Category Archives: bikepacking

bikepacking, bikes, NZ

Herbertville to Castlepoint to Riversdale

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Andrew and I have long discussed his dream of linking two coastal cities with a bikepacking route that stays close to the east coast. I was excited to be invited along for a weekend’s ride to explore part of his route for the first time. All new country to me, there ended up being eight of us in the group. With accommodation and main meals (I’m counting breakfasts along with dinners, as they were large) sorted, the bike was lightly loaded for the short route.

After the first of those large breakfasts, we left the most-hospitable Herbertville Inn in good time on Saturday morning. The first few flat kilometres of road south along the coast I realised I had seen before while visiting the area with my parents a few years before.

Didn’t look like this then. Cape Turnagain – a useful landmark for seeing how far we’d gone later in the ride.

Into Akitio Station and a nice little warm-up climb to start to put that breakfast to good use.

We quickly began to see the extensive pine plantations Andrew had mentioned – one reason, I assume, the road through the farm was so substantial and in good condition.

The last of the clear skies for the weekend.

The forecast was for southeasterlies off the sea, which would at some stage bring some rain. It held off pretty well.

Most of the way up the largest climb of the weekend, just a touch on four hundred metres above the ocean.

Waiting for the others at the summit (I did have twenty-odd years on them, and was carrying much less too), I found this venerable old grader to sit and pose for too many photos.

Twas a lovely climb up through these pines.

Cooling down waiting for a while, I dropped off the top before finding some more trees to shelter behind and wait for us to regroup.

Further along, this ridge opened up for us before the drop back to sea level.

Heading out the front entrance of our first station.

A brief section into and then up out of Akitio took me back to about the only TTW training ride I managed before popping my shoulder. A good section of riding gravel with Gerard ensued as we headed up the Owahanga valley a bit, before crossing the river and heading downstream for Owahanga Station.

All the shelter around the visitor sign-in hut seemed to be asking to be used for a lunch break. We obliged.

Bit of a grovel on full stomachs.

Castlepoint and Castle Rock in the distance, but of more immediate interest to me was the lighter coloured hill in front.

Down to the coast we dove again before a nice section next to the ocean.

Another slight rise took me to what was a divergence in the GPS track and the farm road. When Andrew asked me to plot the route through the farms, I didn’t have a lot of detail to go on. Here I used the only track that connected on the topo map, but on the ground the road we were happily following stayed inland and descended. For some reason, no one else was keen to head up to check out the view from the hill I’d spied previously.

In such good conditions, I was confident I’d be ok off solo – I was hardly going to fall into the sea. The track quickly disappeared into tussocks, across fences and then into a big slump. The coastal views were certainly better than staying on the inland, low road.

Happily I shouldered my bike and negotiated my way across the big slip and then up the paddock until something resembling a farm track reappeared. More pushing and then some actual riding and I was nearing the top.

Looking out on all the clouds, I was unsure as to how we’d managed to stay dry all day.

From the summit I could easily see the track down, partway down it had been recently bulldozed – I flew down to the river and was surprised to go screaming past the others as they approached the bridge on the low road. Out of the farm, gravel around the coast took us past some curious little baches nestled in pines. Certainly well shaded. The slightest of hills and I was in Castlepoint by three, soon joined by the others as we settled into roomy accommodation.

Having only ridden seventy kilometres, albeit on some engaging new territory with 1600 m of climbing, over seven hours – I still had energy left. Energy that I was keen to spend running around somewhere I’d not been before. In a small area there was a beach to run down, a lighthouse and headland to check out and a big coastal rock to scramble up. That was a good little run, I even managed to pull up ok having run in my biking shoes.

Crayfishing boats resting for the night.

That was a fun scramble; at least the rock was super grippy.

Checking out tomorrow’s riding.

Cape Turnagain looking a bit further off now.

With cooler, stronger winds and more rain forecast, tired legs and a long drive home – Sunday’s plan reverted to the original: heading to Riversdale, not quite fifty kilometres away through Castlepoint Station and along backroads. The rain mostly held off, the wind didn’t slow us too much and we had plenty more time riding next to the Pacific. The hills were even smaller than the previous day. Only coming off the largest one did I have to don my raincoat.

Through Castlepoint Station.

Heading out from Otahome.

Oh, Castle Rock again.

Plenty of time to wait here out of the rain, not much to do apart from pick up litter.

It cleared a bit?

Still checking out the Whareama sights.

Into Riversdale by half-eleven, it had a been a nice leisurely morning along the coast. I spent much of it by myself, but with a short day and a lightly loaded bike I enjoyed pushing the legs around a bit harder than I usually do. Andrew, a far better organiser of such rides than I, had even arranged for hot showers at the Surf Club – spoilt! That was probably prudent, considering we’d have four hours or so in the van together.

With a bit of time to spare, getting an ice cream and heading to the beach seemed just the ticket – never mind the rain.

Loaded up for the trek back to Napier.

