Category Archives: GPS

bikepacking, bikes, friends, GPS, NZ

ACAL Day Two – Lindis River campsite to St Bathans

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Just the slightest spits fell overnight, we rose to a gloomy morning with the sandflies rampaging again. Immediately crossing the Lindis, it wasn’t one of those where you can get away with dry feet – leaving us with cold feet for much of the day.

Leaving the headwaters behind, no sight of Melina Ridge this morning.

First climb over to Smith Creek to try and warm us up.

Into another one.

Ninety minutes of pottering past more yards, another private hut and we were soon grovelling up the highway to Lindis Pass. Twasn’t even a mile to roll down before finding the shortcut that would save us some altitude loss and regain to take us to the pylon service road which would be our next hour or so.

Heading south, we got some patches of sun.

Twas lumpy, to say the least.

Occasionally the sky corresponded with the last forecast we’d seen.

Another conservation area demanded more food – unsure if it was second-breakfast or first-lunch, but there was a good bottle-filling stream.

We joined what was supposedly a road, Goodger (great name), but was not really much different to the tracks we’d been travelling on over the hills – win!

Sometimes we spied, and tried to pick out, the Lauder part of the Dunstan Range that we were heading for. More obvious was the Chain Hills that were right beside us, and originally part of our route – as the day wore on we were all pleased we hadn’t gone up there too. Yet another great return option, probably on a big day ride – that ridge riding looks fantastic, but exhausting. Instead we continued across farmland, and up and over small ridges into the next valley.

At the foot of the next big push, we deliberated over the route. The more-direct one Andy had plotted had No Public Access signs posted. There was no one out there so we could probably take it with no issues, but as was pointed out – this wasn’t the way to go and much work had been done arranging the public access there was. We turned around and headed upstream towards the Chain Hills. Past more yards and another private hut, the track was all grass and steepened – it was slow and tedious going.

Reaching the point where we’d sidle around the foot of the Chain Hills, we did at least find signs that further clarified some of the many more possibilities for exploring out here.

The sidling wasn’t much better, but nothing compared to the next section.

Dropping to and pausing to refuel as Cluden Stream, the next push uphill was the toughest of the route. Steeper, it was far more overgrown with long grass – but the wheels still turned. To our utter surprise, the climb then had a bog running down it. Surely bogs are on flat land where water can settle – not cascading down a mountain side? Feet soaked again, there was still hope we’d get into some sunshine by late afternoon.

Eventually the track dried out, the gradient lessened and there were no more switchbacks. Out on the ridge we had views over to the Alps, where we’d come from that day, Dunstan Pass and the Chain Hills, and St Bathans Range looming behind.

That’s better.

A bit of sun for the day. Andy’s photo.

St Bathans Range in the background, in the middle Dunstan Pass on the left and further right one of the Chain Hills tracks.

Much the same, but now the rocky tors had begun to appear as we gained hundreds of metres gradually along the tops.

We’d come from somewhere just in front of that small patch of snow.

Many tussocks; looking out to the Alps around Hawea.

Quickly, the low cloud that we had seen sitting over Central Otago blew through on the southerly that had been cooling us much of the day.

Still we kept climbing to more and more rocks.

Now getting above the level of the Chain Hills, we were making progress.

Mistakenly waiting in the lee of a big rock thinking that was the top. Sigh…

Cold enough for jackets and thick gloves. At least we’d made the top; although whizzing down would be even colder. Andy’s photo.

Over the Manuherikia valley in Central Otago – I’d ridden through there the week before.

Time to start dropping 1200 metres in quick time; hands cold from stopping too much to goggle at the view and take pictures.

The usual Spot the Track – fun and fast descent.

Only the week before I’d ridden Thomsons Gorge and wondered about exploring the hills extending either side of the pass and now here I was looking at it from those very hills. Huzzah for having the time and flexibility to say yes to such riding opportunities that just come along – more of this, please!

A snippet of the big descent into and through Lauder Station – fun and fast farm track riding.

Having far too much fun, I soon resumed my gatekeeper role – which gave the opportunity to regroup. A long day, some said as tough as a TTW day – I’m unconvinced, I was given the extra job when stopped next to call ahead to the Vulcan in St Bathans to see if they had rooms and would keep the kitchen open. That was easy enough, the manager was most agreeable, there were two spare bunk rooms and they’d rustle up some food for us – it’s improved so much from my memory of it, now that the management has changed. That just left a big hillside to get off and half an hour of gradual climb to the village.

Made it in plenty of time where we were well looked after – even if some of us almost fell asleep eating the large meals!

