Category Archives: NZ

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Getting to Takaka

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To my surprise, my bike was assembled from its travel bag and I was ready to leave Nelson by half-eight Friday morning. I was well excited to be going on my first solo tour of more than a few days for over six years. A small bikepacking event over the weekend was drawing me finally to Golden Bay, and after that I was looking forward to a couple of weeks on the West Coast riding some of the long backcountry trails that the area is blessed with.

First, to Takaka; with a whole day, biking there was the logical choice – even with Takaka Hill in the way. Much easier than organising a bus anyway. Flat cycle trail took me out of town, skirting the estuary and past a large sawmill. I missed the reopening of the Mapua ferry by a day, so was left to find the quietest route west on the fly. The backroad to Motueka wasn’t that desolate, but it wasn’t a highway.

After a few spits of rain, the day cleared nicely.

Hitting Motueka for an early lunch, I made sure to fuel up for the 900 metre climb. I didn’t get far into it and found a complimentary/compulsory shuttle through a lot of roadworks, so that cut out a couple of hundred metres of climbing – which I was both pleased and disappointed by.

Almost at the top of the road, a short side trip for the view.

Yup, the hills certainly climb away from the coast very quickly.

Near the summit of the main road, I turned off north and continued to climb before eventually dropping to Canaan Downs. So many rocks everywhere in the paddocks, and a little native bush to ride through. It looked a sweet place to camp as the downs opened up, and I found a cheeky bit of singletrack to ride, confusing the sheep and avoiding orienteer scouts, before the Rameka Track started.

A very old track, as far as NZ European history goes, that’s been revitalised – it was great to work my way down to sea level. A loaded rigid bikepacking bike may not the best stead for it, but I was thrilled with the descent through the bush. Occasionally the views opened up, but I was having too much fun to stop much.

Before long I’d lost all the altitude and was rolling into my Airbnb on the outskirts of town; a top day getting to Takaka and moving the legs a little before the weekend’s challenge.

bikes, friends, hiking, MTB, NZ

Whirinaki weekend

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For the third time in a year, a most excellent stay at the Rec. Camp in Whirinaki Forest Park. This time, a more relaxed visit introducing friends to the superb example of native North Island podocarp forest – teeming with birdlife too. Bike trips have brought me here before, but this time I packed not only bike shoes (and a bike), but walking shoes, hiking boots and running shoes. Pleasingly, all were used.

Home for the weekend.

Unexpectedly cold when we arrived Friday night, fireplaces in the cabins sure helped on a brilliantly clear and starry night. It clouded overnight, so more mild waking Saturday; after an early breakfast I wandered down to check out the Whirinaki River just below camp. I was thrilled to hear a vocal pair of whio, and more so to see them. Also known as blue duck, these are a threatened species (far rarer than kiwi, for instance) that live in fast flowing rivers and streams.


How they manage to find and feed on small invertebrates in such quick water still amazes me.

The short loop on the Whirinaki mountain bike track was under the canopy of towering giants, and the downhill on a rough and ready, rutted track was the most fun I’ve had on a mountain bike in a long time. It was a nice change to let go and know that the bike would soak up all but the biggest hits – rather different to a loaded, fully-rigid bikepacking rig!

The rest of the weekend was spent on foot, walking to waterfalls, the ephemeral Arohaki Lagoon and running back, gazing in wonder up at the mind-blowingly numerous giants of the forest, listening to the birdlife and most of all learning more about it all. So good to take people knowledgeable about such things along – the enthusiasm was infectious, hopefully some of the knowledge was too.

Wheki-ponga may have been the word of the weekend.

Kahikatea line the lagoon on a misty Sunday morning.

Some marshmallows may have been harmed in the making of s’mores.

around home, family, MTB, NZ

North and south family visits

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With a big bikepacking trip cancelled, a pandemic did at least leave me with masses of annual leave and substantial flight credit. Internal travel restrictions eased, it was high-time to pop down and see family in Central Otago. For mid-winter, it wasn’t as cold as one would expect in Naseby and we managed plenty of time outside.

Flying into Dunedin, Naseby nestled over yonder in front of the Ida Range.

First up, a walk around Sutton Salt Lake – NZ’s only inland salt lake apparently. A pleasant little walk around the geographical curiosity.

The Rock and Pillars completely devoid of snow – glad I didn’t bother to bring my skis down.

Plenty of rocks to negotiate; smoke from a burn-off drifting lazily down the Taieri Valley.

For a change, I’d not travelled with a bike and hadn’t really planned on doing any riding. James had other ideas…
Forgoing a bike my size due to lack of front brakes, I tried to remember how to mountain-bike on a bike two sizes too large and in shoes too small. I ended up riding it on five consecutive days, much fun was had – especially when a pedal became near impossible to unclip from.

Naseby Forest.

Adele didn’t have to expend much effort in getting me to join her on a rogaine. She was looking well forward to her first athletic event after over a year of baby-related layoff. We realised it was the first event we’ve ever done together – All Pheasant and Correct turned up, ran a little, got slightly lost, walked a lot, and found as many checkpoints as we could in the three allotted hours. Much fun traipsing over the hills just out of Alexandra – even if the singletrack had me wishing for a bike, and the briar roses and matagouri thorns tore us to shreds. Impressive to see so many families and children out running around every which way

The Clutha flowing through Alexandra.

Such an unusual landscape for NZ; all those trails…

Already further west in Central, it was a good opportunity to meet online friends, catch up with old friends and stay with family in Wanaka.

We may have snuck in a Sticky Forest ride too. Superb; not much snow over here either.

