I got wind of a long-planned Southern Special the previous month on Andy’s fantastic Conservation Area Loop. The concept was pretty standard with not much new to me, save for the carrot of getting down to Fiordland and hauling our bikes over Percy Saddle. Plans morphed over the intervening weeks and I realise now there are still places to show Andy that he’s not ridden yet – another time. Rachel already had the time off work and other plans fell through, so last month’s trio was back together. I determined to carry more gear, food and be more comfortable at camp so as to slow down a bit, in the hope of turning it into a more relaxed tour.
Originally I was disappointed the day we were due to depart became a travel day (admittedly I had far less distance to travel), but this turned into a blessing as that Friday was bleak – cold, wet and very grey. There was even flooding in Clyde as we met at Mark’s barn and extensive bike workshop – thanks Mark for the facilities! Debbie was a late addition for the first few days, having recently picked Scott up from the Tour Te Waipounamu finish and itching for an adventure of her own with a few days left off work – Scott happy to continue resting while pootling around in their camper.
Over a large curry, shades of GSB21, we reversed the proposed loop – avoiding the top of the Pisa Range at the tail end of the current storm – instead opting for the Nevis Valley first up, not quite as high and exposed. Saturday morning rolled around and packing was completed at the last minute – I didn’t quite fill my big saddlebag, but it was close. Unusually I packed a tent, along with extra clothes, a stove, much fuel and food for days away from shops; I was sure to be markedly slowed. I was wary of the plan to ride all the way to Mossburn the next day, was a bit more than I was expecting from this trip – but kept quiet as, weirdly, we seemed to be riding to a schedule.
Down to the river trail, we were soon on the Dunstan Gorge Trail. Funny, it was many months before I got to ride this and now here I was for the second time in a month. The bleak, cool morning did at least mean it was deserted. With a light southerly, this spectacularly engineered trail was even easier riding than last time. We didn’t even meet Rambo this time, although I was still getting good mileage retelling the story of his attack on Tom’s bike. The coffee-boat wasn’t even open it was such a dull day.
The more traditional coffee cart at a vineyard short of Bannockburn was open, so we did get a welcome morning tea stop before heading for the Nevis and up Duffers Saddle. Away from the zero-elevation gain riding beside Lake Dunstan, I quickly found myself falling well behind the others. In overloading my bike, I’d failed to consider having had another pint of blood taken less than two days earlier. Perhaps with only one of those factors in play I’d have been ok, but both were a bit much. With reduced hemoglobin, things weren’t quite firing. Oh well, at least my iron levels are down near the target now – that’s got to be good in the long run.
I continued plodding, somehow not getting off and walking. Not walking was better than the only other time I’ve climbed Duffers from this side – but that was a day of being almost-blown off the top of the Pisas and this saddle on GSB19 (which I maintain is the toughest event I’ve done).
Up and away from Lake Dunstan and Bannockburn.
Into the cloud at the summit.
Unsure if Andy’s face or the weather is more grim – one clearly a reflection of the other.
Time to layer up for the big downhill, such fun, to the Nevis Valley and the long gradual climb to its headwaters.
Brighter down there!
There started a few hours of toil into the nagging southerly. Plenty of streams to cross and opportunities to get water. It’s a vast valley and there’s much to look at with little bits of history and farming besides the fascinating landscape. Still feeling flat, I was pleased Andy did a lot of the work into the wind – far more effective when someone my size is the next largest in the group! My pedals, with a new service kit recently installed, ominously started squeaking – pretty rubbish really, even with the stream crossings.
Climbing out of Otago, these are now Southland hills.
Finally we were at the top of the 800 m drop to Garston. Fine views down and across the next valley, even in the gloom. Still the old Garston Ski Hut seemed a perfectly good place to call it a day ten hours and a hundred kilometres in. I don’t think that was only due to fond GSB21 memories, it’s a great spot and a quaint old hut.
Can’t complain about this downhill though; more GSB memories of an incredible late summer evening climb.
Down on the flat, it was fifty kilometres of flat riding to Mossburn. Well into the evening now, Rachel thoughtfully phoned the ever-hospitable-to-bikepackers Railway Hotel in Mossburn, booked rooms and ordered steak dinners for us all. Now just to deal with one of the stupidest sections of cycle trail in the country. Two latched gates at each farm crossing with two cattle stops is just ridiculous – someone really stuffed this up in giving the farmer the run around. I think the short section of highway is probably better than this absurdity, I’ll be happy if I never ride it again.
By now my left pedal was starting to seize, which left me trying to arrange to borrow or buy replacements the following morning in Te Anau. That was easier to do on the highway from Five Rivers to Mossburn – the faster and less hazardous route compared to the cycle trail between Lumsden and Mossburn that has power poles in the middle of it! Huzzah, we made it to the pub as the kitchen was closing to complete a long and unusually trying day. An enormous feed and a hot shower helped markedly. There were other bikepackers there too – funnily, the pair that I’d chatted to on top of the Hawkduns while out for a bike and hike at the start of the week.
