Nice to get some daylight and see our night’s carriage-skeleton shelter, kept us dry and somewhere to sit – happy with that.

There was also some war memorials in the park.

Off the hill, west took us alongside a water race initially.

First konbini after five kilometres of countryside, on the edge of a town that seems to have sprung up around a picturesque gorge. More fading glory beside a glass factory matched the mood as drizzle set in for the day.

The walk alongside the gorge was closed, so we made do with short stops at bridges trying not to get too wet too early.

Remainder of the day spent riding in the rain, but it was warm – so not uncomfortable, just soaked through by the end. Still beautiful rural countryside though. Trying to get out of the weather at times lead to our day of most decent interactions with locals.

The one time it started tipping down there was an open shed right next to the road, so we sheltered there for a bit. We must have been spotted as the farmer came down to see what was going on – we enjoyed learning of his family farm and trying to explain what we were up to (Rachel’s polarsteps map, as always best, for that). He even went back into the house and brought us cold soft drinks, snacks and fizzy electrolyte tablets (those I particularly liked).

His farmhouse; only fifty years old, we thought it much older.

On the outskirts of Kurihara, it was getting towards lunchtime and time to find somewhere warm inside to eat. The cafe we found was recently opened in the bottom of an old house that a young couple had renovated. The only customers, we enjoyed both the food and conversation with the young man.

As well as tea from a pot.

Having been told about a large temple complex nearby, we had to check it out – far less touristy and just as good, if not better, to us than the one we’d seen the previous day.

Seems the only thing I took photos of for the rest of the afternoon were covers that were just as soaked as we were.

The only time we used airbnb in Japan, we were very well looked after by Ken and Aya – they welcomed two drowned cyclists and provided everything we needed. Ken was a retired Japan Rail station manager, plenty of rail memorabilia around the house. Once we were dry and warm, more good chats.

They drove us across town for dinner, introducing us to family (chain) restaurants – plenty of food and reasonably priced, good to remember for hungry cyclists.