Category Archives: around home

around home, bikepacking, bikes, event, GPS, NZ

HBAT20 shortened

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Ten days between returning from the excellent West Coast bikepacking tour and setting off for the 2020 edition of the Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour was always going to be a bit rushed for sorting out the last minute details. Still all the things were done: farm inductions, finalising the tracking, answering the emails and questions, assembling my bike, getting overly excited and following up a last minute section through stunning private land, adding said section to the route and so on. From a few days out I noticed my hours of sleep gradually decrease to about three hours per night and the telltale tic of tiredness return for the first time in some years.

Twas all worth it though to have fourteen riders assemble at Ranui Farm Park the Thursday night before the four day long weekend. That worked really well (save an annoying miscommunication with room bookings), getting to see everyone for some hours before the ride started at dawn the following morning. So good to have half the field returning riders and get to meet for the first time other people I’d only exchanged emails with.

Friday morning and ready to go before sunrise.

Finally, I could challenge myself on the course I’d designed to be as such, and interesting to me. Turns out more time should have been paid to my pedals, as one promptly fell to pieces and slid off the spindle still attached to my foot. Bit of a showstopper, but as far as a place to have such things happen – one kilometre from the start is about as good as any on a remote course. Sad to see everyone else go, I turned and hoped Greg hadn’t left for Napier already. Phew, he was still there and we were soon heading home – where I swapped in pedals from another bike and made the drive back. The crazy amount of fog from just north of the start all the way to Napier persisted for the drive’s entirety, but strangely was not on the course at all.

Three hours later I was back on the route and wondering if I’d still make my goal of being back in Napier that night. A nice gentle start, in this crazy year it was a privilege to be out riding such a ride with or without the group ahead. Seeing many tyre tracks in the gravel reminded me of this and brought a smile to my face – some of it may have been a touch of pride that I’d somehow convinced people to get out and spend their long weekend on a course I’d designed. They may or may not trust me in such a way again.

Still flat, not for long.

A three hour delay wasn’t really that frustrating, after all I was soon out riding in the sun drenched countryside.

Diverting from last year’s course, the hills quickly began on a section I love. But first, a long moment to pause on the the very spot where a couple of months before I’d met a fantastic farmer who generously allowed us to ride through his farm. Tragically he’s gone far too young after a freak accident on the farm; I only chatted to Harry for quarter of an hour, yet it’s had quite an impact – part of it, another reason to savour being able to get out and make the most of opportunities presented. Eventually back riding – a dead-end road, a hilly farm crossing and then a blissful section with twenty kilometres of gravel, views of the ocean and surrounding farmland, grass up the middle of the little used road and then the long descent to sea level…

After noon by now, the store and excellent coffee cart at Porangahau was most welcome for chatting and refuelling before the steep climb up Old Hill Rd. Was a little mean putting that on the course, but the gradual downhill from the top is, I think, worth it. With over twenty kilometres to go to the beach, the tide would be mostly out by the time I arrived. Along the coastal section of Blackhead Rd, I was entertained by a stunt plane practising – a spectacular show which seemed just for me. The climb at the end of the road was not far from my mind, but conquered as I began to slow a hundred kilometres in.

The tide was still heading out, the sand not yet firm and for the first time that day a headwind – toughest trip on this beach yet.

It was encouraging to see so many people out on the beaches – camping, fishing, diving, walking, on motorbikes. Far more than we saw last year, mostly I expect because the weather was far better. Finding a hose to rinse my bike was a chance to chat to a local and top up water bottles before the big climb out of Pourerere. It’s a good one and I found my first other HBATer of the day at the top – another good opportunity for a chat. I thought I was just going to be on time to cross the second farm before night fell – when riding through was not allowed.

More wonderful, deserted gravel back down to sea level and Kairakau. A lovely evening it was shaping up to be. Stopping at the shearers quarters I found four other riders preparing to make use of the generous offer of accommodation from the farmer – alas the water supply was down. Time was tight for me to get up the big hill, but I, and the others, thought I could do it. Thankfully I know the route well enough, so I was not slowed by route finding difficulties; but I was starting to fade and on the steep, rugged grass farm track pushing my bike became more efficient than trying to ride.

South to all the places I’d just been.

There were far more gates to open and close this year, and plenty of stock around (those two not unrelated). Light fading for the big downhill, I certainly was cutting it fine. Quite the trade-off to make the most of the available light, but not reckless on rough farm tracks in the gathering gloom. Just out before dark, phew, and towards Waimarama. Half-eight by now and completely dark, my plan for making it home hadn’t really changed. It probably should have as I walked anything remotely steep up the last big climb; very odd – I have never come close to walking up Maraetotara Rd, steep as it is, before. Strange thing, I was never in any doubt that I’d make it home – one just had to keep on going.

