around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Five Beaches

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With vague notions of meeting others for some long-weekend bikepacking not eventuating, when Gill posted about riding Five Beaches I was keen – it promised to be a leisurely ride and I didn’t have to drive far. Based on the first hundred kilometres of the inaugural Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour, it had somehow made it into last year’s Bikepacking Aotearoa – to my delight. Having not ridden the whole loop in one trip, it seemed a good use of a couple of days.

Mild autumn weather greeted us as I met Gill and Bernard in Waipukurau. Bikes assembled and cars stashed, we were off along very familiar roads. The backroads were typically quiet and I very much enjoyed seeing the area in a different season – still looking generally very dry, there was at least some colour remaining in the trees. With only sixty kilometres on the plan for the day, it was nice to take our time – plenty of food stops and general rests. Riding with Bernard a bit it was most gratifying to see his face light up with the delight of ever changing rural views – much how I felt the first time riding through here.

Old Hill Road ridge riding always a favourite.

In Porangahau before half-two, the day’s riding was pretty much done! Plenty of time for an ice cream and chat with Orlando at Flotsam and Jetsam – slowly possibilities for this year’s HBAT are interesting me. Bernard was keen to see the world’s longest place name, so we duly obliged with a short detour before heading for the campground at the beach.

Camp made, there was so much time to spare. Into the westerly, we returned to town for dinner at the pub. Outside the diary we found two more bikepackers (also from Wellington) with fish and chips. Turned out we’d spied them removing bikes from their van as we started off; more delight to learn that they were also following the Five Beaches route and thoroughly enjoying it. We ditched the pub idea and went for burgers and chips – tasty.

Barely dark returning to camp, after showering and a cup of tea I was unsure what to do with all the extra time. Nine o’clock wasn’t too early to snuggle into my tent for a good night’s sleep? I hope not, as that’s what I did – on a very mild night, despite the clear skies. With good company it had been a fantastic relaxing day, after finally breaking nineteen minutes at parkrun with some effort.

An even more glorious day dawned for us Sunday, a bit of breeze overnight keeping our little tent collection pretty dry. Not having two days to spare to ride the remaining hundred-plus kilometres, I bid farewell to the Wellington crew and set off for the rest of the beaches and Waipukurau – a gentle breeze behind me.

The hills seemed smaller than previously, the wind must have been stronger than I thought. A strange amount of traffic passed me on Blackhead Rd, but that hardly slowed me in reaching the Blackhead to Pourerere beach section just before low tide. With few people around and that wind, it was far easier on the hard packed sand than my previous visit. A beautiful morning to soak in the sun and scenery.

With so much space, I got to practice snapping photos while riding in the opposite direction.

First of the two hills of note dealt with, Clareinch Rd is always a delight. Finally I made the short detour to see a sixth beach – Mangakura. With far fewer houses, it was for many years a private beach on a farm – but over time a small number of sections were divided amongst the family and some then sold on. I learnt all this from a friendly family that farm back on Ugly Hill Rd (which forms part of the start of the route) and they were happy to share some history, and top up my water bottle.

Just up the road was the fifth of the five beaches, Kairakau; it was easy to pop down there and see it again. Not so easy turning back into the wind. Up the other hill of note for the day, the wind didn’t make the drop down to the Tukituki that fast – but the Patangata Tavern appeared for lunch sooner than I was expecting.

With the last of the rural scenes still showing autumn colours, I was back in Waipawa and soon Waipukurau having had a thoroughly enjoyable day and a bit on the wee Five Beaches route. It’s like someone knew the type of riding I like.


bikes, friends, MTB, national park, NZ

Classic Ruapehu District rides

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Getting wind of Anton’s planned weekend away mountain biking some classic trails near Ruapehu, it wasn’t long before I’d signed up/invited myself along. It had been a very long time since I’d been on a mountain biking weekend away, but I was keen to ride some of these trails relatively unloaded and on a squishy bike for a change.