The rest of the time in Naseby was spent riding, walking around, discussing house-build plans, short doses of nephew-entertaining/minding and working on depleting the gin stock. All too soon twas time to return north.

But one week later, Mum visited for a week (a trip planned pre-lockdown). Conveniently, many of us were sent to work from home for three days – so that was timed well. Such a visit deserved another long weekend; I was keen to show off Mahia Peninsula, so that way we headed for a few days of walking, gravel roads and even a little caving.

Couldn’t believe I was up here without a bike!

The peninsula’s scenic reserve has a great technical walk through thick native bush. With plenty of stream crossings, we managed to keep our feet dry – just, and generally avoid the mud.

We explored to the end of Kinikini Rd, if only I could find a link through to make a loop…

Another place to add to the list of where one might find horses freely roaming the roads.

Sunday was time to take in another favourite gravel road before checking out the short walk behind Morere Hot Springs – things one doesn’t do while bikepacking. Well worth a visit if you’re going past.

Tunanui Rd is still fantastic.

The grove of nikau palms is startlingly large – I was quite taken aback.

Monday was for retracing part of a scouting ride from last year – I thought Mum would like the cave I’ve not heard anyone else mention, but I think is pretty neat hidden away in a paddock at the top of a sizeable hill.

There’s a steep climb up through some limestone bluffs to begin with.

We enjoyed scampering around Mangaone Cave for a short time.

There ended a fun little weekend away around Mahia with Mum. After what is now an unusual flurry of travel, some normalcy is returning to life as attention turns to sorting HBAT details – as that pandemic allows.

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Sunday Scouting – Rotohiwi and Te Uri

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With two people independently suggesting I alter the start of HBAT through a farm to a long stretch of gravel, I was certainly going to take a look. Andrew and I drove south through a frosty Sunday dawn to the south of Hawke’s Bay, leaving the car at a country school where it definitely had not warmed up.

Lumpy to start with, I was soon hoping for the climbs as whizzing down was decidedly chilly. Gravel appeared and we rode through a small herd grazing the verges – while now green, there’s still not a lot of feed around. Chatting to the farmer watching his stock, in what became a familiar routine, a few minutes in Andrew was recognised – despite having left the area fifty years ago. It was a very chatty day as everyone we met seemed to have some connection to my riding buddy.

Getting a bit higher, looking north.

Finally the climbing started in earnest and I began to warm; another dip must have been steep, making use of what I now know in some parts is called “traction seal”. Strange to have a name for those short patches of tarseal that appear on steep parts of gravel roads in the middle of nowhere. More farmers to chat to (no, I’ve not seen your lost heading dog – worth as much as my bike) including the one who was generously giving us access, and with no concerns of routing HBAT, through his land. Climb, climb and a little more; onto the farm track, pleasingly dry, a steeper gradient and then over the watershed to bomb past the airstrip.

Andrew heading for the airstrip; obviously a windy place, the breeze was light.

Through to Te Uri Rd, the sealed section was short before we reached the charming community hall and more gravel winding flatly and pleasantly for a few kilometres. That didn’t last as we rose towards the watershed again and headed back into Hawke’s Bay. The section through pine forest had been devoid of sun for some time and was sloppy, giving my bike and me a nice splatter effect for the small price of slightly less efficient pedalling.

Out in farmland again, the view opened up and we stole our first glance of the Pacific for the day.

The climbing continued a while longer.

Nearing the thirty kilometre mark, we’d already managed a thousand metres of climbing – and not too unpleasant it was either at a steady pace with plenty of rests. This paid off with twenty kilometres down, steep at first to get to the plains and more gradual as we followed the watercourses towards lunch. Getting closer to places Andrew’s family had more direct association with, ideas for looping further south and back north abounded – hopefully only a few weeks before those are explored.

Mangaorapa valley – we’d drop down and ride right to left, before following the Porangahau River through towards that glimpse of ocean.

Refuelling as ever at the wonderful Flotsam & Jetsam coffee cart (horse float really; I’m told the coffee is top-notch, but I’m taken by the home baking), was another opportunity for yarns in the sun of old times and old families of the area. Families of eighteen and twenty-one children!

Scouting of new routes done, we were to return to the car following some of last year’s route in reverse. It was perhaps a bit mad riding up the very hill that hair-raisingly dumped riders right into town – Andrew’s chain thought so as one of the side plates broke in two. That fixed, we were left to spin for half an hour to the ridge. I was going to leave this reverse bit out for the more sensible coastal and flat option; but no way, perish the though, the ridge riding and views were sublime. What’s another hill amongst all the others?

Dropping off the ridge, the gravel stretches and stretches.

Enough of Route 52 done, I saw my first newborn lambs of the year. I was a little perplexed by Andrew stopping behind me and running off into a field; turning and catching up, we were off for a bikepacking first more me – turning a sheep. I now know that ewes with multiple pregnancies can sometimes struggle to get back on their feet from lying down – and perish overnight. Sheep and multiple lambs saved, until next time it lies down in the sun, it wasn’t far back to the car – past dozens more newborn lambs out in the warm afternoon sun.

A stunner of a day, and that suggested route is definitely going in HBAT – it was fantastic. More remote, plenty of hills and rural views. In a sudden moment of inspiration, a scheme to change the start point struck me – more things to organise and ways to optimise this year’s route… A big thanks to Andrew for the contacts, riding company and chat; much kudos too – if I’m still riding up these sorts of hills when I’m knocking twice my current age, I’ll be well pleased and fortunate to be in such health.