Suddenly rain on the downhill, it didn’t last long and there was but forty kilometres home. That was just over two hours, and I was pleased to see I’d missed much more rain. Bike in the garage and into my house to sneak around trying not to wake a houseful of fellow bikepackers. I think I managed it, but couldn’t bring myself to find too much food lest I disturb people that had had just as big a day of riding as me. My poor body probably needed the fuel to mend a bit.

Head racing, I hardly slept again and woke early when the house rose to head north for a much tougher day of riding. Completely shattered, I dragged myself up and deliberated whether I should continue the course. I’d at least not fallen into the trap of scratching at the end of the day, instead waiting to see what morning would bring. As it was, there was no energy and a deep fatigue from the previous day and week. Everyone having left, I had nothing and couldn’t rouse myself to a day of many hills that I couldn’t have a good shot at.

So I was left with the ignominy of pulling out of my own ride only a day and one-third in. Disappointing to say the least; and a fair amount of worry that I’d made a ridiculous course that no one would enjoy – funny how those voices materialise. But I knew I was dog-tired and resolved to look after myself and not beat myself up too much. I tried to remind myself that I ride such places for enjoyment; if it’s not fun on some level, there’s little point.

In the end, few made it past Napier and no one finished the 750 km route. Four did amazingly well to make it through the many hills inland of Wairoa and pulled out before the last hundred-odd kilometres back to Napier; I think I misstepped in ending the route in Napier to try and help people with travel logistics. Plenty of things learned again; they may be useful if I find the enthusiasm and energy to run another HBAT. In separating my own disheartening HBAT from the weekend in general: people got out riding bikes, seeing new places in good weather, being challenged and spending time with friends new and old – so I’m counting that as a win.

Since then, I took a couple of weeks doing comparatively little and dealing with the disappointment of my own ride and the tiredness. I was unsure if my excitement for doing big bikepacking rides would return, which was concerning with two big South Island adventures coming up late-summer. Unfortunately I could not get up for the Mega ten days ago, but with a couple of shorter and less ambitious bikepacking trips over the last two weekends, the keenness to ride far and see plenty of new things is slowly returning – huzzah!

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Mangatutu Five

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Tentatively thinking I was recovering from HBAT (which I’ve not found the time or energy to write up yet), a fine forecast was sufficient motivation to schedule my fifth annual overnighter to the Mangatutu Hot Springs. No longer a season opener, it’s still a great little trip and I look forward to it every year. For the third year consecutive trip, I managed to convince someone to join me which is great. Perhaps tellingly, no one has ever come back for a repeat!

Customary bike and kit photo outside the garage.

I’m probably the only one who finds the gradual change in setup over the years interesting. This year I was back on flat pedals (which I have since serviced, they did squeak a little too much), with a cooker packed, frame bag away for zipper repair and, with such a good forecast, no rain clothes and few layers for the night. Off I went rolling down the hill to meet Brent after lunch and set off west on the flat to Puketapu. The last shop we’d see, it’d have been rude not to have a milkshake or ice cream or some such.

The temperature, low twenties, and lack of rain was true to the forecast. The wind aspect not so much as we worked into a most-noticeable westerly along the river flats and then as the hills started mildly. So much greener out that way than my last visit six months ago; soon the familiar sight of the bare Kawekas came into view.

In farmland dominated by dry stock, I’m still mildly surprised to find diary farms in remote Hawke’s Bay hills.

The extra gravel section I added to the route last year was just as pleasing this time around, perhaps even more so as it wasn’t nearly as hot. Cutting north to Puketitiri Road, the wind started to swing a little southwest which was certainly welcomed.

Into Puketitiri itself for a water top-up at the golf course I’ve never seen in use, I was astounded to find the domain packed with cars and people. Turns out we’d happened across the annual local family sports day – postponed from March. We missed most of the action (moto cross, pony jumping etc.) and were slightly too early for dinner, but we did see a series of people trying to throw a sack of something over a high bar with a pitchfork. Most excellent to see such a large community gathering.

I’m told this is not uncommon.

We did see one go over.

Now having climbed six hundred metres above sea level, the part of the day of consistently losing that altitude to regain it soon after began. Ball’s Clearing provided some more water and a suitable snack break as we pondered whether we’d manage the final twenty kilometres before darkness crept in. Back on gravel, the next section with slight dips and rises is always pleasant through a high valley.

