Offered a cooked breakfast the previous night, naturally I didn’t hesitate. Only the time remained to be settled. Used to starting by seven, that was my pick – but eight seemed much more amenable for tired riders and the kitchen. It was a good call as we were all pretty exhausted from the previous two days and we’d broken the back of the course – two-thirds done in less than half the time available. We determined to have a shorter day to enjoy our time up on the Oteake and a stay in one of its many huts.

This is the way to start another day of excellent riding, and pushing.

Well, that didn’t last long. Note Andy’s package of cold toast sandwiches for lunch (there was no shop); the manager was gobsmacked (a priceless expression) and probably despaired for us, we were subsequently offered and took the last two, substantial, pieces of bacon and egg pie from the chiller.

Finally we rolled out at nine, which was a feat in itself with that breakfast. Forty minutes of easy gravel to a brief highway section gave ample chance to look back on the previous day’s hills and further piece the geography puzzle together.

Looking considerably nicer up there than what we dropped out of fourteen hours before.

On Home Hills Run Rd again, for a change heading into the Hawkduns and the Oteake Conservation Area.

More TTW stories to be shared – after days above 30ºC with a lot of climbing in the sun: I came off that in the dark, got water from the water race and slept in the only stand of trees around; Andy spent the night well back along the range and was so desperate for water the next morning that bottles were filled from a puddle – that promptly blocked his bottle nozzle (ick); Rachel spent a cramped night in tiny Wire Yards Hut with no water and many other racers. I’d also ridden what we would ride this day, in the reverse direction, on a Godzone training ride of best-sister’s just after returning from the UK seven years before – that was a big day then. I was very much looking forward to spending an easier day further exploring the area.

Filling up at the water race, we steeled ourselves for the loose and rocky track that would involve seven hundred metres of pushing.

Hmmm, didn’t know that – no corresponding sign if going in opposite direction.

Quickly gaining altitude, and walking, amongst the tussocks. Yesterday’s Dunstan Range in background, St Bathans Range coming in from the right.

Mt Ida and Little Mt Ida – landmarks I’m used to seeing from the other side (Naseby).

Down Hills Creek to the Manuherikia Valley.

Rocks getting chunkier, but altogether the track was in the best condition I’d seen it – most of the ruts filled in and not nearly as loose as usual.

With a light breeze from the south, it was still warming up. I found a nice, settled puddle to wet my headwear in – but not to drink out of.

Every hundred metres of ascent was marked, a good excuse to turn and take in the view – and have another snack.

Contrary to my memory of it being steep all the way down, there were parts that were actually ridable. Small parts admittedly, but it was nice to get back on the bike briefly.

Much more fun on the way down!

Two hours later we gained the summit, but didn’t stick around as we hunted for somewhere sheltered for lunch and a rest.

North along the Hawkduns, with the Benmore Range on the other side of the Waitaki (which we’d ridden around the bottom of two days earlier) and the Alps beyond – Mt Cook visible behind Benmore Peak.

Turning onto the notorious Walking Spur track, the start of the descent (before the sudden and cruel grovel back up) let me open things up a bit before finding a big rock to lunch behind with views across to the Alps.

Yay, Walking Spur! Cue eye roll.

Clear Stream, the end of which we crossed on TTW21 as it empties into the Otematata.

At least some of the spur was rideable.

Andy founded his grungy puddle, we stopped and there was no way I was drinking from that – he must have been desperate!

Not much to look at, even less to drink.

Back on the plateau, we turned off last year’s TTW course east. A glorious day, we revelled in the vastness of the top and marvelled at the sudden deep gullies – which were thankfully avoided.

Rachel returns to Wire Yards Hut.

Andy taking in the vastness, so close to towns, but so removed – we saw one moto rider at the base of the climb, and no one else all day.

A note in the hut book indicated a water source two hundred metres down the track; Rachel was most put out to find it was a good one and she’d been so close, and so thirsty on TTW. A long gradual downhill continued, which was a pleasant change, before reaching the railway station.