First up, thirteen of us piled into the shuttle to the start of the Bridge to Nowhere trail on a misty and wet morning. Thankfully the heavy rain overnight had ceased. In hindsight, there was plenty of time to have ridden the thirty-four kilometres from Raetihi to the trailhead and I’d have enjoyed that more than a stuffy bus – but I was trying to be at least a little social and fit in, already feeling like a curiosity for not carrying a pack, having small bags strapped to my bike and generally enthusing too much about riding far on a loaded bike.

This is different.

First up, an easy climb for half an hour; the surface was pleasingly good.

Sitting around 600 m altitude for a while, we passed the Kaiwhakauka junction – from here on, I’d ridden on the Tour Aotearoa five years before. This time I was not nearly as tired, or contemplating such a big day. At the Mangapurua Trig after an hour, it was all downhill more or less to the river.

The quarter of an hour dropping four hundred metres to the stream was the best riding of the weekend for me. Chasing and then leading Dan (a fellow ex-NZ Steel graduate who I’d not seen for over twelve years) down the slippery (papa mud is notorious) double track at speed just on the right side of control was excellent. Being much slighter than Dan, I had to work hard to keep up with his momentum; the whole descent was grin-inducing with only the occasional two wheel slides around some of the sharper corners. So. Much. Fun.

Regrouping at one of the small shelters, the misty drizzle set in. Continuing while chatting about bikepacking (again, eyeroll) to Dan we were just cruising. That is until we were passed and I realised we were wasting a good downhill. Unfortunately I timed picking my speed up with one of the big holes we had been warned about. I managed to avoid it, but fell in the process and was fortunate not to be run over. I got off lightly with only a bruised and scraped knee and a sore wrist – along with being somewhat covered in mud, now slower and with my ego taking a hit.

The trail seemed in excellent condition and rounding slips and bluffs was far less precarious than I remembered. We were at the Bridge in no time, close to an hour and a half before we were to meet the jet boat. Plenty of time to linger and appreciate the bush and remoteness; until the rain set in again, that is, and we moseyed down to the shelter above the landing.

Yup, to nowhere.

All loaded up for the forty minutes down the river, just missing something.

A few kayakers coming to join us at the landing for a bit.

Eventually we got on the boat…

The rain really set in and it could have been a miserable trip down to Pipiriki. But I was just warm and protected enough that I could still enjoy and appreciate the incredible Whanganui River and its dense surrounds – majestical. Alas, no photos worth sharing with so much water flying around.

Loading the bikes again, wet and muddy we did a number on the bus interior for the tortuous trip to the northern trailhead of the Old Coach Rd. Unloading at Horopito the northerly was very strong and strangely chilly – but once moving, it did blow us quickly along the open part of the trail before we entered the bush. Another excellent trail, and being the old road for horse drawn coaches between two railheads gradually converging to form the North Island Main Trunk, it was well made. Heading in this direction was definitely faster than bikepacking in the opposite one, so less time to savour it and read all the historical signs.

A few planks would do it?

Everyone, that I heard, rated the trail very highly and at only an hour of riding twas a great end to a day out in the elements. Mountain Kebabs downed in Ohakune, forty minutes took us back to Raetihi in fading light and then dark. Noting the propensity of mountain bikers to wear mostly black and not carry lights, I was happy to play lantern rouge at the back in my bright green top and with a couple of blinky lights. I did have to find another dinner at the only option in the village, so I must have done some work – but with only sixty kilometres and little climbing in the legs for the day, it can’t have been much. After the murky and atmospheric day through some remote sections of the North Island, it was a contented and subdued group at the house that night.

Sunday I was excited to return to the 42nd Traverse – the first big, backcountry ride I ever did way back in 2005 and when I met some good riding buddies. Well, it seemed a big, remote adventure back then when I was much less experienced, bikes were far less rideable and reliable, and there was a lot less trail beta out there. That first time it was a whole-day undertaking, but I returned three years later and found it only took two and a half hours with one other. I did remember big ruts and holes, and tough long climbs…

Starting at 900 m, the drizzle quickly had us very wet and muddy – but it was warm. Route finding was much easier – there are trail markers now, who’d have thought? We passed a few vehicles coming back from a morning hunt, the surface was very good. Gone were all the big obstacles; sure, it was damp and possibly slippery – but all easily rideable. An hour of gradual downhill and we were then able to rip down the steeper descent – nothing too wild and more good fun. The seven of us were of a similar pace all day so there was little waiting around, it worked well.

