rock – which was not at all notable on approach from the tops.

Far more prominent from the valley – of which it gave expansive views.

The rain looked closer out west, so north to the Obelisk we went. Back on a route I’d done before, the track and surroundings were familiar but were completely different without the gale wind blowing riders into fences or turning loaded bikes into kites. I think about my previous visit far too often.

At least I got a few photos this time – this the climb that needed the most effort that day.

The transmitter was visible far back, but only got bigger annoyingly slowly.

Made it and managed not to get clean blown over this time. (Rachel’s photo)

I was particularly looking forward to the Omeo Gully descent. The downhill, dropping 1500 m did not disappoint in any way. It was rough, rocky and loose in parts – as well as steep as I’d want to ride on a loaded bike, encroached by giant tussocks and, when waiting, it gave great views. An absolute blast – loved it. Alas, I was having too much fun to get pictures of the best parts.

Still on the ridge, approaching the turn-off right. Track already rougher than the transmitter service road we’d just been on.

(Rachel’s photo)

(Rachel’s photo)

The lower reaches mellowed out through grazed hillside.

What a great way to get back into bikepacking, finally got up there and motivation is back for more trips. Thanks to Rachel for the idea, impetus and, as always, being a great adventure buddy. Thanks to Mark, Paula and Eilish for the accommodation, untold cups of tea and terrific post-ride cookies that went a long way to replacing any lost calories.

around home, Aus, bikes, family, NZ

The Christmas Letter 2024

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Selling last summer to the continued Pulpmill cyclone recovery project turned out well – recency bias perhaps, it was the most rewarding, engaging and worthwhile work I can remember doing. Generally fifty hour, five and a half day, weeks didn’t leave a lot of time for much else – but I did manage a bit of gravel riding with a good mate and even-slower parkruns as I nursed a side strain. I was pleased to see pulp just starting to come out of the mill before I returned home at Easter (finally reaching the 100 parkruns milestone). I continued to support the project remotely for the next two months, but the hours decreased as the project neared completion.

Returning home and working less gave the opportunity to catch up with family and friends, get in vital firewood, try to remember how to ambulance, and get out in the hills a little. Some highlights were:

Riding from Macraes to the coast through farmland for a fundraiser.

The new, and excellent, Pike29 trail with a good bunch..

Gravel riding near Lake Brunner with the same group, and half the Heaphy with a subset.

A typical, but easy (to cater for less-fit me), West Coast hike up to Mt Brown Hut.

And the summit, only posted here because I thought I’d better put some of the rare photos of me in. Thanks to Katie for this one.

Back in Naseby, I enjoyed a couple of weekend visits from Hooges and Orlaith – as well as helping with firewood work – they bring enthusiasm for half-baked adventure plans that I never seem to get around to doing solo. In this case, finally climbing up through friends’ farm to see what it’s like at the top of Mt Alexander, near Danseys Pass.

Thanks Orlaith for this pic.

Visits from our parents to Naseby reduce over winter, but while Mum was visiting family and friends in UK and Europe I helped Dad buy an e-bike – so that was brought along during a rare winter visit. It’s been good fun having Dad suggest rides we should do and I look forward to more. A sunny, frosty ride from Oturehua to Omakau on the rail trail particularly memorable.

I successfully did my best to not go straight back to work, partly because I’d long wanted to visit a few friends in Queensland for the first time. September was the month to do so, shouldn’t be too hot. I hastily repacked and left my bike at home, forgoing the easy tour I had planned, when temperatures soared over thirty degrees higher than I was used to in Central Otago. So I had a leisurely trip spending extended time with dear friends and family.

On a Sunshine Coast walk.

I did of course manage to borrow bikes and get some short half-day rides in.

Time on farms was excellent, here having watched a bit of beekeeping, but there were general garden tasks, soap making, and dog walking to get me outside – as well as the riding, general exploring and walking.

Coming home to October snow and a week of rain was a bit much; on the plus side, I’ve never seen Central Otago looking so green! November was much better, especially with a delightful overnight hike with my young nephews and their family.

Back north later that month, there were more small hiking and biking adventures and I got to see my favourite podcast performed live again – which reminds me I also saw my favourite band perform in Auckland one weekend back in February.

Photo credit to Katie again.

