Category Archives: GPS

bikepacking, bikes, event, friends, GPS, NZ

GSB21-1: Tekapo to Quailburn

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A late start to the Great Southern Brevet does at least give plenty of time for breakfast at the Greedy Cow and catching up with bikepacking friends from far and wide, finally meeting previously-online friends for the first time and the chance to meet new people who soon become friends. Two years ago, there were only thirty-odd lining up at the Church of the Good Shepherd; this time, I expect due to the difficult in travelling overseas, there were near a hundred riders eager for the adventure ahead. What a privilege in these times, just to have such a large group start and simply shake hands and be with friends sans any distancing restrictions.

With six weeks off the bikepacking bike due to dislocating my shoulder before Christmas, I had simple goals for the 1100 km course. Most importantly, keep my shoulder where it should be; other aims were to see if there was any shoulder pain, take it easy and ride into a little bit of fitness, spend time riding with others, not do much night riding so as to see as much as possible, not exhaust myself before the big event of the summer, see how my lighter kit worked out and generally enjoy a week away riding in amazing part of the country. To try and trick myself into riding slower and shorter days punctuated with more stops, I’d switched to flat pedals and my street shoes – a set-up I typically only use for touring.

Heading down to the start.

Excited to get out there and see what Dave had in store for us. Photo: Dave King.

An hour milling around lots of chatty people pre-ride was excellent, but eventually we got to do what for we came for. Seen off by the cowbell toting locals down the street, I hung around until I was at the back of the field and tootled off up the hill out of town.

Bunched.

It was almost possible to lag behind, but we were soon on gravel then heading up a steep track. The desire to ride up it was still there, but not being attached to my pedals did force a dismount and push. This was working out ok.

Strewn.

That crested, the track improved to a gravel road and views across Lake Pukaki. Dropping down to the lakeside, it was forty kilometres of Alps2Ocean gravel and trail to Twizel; the wind must have been kind as even I managed that in less than two hours. Finding the problem of not having a proper shakedown ride, strangely my front brake began to increasingly rub. Arriving in town mid-afternoon for resupply I was feeling pretty ordinary. Only on leaving town and having many people fly past me, did I make the leap and realise just how much energy that little brake rub was sucking. That adjusted once off the road, everything was right with the world again and I had the semblance of a lease of life.

Which was just as well, as the next section was a good hike-a-bike up the overgrown Flanagan’s Pass. A couple of hours of mostly pushing through farmland then close tussock (at times over twenty percent), with some decent stream crossings, was not unpleasant in the late afternoon.

Somewhere, the remains of a trail under the grasses.

Back east and where we’d come from.

A brief pause at the saddle to layer up and admire the view, twas then onto a rollicking descent. So much fun!

Across the Lake Ohau headwaters

I caught up to Guy partway down and we continued around the lake to rejoin the A20 and familiar trails. With the sun starting to drop, thoughts turned to how far to go for the day. Eileen appeared from somewhere, having been well in front of me – but also having too much fun on the downhill and missing a turn. I’d not made any plans, Omarama seemed too far away for first day back on the bike. Quailburn, as Eileen had suggested, seemed a better idea at 150 km in. Guy and I made our way around the bottom of the lake, first sheltered in the scrub before joining the road and dealing with the wind off the lake. With the recent devastating fires, the campground Adele and I stayed at when we did the A2O a few years ago was closed and looking rather blackened.

Eventually we reached the lodge entrance and the time to turn from the wind for the long gradual climb into the gathering night. Chatting with a few others, it would be the last we’d see of them until back in Tekapo six nights later. Eileen rolled up and after we’d all rested and snacked a bit, the three of us started the climb. A nice steady three percent grade as twilight set in – about an hour it took.

We were all pretty spent and had a bit of a rest at the summit. Somehow I managed the last half hour without turning lights on, but it was quite dark by the time I was hunting out a bivy spot near the historic Quailburn woolshed. A great day back on the bike, save the brake rubbing wasting a bit of energy – but I sorted that and everything was excellent again. Now for the wind to die down while I slept in the lean-to of the woolshed.