Not stopping to admire the view for the plunge down towards the Mohaka.

The first of the three remaining climbs always gives a bit of a shock with its steepness, it however doesn’t quite get back to 600 m. Dropping to the Makahu River, I became suspicious that it might be really high as a small collection of two wheel drive cars was parked where I’ve never seen vehicles left before. Sure enough, it was well over the safe level (for cars) and swift; after all, twas only five days since the extended downpour which flooded Napier properly. But with a firm concrete surface on the bed, it was easily waded – the first time I’ve not been able to ride across it.

Over the river, it’s straight into the toughest climb of the day; I was pleased it was not too hot. Light and energy fading, the last hill is plenty steep – but one doesn’t start from as low, so that helps a little maybe. Finally we were on the long, gentle descent to the road-end and the hot springs. With that river being high, there were few at the campground – we set to making camp, cooking and eating before a well deserved soak in the hot pools under a brilliantly starry sky. Another fabulous and tough afternoon’s ride to Mangatutu completed.

The extra base layer was quickly shed on Sunday morning after warming on the first two climbs out. There was plenty of time for stopping to soak it in, but mostly rest.

Custodian of the northern Kawekas.

Past some sheep shearing, which is not uncommon on this ride, we kept ticking off the “largest climb remaining” and the westerly proved helpful. Up and down towards the coast, on another clear day I again enjoyed the views and it struck me how much I’ve come to appreciate Hawke’s Bay scenery, and hills, over the last five years. I realise just now that’s the longest I’ve lived anywhere since school, I guess it’s become home somewhere along the way.

Back towards Puketapu, the sea breeze began to overpower the westerly so the last sections of flat seemed harder than they should have been – but that was probably in my head. Whichever, it was time for a giant ice cream at the store and the last little bit of riding home. After a cuppa at Brent’s and savouring an excellent outing, there was that last wee struggle to my house – the disadvantage of living up a hill, one’s rides always end with a climb. Proper exhausted for the rest of the day and the following one too – well worth it.

around home, family, MTB, NZ

North and south family visits

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With a big bikepacking trip cancelled, a pandemic did at least leave me with masses of annual leave and substantial flight credit. Internal travel restrictions eased, it was high-time to pop down and see family in Central Otago. For mid-winter, it wasn’t as cold as one would expect in Naseby and we managed plenty of time outside.

Flying into Dunedin, Naseby nestled over yonder in front of the Ida Range.

First up, a walk around Sutton Salt Lake – NZ’s only inland salt lake apparently. A pleasant little walk around the geographical curiosity.

The Rock and Pillars completely devoid of snow – glad I didn’t bother to bring my skis down.

Plenty of rocks to negotiate; smoke from a burn-off drifting lazily down the Taieri Valley.

For a change, I’d not travelled with a bike and hadn’t really planned on doing any riding. James had other ideas…
Forgoing a bike my size due to lack of front brakes, I tried to remember how to mountain-bike on a bike two sizes too large and in shoes too small. I ended up riding it on five consecutive days, much fun was had – especially when a pedal became near impossible to unclip from.

Naseby Forest.

Adele didn’t have to expend much effort in getting me to join her on a rogaine. She was looking well forward to her first athletic event after over a year of baby-related layoff. We realised it was the first event we’ve ever done together – All Pheasant and Correct turned up, ran a little, got slightly lost, walked a lot, and found as many checkpoints as we could in the three allotted hours. Much fun traipsing over the hills just out of Alexandra – even if the singletrack had me wishing for a bike, and the briar roses and matagouri thorns tore us to shreds. Impressive to see so many families and children out running around every which way

The Clutha flowing through Alexandra.

Such an unusual landscape for NZ; all those trails…

Already further west in Central, it was a good opportunity to meet online friends, catch up with old friends and stay with family in Wanaka.

We may have snuck in a Sticky Forest ride too. Superb; not much snow over here either.

The rest of the time in Naseby was spent riding, walking around, discussing house-build plans, short doses of nephew-entertaining/minding and working on depleting the gin stock. All too soon twas time to return north.

But one week later, Mum visited for a week (a trip planned pre-lockdown). Conveniently, many of us were sent to work from home for three days – so that was timed well. Such a visit deserved another long weekend; I was keen to show off Mahia Peninsula, so that way we headed for a few days of walking, gravel roads and even a little caving.

Couldn’t believe I was up here without a bike!

The peninsula’s scenic reserve has a great technical walk through thick native bush. With plenty of stream crossings, we managed to keep our feet dry – just, and generally avoid the mud.