That’s right, there’s a railway station up here! It’s now a DOC hut, in which I’d love to stay – alas, much too early (40 km in for the day). Surely it must have been after quite a few beers one night that it was decided to drag the old Ida Valley Railway Station building up here with two bulldozers! Yea, here it is. This year’s TTW route comes this way, it would be a great place to stay.

Outside the station/hut, so much more water up here on this year’s route – a nice pool to dip in here too.

Another hundred metre climb that’s barely a blip on the elevation chart to the last time we’d get above 1000 m that day. I insisted on the short side trip to check out another hut – Chimney Creek Hut, where the eponymous creek is but a trickle.

Very similar to Wire Yards Hut, less of a view and less exposure.

A rather flat section as we crested the last hill. Getting difficult to work out where exactly we came from.

Starting shallow, the five hundred metre drop averaged out at ten percent – so it got a lot steeper. A good track with plenty of water bars, it was exceedingly fast and exhilarating. I had to keep on stopping though as the view constantly changed – more valleys, and the mountains to the east got a lot bigger and more pointed. What’s more, there were tracks all over the place – more adventures to be had and exploring to do!

Hut Creek, there’s a hut over there, funnily enough, which is called – wait for it – Hut Creek Hut. Brilliant!

One thing about stopping so often was that Andy got in front many times to take some of his video of our trip. This meant I could repeatedly tear past him, and probably give Rachel pause with the noise of rocks hurtling around, and unusually be captured having a blast. I was more than impressed at how quickly Andy was able to compile a simple film that captures our trip in such a way that all my words here simply can’t. I also like it as it goes some way to show just why I love this form of travel and how much joy and excitement I get from riding bikes in this way – especially if I can safely get some air! I won’t go so far as to say I was admonished for getting a little bit of air on a loaded, rigid bike – but it was noted, to equal parts embarrassment and delight. (Which reminds me, Andy’s footage from our end of the field features in Rob’s film, which does a good job of capturing the first TTW – if you’re interested at all in what this race was about, or what the experience was like, it’s worth it.

Tracks galore! None of which we’d take, save that zig and zag just beyond the tussocks, rising from the upper Otematata River.

About to climb from the river – after soaking our feet right at the end of the day.

Those switchbacks done, it was a nice roll down to Tailings hut – just after five o’clock! A short day, but so packed it felt much more than fifty-six kilometres. Plenty of time for a wash in Guffies Creek, much tea and a couple of dinners. Another equal-favourite day to go with the other two so far!

History, huh.

Just the slightest spits fell overnight, we rose to a gloomy morning with the sandflies rampaging again. Immediately crossing the Lindis, it wasn’t one of those where you can get away with dry feet – leaving us with cold feet for much of the day.

Leaving the headwaters behind, no sight of Melina Ridge this morning.

First climb over to Smith Creek to try and warm us up.

Into another one.

Ninety minutes of pottering past more yards, another private hut and we were soon grovelling up the highway to Lindis Pass. Twasn’t even a mile to roll down before finding the shortcut that would save us some altitude loss and regain to take us to the pylon service road which would be our next hour or so.

Heading south, we got some patches of sun.

Twas lumpy, to say the least.

Occasionally the sky corresponded with the last forecast we’d seen.

Another conservation area demanded more food – unsure if it was second-breakfast or first-lunch, but there was a good bottle-filling stream.

We joined what was supposedly a road, Goodger (great name), but was not really much different to the tracks we’d been travelling on over the hills – win!

Sometimes we spied, and tried to pick out, the Lauder part of the Dunstan Range that we were heading for. More obvious was the Chain Hills that were right beside us, and originally part of our route – as the day wore on we were all pleased we hadn’t gone up there too. Yet another great return option, probably on a big day ride – that ridge riding looks fantastic, but exhausting. Instead we continued across farmland, and up and over small ridges into the next valley.

At the foot of the next big push, we deliberated over the route. The more-direct one Andy had plotted had No Public Access signs posted. There was no one out there so we could probably take it with no issues, but as was pointed out – this wasn’t the way to go and much work had been done arranging the public access there was. We turned around and headed upstream towards the Chain Hills. Past more yards and another private hut, the track was all grass and steepened – it was slow and tedious going.