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Akitio Overnighter

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I didn’t take much convincing to join one of Amanda’s Tour Te Waipounamu training weekends in neighbouring Tararua district. Learning it was her preferred Wellington escape for gravel roads and hills was enough. Alas, I’m back to having to carefully manage my leave from work, so I couldn’t join for Friday’s riding. Timing it well, we met Friday night at the Dannevirke campground to find it extremely well sheltered from the high winds that had been around all day.

Away at half-six into an overcast and still windy Saturday, a delightful twenty kilometre detour cut out a few kilometres of the busy road to Weber. With no traffic and slight hills, I’m intrigued by the connector to Te Uri (a favourite part of this year’s HBAT course) and the longer option of the loop we did. Back on the Weber road for twenty minutes, we dove off south for the Waitahora Valley and roads all new to me (I’d ridden only seven percent of the day’s route previously). No sooner had the gravel started, than it turned to freshly graded – so fresh we had to negotiate the grader approaching, blade spanning the entire road.

Grader passed safely; beside the Mangatoro Stream.

Next up Amanda had an hour or so of hike-a-bike through the Waewaepa Reserve planned – ten kilometres of long-since overgrown road, now good for ATVs, bikes and walking. But first, a rest. Very rare that I ride for four hours with no stops for food – there’s always something to stop and take a photo of, someone to talk to… But not today, being a bit slower I didn’t stop lest I hold things up or get completely left behind. A big snack break and discussion of what we’d find on the track was welcome.

Well benched for the most part, we were soon pushing up a couple of hundred metres for forty minutes – avoiding the cutty grass, small bogs, water running down the road and, with varying degrees of success, the ongaonga (a stinging nettle). The downhill section was at least mostly rideable, even if there was far more ongaonga to avoid.

Soon down to the Tiraumea River and some flattish riding beside it, only now do I realise how very close we were to State Highway Two and a couple of small towns. We found a spot out of the wind for lunch, before the short section I’d actually been on before (“It looks a nice spot to come back to explore some of the gravel roads I’ve since realised are nearby.“! True words, only took me twenty months…). Pleasingly, I even recognised it – especially the beautiful Makuri Gorge.

Strange to see some traffic again, even stranger to see it flashing high beams at us. We quickly realised that Guy had done a really good job of estimating our progress from my tracker. His bike quickly off the back of the truck, up the fantastic Pori Road we went, chatting all the way helping to pass the climb up to skirt around the south of the Puketois. Guy needn’t have worried about being slow, I was the straggler again – but at least I could try to snap some photos as we rode along.

Grey, green, lumpy.

Down on Route 52 quickly, in one of those tired lapses of concentration it took me a fair while to realise it – the Rapid numbers (in rural areas they measure tens of metres from the start of a road) were improbably high. Route 52 (a long ago declassified highway and very popular for cycle touring) is even quieter in these parts! Heading east for the coast now, the wind was now paying back for all the toil earlier in the day. Still, I lagged. Finally, a water source at Tiraumea Hall – and another big snack stop. Even if my hayfever did kick in.

Shortly after, Guy left us to return up and over the Puketois to his truck. All three eyed warily the ominous black clouds gathering back that way. Straight back on gravel, Amanda and I headed for the beach. Hills abounded again, but the sun continued to shine basically wherever we were. Ahead and behind looked well grim, with legs tiring the tailwind was much appreciated. Occasionally it had to be battled, but generally it pushed us to the coast.

The most striking hills of the day – helps being able to see them.

We chased this rainbow for quite some time, and watched it grow.

I was actually there – about the time we were sure rain would soon dump down, it didn’t.

The last little climb before dropping to Akitio.

Into the wind for the last time, down to see what’s at Akitio.

All day we’d been hoping we’d arrive before the burger van closed. We managed it with an hour to spare, and promptly loaded up with burgers, wedges, fritters and ice cream. It was quickly devoured and at the little campground we were warmly welcomed and advised where best to camp to shelter from the wind. We were only the second group to bike in this year! I think I know the other. How is that possible? It’s a great spot and excellent riding; ok, we were both pretty exhausted – but we didn’t exactly take the direct, flat route. There is much potential around here.