We explored to the end of Kinikini Rd, if only I could find a link through to make a loop…

Another place to add to the list of where one might find horses freely roaming the roads.

Sunday was time to take in another favourite gravel road before checking out the short walk behind Morere Hot Springs – things one doesn’t do while bikepacking. Well worth a visit if you’re going past.

Tunanui Rd is still fantastic.

The grove of nikau palms is startlingly large – I was quite taken aback.

Monday was for retracing part of a scouting ride from last year – I thought Mum would like the cave I’ve not heard anyone else mention, but I think is pretty neat hidden away in a paddock at the top of a sizeable hill.

There’s a steep climb up through some limestone bluffs to begin with.

We enjoyed scampering around Mangaone Cave for a short time.

There ended a fun little weekend away around Mahia with Mum. After what is now an unusual flurry of travel, some normalcy is returning to life as attention turns to sorting HBAT details – as that pandemic allows.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, hiking

Bell Rock & Tiwhanui

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With a recent foray into small trail runs, I started looking for a suitable day to finally get up to Bell Rock. It’s notoriously windy up there, the kind of wind where people my size struggle to stand up. Liking to stay near the ground when running, I patiently waited for a clear day (the views are one of the drawcards) with little wind.

After a week of wintry weather, and while the first park run in months tired me out, I was not wasting a glorious Saturday afternoon. Quite a drive later, I was at the trailhead rather counting on that I’d get back before dark. Only three kilometres out, the trail starts with a steep, rooty and slippery section through native bush. I was slow enough not to injure myself, before emerging onto the ridge – the sheltered side it turned out.

Those hills on the coast became more familiar the following day.

Longer, tussocky grass surrounded and then turned into the route. In the shaded parts of the undulations snow lingered from two days before. That was negotiated slowly, but without incident before a climb over the ridge put me into the wind. I’m glad I chose a stiller day – it was very blowly, and just warm enough to linger without extra layers chatting to a few other daytrippers.

As expected, the views were expansive and I thoroughly enjoyed picking out roads and hills I’d ridden, all the while helping to further piece the jigsaw of Hawke’s Bay together.

The northern face of the Kawekas, with some rare snow.

North over the Mohaka and stretching towards Whirinaki.

Mahia Peninsula in the background, must get back there.

Yup, more hills.

Turning, I followed the ridge line all the way back to the road and then that to the car. Fantastic little run, I await a few spare hours and the weather coinciding again.

After liaising with farmers for access across three farms to reach my favourite Hawke’s Bay views for this year’s HBAT, Sunday was the day to scout it out. The first farm was a bit of a long shot, and is not really necessary for the route – but it would add variety. I also suspect I’d be roundly cursed – the other two farms are steep enough, this was another level. Having said that, it was absolutely brilliant – steep climbs on mostly-dry grassed tracks, frequent views of so many Hawke’s Bay landmarks, remote and deserted as far as people went (the stock were numerous, and mystified).

Partway up the first climb, looking down on the farmhouse; Cape Kidnappers on the horizon.

My path was level, briefly – but still surrounded by hills.

Welcoming party to another farmhouse, now unused, and with no road access. Private beach is pretty good, but.

Fair warning of the start of the next climb.

I missed a track turning left and when I realised, it made more sense to just forge ahead on the track I was on and get back on route. Sure it was hilly, but how hard could eight hundred metres be. I need the hike-a-bike practice after all.

I found myself atop cliffs earlier than expected.

They may have been subsiding a little; looking toward Wairoa.

That’s the way I was heading, after the summit.

Those twelve kilometres only took two hours. Eight hundred metres of climbing, with a fair bit of descent (some of that also hike-a-bike), was a solid start to the day’s loop. Napier just visible in the centre, the three peaks behind Havelock North also just there.

One of the reasons I love being up there.

There starts a screaming descent on a not too-rough, but hardly smooth, farm track. Most enjoyable, especially as everything had dried out after the week’s rain.

A few more, littler, hills.

Bell Rock is up in the cloud covered hills.

Out of the farms, that was a fraction of the distance for the day. I only had to continue battling the northerly briefly before turning to have it at my back. After a late lunch at my most-frequented country store, I ambled up Darky’s Spur as shadows lengthened. A single motorbike passed me before I hit the seal, crossed the highway, found the gravel again for some lovely ridge riding before the plunge back to sea level and my car. Gracious hospitality at the first farmhouse had many bike and travel stories shared; they thought I was nuts, but it’s all relative – they’d also seen people biking the Canning Stock Route, that sounds far more nuts to me.