Food time at the halfway point, not the whole reason for a big smile – a good wee adventure in progress.

The only walking section of the whole route. Seeing this, jackets came off despite it still raining – it was that warm.

I’m unsurprised that the climbs weren’t nearly as bad as they seemed over a decade ago – I may be a bit more used to hills. Still eight hundred metres in forty-five kilometres is some climbing. I was just happy to be able to keep pedalling as my gear shifting was playing up; time to replace jockey wheels it turns out. The rain ceased and the afternoon started to clear and warm – in time for the climbing of course. The native forest was far denser and more impressive than I remembered; another fun little ride done as we overcame the wet, wheel-sucking gravel into Owhango.

Completing the vehicle shuffle, we loaded up, said our goodbyes and headed home. A very unusual weekend of biking for me – far more time and distance spent in transit between rides (only rode 110 km all up) than I am used to, I found it a bit weird. But never mind, it enabled riding of some excellent routes with a great crew. Thanks to Anton for an incredible job of organising the whole weekend and marshalling us all – no mean feat.

Finally got to see the mountains we’d been playing in the shadow of all weekend when we stopped in Taupo on the way home for an early dinner.

Strange seeing my under-utilised mountain bike lightly loaded – before it got filthy.

bikepacking, bikes, event, NZ

TTW21-9: Lawrence to Slope Point

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Another night of paid accommodation, another night of poor sleep – far too hot in an actual room! With the Night and Day opening at six, we were there then fuelling up for the day ahead. Straight into the biggest hill of the day, the actually-named Breakneck Road (as opposed to the colloquial one on the hill I live) and I was feeling flat – nowhere near Olly and Matt ahead. But a bit of remote encouragement and the sunrise perked me up no end, even if I didn’t climb much faster – it became enjoyable (as far as such climbs can be straight after early breakfast).

At times we rode together, actually most of the way to Clinton we were there or thereabouts.

Another stunning day to finish this thing off (the third day being the only one with any real cloud cover, moisture and chill in the air) – we could not have asked for better weather. The Southland rural scenes unfolded before us, but as each large hill approaching became the highest point left, it felt like a bit of a procession to the finish.

Not a fast procession, mind you – after the final shop stop in Clinton, I didn’t have the legs to keep up with the others and I really didn’t mind. I was more than happy in my own little world, singing away to whatever was playing (no need to conserve battery at this point!), contemplating the previous 1300-odd kilometres and all the challenges overcome.

Approaching Mokoreta, time to eat the large lunch and put it to more use than bike-ballast.

A nice section of gravel through the Waikawa Valley, but – what’s this? A headwind?! Tellingly, the weather had been so good that approaching the south coast of the island was the only time I remember having to fight against the wind while riding. We’d got off very lightly with the weather indeed.

Rounding towards Curio Bay (the ocean!), the finish was a little further than I remembered – and there were still hills to go, of course.

One last 100 m climb and there it was, a roll down the road and then across a paddock to the finish! Very pleased with that, and to finish in the daylight with riding buddies for much of the previous six days, Olly and Matt, there too; that their partners had brought quite a lot of food had nothing to do with it…

Shorts looking a little looser than a week before.

Finishing very much mid-pack of the thirty-seven starters, I’m still not sure I can comprehend just what meeting and overcoming such a challenging course – amongst everything else going on – quite means. It may only become apparent when other big challenges come up and I can draw on the knowledge and experience what finishing the inaugural Tour Te Waipounamu has done for me

I did know I was hungry, my lower legs and ankles were very tight (twas five days until I could walk pain free) and my plans for a pick-up had fallen through – so a ride back to an Airbnb and helping to see to the huge amount of food there was just what I needed! Too tired and sore to get out of the house, I had to make do with watching the dots of those finishing that evening.

