Heavy rain overnight eased slightly, but not enough to entice us outside the hostel until after numerous cups of tea had been consumed. A bit of walking around to waterfalls cascading out of slot canyons above the gorge.

Giving the climbing legs another work out trying to get a better view of the falls.

On the bikes well after noon for a long ride down the valley beside the Ishikarigawa River. Bit of a headwind most of the day, but a lot of cycle trail and trees helped to make it even more pleasant.

Lack of traffic meant being able to stare more at the impressive canyon walls surrounding us.

A path on the outside of a galleria – more pleasant.

Out of the canyon, the valley opened up to rice farming land. We detoured to have second lunch in Kamikawa town – following a recommendation of hostel staff. Town quiet in the middle of a Saturday, but the melted cheese on pasta hot plate dish did not disappoint.

Getting back to our route gave the only climb of the day – all of fifty metres. The remaining twenty-five kilometres spent trying to find quiet gravel routes, but they didn’t always work out. Picturesque riding through the golden rice fields sped by; finding ourselves on stop bank cycling road near the end of the day, the elevated vantage point was appreciated.

Don’t think that bridge is going to get us across; backtracking involved.

River still looking dirty through these flood control gates.

Bypassing Aibetsu we thought we’d try to find somewhere a bit further downstream to camp. We found one of the most elaborate toilet block and gardens with picnic shelter we’d seen yet – away from all other people and roads. It was excellent. On the river side of the stop bank there was a small air strip. Investigation later showed that this strip hosts a large annual model aircraft meet – the toilet block just for that, as no other facilities around. Brilliant place to camp.

It was my turn to bike into town to get supplies. Less than five kilometres into Pippu I was treated to some beautiful evening light, as well as a quick ride on smooth trail with little load on the bike.

As if our little find of a camp spot couldn’t get any better, as we had our last cups of tea of the day we were treated to a large fireworks display beyond Pippu. Fantastic.

Farewell to the Ezo Rider house, a great spot a day off the bike. (Learnt much later that Ezo is an old word for Hokkaido.)

A little backtracking out of town, past the Mt Io volcanic area, before turning south on quiet roads to the town of Teshikaga and resupply (food, food and gas canister – konbini and DCM).

That’s a different way of loading logs on a truck, don’t think I’d ever see the like in NZ

Leaving town we took country roads for ten kilometres through river flat farm land before rejoining the quiet highway for a sustained, wiggly climb. A very cloudy day, but the humidity had returned to keep us sweating. But pretty gentle riding, and plenty of trees to look at.

Occasional peaks of mountains off in the distance. The closest one being Mt Oakan, the volcano which formed the caldera lake Akan.

Another abandoned building, just past the road summit – an old roadhouse, or visitor centre? Nice to stop for a bit.

Long galleria to break up the arboreal view.

Shortly after joining a busier highway, and reaching Akan, there was some walking to be done to the edge of Lake Akan. Fortunately or not, not enough time to continue to the summit of Mt Oakan. Some good West Coast style trail – gnarly roots, moss covered…

Into the touristy town of Akan for lunch and a wander past bubbling mud pools – reminders of a different part of home.

A lot of coloured covers in the streets – eye-catching.

Bit of time at an Ainu culture/handcraft street of shops aimed at all the tourists. My appreciation of such areas is not high, so only the one photo. Most of the crafts were wood or antler carvings – I probably should have taken a closer look, but little chance I was going to buy anything and then carry it for weeks.

Twenty more kilometres mostly climbing to camp beside Lake Onneto for the night. Last little bit on a gravel road off the highway, beautiful riding through close forest. Unfortunately a little late for the cafe still to be open, but a nice campground covered in by big trees. Another enjoyable, despite the gloom, day on the bikes – nice to be in the hills.