With a mere hundred kilometres to knock off, I did it tough and slow on my final morning on the course. Turns out the playground I slept in, well attempted to sleep in, for four hours was near an intersection used by many trucks the night through. In Kurow, who’d have thunk it? That and the strange bivy-bag claustrophobia was enough to have me up and rolling before half-five.
Up the Hakataramea Valley was a long gentle climb; I pootled on knowing I’d get it done, but with no real energy left after the previous days of effort. Getting lost and wasting energy in those trees may have slowed me more than I thought. At that hour, the roads were at least quiet.
Dawn wasn’t too bad either.
I paused for water and a snack at Cattle Creek, the hall looking rather disused and the school long since closed and abandoned. But here the gravel started and that was cause for celebration, muted though it was.
It really was a lovely morning, and the wind-gods must have felt sorry for me – there was little to contend with. The road curves left and climbs to the pass on the left of Mt Dalgety.
Nearing the pass, naturally the gradient kicked – but it had been very mellow up until that point.
It really was a nice day, Mt Cook and the Southern Alps hove into view.
Finally, I reached the pass. Rather unhurried and tired, somehow sixty kilometres and 800 metres of climbing had taken five and a half hours! Never mind, it would be all downhill from here – surely.
Yes, a long downhill!
Reaching Haldon Rd, there was only thirty kilometres to go and Lake Tekapo lay off in the distance. I could see it down there! But gradients can be deceptive and both Haldon Rd and the highway busy with traffic (each sharing the remaining distance near-equally) had a nagging gentle climb in it. I pushed on knowing that I was lucky to be escaping the headwind that gave this section notoriety amongst the other riders.
With the confidence of it being a question of when, not if, I’d finish this ride kept me going at a steady, albeit slow, pace. Sure enough, I rolled back to the Church of the Good Shepherd six days and change after having left. Unusually, and delightfully, for these events, there was a small welcoming party. I’ve seen it written that I looked pretty fresh, but I know and the photo below suggests that is far from the truth. That was certainly a tough week on the bike, but through some amazing parts of the country and thoroughly worth the effort. About half I’d seen before, but I was more than happy to see those parts again to faciliate exploring new places.

Big thanks and much kudos to Dave for organising it all and planning such a great route. I can see why people keep returning to this gem of a ride (despite or because of the conditions?); knowing that the route varies each time I can see I’ll be well tempted to come back for the next iteration(s). Great to meet so many and ride with a few for extended periods, special mention for Steve and Jake as we battled through that wind together. Thanks also to my parents for picking me up, putting up with me for a weekend of much rest and eating, and then dropping me back in Christchurch; also to John for the Christchurch base and airport transfers.
Last word must be about the wind. For three years, my yardstick of wind strength when it gets a little tough has been “well, it’s not as bad as coming into Bluff on the Tour Aotearoa when I was reduced to pushing my bike alongside a flat highway into 100+ km/hr gusts for eight kilometres in eighty minutes”. No more. Now I know: if I haven’t been blown off my bike for four days in a row, it’s not really that windy; or if I am not holding onto my bike as it does its best impression of a kite being blown away with each gust – it’s also not really that windy.
The gravel road in, and the track up to the diggings on the left, Mt Kyeburn on the far right.
Looking back only a little way up, the Rock and Pillar Range in the distance.
I contemplated the ride up here, knowing what the ski was like.
Rather a cute little hut; waiting, I tidied the hut a little, soaked in the sun and view and took photos of my bike posing.
This is fairly representative of much of the remaining trail up – a bit different with no snow!
West over Oteake Conservation Park – plenty more tracks to explore.
Looking over the Maniototo again, the track I’d come up and Buster Diggings on the right.
Climbing, climbing…
Almost there, the track I would follow down can just be seen curling away to the left at the bottom of the scree.
The long since dug diggings a more obvious scar on the tussock slopes from up here.
Bike needed another breather.
Looking over to St Mary’s Range and time to descend!
The track dropping away from me to cross the Kyeburn and meet Dansey’s Pass Road.
Glimpses of the Pacific could just be made out.
Finally down to the Kyeburn.
This crossing I couldn’t keep my feet from being anything but soaked. So why not just stand in the rushing water for a while admiring things?
After surprising the family for Christmas last year, I skived off for a few days of Central Otago bikepacking. It was brilliant and I’m looking forward to revisiting some of my route, and more, shortly.
Adele joined me for a memorable, fairly big, hilly and hot day on the Old Dunstan Trail.
Local bikepacking trips were fairly scarce, this one south of Havelock North sticks in the mind for the insane mud.
Further south, the Number 8 Wired route was a blinder. One easy day of gravel roads and hills.
And one tough day getting to the coast and back – significant hike-a-bike, rugged trails and battling into a warm NWer all the way home.
The hills west of Gisborne did whet the appetite with some stunning rural scenery and riding.
Just before reaching Opotiki and ending that painful (favouring my left knee led problems in my other foot and barely being able to walk for two weeks – I got better) ride, I met some other bikepackers that took me back to Rotorua and snapped this last photo of my trusty Surly.
I thoroughly enjoyed the continuing Geyserland Gravel Grind series of bikepacking events based out of Rotorua again this year – I lined up for five in total. For the Mini-, Pete leant me his spare bike.
I liked it so much, I promptly test-rode and ordered the latest model. Here it is, unusually, unloaded – it’s certainly lighter than I was used to for bikepacking. I’m looking forward to just as many good trips and memories.
All ready for a few days away; having all one’s luggage stolen has an advantage in getting newer, improved gear.
Finally I made it down south for one of Adele’s birthday trips. A thoroughly enjoyable week of skiing, family, friends and beautiful Otago scenery. I finally got ski-touring with a super-fun day up and down Mt Kyeburn.
The first big climb in Montana.
Avoiding wildfires was a regular consideration.
The fire reroute turned out golden – with another long downhill.

We made it above the cloud, I climbed a mountain! That excitement was only tempered by the descent hammering my quads and being reduced to a hobble for the following week.
The Classic Geyserland Gravel Grind was a nostalgic trip back to the Bay of Plenty and many places I went while growing up nearby and on my first bike tours.
I remembered to look back and take a photo of typical rolling Waikato dairy country.
Comfortable? Not really. Drugged? Certainly.
Something not quite right here.
That’s better.