For the second day in a row, I was absolutely blown away by the country we’d been able to travel through and take in. Perhaps more astounding was all the other opportunities apparent for future adventures. Two days in and already I couldn’t say which was my favourite.

bikepacking, bikes, friends, GPS, NZ

ACAL Day One – Kurow to Lindis River campsite

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So excited by the chance to go on Andy’s Conservation Area Loop (what I’m calling it anyway) was I, that I cut short New Year’s riding to return home and prepare for it. Aiming to string together a number of parks and their tops using farm tracks to that have only relatively recently become accessible sounded a grand idea to me – this plan had been fermenting in Andy’s mind for a while. What’s more, the forecast steadily improved in the week before. We had five days to ride the 300+ kilometre route; knowing little of the country, except that it would be very hilly, four days seemed likely for a good touring, definitely not race, pace.

A big breakfast in a Kurow cabin and a civil seven-thirty start and we were away up the Alps2Ocean. I’d not ridden the longest cycle trail in the country in its entirety for many years, so was pleased to find that a lot of more of it has been taken off the Waitaki Valley highway. It was still early and warming well, we wondered if we’d gotten things completely wrong watching the pleasure boats on the hyrdo dams.

Across Lake Benmore from the dam remembering previous trips on that lumpy pylon access road.

Across the dam and there’s now a trail up there, instead of going through Otematata down at valley floor level.

Looking over Otematata Station to the Hawkduns brought back memories of stinking hot days climbing up there less than a year ago on the first Tour Te Waipounamu. Comparisons to and memories of our respective TTW races would be a regular topic, such was its significance in our bikepacking lives.

I was thrilled that this new section of A2O took us high above the lake to give views of parts I’d not seen before.

There was some steady climbing, but equally fun downhills, and the section to Sailors Cutting provided a good warm-up. It’s a popular trail and there were plenty of riders to greet as they rode the, preferred, opposite direction. I think it’s just as good as the more-hyped Lake Dunstan Trail – the views are less confined, and there’s no highway noise for starters.

Still surprised at just how green this normally barren area is looking this summer.

The standard big meal at Wrinkly Rams consumed, we were soon out into the afternoon for a hour of gradual highway climbing towards Lindis Pass. Holiday traffic wasn’t too bad, none of the big rigs I’m used too. We continued up the Ahuriri valley as the highway turned towards the pass.

Almost another hour up the wide valley, getting closer to the access easement.

Andy’s photo.

Stunner, hot afternoon.

We were advised to cross the Avon Burn as soon as possible and stick to the farm track, much easier going than the nearby poled route.

The track soon left the stream with some steep pinch climbs.

As we got into the hills, we constantly pondered just which track we would soon be ascending. Andy’s photo.

We found this sweet, old private hut just before the long push began.

Available to stay in for a small fee, it was a beaut. Around four o’clock, most of us were tempted to call it a day there. But we’d not even managed a hundred kilometres, and little climbing – it was well too early to waste such kind, calm conditions. There began two hours of mostly walking through six hundred metres of ascent. All on reasonable double-track, the pushing was easy enough – that is, wheels rolled and there was no carrying.

Looking up to the big switchback, that was almost halfway up the total climb.

The views changed constantly and they were staggering. Spotting all the similar tracks dozed across and up other hills was a favourite – I want to explore them all!

Back down Avon Burn, the hut near those yards.

I’d been a bit nervous about recent medical things, so forwent a comfortable tent for a bivy bag and a stove for dry, cold meals (the forecast was good) to save a bit of weight – this helped to keep my bike moving a little faster. Rachel and I both left backpacks behind, but both found adequate solutions to strapping our front packs to our back to lighten bikes further for prolonged pushes.

Looking south before switching back and crossing that face two pictures above.

Running out of words for a while.

I can see at least eight tracks there I want to explore!

Into Otago now and the start of the Lindis River, we’d be down there soon enough.

Waiting a bit, scoping out more tracks.

The trail changed for the last few kilometres to the summit, with a little dip around the corner to climb out of.

It was so unbelievably still at the top of the Melina Ridge track, I was more than happy to linger waiting for Andy and Rachel – soaking in the views all around and scheming further adventures now that my eyes helped me to grasp the possibilities that a friend had mentioned on my arrival to Otago.

Tough place for fenceposts.

Eventually we were able to draw ourselves away from the views and set off down.

Through the gate into our first conservation area, I was not stopping on the downhill that presented itself.