What a great weekend exploring new places with excellent company and plenty of fascinating sights and stories. Thanks for inviting me along Andrew, I eagerly await the completed route…

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Five Beaches

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With vague notions of meeting others for some long-weekend bikepacking not eventuating, when Gill posted about riding Five Beaches I was keen – it promised to be a leisurely ride and I didn’t have to drive far. Based on the first hundred kilometres of the inaugural Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour, it had somehow made it into last year’s Bikepacking Aotearoa – to my delight. Having not ridden the whole loop in one trip, it seemed a good use of a couple of days.

Mild autumn weather greeted us as I met Gill and Bernard in Waipukurau. Bikes assembled and cars stashed, we were off along very familiar roads. The backroads were typically quiet and I very much enjoyed seeing the area in a different season – still looking generally very dry, there was at least some colour remaining in the trees. With only sixty kilometres on the plan for the day, it was nice to take our time – plenty of food stops and general rests. Riding with Bernard a bit it was most gratifying to see his face light up with the delight of ever changing rural views – much how I felt the first time riding through here.

Old Hill Road ridge riding always a favourite.

In Porangahau before half-two, the day’s riding was pretty much done! Plenty of time for an ice cream and chat with Orlando at Flotsam and Jetsam – slowly possibilities for this year’s HBAT are interesting me. Bernard was keen to see the world’s longest place name, so we duly obliged with a short detour before heading for the campground at the beach.

Camp made, there was so much time to spare. Into the westerly, we returned to town for dinner at the pub. Outside the diary we found two more bikepackers (also from Wellington) with fish and chips. Turned out we’d spied them removing bikes from their van as we started off; more delight to learn that they were also following the Five Beaches route and thoroughly enjoying it. We ditched the pub idea and went for burgers and chips – tasty.

Barely dark returning to camp, after showering and a cup of tea I was unsure what to do with all the extra time. Nine o’clock wasn’t too early to snuggle into my tent for a good night’s sleep? I hope not, as that’s what I did – on a very mild night, despite the clear skies. With good company it had been a fantastic relaxing day, after finally breaking nineteen minutes at parkrun with some effort.

An even more glorious day dawned for us Sunday, a bit of breeze overnight keeping our little tent collection pretty dry. Not having two days to spare to ride the remaining hundred-plus kilometres, I bid farewell to the Wellington crew and set off for the rest of the beaches and Waipukurau – a gentle breeze behind me.

The hills seemed smaller than previously, the wind must have been stronger than I thought. A strange amount of traffic passed me on Blackhead Rd, but that hardly slowed me in reaching the Blackhead to Pourerere beach section just before low tide. With few people around and that wind, it was far easier on the hard packed sand than my previous visit. A beautiful morning to soak in the sun and scenery.

With so much space, I got to practice snapping photos while riding in the opposite direction.

First of the two hills of note dealt with, Clareinch Rd is always a delight. Finally I made the short detour to see a sixth beach – Mangakura. With far fewer houses, it was for many years a private beach on a farm – but over time a small number of sections were divided amongst the family and some then sold on. I learnt all this from a friendly family that farm back on Ugly Hill Rd (which forms part of the start of the route) and they were happy to share some history, and top up my water bottle.

Just up the road was the fifth of the five beaches, Kairakau; it was easy to pop down there and see it again. Not so easy turning back into the wind. Up the other hill of note for the day, the wind didn’t make the drop down to the Tukituki that fast – but the Patangata Tavern appeared for lunch sooner than I was expecting.

With the last of the rural scenes still showing autumn colours, I was back in Waipawa and soon Waipukurau having had a thoroughly enjoyable day and a bit on the wee Five Beaches route. It’s like someone knew the type of riding I like.


bikepacking, bikes, event, NZ

TTW21-9: Lawrence to Slope Point

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Another night of paid accommodation, another night of poor sleep – far too hot in an actual room! With the Night and Day opening at six, we were there then fuelling up for the day ahead. Straight into the biggest hill of the day, the actually-named Breakneck Road (as opposed to the colloquial one on the hill I live) and I was feeling flat – nowhere near Olly and Matt ahead. But a bit of remote encouragement and the sunrise perked me up no end, even if I didn’t climb much faster – it became enjoyable (as far as such climbs can be straight after early breakfast).

At times we rode together, actually most of the way to Clinton we were there or thereabouts.

Another stunning day to finish this thing off (the third day being the only one with any real cloud cover, moisture and chill in the air) – we could not have asked for better weather. The Southland rural scenes unfolded before us, but as each large hill approaching became the highest point left, it felt like a bit of a procession to the finish.

Not a fast procession, mind you – after the final shop stop in Clinton, I didn’t have the legs to keep up with the others and I really didn’t mind. I was more than happy in my own little world, singing away to whatever was playing (no need to conserve battery at this point!), contemplating the previous 1300-odd kilometres and all the challenges overcome.

Approaching Mokoreta, time to eat the large lunch and put it to more use than bike-ballast.

