I got wind of a long-planned Southern Special the previous month on Andy’s fantastic Conservation Area Loop. The concept was pretty standard with not much new to me, save for the carrot of getting down to Fiordland and hauling our bikes over Percy Saddle. Plans morphed over the intervening weeks and I realise now there are still places to show Andy that he’s not ridden yet – another time. Rachel already had the time off work and other plans fell through, so last month’s trio was back together. I determined to carry more gear, food and be more comfortable at camp so as to slow down a bit, in the hope of turning it into a more relaxed tour.
Originally I was disappointed the day we were due to depart became a travel day (admittedly I had far less distance to travel), but this turned into a blessing as that Friday was bleak – cold, wet and very grey. There was even flooding in Clyde as we met at Mark’s barn and extensive bike workshop – thanks Mark for the facilities! Debbie was a late addition for the first few days, having recently picked Scott up from the Tour Te Waipounamu finish and itching for an adventure of her own with a few days left off work – Scott happy to continue resting while pootling around in their camper.
Over a large curry, shades of GSB21, we reversed the proposed loop – avoiding the top of the Pisa Range at the tail end of the current storm – instead opting for the Nevis Valley first up, not quite as high and exposed. Saturday morning rolled around and packing was completed at the last minute – I didn’t quite fill my big saddlebag, but it was close. Unusually I packed a tent, along with extra clothes, a stove, much fuel and food for days away from shops; I was sure to be markedly slowed. I was wary of the plan to ride all the way to Mossburn the next day, was a bit more than I was expecting from this trip – but kept quiet as, weirdly, we seemed to be riding to a schedule.
Down to the river trail, we were soon on the Dunstan Gorge Trail. Funny, it was many months before I got to ride this and now here I was for the second time in a month. The bleak, cool morning did at least mean it was deserted. With a light southerly, this spectacularly engineered trail was even easier riding than last time. We didn’t even meet Rambo this time, although I was still getting good mileage retelling the story of his attack on Tom’s bike. The coffee-boat wasn’t even open it was such a dull day.
The more traditional coffee cart at a vineyard short of Bannockburn was open, so we did get a welcome morning tea stop before heading for the Nevis and up Duffers Saddle. Away from the zero-elevation gain riding beside Lake Dunstan, I quickly found myself falling well behind the others. In overloading my bike, I’d failed to consider having had another pint of blood taken less than two days earlier. Perhaps with only one of those factors in play I’d have been ok, but both were a bit much. With reduced hemoglobin, things weren’t quite firing. Oh well, at least my iron levels are down near the target now – that’s got to be good in the long run.
I continued plodding, somehow not getting off and walking. Not walking was better than the only other time I’ve climbed Duffers from this side – but that was a day of being almost-blown off the top of the Pisas and this saddle on GSB19 (which I maintain is the toughest event I’ve done).
Up and away from Lake Dunstan and Bannockburn.
Into the cloud at the summit.
Unsure if Andy’s face or the weather is more grim – one clearly a reflection of the other.
Time to layer up for the big downhill, such fun, to the Nevis Valley and the long gradual climb to its headwaters.
Brighter down there!
There started a few hours of toil into the nagging southerly. Plenty of streams to cross and opportunities to get water. It’s a vast valley and there’s much to look at with little bits of history and farming besides the fascinating landscape. Still feeling flat, I was pleased Andy did a lot of the work into the wind – far more effective when someone my size is the next largest in the group! My pedals, with a new service kit recently installed, ominously started squeaking – pretty rubbish really, even with the stream crossings.
Climbing out of Otago, these are now Southland hills.
Finally we were at the top of the 800 m drop to Garston. Fine views down and across the next valley, even in the gloom. Still the old Garston Ski Hut seemed a perfectly good place to call it a day ten hours and a hundred kilometres in. I don’t think that was only due to fond GSB21 memories, it’s a great spot and a quaint old hut.
Can’t complain about this downhill though; more GSB memories of an incredible late summer evening climb.
Down on the flat, it was fifty kilometres of flat riding to Mossburn. Well into the evening now, Rachel thoughtfully phoned the ever-hospitable-to-bikepackers Railway Hotel in Mossburn, booked rooms and ordered steak dinners for us all. Now just to deal with one of the stupidest sections of cycle trail in the country. Two latched gates at each farm crossing with two cattle stops is just ridiculous – someone really stuffed this up in giving the farmer the run around. I think the short section of highway is probably better than this absurdity, I’ll be happy if I never ride it again.
By now my left pedal was starting to seize, which left me trying to arrange to borrow or buy replacements the following morning in Te Anau. That was easier to do on the highway from Five Rivers to Mossburn – the faster and less hazardous route compared to the cycle trail between Lumsden and Mossburn that has power poles in the middle of it! Huzzah, we made it to the pub as the kitchen was closing to complete a long and unusually trying day. An enormous feed and a hot shower helped markedly. There were other bikepackers there too – funnily, the pair that I’d chatted to on top of the Hawkduns while out for a bike and hike at the start of the week.
Leaving the Railway Hotel, a long time since the railway came here.