Screaming down through a five hundred metre drop in ten minutes of big switchbacks and plenty of bouncing around on my loaded, rigid bike was oh so much fun. So much fun that I have no photos. I’d apologise, but it was completely worth it! Much possibility to come back with a trail bike (not far off now, new one is in the country).

More waiting (eight minutes, which is not bad considering how much more media the others got) gave the chance to top up bottles at the creek and sit on a big rock in the sun looking down the valley.

Another climb from that stream did at least give a good view of the bottom part of the descent. One can see the Mt Melina track, that left the ridge track at its highpoint.

Now down in the Lindis valley floor and past the turn off to Mt Prospect (another riding possibility), nearing a twelve hour day, with the sublime Melina Ridge in there, seemed a reasonable time to look for a nice campsite before getting too close to the highway. We found a sheltered one on some river flats near a tributary that we would turn up the next day and set ourselves up for the night. What a fantastic day of brilliant weather, amazing new views, great company and excellent riding – the pushing wasn’t even that bad either.

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Thomsons Gorge to ride Lake Dunstan Trail finally

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Somehow involved in the planning for a group to ride the GSB21 route (mosty), it seemed rude not to make an appearance as I was in the area. An addition to the route was the new Lake Dunstan Trail – which I’d not managed to ride in the six months since it had opened – so that was the obvious part to tag along on. The Knobby Range shortly after was my favourite part of GSB21, I’d ride that too and then rush back to next venesection.

Rail trail to the end would have been too monotonous, so after a nice fifty kilometre warm-up in cool summer conditions, and a big first-lunch in Omakau, I struck north for Thomsons Gorge.

Out of Oturehua on the Otago Central Rail Trail.

Having remembered the wind and heat of previous rides through here, I was unsure how I’d do in my current lower-fitness state. Especially up the steep first pitch – I thought there would be some walking involved. There began a curious internal monologue as the climbing began – one voice telling me that I was ill, walked last time and would be walking soon; the other voice just getting me to pedal a little bit further. Before I knew it, the steep section was completed – on the bike (except for opening and closing some of the twenty-two gates).

Starting the climb, over the Manuherikia Valley to the Raggedy Range.

I love riding through this gorge for the challenge (usually in the form of crazy wind, and not insubstantial heat) and the views. This day was the most benign I’d ever had the conditions – not that hot, patchy sun, occasional cloud cover and not a breath of wind. It made a nice change from being blown off my bike, which is more usual.

For once I had the time and inclination to make the small detour and check out this wee old hut. A pleasant spot for second-lunch.

Thomsons Saddle.

Headwaters of Thomsons Creek, the stone hut just around the corner.

One day, hopefully soon, I’ll go up there. Now I’m in the area, there are many little side trips to be found and explored.

Knowing I’d be well early to the Cromwell rendezvous, I took the opportunity to check out some of the mining relics. All those times I’d ridden down that hill and I had no idea there was a sizeable mineshaft stretching under the road – I didn’t have to stoop that much as it went deeper into the hillside.

The restored Come In Time Battery.

Over the Lindis River.

An easy twenty-odd kilometres into Cromwell along the highway was not too unpleasant with traffic only of the holiday and multi-sport varieties, nothing heavy – makes a nice change from logging trucks. Hours early, I rode around the outskirts, popped out to Bannockburn and had first-dinner waiting for the group to arrive. Their arrival prompted many stories of the trail, and second-dinner.

A big breakfast done and it was a leisurely start after seven the next day. Cutting across to the road out to Bannockburn, soon over the Kawarau arm of Lake Dunstan and onto trail new to me. It’s an easy trail, and would be fast – but for its popularity. Even at that time of the morning, there were plenty of people out enjoying it. The engineering along the edge where the Cairnmuirs now suddenly drop into the hydroelectric lake is an incredible feat on an excellent trail that links Clyde and Cromwell without using the highway or the big, steep Hawksburn Road climb. The platforms bolted on to and cantilevered out from the cliff edge are most notable, but there are sizeable bridges too.

Heading to Cornish Point.

There’s the occasional climb, but nothing significant on a loaded bike.

Most memorable event of the trail was courtesy of a large merino ram. Thankfully we came across it while on a moderate downhill. Four of us got past it chased, but unscathed. Tom, however, stopped further up the trail to watch the happenings. The territorial ram noticed and trotted up the track. His bike between him and the ram, repeated charges and bunting were not completely avoided. If it wasn’t so comical, we may have been more concerned. With no bears, moose, snakes, and cougars I guess we have to make do with temperamental rams. Mirth contained enough, I eventually ventured back up the trail a bit to try and provide enough distraction for Tom to get on his bike. My help was not needed as he finally got away unscathed – physically at least, time will tell about mental scars. Unfortunately the front wheel and brake disc were not so lucky, requiring some attention at the next bike shop.