A nice section of gravel through the Waikawa Valley, but – what’s this? A headwind?! Tellingly, the weather had been so good that approaching the south coast of the island was the only time I remember having to fight against the wind while riding. We’d got off very lightly with the weather indeed.

Rounding towards Curio Bay (the ocean!), the finish was a little further than I remembered – and there were still hills to go, of course.

One last 100 m climb and there it was, a roll down the road and then across a paddock to the finish! Very pleased with that, and to finish in the daylight with riding buddies for much of the previous six days, Olly and Matt, there too; that their partners had brought quite a lot of food had nothing to do with it…

Shorts looking a little looser than a week before.

Finishing very much mid-pack of the thirty-seven starters, I’m still not sure I can comprehend just what meeting and overcoming such a challenging course – amongst everything else going on – quite means. It may only become apparent when other big challenges come up and I can draw on the knowledge and experience what finishing the inaugural Tour Te Waipounamu has done for me

I did know I was hungry, my lower legs and ankles were very tight (twas five days until I could walk pain free) and my plans for a pick-up had fallen through – so a ride back to an Airbnb and helping to see to the huge amount of food there was just what I needed! Too tired and sore to get out of the house, I had to make do with watching the dots of those finishing that evening.

Entree?

Thanks again to Brian and the landowners for generously giving the opportunity to attempt such a tough route and see so many stunning parts of our little country – much appreciated and savoured.

bikepacking, bikes, event, NZ

TTW21-8: Mt Ida Water Race to Lawrence

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Save a brief flurry of throwing rocks at a bold and inquisitive possum, it was a good night’s sleep in the copse. That is not to say we were quick to get going for the half-hour gentle downhill to Oturehua – where we found Matt decamping right next to the store. Rumour had it that the shopkeeper would open early for us at eight o’clock, so we had time to sort a few things out. To our surprise, the store opened shortly after at seven-thirty – we promptly bought a lot of food for breakfast and the day ahead.

I was particularly pleased with this.

Fibre coming in 2121.

Well supplied, the flat section of rail trail and deserted gravel roads up the Ida Valley were easy miles and much appreciated. To my surprise, there was an Open sign outside the old Poolburn pub – couldn’t not investigate that, even if it was only little more than an hour since Oturehua (no more resupply for 120 km). Nine-thirty didn’t seem to be early to having an ice cream, amongst other things, with the two guys that had recently bought the premises on a bit of a whim. Not quite with a liquor licence yet, it was great to see the place open. Some avid dot-watchers and trail angels also tracked me down, so that was worth stopping a little longer for before heading up to Poolburn Reservoir.

Olly and Matt on the last stretch of flat road for the day.

The seven hundred metre climb on a typically sweltering, still Central Otago summer’s day was much as it has been before – with one notable exception, the traffic! Filming just having started on a new Lord of the Rings TV series we were constantly passed in both directions by a seemingly never-ending contingent of cast and crew vehicles. So many hired Toyotas, first time I’ve been pleased to see a Ford Ranger. Despite the numbers, I found the traffic courteous and the dust wasn’t too bad.

Finally at the reservoir, a chance for shirt soaking.

Through the little gorge after the dam, we left the filming behind us and I was excited to continue heading south to some terrain I’d not seen before.

It was vast, but at least tracked so there was no pushing required.

The high point for the day was hit around two o’clock, but this wasn’t too much comfort knowing Lake Onslow was still to come. Past Serpentine Diggings we first found a saturated bog before eventually another stream – great for a cool off and topping up bottles. Joining a section of the GSB21 course, I was thankful for this weather instead of toiling into the freezing southerly of three weeks before.

The road down to Lake Onslow and then stretching out behind up more hills;
we’d end up riding a fair bit of that ridge right to left.

Unfortunately, we ended up taking that road up and down to the lake – instead of the flat one around the lake edge.

I pushed a fair bit of the steeper sections of the climb beyond the lake, still fascinated by the light play on the folds of the hills.
Nice to see it in more light this time.

We left the road for more private farmland, hoping for some downhill – but got a bit more climbing along said ridge for eight kilometres or so.

We did wonder if we’d have to ride every track in this photo, but no – we were spared that fate.
The following day’s terrain stretching into the distance.

A screaming downhill through the farm before a lumpy section for an hour or so on public and then private roads. While excellent to see more new places, I must have been getting tired and too focussed on getting it done to remember much of it.

The long downhills were enjoyable!

Across the Clutha to Beaumont, where the pub and dinner waited. Nice evening for a ride, again!

Matt and Olly rolling down to food.

A large steak, eggs, onion rings and copious amounts of fries were devoured before the easy riverside trail twenty kilometres to a motel in Lawrence – half in the dark, but we made it in time before the staff had all called it a night. Another big day, it wasn’t quite as easy as hoped (after the previous two) being in the scorching sun all day. By this stage, the end of an incredible week was drawing near and I was just happy to keep things ticking over, taking a bit of extra care of both my body (managing the tight ankles while walking, less of that this day, and riding) and my front wheel (still missing only one spoke). Only a hundred and fifty kilometres to go!