Entree?

Thanks again to Brian and the landowners for generously giving the opportunity to attempt such a tough route and see so many stunning parts of our little country – much appreciated and savoured.

bikepacking, bikes, event, NZ

TTW21-8: Mt Ida Water Race to Lawrence

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Save a brief flurry of throwing rocks at a bold and inquisitive possum, it was a good night’s sleep in the copse. That is not to say we were quick to get going for the half-hour gentle downhill to Oturehua – where we found Matt decamping right next to the store. Rumour had it that the shopkeeper would open early for us at eight o’clock, so we had time to sort a few things out. To our surprise, the store opened shortly after at seven-thirty – we promptly bought a lot of food for breakfast and the day ahead.

I was particularly pleased with this.

Fibre coming in 2121.

Well supplied, the flat section of rail trail and deserted gravel roads up the Ida Valley were easy miles and much appreciated. To my surprise, there was an Open sign outside the old Poolburn pub – couldn’t not investigate that, even if it was only little more than an hour since Oturehua (no more resupply for 120 km). Nine-thirty didn’t seem to be early to having an ice cream, amongst other things, with the two guys that had recently bought the premises on a bit of a whim. Not quite with a liquor licence yet, it was great to see the place open. Some avid dot-watchers and trail angels also tracked me down, so that was worth stopping a little longer for before heading up to Poolburn Reservoir.

Olly and Matt on the last stretch of flat road for the day.

The seven hundred metre climb on a typically sweltering, still Central Otago summer’s day was much as it has been before – with one notable exception, the traffic! Filming just having started on a new Lord of the Rings TV series we were constantly passed in both directions by a seemingly never-ending contingent of cast and crew vehicles. So many hired Toyotas, first time I’ve been pleased to see a Ford Ranger. Despite the numbers, I found the traffic courteous and the dust wasn’t too bad.

Finally at the reservoir, a chance for shirt soaking.

Through the little gorge after the dam, we left the filming behind us and I was excited to continue heading south to some terrain I’d not seen before.

It was vast, but at least tracked so there was no pushing required.

The high point for the day was hit around two o’clock, but this wasn’t too much comfort knowing Lake Onslow was still to come. Past Serpentine Diggings we first found a saturated bog before eventually another stream – great for a cool off and topping up bottles. Joining a section of the GSB21 course, I was thankful for this weather instead of toiling into the freezing southerly of three weeks before.

The road down to Lake Onslow and then stretching out behind up more hills;
we’d end up riding a fair bit of that ridge right to left.

Unfortunately, we ended up taking that road up and down to the lake – instead of the flat one around the lake edge.

I pushed a fair bit of the steeper sections of the climb beyond the lake, still fascinated by the light play on the folds of the hills.
Nice to see it in more light this time.

We left the road for more private farmland, hoping for some downhill – but got a bit more climbing along said ridge for eight kilometres or so.

We did wonder if we’d have to ride every track in this photo, but no – we were spared that fate.
The following day’s terrain stretching into the distance.

A screaming downhill through the farm before a lumpy section for an hour or so on public and then private roads. While excellent to see more new places, I must have been getting tired and too focussed on getting it done to remember much of it.

The long downhills were enjoyable!

Across the Clutha to Beaumont, where the pub and dinner waited. Nice evening for a ride, again!

Matt and Olly rolling down to food.

A large steak, eggs, onion rings and copious amounts of fries were devoured before the easy riverside trail twenty kilometres to a motel in Lawrence – half in the dark, but we made it in time before the staff had all called it a night. Another big day, it wasn’t quite as easy as hoped (after the previous two) being in the scorching sun all day. By this stage, the end of an incredible week was drawing near and I was just happy to keep things ticking over, taking a bit of extra care of both my body (managing the tight ankles while walking, less of that this day, and riding) and my front wheel (still missing only one spoke). Only a hundred and fifty kilometres to go!

Biking to go places, going places to bike.