Reaching the point where we’d sidle around the foot of the Chain Hills, we did at least find signs that further clarified some of the many more possibilities for exploring out here.

The sidling wasn’t much better, but nothing compared to the next section.

Dropping to and pausing to refuel as Cluden Stream, the next push uphill was the toughest of the route. Steeper, it was far more overgrown with long grass – but the wheels still turned. To our utter surprise, the climb then had a bog running down it. Surely bogs are on flat land where water can settle – not cascading down a mountain side? Feet soaked again, there was still hope we’d get into some sunshine by late afternoon.

Eventually the track dried out, the gradient lessened and there were no more switchbacks. Out on the ridge we had views over to the Alps, where we’d come from that day, Dunstan Pass and the Chain Hills, and St Bathans Range looming behind.

That’s better.

A bit of sun for the day. Andy’s photo.

St Bathans Range in the background, in the middle Dunstan Pass on the left and further right one of the Chain Hills tracks.

Much the same, but now the rocky tors had begun to appear as we gained hundreds of metres gradually along the tops.

We’d come from somewhere just in front of that small patch of snow.

Many tussocks; looking out to the Alps around Hawea.

Quickly, the low cloud that we had seen sitting over Central Otago blew through on the southerly that had been cooling us much of the day.

Still we kept climbing to more and more rocks.

Now getting above the level of the Chain Hills, we were making progress.

Mistakenly waiting in the lee of a big rock thinking that was the top. Sigh…

Cold enough for jackets and thick gloves. At least we’d made the top; although whizzing down would be even colder. Andy’s photo.

Over the Manuherikia valley in Central Otago – I’d ridden through there the week before.

Time to start dropping 1200 metres in quick time; hands cold from stopping too much to goggle at the view and take pictures.

The usual Spot the Track – fun and fast descent.

Only the week before I’d ridden Thomsons Gorge and wondered about exploring the hills extending either side of the pass and now here I was looking at it from those very hills. Huzzah for having the time and flexibility to say yes to such riding opportunities that just come along – more of this, please!

A snippet of the big descent into and through Lauder Station – fun and fast farm track riding.

Having far too much fun, I soon resumed my gatekeeper role – which gave the opportunity to regroup. A long day, some said as tough as a TTW day – I’m unconvinced, I was given the extra job when stopped next to call ahead to the Vulcan in St Bathans to see if they had rooms and would keep the kitchen open. That was easy enough, the manager was most agreeable, there were two spare bunk rooms and they’d rustle up some food for us – it’s improved so much from my memory of it, now that the management has changed. That just left a big hillside to get off and half an hour of gradual climb to the village.

Made it in plenty of time where we were well looked after – even if some of us almost fell asleep eating the large meals!

For the second day in a row, I was absolutely blown away by the country we’d been able to travel through and take in. Perhaps more astounding was all the other opportunities apparent for future adventures. Two days in and already I couldn’t say which was my favourite.

So excited by the chance to go on Andy’s Conservation Area Loop (what I’m calling it anyway) was I, that I cut short New Year’s riding to return home and prepare for it. Aiming to string together a number of parks and their tops using farm tracks to that have only relatively recently become accessible sounded a grand idea to me – this plan had been fermenting in Andy’s mind for a while. What’s more, the forecast steadily improved in the week before. We had five days to ride the 300+ kilometre route; knowing little of the country, except that it would be very hilly, four days seemed likely for a good touring, definitely not race, pace.

A big breakfast in a Kurow cabin and a civil seven-thirty start and we were away up the Alps2Ocean. I’d not ridden the longest cycle trail in the country in its entirety for many years, so was pleased to find that a lot of more of it has been taken off the Waitaki Valley highway. It was still early and warming well, we wondered if we’d gotten things completely wrong watching the pleasure boats on the hyrdo dams.

Across Lake Benmore from the dam remembering previous trips on that lumpy pylon access road.

Across the dam and there’s now a trail up there, instead of going through Otematata down at valley floor level.