That extra shelter came in handy, as the wind really got up before midnight – before dropping and the sky clearing nicely for sleepy stargazing. Sunday was a slightly later start and, both wanting to get to our respective homes in the late afternoon, a far more direct route. But it wasn’t the most direct as we found extra hills and gravel roads. The wind stayed moderate and with a clear sky I appreciated being able to see more. My GPS logged a fair bit of climbing, so it wasn’t a complete cake walk.

I particularly enjoyed looking north over Central Hawke’s Bay and early-HBAT terrain, not to mention spying the Triple Peaks of Kahuranaki, Erin and Te Mata close to home.

It took riding up to the apiarists to work out that this chopper was hauling hives into the bush.

Guy had told us of Sunday’s country market at Weber, which we found in full swing mid-morning. It was definitely time for tasty paua rolls and such things – as well as catching up with Guy and Jane. Amanda headed south to her car, and me back to Dannevirke to mine, with plenty of time for the drives home. What an excellent weekend of biking new places, eating plenty and spending time with great bikepacking buddies – and not having to do any planning, thanks Amanda! Only the first weekend of December and already the summer is too full of plans to fit in all I want to do – so good to be in that position.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, event, GPS, NZ

HBAT20 shortened

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Ten days between returning from the excellent West Coast bikepacking tour and setting off for the 2020 edition of the Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour was always going to be a bit rushed for sorting out the last minute details. Still all the things were done: farm inductions, finalising the tracking, answering the emails and questions, assembling my bike, getting overly excited and following up a last minute section through stunning private land, adding said section to the route and so on. From a few days out I noticed my hours of sleep gradually decrease to about three hours per night and the telltale tic of tiredness return for the first time in some years.

Twas all worth it though to have fourteen riders assemble at Ranui Farm Park the Thursday night before the four day long weekend. That worked really well (save an annoying miscommunication with room bookings), getting to see everyone for some hours before the ride started at dawn the following morning. So good to have half the field returning riders and get to meet for the first time other people I’d only exchanged emails with.

Friday morning and ready to go before sunrise.

Finally, I could challenge myself on the course I’d designed to be as such, and interesting to me. Turns out more time should have been paid to my pedals, as one promptly fell to pieces and slid off the spindle still attached to my foot. Bit of a showstopper, but as far as a place to have such things happen – one kilometre from the start is about as good as any on a remote course. Sad to see everyone else go, I turned and hoped Greg hadn’t left for Napier already. Phew, he was still there and we were soon heading home – where I swapped in pedals from another bike and made the drive back. The crazy amount of fog from just north of the start all the way to Napier persisted for the drive’s entirety, but strangely was not on the course at all.

Three hours later I was back on the route and wondering if I’d still make my goal of being back in Napier that night. A nice gentle start, in this crazy year it was a privilege to be out riding such a ride with or without the group ahead. Seeing many tyre tracks in the gravel reminded me of this and brought a smile to my face – some of it may have been a touch of pride that I’d somehow convinced people to get out and spend their long weekend on a course I’d designed. They may or may not trust me in such a way again.

Still flat, not for long.

A three hour delay wasn’t really that frustrating, after all I was soon out riding in the sun drenched countryside.

Diverting from last year’s course, the hills quickly began on a section I love. But first, a long moment to pause on the the very spot where a couple of months before I’d met a fantastic farmer who generously allowed us to ride through his farm. Tragically he’s gone far too young after a freak accident on the farm; I only chatted to Harry for quarter of an hour, yet it’s had quite an impact – part of it, another reason to savour being able to get out and make the most of opportunities presented. Eventually back riding – a dead-end road, a hilly farm crossing and then a blissful section with twenty kilometres of gravel, views of the ocean and surrounding farmland, grass up the middle of the little used road and then the long descent to sea level…

After noon by now, the store and excellent coffee cart at Porangahau was most welcome for chatting and refuelling before the steep climb up Old Hill Rd. Was a little mean putting that on the course, but the gradual downhill from the top is, I think, worth it. With over twenty kilometres to go to the beach, the tide would be mostly out by the time I arrived. Along the coastal section of Blackhead Rd, I was entertained by a stunt plane practising – a spectacular show which seemed just for me. The climb at the end of the road was not far from my mind, but conquered as I began to slow a hundred kilometres in.

