With Mum and Dad having come to stay for a ten days or so mid-winter, it was decided that we should go away for a few days together. Often I’d driven the highway south of home and looked east towards the coast and wondered at the long line of big hills and what might be there. This was as good a reason as any to choose north-eastern Manawatu for a quiet few days in the countryside. A house was duly booked on a big sheep farm.
Taking a couple of days off work, my birthday got off to a wonderful start – I even had presents to unwrap, most unusual. A leisurely morning of sorting bikes, strolling in the sun and packing over – we were off south on rural roads I’d not been on before. Lovely countryside, many hills and turns – we arrived at Spring Creek, just past Wimbledon (which seems to be pretty much a pub and little else).
We had this lovely old, spacious farmhouse for a few days.
The house was great to poke around and find all sorts of old things – just the general day-to-day items were interesting enough.
Birthday dinner was down the road at the Wimbledon pub – the seafood basket is huge and delicious. So big, that I found out two days later that a half serving satisfies even my hunger. I’ve long wanted to bikepack along Route 52 (a road that lost its state highway designation) – I may have to make that a priority just so I can have the seafood basket again.
1886 counts for a pretty old pub in NZ.
We were enjoying learning of the pioneering history of the area, how it was cleared of native forest (unfortunate as the hills are so steep, erosion and slips are now quite a problem), supplied from the coast (there was no road to Dannevirke, or anywhere for that matter). Our hosts, Shaun and Sue, were fifth generation farmers – so there were plenty of stories to hear.
With enough bikes for the three of us, we were keen to go for a ride to the coast. With only a couple of small hills and a stunning day on Friday, the thirteen kilometres was achievable for Mum & Dad – who hadn’t done a lot of riding recently.
I had plenty of time to stop for photos, admire the scenery.
Heading for Herbertville – we turned right at the foot of those hills.
I carried on a bit past Herbertville, just because – gravel!
Looking back towards the wonderfully named Cape Turnagain – where Captain Cook decided he’d gone far enough south, and turned back north.
South towards Castle Point – another place I’m yet to make it to.
Back to the house for a late lunch, we were all well pleased with our rides. Sue and Shaun had said we could drive to the top and back of the farm, passing some old buildings on the way. The Corolla somehow made its way up the steep hill and we found a old woolshed and some ruined houses.
Circling the woolshed trying to find a way in.
Mum made it in.
Said disused woolshed.
Carrying on up the hill – a bit of fun for the little car.
South over Manawatu.
Back north over the farm which reaches across the valley to the hills in the middle distance.
We went hunting for old farm houses – instead Dad got dwarfed by old pine trees.
The living room could do with a bit of a touch up.
I was determined to ride around the farm, so dragged the mountain-bike out Saturday morning and was rather chilled riding back up the same steep road we’d driven up the previous afternoon. Crossing a muddy ford opposite the abandoned woolshed, I finally discovered the elusive tumble-down house and laden lemon tree we’d been looking for yesterday.
Most of the remaining structure seemed to be supported by ivy.
Ivy did at least frame the windows nicely.
This may be a part of why we initially struggled to find the ruined house – yes, there is a house in there. Somewhere.
I ground my way to the top, huzzah for single chainrings up steep hills, and was rewarded with clearer views over eastern Manawatu.
The Ruahines in the distance.
I had a blast following rugged farm tracks along the ridge line before a steep, steep plummet back to the house.
The afternoon’s outing was to head back to the beach for a walk to Cape Turnagain, or thereabouts. We drove there this time. Wide, flat and with the cape rising out of the sea it was a very nice walk in the afternoon sun. Two hardy surfers followed and passed us, before heading into the Pacific. There were a few others out on quad bikes, but the crashing of the waves easily drowned out any potentially annoying motors.
We found dozens of seals enjoying the sun at the cape, so turned around and returned with the wind at our backs.
The tiki-touring continued – we drove past where I’d ridden south the day before to see how far the road went. Not much further was the answer. Back to the pub that night for dinner – Dad managed to find somewhere to watch the Bledisloe Cup test. Mum and I had one of our occasional close-fought Scrabble battles, I was particularly average.