As well as the scenery, which was probably not helped by the gloomy day, I enjoyed having the time to read all the signs detailing history and engineering in the area.

Out at the Clyde Rowing Club, I was most surprised when one of runners we chatted to ended up being Steve, a guy I happened to ride most of the last day of my Tour Aotearoa with six years earlier! I always wondered what happened to him after he rode off into the crazy headwind that left me struggling for eighty minutes to move eight kilometres alongside a flat highway. Curiosity satisfied.

That was a fun ride, I look forward to doing it again in clearer weather and maybe off-season (if it has one). The day warmed as we rode the twelve or so shaded kilometres into Alexandra. I found a burst of energy and didn’t stop until the end – there having to wait quite some time before rolling into town for a large early lunch, and for Tom to get his wheel fixed. Somewhere along the way, others had had enough of hills and quit on the Knobby Range plan – opting for Clutha Gold and a ridiculously expensive jet boat ride instead. Ditching the best bit of the GSB course for a disjointed, low trail held no appeal, especially when it’d be even more of an effort to make my venesection appointment on time – I said my goodbyes and cruised the ninety kilometres back home on the rail trail.

Saying goodbyes.

Actually stopping to read the interesting displays at Lauder.

Nice to get out and stretch the legs for a couple of days, ride a new trail, enjoy the company of other riders and take a bit more time absorbing some of the history of the area.

bikepacking, bikes, friends, GPS, NZ

Wairoa, Ohuka loop with long awaited dead-ends

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Getting back to northern Hawke’s Bay for one last weekend of bikepacking seemed a fitting farewell to this region I’ve been fortunate to call home for six years. It also gave the opportunity to add a couple of long dead-end roads that I’ve long been curious about, but never quite got to explore, to an already hilly 175 km loop of previously seen roads. This time there was all weekend available, across two days there was a bit more slack in the plan for any interesting diversions. Also fittingly, the only person I could convince that this potentially-mad route was worth setting out on was Pete – who’s made the most appearances in my more ambitious rides around the central North Island (notably both HBATs, HBOP, his excellent Cape to Cape (half of my double North Island traverse), and his Megas).

Catching up while watching the clear lunar eclipse, our bikes were ready for the leisurely start the next morning – straight to the bakery. Out of town on quiet highway, we were soon on Cricklewood Road. A favourite of mine, it seems to be a bit more infamous with others who have struck it at the end of a long, hot day of hills. From the top, it’s easy to see the sea thirty-odd kilometres distant and 500 metres below and think it’s all downhill – it’s really not! This was my first time climbing it and in the cool of a spring morning, it was very pleasant – almost as good as the other direction. The views soon opened up and already I was enjoying being back here and picking out various ranges in the distance, even Cape Kidnappers, and recalling other rides.

Remarkably green for this time of year.

Snaking up the ridge.

Mid-morning now, the first climb done; following a snack we hit Putere Road and descended towards the Waiau.

Catches my eye every time I pass.

Instead of continuing all the way down to the river, we set off on the first dead-end. Getting to the end of Putere Road would provided two significant climbs and a descent before finally dropping to the river further upstream – before turning around and doing it all in reverse. What we’d find along the way would soon be revealed.

First, a well-kept country school – water, shade, bathrooms and a very tempting pool.

Partway up the first climb, Pukakaramea keeps an eye on Rotongaio.

Many of the hillsides had been logged since I’d last looked upon the area from afar – this really opened up the views.

Logging still ongoing – I’ve never seen a tidier skid site!

Grovelling back up to crest before the long drop to the river, we could just hear forestry machinery making even slower progress toward us. We paused in the shade to see what it was and let it pass.

Good thing too, that claw was big – it swung a bit closer than I would have liked as it turned off along the ridge.

Panekiri Range on the right, I enjoyed seeing it again – this time from yet another angle. Off towards Huiarau Range in the distance, out Whirinaki Forest Park way. The road drops towards that pasture centre-frame.

A long, winding, gentle, freewheeling descent ensued. I was briefly fascinated watching logging operations in progress. Six years working for a forest products company and this was the most I’d ever seen of such things.

Spot the log moving up the hill.

End of the road, with this mostly amusing, slightly threatening sign.

Turning for the long climb back up, I dunked my hat in a stream as it was getting hot – I’d repeat this twice more at culverts on this stretch alone. A steady climb, it was not too bad; the second one steeper, it required a rest or two in the shade. Only seventy kilometres in, we’d already managed a couple of thousand metres of climbing – this did not bode well as the mercury climbed.