And again.

In searching for portraits, I did find a couple of photos I’d forgotten about. This one reminding me that my haemochromatosis is still in maintenance with three-monthly blood donations. I continue to maintain that as far as chronic health conditions go, it’s a pretty good one – no medication, regular blood donations that help unknown others out, and I’m arguably symptom-free.

Also on the health front, I’m surprised and pleased at how good my once-troublesome shoulder now is after last year’s surgery. It certainly doesn’t clunk or stall as it used to – and it’s had a fair workout this year with firewood sawing, chopping and throwing.

Back in Naseby life, when I’m there, I spend a lot of hours on call for the local ambulance. After the long break with surgery and back in Napier, it’s obvious I’m not the medic in the family – but that’s fine, I don’t need to be to help keep our volunteer-staffed ambulance online. Small house building has stalled in the consent process, but the with a lot of help the pad for my garage was laid a few weeks ago – hopefully I can build the garage in January, with more help. It should be a fun and rewarding learning curve.

Somehow I’ve picked up a bit more work in Napier, this time on a casual basis in the sawmill (a different world to pulp), but it’ll be a couple of months before I’m back up there. Besides that and building, nothing much planned for the coming year – lots of ideas, but nothing set. Merry Christmas and all the best for the coming year!

bikes, MTB, NZ

A Coronet Loop

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Generally avoiding the Queenstown area means it has taken a few years to get around to riding the Coronet Loop. It sounded a good fifty-odd kilometre ride through otherwise deserted country, yet still close to the tourist mecca, so when the local MTB group planned a trip I finally went to ride it. Unfortunately parts of the loop were closed due to damage from a lot of recent rain (Central Otago is unusually green however as a result though), so we rerouted early on through Millbrook golf resort – always strange to ride MTBs through there.

With the big climb first up on a still morning and the sun beating down, I was soon on struggle street. Well below past bike-condition, it was looking a long hard day ahead. At least with all that rain, all the creeks were running and there was so much drinking water all day – a nice way to cool down, and no need to carry much liquid mass. There was some relief as the gradient eased and the air cooled as we neared our highest point of the day.

Over to the Remarkables.

This saddle being the highest we’d get.

Contemplating the fun down Long Gully.

The descent, paralleling the infamous Skippers Road, was good intermediate grade MTBing – I remember one decent rock drop I didn’t ride as I approached it too slowly and thought better of the risk of injury and ruining the day.

Back up the descent from the saddle.

Somewhere in here there were a couple of slips that we had to carry over, no big problem, before a switchbacked section that started out strangely steep but mellowed as we closed in on Green Gate Saddle.

Some of the switchbacks, and across to Skippers Road.

A bit of a clamber above the saddle to see if I could see more of our surrounds.

I could – the downhill to Green Gate Hut, and lunch.

Off we go… Well, the last three of the sixteen in front.

Down to lunch.

With such a large group, stops were, thankfully, plentiful and long – certainly helped get through the day.

A short climb and descent followed lunch to drop us to cross Deep Creek and follow it up for a while. We seemed to get a light tailwind to help us up. As we climbed above the creek for a while, one could feel how it would bake in here on a still summer’s day. We were very fortunate with the weather, couldn’t have asked for better.

Well above the creek now.

Thankfully not unpleasantly hot.

View stop at a spot labelled Easter Island – I missed snapping a photo of the rock that must have inspired the name.

It seems we somewhat took over the trail. With the part closures, we pretty much had it to ourselves – seeing one other rider all day, and he went past in the opposite direction as we lunched.

We rejoined Deep Creek for its first few kilometres, eventually climbing to the watershed and dropping quickly to Coronet Creek. From there we mostly descended for the almost-twenty kilometres to Arrowtown, much fun.

Not a hut to stay in, except in the most dire of circumstances. Something was definitely dead inside.

We joined the Macetown Road for the last ten kilometres along the Arrow River to finish in Arrowtown. Early on I rounded a corner to see a spectacular, but ultimately inconsequential, fall down a large bank. The last downhill into town was fast and fun. I’d no memory of ever having been up here before, but seems I rode to Macetown ten years ago! This wee blog does at least serve some of its original purpose of reminding me of various rides. Here’s hoping I don’t forget this great day out in a hurry.