Off west to Manapouri, there was a bit of less-ridiculous cycle trail to start before we hopped on the highway and I immediately lagged behind again – not having had to eat any of the mass of food I was hauling, due to great hospitality, didn’t help. At least my pedals were behaving better and I slowly gave up on the idea of detouring to Te Anau, deciding to risk them for the next day – knowing there was a fair bit of hike-a-bike anyway. We were all pleased to arrive at the cafe in Manapouri with plenty of time before our boat ride across the lake.
Now you’ve made it through my rambling, here is Andy’s video of the trip – and you don’t even need to wait for more posts to find out the rest.
Across the valley to the St Bathans Range – somewhere else to explore.
Soon enough I had a view to gaze over as an excuse to pause. Back down Home Hills Run Rd, Rough Ridge in the background.
The foliage thinned at times…
before eventually disappearing from much of the track. The ridge still looking a fair way away.
I seemed to have taken quite a few breaks as the day warmed; thankfully a light breeze picked up.
Halfway to the ridge by now.
A big rockslide took the double track down to a more precarious thread of a trail – guess this is why this route is not used by larger vehicles.
Finally I got to the ridge and could see east to the area 
More excellent views of the Southern Alps, Mt Cook clearly visible.
Ooh, a brief roll down on some fun loose rock before another push.
Getting there, to another false summit that is.
I was surprised to see a tarn on the map, even more so to see it actually there. 
Finally, the summit – rather flat, but good views across the Oteake to St Marys Range.
The highest point may have been a little off the double track.
A lot of my riding around here is looking like this, it might be time to start thinking about a suspension fork option for this bike. Yes, there’s a track there.
My mind still boggles that there are fences up here, let alone two parallel ones. Little use now, but funny to see how much one is gradually been subsumed by the rock.
Back to where I joined the ridge from the valley, but I’d continue south up that hill.
Yup, Falls Dam, St Bathans, St Bathans Range, Dunstan Mountains and Chain Hills becoming familiar.
Back down to the track along Guffies Creek.
Mt Kyeburn on left, soon…
Over the Maniototo to the Rock and Pillar Range. Naseby, one of my current homes, in those pines right.
Across more diggings to yesterday’s big descent to the Otematata and the Southern Alps in the background.
It wasn’t straightforward.
Coastal cloud. Hopefully that would burn off by the time we went over the pass.
From the top of the track.
Andy’s photo.
Down to the Kye Burn, Danseys Pass road across the centre, our track down coming in from the left.
I think we were all pleased we got to the top. Another of Andy’s.
I guess that’s the bottom and I can take another photo.
Looks like Rob joined us for the flattest part of the trip! Trying to find the correct track to follow the river.
There was even a wee gorge to rise above.
This is the way to start another day of excellent riding, and pushing.
Well, that didn’t last long. Note Andy’s package of cold toast sandwiches for lunch (there was no shop); the manager was gobsmacked (a priceless expression) and probably despaired for us, we were subsequently offered and took the last two, substantial, pieces of bacon and egg pie from the chiller.
Looking considerably nicer up there than what we dropped out of fourteen hours before.
On Home Hills Run Rd again, for a change heading into the Hawkduns and the Oteake Conservation Area.
Hmmm, didn’t know that – no corresponding sign if going in opposite direction.
Quickly gaining altitude, and walking, amongst the tussocks. Yesterday’s Dunstan Range in background, St Bathans Range coming in from the right.
Mt Ida and Little Mt Ida – landmarks I’m used to seeing from the other side (Naseby).
Down Hills Creek to the Manuherikia Valley.
Rocks getting chunkier, but altogether the track was in the best condition I’d seen it – most of the ruts filled in and not nearly as loose as usual.
With a light breeze from the south, it was still warming up. I found a nice, settled puddle to wet my headwear in – but not to drink out of.
Every hundred metres of ascent was marked, a good excuse to turn and take in the view – and have another snack. 
Much more fun on the way down!
North along the Hawkduns, with the Benmore Range on the other side of the Waitaki (which we’d ridden around the bottom of two days earlier) and the Alps beyond – Mt Cook visible behind Benmore Peak.
Yay, Walking Spur! Cue eye roll.
Clear Stream, the end of which we crossed on TTW21 as it empties into the Otematata.
At least some of the spur was rideable.
Not much to look at, even less to drink.
Back on the plateau, we turned off last year’s TTW course east. A glorious day, we revelled in the vastness of the top and marvelled at the sudden deep gullies – which were thankfully avoided.
Rachel returns to Wire Yards Hut.
Andy taking in the vastness, so close to towns, but so removed – we saw one moto rider at the base of the climb, and no one else all day.
Outside the station/hut, so much more water up here on this year’s route – a nice pool to dip in here too.
Very similar to Wire Yards Hut, less of a view and less exposure.
A rather flat section as we crested the last hill. Getting difficult to work out where exactly we came from.
Hut Creek, there’s a hut over there, funnily enough, which is called – wait for it – Hut Creek Hut. Brilliant!
Tracks galore! None of which we’d take, save that zig and zag just beyond the tussocks, rising from the upper Otematata River.
About to climb from the river – after soaking our feet right at the end of the day.
History, huh.