The tide was still heading out, the sand not yet firm and for the first time that day a headwind – toughest trip on this beach yet.

It was encouraging to see so many people out on the beaches – camping, fishing, diving, walking, on motorbikes. Far more than we saw last year, mostly I expect because the weather was far better. Finding a hose to rinse my bike was a chance to chat to a local and top up water bottles before the big climb out of Pourerere. It’s a good one and I found my first other HBATer of the day at the top – another good opportunity for a chat. I thought I was just going to be on time to cross the second farm before night fell – when riding through was not allowed.

More wonderful, deserted gravel back down to sea level and Kairakau. A lovely evening it was shaping up to be. Stopping at the shearers quarters I found four other riders preparing to make use of the generous offer of accommodation from the farmer – alas the water supply was down. Time was tight for me to get up the big hill, but I, and the others, thought I could do it. Thankfully I know the route well enough, so I was not slowed by route finding difficulties; but I was starting to fade and on the steep, rugged grass farm track pushing my bike became more efficient than trying to ride.

South to all the places I’d just been.

There were far more gates to open and close this year, and plenty of stock around (those two not unrelated). Light fading for the big downhill, I certainly was cutting it fine. Quite the trade-off to make the most of the available light, but not reckless on rough farm tracks in the gathering gloom. Just out before dark, phew, and towards Waimarama. Half-eight by now and completely dark, my plan for making it home hadn’t really changed. It probably should have as I walked anything remotely steep up the last big climb; very odd – I have never come close to walking up Maraetotara Rd, steep as it is, before. Strange thing, I was never in any doubt that I’d make it home – one just had to keep on going.

Suddenly rain on the downhill, it didn’t last long and there was but forty kilometres home. That was just over two hours, and I was pleased to see I’d missed much more rain. Bike in the garage and into my house to sneak around trying not to wake a houseful of fellow bikepackers. I think I managed it, but couldn’t bring myself to find too much food lest I disturb people that had had just as big a day of riding as me. My poor body probably needed the fuel to mend a bit.

Head racing, I hardly slept again and woke early when the house rose to head north for a much tougher day of riding. Completely shattered, I dragged myself up and deliberated whether I should continue the course. I’d at least not fallen into the trap of scratching at the end of the day, instead waiting to see what morning would bring. As it was, there was no energy and a deep fatigue from the previous day and week. Everyone having left, I had nothing and couldn’t rouse myself to a day of many hills that I couldn’t have a good shot at.

So I was left with the ignominy of pulling out of my own ride only a day and one-third in. Disappointing to say the least; and a fair amount of worry that I’d made a ridiculous course that no one would enjoy – funny how those voices materialise. But I knew I was dog-tired and resolved to look after myself and not beat myself up too much. I tried to remind myself that I ride such places for enjoyment; if it’s not fun on some level, there’s little point.

In the end, few made it past Napier and no one finished the 750 km route. Four did amazingly well to make it through the many hills inland of Wairoa and pulled out before the last hundred-odd kilometres back to Napier; I think I misstepped in ending the route in Napier to try and help people with travel logistics. Plenty of things learned again; they may be useful if I find the enthusiasm and energy to run another HBAT. In separating my own disheartening HBAT from the weekend in general: people got out riding bikes, seeing new places in good weather, being challenged and spending time with friends new and old – so I’m counting that as a win.

Since then, I took a couple of weeks doing comparatively little and dealing with the disappointment of my own ride and the tiredness. I was unsure if my excitement for doing big bikepacking rides would return, which was concerning with two big South Island adventures coming up late-summer. Unfortunately I could not get up for the Mega ten days ago, but with a couple of shorter and less ambitious bikepacking trips over the last two weekends, the keenness to ride far and see plenty of new things is slowly returning – huzzah!