Rotongaio again, before dropping to the shade and water of the school once more.

The steep and big drop down Stairway to Heaven soon had us over the Waiau and inspecting the domain and hall for future reference. Neither of us had taken the Ruapapa-Otoi Rd option to where it connects to Waireka Rd. We found it much steeper and less pleasant going – there was much walking as it was well hot now. It wouldn’t have taken too much persuasion to get me to carry on down Ruapapa Rd – but that’s far less interesting (i.e. less hilly). An exercise in putting one foot in front of the other…

More hills and a different aspect of Panekiri.

Some pleasant ridge riding before dropping again as we got close to the range and then turned east to edge away from it. More walking and finding streams to cool off, the shack we bivied in early-2020 appeared far sooner than I expected – this was a good sign, as it was starting to look to me that this would be a very long day. The sealed climb to Ohuka being about the same again as the biggest we’d already done, it was very much in my mind. Resting in the shade at shearers’ quarters, we were really getting through our food – at least there were plenty of places to get water. The deep gravel, hills and heat were still taking it out of us.

Lake Rd, the main thoroughfare in the area, is not much better, some horrendous corrugations – but they didn’t last long. At least the road up and over to Ohuka is sealed – but that’s because it is so very steep. Still we rested in the shade, craving salt we finished the big bag of chips I’d somehow managed to squeeze/squash/crush into my feed bag and started the early-evening walk. I think we both had music blaring from our phones to get up that hill – a sign extra motivation was needed.

Panekiri Bluff now into view.

Spot the winding road going up the other side – at least that could be left to the following morning and fresh legs.

At last, the long descent to the school and the hunt for the key. I was relieved to find it – a kitchen was most welcome, as was the sick-bay bed; I’d lugged a sleeping bag and mattress all day for nothing, oh well – better to have it and not need it…

Nice surrounds for a school.

Another cracker day dawned, we eventually departed the excellent overnight facilities before seven and went straight into the biggest climb of the day. This gravel was kinder, the morning still cool and with rested legs the hour to the top was most pleasant.

Easy Sunday morning by this stage.

Before long we’d dropped a few hundred metres to cross the Ruakituri River at Erepeti; I was surprised at just how much of a river it is – where was all this water coming from? Apparently the largest catchment in the Ureweras, who knew? Our next dead-end would take us up the valley twenty kilometres to see a bit of that.

Back down to where we crossed the Ruakituri.

This quickly became the highlight of the weekend – what a valley! Climbing through a reserve as the valley narrowed into a gorge, the outlook across the river was spectacular before the road dropped through farmland to the valley floor. With the river rushing (renowned trout fishing we were told) through, fine examples of layering on a lot of continental uplift were readily apparent. Plenty of cliff features to catch our attention. The gravel was kinder again – graders and new metal don’t make it up here often.

At the entrance to Papuni Station we found a few graves dating from the NZ Wars – a skirmish between the constabulary and Te Kooti, this being not far as the crow flies from where he landed after escaping from the Chathams. Papuni looked very prosperous, we stopped for a yarn with a few of the workers, maybe a manager – I don’t think they see many cyclists. It was great to hear a bit more about the area and some of the tracks around – pity I’m moving away, there are definitely more opportunities to be investigated.

Behind the houses, a nice climb up to the woolshed, a boulder field and a lot of horses before dropping to the river. The headwind while descending was noticeable, but one could not complain – soon we would turn with it at our backs.

The gravel stopped at the base of the hill in the background.

Resting at the road-end, what food still remaining was depleted further as we speculated where one could get to from there. A DOC map board was much neglected and unreadable, shame. Back up the hill we went, eventually pushed up the last of the hill as the wind swirled around the valley.

Back down the valley past the Papuni buildings.

Enjoying the ride out of the valley, the hills were far easier than Saturday’s and, once we’d reclaimed our seat packs stashed in some willows, we hit the seal for the fifty clicks back to town. A wee bit of climbing, and one big hill after joining the Tiniroto Rd it was for the most part heading down to the coast with a helpful wind. Warm though, an ice cream at the store in Frasertown was the first priority – thankfully I got there right on closing. From there, a short sprint back to Wairoa to finish a fine weekend, and indeed, some years of exploring Hawke’s Bay back roads and hills.

The second day easily being the reward for a tough Saturday – all worth it, upper Ruakituri Valley was a cracker and I wonder when I’ll be able to get back and explore some more. Might have to be sooner than I previously thought.