Leaving the Railway Hotel, a long time since the railway came here.
Off west to Manapouri, there was a bit of less-ridiculous cycle trail to start before we hopped on the highway and I immediately lagged behind again – not having had to eat any of the mass of food I was hauling, due to great hospitality, didn’t help. At least my pedals were behaving better and I slowly gave up on the idea of detouring to Te Anau, deciding to risk them for the next day – knowing there was a fair bit of hike-a-bike anyway. We were all pleased to arrive at the cafe in Manapouri with plenty of time before our boat ride across the lake.
Now you’ve made it through my rambling, here is Andy’s video of the trip – and you don’t even need to wait for more posts to find out the rest.
Do quite like it up here.
Over the Maniototo with the Rock & Pillars in the distance. I’d soon zig and zag along that ridge at left to get onto the Ida Range.
Doesn’t look too far away, or that lumpy.
Hills Creek heading to the left of Raggedy Range to join with Ida Burn near Oturehua.
Maybe sidling around here wasn’t such a fantastic idea, time to veer for the ridge.
It’s not far away, just have to get around there, by heading right. (Summit back left.)
Northeast over the Oteake lumps and gullies to St Marys Range.
Little Mt Ida, and its transmitter, looking, well, little. Ida Burn forming and then tracking away from the Maniototo plain.
Intrigues me when water doesn’t take the obvious, short path – here Ida Burn avoids filling the Taieri and heads right of Rough Ridge to Oturehua and ends up in the Clutha at Alexandra.
Naseby is easy to quickly zoom in on a map as the forest is clearly an anomaly around here.
Boundary Creek forms here, we crossed the lower end of it 
Across the valley to the St Bathans Range – somewhere else to explore.
Soon enough I had a view to gaze over as an excuse to pause. Back down Home Hills Run Rd, Rough Ridge in the background.
The foliage thinned at times…
before eventually disappearing from much of the track. The ridge still looking a fair way away.
I seemed to have taken quite a few breaks as the day warmed; thankfully a light breeze picked up.
Halfway to the ridge by now.
A big rockslide took the double track down to a more precarious thread of a trail – guess this is why this route is not used by larger vehicles.
Finally I got to the ridge and could see east to the area 
More excellent views of the Southern Alps, Mt Cook clearly visible.
Ooh, a brief roll down on some fun loose rock before another push.
Getting there, to another false summit that is.
I was surprised to see a tarn on the map, even more so to see it actually there. 
Finally, the summit – rather flat, but good views across the Oteake to St Marys Range.
The highest point may have been a little off the double track.
A lot of my riding around here is looking like this, it might be time to start thinking about a suspension fork option for this bike. Yes, there’s a track there.
My mind still boggles that there are fences up here, let alone two parallel ones. Little use now, but funny to see how much one is gradually been subsumed by the rock.
Back to where I joined the ridge from the valley, but I’d continue south up that hill.
Yup, Falls Dam, St Bathans, St Bathans Range, Dunstan Mountains and Chain Hills becoming familiar.
Occasional glimpses of surrounding forest – both native and exotic.
Light clouds continued to blow through, keeping the afternoon temperatures quite bearable.
Unsure what it was I was expecting but it wasn’t so many outcrops.
North over the Bendoran Station – there’s good gravel riding in the hills just beyond that; 
Looking back along the trail towards Pulpit Rock.
Starting down the staircase; Jubilee Hut just visible in a clearing in the trees above the true left of creek.
Down a the valley floor for the last section alongside and crossing the creek.
Looking back to the ridge and Devil’s Staircase – not too bad at all.
The large flax bushes would later provide good viewing of various small birds feeding on the flowers at twilight.
With the water tank empty at the hut, popping down the hill to the creek and carefully balancing not-for-purpose containers on the return was not a hardship when it is as tranquil as this.
Those tracks look rideable…
Could probably get four on that sleeping platform.
Recognising the peaks close to current-home.
Down to Waikouaiti, on that small bay. 
Back along the track to The Gap.
Down to Blueskin Bay area.
Ah yes, the naming of The Gap becomes even more obvious down here.
Start of the River Track.
Soon in quite different surroundings, I enjoyed the drop to river (further upstream than the old route).
Marking of the track is still in its infancy, there was only one part where I really had to stop and work out just where the track went.
At the bottom of the valley, the trail was much more benched and easier to follow than coming down off the ridge.
Having passed them, I was on trail that had had a lot more recent attention. Some of the trail building solutions and resourcefulness were equally impressive and ingeneous.
My last little side-trip – up to Possum Hut. Unlikely to ever sleep here.
Interesting walls though.