I was determined to find some gravel roads and thought I’d planned a good loop around Birch Rd. Dad joined me on the Route 52 section getting up a couple of decent hills. Turning off the tarseal, it got much steeper and I bade farewell to Dad. As expected, it was all very hilly. The land use alternated between sheep pasture and pine forest; forestry dominated. Every section of pasture gave a different view. At times I could look right back across the farm and spy the route I’d ridden around the farm previously.
There was clearly some logging operations going on somewhere up the road. The gravel varied from nice smooth, old road to big chunky gravel that had recently been laid. Areas of perpetual winter shade were quite damp and the surface up the last big climb was hard going – almost muddy gravel that hadn’t packed down. I was keen to get to Weber, mainly just to explore more back roads and see what was in the village. But aware that that would be cutting short even more the time spent with Mum & Dad, I opted for the short loop and hurtled down the hill to Route 52.
I was surprised not to lose even half the altitude that would take me back to the house. The short section of Route 52 that remained really must be steep. Certainly, it was. Mum was also out riding when I returned. The rest of our wonderful break away from it all was spent lunching, packing and loading bikes. What a great stay – so much to do in a place that seems to have little of the trappings one is used to.
With plenty of time up our sleeves, we could stop and read off the longest place name in the world. Yes, it’s quite easily pronounceable – it’s not Welsh after all.
The even-more scenic (roundabout) route was taken as we didn’t have to be at friends of Mum & Dad’s until five-thirty for a very informative walk around their vineyard, sampling of their wine and a fantastic “simple” dinner. A late return home after a very relaxing weekend.
Bike tree!
Follow that ribbon.
Surely I’m somewhere further up the hill treating the roots a bit more circumspectly.
Back out in the open, it was fresh on the skin and crunchy under tyre.
There may be a lookout over Green Lake just before the trail. I also may have been having a sufficiently good time.
1ºC is still shorts weather.
Roger’s bike was waiting with Marlena.
Looking south, the hill has a few cabbage trees dotted on the exposed slopes.
Pausing for a breather across one of the valleys seemingly cut in the hill.
Great clefts cut in the landscape.
Lovely folds to appreciate in the landscape. Looking out towards Napier in the weakening light.
Making a sheep-line out of the valley as our approach was noted.
Down that slope, deep into that gully.
Yip, down there.
Quite bumpy in the middle.
Te Mata Peak looking a little shorter, and quite different from this perspective, at the left of shot.
Looking south up the Tukituki River.
Leaving the Hill behind, over Westshore Bridge I followed my commute route for ten or so kilometres.
What’s this? Offshore power boat racing. That’s different. Not to mention loud, fast and repetitive.
I was heading for the coast in the far distance, just right of centre in this shot.
The crossing of the Esk is at the start of Waipunga Rd, before the hills start. It’s looking a bit lower than a couple of weeks previous, when we had 200 mm of rain in less than forty-eight hours at work (process water at work is taken from the Esk).
In the mid-afternoon sun (warming enough to only need arm warmers in addition to shirt), the climbing began – as did the views of rolling green hills and distant ranges.
The largest part of the climb ascends this ridge from right to left, steadily gaining about three hundred metres. It’s very nice.
I really enjoyed the gradual climb – stopping often to snap photos to share.
Eventually, the road starts to roll up and down a bit more – gradually climbing overall.
I paused at the end of Waipunga Rd to look north – this was as far north as my route would go, and also the highest altitude. I had five hundred metres to lose in the twenty kilometres to the coast.
I turned right onto Kaiwaka Rd – more lush gravel! I headed for the highway to cross it.
The sun sunk further, setting nicely on this rather out of place patch of toetoe.
More hills – thankfully I didn’t have to ride them all. 
I kept a watchful eye on my shadow as I lost altitude quickly.
It seems one can’t really escape work – the pulpmill steaming away on the right; Napier easily visible stretching left across the water, the hills south of Havelock North in the distance. 
I said my goodbyes to cell coverage with one big downhill, a few hairpins and cool rushing air as I blasted down to Waipataki and the sea.
First I had to work out how to cross the stream.
Big stepping stones helped, I didn’t fall in; just.
It quickly became apparent that it was to be another stunning autumn day.
Pedaling up the driveway, the day’s only sizable hill rose in front of me.
The highway gets rather close to the coast and the puffing pulpmill comes back into view.
And just like that I was nearly home, back on my commute route.