Looking over Otematata Station to the Hawkduns brought back memories of stinking hot days climbing up there less than a year ago on the first Tour Te Waipounamu. Comparisons to and memories of our respective TTW races would be a regular topic, such was its significance in our bikepacking lives.

I was thrilled that this new section of A2O took us high above the lake to give views of parts I’d not seen before.

There was some steady climbing, but equally fun downhills, and the section to Sailors Cutting provided a good warm-up. It’s a popular trail and there were plenty of riders to greet as they rode the, preferred, opposite direction. I think it’s just as good as the more-hyped Lake Dunstan Trail – the views are less confined, and there’s no highway noise for starters.

Still surprised at just how green this normally barren area is looking this summer.

The standard big meal at Wrinkly Rams consumed, we were soon out into the afternoon for a hour of gradual highway climbing towards Lindis Pass. Holiday traffic wasn’t too bad, none of the big rigs I’m used too. We continued up the Ahuriri valley as the highway turned towards the pass.

Almost another hour up the wide valley, getting closer to the access easement.

Andy’s photo.

Stunner, hot afternoon.

We were advised to cross the Avon Burn as soon as possible and stick to the farm track, much easier going than the nearby poled route.

The track soon left the stream with some steep pinch climbs.

As we got into the hills, we constantly pondered just which track we would soon be ascending. Andy’s photo.

We found this sweet, old private hut just before the long push began.

Available to stay in for a small fee, it was a beaut. Around four o’clock, most of us were tempted to call it a day there. But we’d not even managed a hundred kilometres, and little climbing – it was well too early to waste such kind, calm conditions. There began two hours of mostly walking through six hundred metres of ascent. All on reasonable double-track, the pushing was easy enough – that is, wheels rolled and there was no carrying.

Looking up to the big switchback, that was almost halfway up the total climb.

The views changed constantly and they were staggering. Spotting all the similar tracks dozed across and up other hills was a favourite – I want to explore them all!

Back down Avon Burn, the hut near those yards.

I’d been a bit nervous about recent medical things, so forwent a comfortable tent for a bivy bag and a stove for dry, cold meals (the forecast was good) to save a bit of weight – this helped to keep my bike moving a little faster. Rachel and I both left backpacks behind, but both found adequate solutions to strapping our front packs to our back to lighten bikes further for prolonged pushes.

Looking south before switching back and crossing that face two pictures above.

Running out of words for a while.

I can see at least eight tracks there I want to explore!

Into Otago now and the start of the Lindis River, we’d be down there soon enough.

Waiting a bit, scoping out more tracks.

The trail changed for the last few kilometres to the summit, with a little dip around the corner to climb out of.

It was so unbelievably still at the top of the Melina Ridge track, I was more than happy to linger waiting for Andy and Rachel – soaking in the views all around and scheming further adventures now that my eyes helped me to grasp the possibilities that a friend had mentioned on my arrival to Otago.

Tough place for fenceposts.

Eventually we were able to draw ourselves away from the views and set off down.

Through the gate into our first conservation area, I was not stopping on the downhill that presented itself.

Screaming down through a five hundred metre drop in ten minutes of big switchbacks and plenty of bouncing around on my loaded, rigid bike was oh so much fun. So much fun that I have no photos. I’d apologise, but it was completely worth it! Much possibility to come back with a trail bike (not far off now, new one is in the country).

More waiting (eight minutes, which is not bad considering how much more media the others got) gave the chance to top up bottles at the creek and sit on a big rock in the sun looking down the valley.

Another climb from that stream did at least give a good view of the bottom part of the descent. One can see the Mt Melina track, that left the ridge track at its highpoint.

Now down in the Lindis valley floor and past the turn off to Mt Prospect (another riding possibility), nearing a twelve hour day, with the sublime Melina Ridge in there, seemed a reasonable time to look for a nice campsite before getting too close to the highway. We found a sheltered one on some river flats near a tributary that we would turn up the next day and set ourselves up for the night. What a fantastic day of brilliant weather, amazing new views, great company and excellent riding – the pushing wasn’t even that bad either.