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Mangatutu Five

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Tentatively thinking I was recovering from HBAT (which I’ve not found the time or energy to write up yet), a fine forecast was sufficient motivation to schedule my fifth annual overnighter to the Mangatutu Hot Springs. No longer a season opener, it’s still a great little trip and I look forward to it every year. For the third year consecutive trip, I managed to convince someone to join me which is great. Perhaps tellingly, no one has ever come back for a repeat!

Customary bike and kit photo outside the garage.

I’m probably the only one who finds the gradual change in setup over the years interesting. This year I was back on flat pedals (which I have since serviced, they did squeak a little too much), with a cooker packed, frame bag away for zipper repair and, with such a good forecast, no rain clothes and few layers for the night. Off I went rolling down the hill to meet Brent after lunch and set off west on the flat to Puketapu. The last shop we’d see, it’d have been rude not to have a milkshake or ice cream or some such.

The temperature, low twenties, and lack of rain was true to the forecast. The wind aspect not so much as we worked into a most-noticeable westerly along the river flats and then as the hills started mildly. So much greener out that way than my last visit six months ago; soon the familiar sight of the bare Kawekas came into view.

In farmland dominated by dry stock, I’m still mildly surprised to find diary farms in remote Hawke’s Bay hills.

The extra gravel section I added to the route last year was just as pleasing this time around, perhaps even more so as it wasn’t nearly as hot. Cutting north to Puketitiri Road, the wind started to swing a little southwest which was certainly welcomed.

Into Puketitiri itself for a water top-up at the golf course I’ve never seen in use, I was astounded to find the domain packed with cars and people. Turns out we’d happened across the annual local family sports day – postponed from March. We missed most of the action (moto cross, pony jumping etc.) and were slightly too early for dinner, but we did see a series of people trying to throw a sack of something over a high bar with a pitchfork. Most excellent to see such a large community gathering.

I’m told this is not uncommon.

We did see one go over.

Now having climbed six hundred metres above sea level, the part of the day of consistently losing that altitude to regain it soon after began. Ball’s Clearing provided some more water and a suitable snack break as we pondered whether we’d manage the final twenty kilometres before darkness crept in. Back on gravel, the next section with slight dips and rises is always pleasant through a high valley.

Not stopping to admire the view for the plunge down towards the Mohaka.

The first of the three remaining climbs always gives a bit of a shock with its steepness, it however doesn’t quite get back to 600 m. Dropping to the Makahu River, I became suspicious that it might be really high as a small collection of two wheel drive cars was parked where I’ve never seen vehicles left before. Sure enough, it was well over the safe level (for cars) and swift; after all, twas only five days since the extended downpour which flooded Napier properly. But with a firm concrete surface on the bed, it was easily waded – the first time I’ve not been able to ride across it.

Over the river, it’s straight into the toughest climb of the day; I was pleased it was not too hot. Light and energy fading, the last hill is plenty steep – but one doesn’t start from as low, so that helps a little maybe. Finally we were on the long, gentle descent to the road-end and the hot springs. With that river being high, there were few at the campground – we set to making camp, cooking and eating before a well deserved soak in the hot pools under a brilliantly starry sky. Another fabulous and tough afternoon’s ride to Mangatutu completed.

The extra base layer was quickly shed on Sunday morning after warming on the first two climbs out. There was plenty of time for stopping to soak it in, but mostly rest.

Custodian of the northern Kawekas.

Past some sheep shearing, which is not uncommon on this ride, we kept ticking off the “largest climb remaining” and the westerly proved helpful. Up and down towards the coast, on another clear day I again enjoyed the views and it struck me how much I’ve come to appreciate Hawke’s Bay scenery, and hills, over the last five years. I realise just now that’s the longest I’ve lived anywhere since school, I guess it’s become home somewhere along the way.

Back towards Puketapu, the sea breeze began to overpower the westerly so the last sections of flat seemed harder than they should have been – but that was probably in my head. Whichever, it was time for a giant ice cream at the store and the last little bit of riding home. After a cuppa at Brent’s and savouring an excellent outing, there was that last wee struggle to my house – the disadvantage of living up a hill, one’s rides always end with a climb. Proper exhausted for the rest of the day and the following one too – well worth it.